• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.75-94
• /
• 2019

The Joseon Tongsinsa Festival has been held annually in May in Busan. It reenacts the procession of the Joseon Tongsinsa that the Joseon Government delegated to Japan four times in the 18th century. In the most important situation during the meandering period, three envoys (Jeongsa, Busa, Jongsagwan) who led the Joseon Tongsinsa, wore Jobok, but at the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival, the three envoys are wearing Jobok, which are not historically accurate. The Jobok called Geumgwan Jobok and were comprised of Yanggwan, Eui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Su, Pumdae, Daedae, Paeok, Hall, Mal, and Hwa. These were ranked from first class to ninth class by personal ornamentation such as Yanggwan, Su, Pumdae, Paeok. So, this study is focused on ascertaining the Jobok of the 18th century for the three envoys who were ranked third grade. This study is based on literature, artifacts, and portraits that can depict the 18th century Jobok including all components. It was based on The 7th Korean Human Body Survey Final Report (2015) in order to produce all components of the Jobok of the modern males in their 50s who are playing the role of the three envoys in the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.11 no.4
• /
• pp.541-550
• /
• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.3
• /
• pp.155-170
• /
• 2001

This study is about investigation of the historical value of Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) and examination of the costumes of the Envoys from the Three Kingdoms drawn in the paintings above. Wanghoido(王會圖) is presumed to be painted around early 7th century. This is a colored picture on silk on which twenty-six Envoys from twenty-four Kingdoms are painted. Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) is presumed to be painted in the early 10th century. This is drawn on paper with only black brush line, no color. There are thirty-five Envoys from thirty-one Kingdoms in the painting. Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖) are the important materials which are useful to understand the original Liangjlkgongdo(梁職貢圖). From the records about interchange of the Envoys in the early 6th century, the characters and costumes painted in Wanghoido(王會圖) and Bungekipjodo(蕃客入朝圖), the copy of the original Liangjikgongdo(梁職貢圖), get the reality. The Envoys from Koguryo(高句麗), Paekche(百濟), and Shilla(新羅) painted in the two paintings above are all wearing Jangyu or Yu(장유 or 유; an upper garment), Go(袴:trousers), Kwanmo(冠帽:headdress), Dae(帶뿔:belt), and Hwa(靴:shoes). But they differ in some aspects. For example, the shape of the Kwanmo(冠帽), hair style and patterns on the costumes, etc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.183-199
• /
• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.3
• /
• pp.269-274
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to examine the costumes and trading goods of the Korean envoys in 1811. The findings of the study are as follows: The Korean envoys, as shown in literature, were dressed up three different types of costumes: Pyongbok, Gongbok, Jobok. They put on different kinds of clothes depending on the purpose of the events such as for ceremonial purpose or for traveling purpose. For traveling purpose, the envoys wore Pyongbok like Waryonggwan and Hakchangeui, which were commonly used as Pyeonbok in those times of Chosun era. For ceremonial purpose, they chose to wear Danryeong, Gongbok, Geumgwanjobok in this order following the order of the importance of the ceremony. The design of Jobok and Gongbok of Jeongsa and Busa were different from that of the early Chosun era. This difference in the Jobok and Gongbok demonstrates that Gwanbok has been transformed with the change in the general Po system in the late Chosun era. When the costumes of Korean envoys in 1811 were compared to those in 1711, there were similarities in terms of the design of Jobok and Gongbok, which indicated that little had changed for the period of 100 years. The most popular exchanged Byeolpok of Chosun was articles of clothing such as Daeyuja, Daedanja, Baekjeopo, Sangjeopo, and Baekmyeonju, while that of Japan was mostly objects of craftwork and a small amount of Po. The fact that cloth was one of the main items from the early Chosun era to the early 19C shows the highly developed clothing culture of Chosun era.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.2 s.111
• /
• pp.59-68
• /
• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.301-316
• /
• 2004

In this study, 2,238 incidents from History of the Three States, Prehistory of the Three States, History of Koryo, True Records of Chosun Dynasty had been analyzed in order to examine the bathing styles of Koreans. The results were as follows. In the period of Three States, baths were taken for the purposes of cleanness, remedy, and beauty culture as well as etiquettes. And spa, rainwater, rivers, streams, and bath tubs were used. In the period of Koryo, it included not only reasons for etiquettes as in the period of the Three States but also reasons for medical care and daily life. In spa, temples, and homes, baths were taken by using perfumes and towels. In Chosun Dynasty, daily baths were for hygiene, health, and bodily charms. Before religious ceremonies, they made sure that they took baths, and spa baths were popular for the medical care. The ways to take baths included the order which area was the first to be washed, time, and areas concretely, and seasons, weather, and conditions of body were considered before taking baths. Moreover, the places included natural places such as streams, reservoirs, rivers, as well as artificial places such as temples, places for envoys, and palaces. Especially, in spa areas, bathing buildings were constructed. Considering all these, baths were taken for the purposes of ceremonies and medical care in the period of the Three States, and daily baths took down their roots in the period of Koryo. In the period of Chosun Dynasty, spa baths for cures, prays and rituals, hygiene and bodily charms were considered as a reason. How to take baths and means were decided carefully. Therefore, the results above demonstrated that baths took down their roots in people's daily life in Korea since the period of Koryo.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.49 no.3
• /
• pp.52-77
• /
• 2016

