• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.59-73
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• 2001

This paper is to examine the meaning of activities of a number of artists who belong to Constructivism in the fashion design area during early twentieth century. After Russian Revolution, the artists like Nadeshda Lamanowa, Ljubow Popowa and Warwara Stepanova decided to devote to practical art area for many People. It's very meaningful for them to jump into real work places like a textile mill and a clothing workshop instead of staying in fine art area. Constructivism is more related to social interest rather than individual thing. The artists tried to apply their modeling principles in fine art to dress making. We can see the geometrical lines and shapes and big differences In colors and material in their dress. The artists had also shown personal tastes to dress works. This idea of togetherness with their time and even to create the style of it. was very renovative at that time and gave an influence on the later styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.225-235
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.57-63
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• 2019

Due principally to the desire to seek lower production costs, the bulk of the world's textile and clothing manufacture migrated to low-cost zones, mainly outside Europe, over the course of the late-twentieth century. In the early-twenty-first century, fast fashion became a dominant force worldwide, with 'Western' retail buyers hunting cheaper deals from clothing manufacturers (mainly in Asia), and with occasional disasters not changing matters beyond the duration of a fashion