A spirit tablet of king Guan Yu is enshrined in Donggwanwangmyo shrine[East Shrine of King Guan Yu], which houses 51 hanging boards. The hanging boards were written by the kings of Joseon Dynasty and envoys and generals of the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Most studies on hanging boards have been focused on the collections of the palaces but not on those in Donggwanwangmyo shrine. In this regard, this study researches the hanging boards of the kings' writings in the late Joseon period and analyzes their forms and contents. In terms of contents, it examines who made the boards, when they made them, and what brought them to make them, etc. This study analyzes the forms of hanging boards by types, used materials, and periodic transition of forms. The findings are as follows. First, Donggwanwangmyo shrine houses 7 pieces of hanging boards inscribed with kings' handwriting: one piece of King Sukjong, 4 pieces of King Yeongjo, and 2 pieces of Emperor Gojong. They are divided into two types: one is the name of the buildings and the other is the poems that the kings wrote regarding what they felt when they visited the shrine. Especially, the latter were written by the kings who visited the shrine in spring and autumn. The kings intended to promote peace of royal family through a sense of royalty and fidelity of King Guan Yu. Second, the hanging boards of the kings are differentiated from those of the envoys and generals of the Ming and Qing Dynasties in materials and forms. The background of the board is colored by blue, deep red lacquer color, and black lacquer color, which are more expensive than black color or white color. The hanging boards are embossed with the kings' handwritings and then colored with gold. The frame-style four-side hanging board is held at a 45-degree angle and painted with floral patterns and seven-treasure patterns in Dancheong technique. The left and right sides and the top and bottom sides of the board are decorated with Dang-cho pattern(Korean arabesque pattern). This style is called "quadrilateral"and considered the most classy and top-class among the other three ones. In conclusion, this study confirms the status of Donggwanwangmyo shrine with hanging boards inscribed with kings' handwritings as a political space where kings had interest and demanded their soldiers' royalty and fidelity. Research into the boards inscribed with the handwritings of envoys of the Ming Dynasty and generals of the Qing Dynasty, and the comparison of the styles and periodic transition of forms will be reserved for another study.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
• /
• v.44 no.4
• /
• pp.14-21
• /
• 2016

This article explores Changgyeongwon's spatial and cultural characteristics that were created there as the first modern urban park in Kyeongseong in the Japanese colonial era. First, in point of comparison regarding a colonial historical view, the study tried to understand the background of Changgyeongwon's establishment as well as three aspects of Changgyeongwon's characteristics as a modern urban park. The study found that; First, foreign envoys and high ranking members had visited Changgeongwon in the early opening period. This shows that this site was a park for foreign propaganda and modern display. Second, Changgyeongwon was altered as a place of enlightenment in the 1920s. This is related to the tendency of Changgyeongwon's increasing popularity around this period. More facilities and events particularly for women and children were offered at that time. Third, investigating the historical records, Changgyeongwon's cultural characters as a park are discussed. Changgyeongwon was an important place creating a modern park culture in Kyeongseong in the colonial era.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.45-58
• /
• 2021

This study aims to examine the changes in Pyongyang-bu during the late Joseon period and Pyeong-an Gamyeong through gazetteer, pictiroal maps and various literature. The results are as follows. To begin with, unlike other gamyeong, Pyongyang-bu had an exclusive government office facility from the beginning and had a different status because of the route for envoys from Ming. Therefore historical sites related to Gija were important. Second, the importance of Pyongyang city-wall increased even more through the Japanese Hideyoshi invasions in 1592 and the Manchu Invasion in 1636. However, since the post-war restoration was insufficient they focused on defense reducing the size of Pyongyang city wall. Third, as society stabilized, Pyongyangbu's finances were greatly secured. King Sukjong systematically reorganized Pyongyang city wall and facility of Pyongy-an gamyeong. The nothern wall in located high place, Gamyeong and storage in middle height and military force and guesthouse in the center of Pyongyang-bu. I-a and warehouse facilities in the far south were placed around the Daedonggwan. The urban structure that runs from Daedonggwan to Daedongmun was the same as other city. Another pertinent point is Pyeong-an gamyeong had more military facilities and rear garden and pavilion than before. In clunclusion, Pyeong-an gamyeong did not pass through three gates, but only through two gates. And it was characterized by more various space and having more pavilions than other gamyeong.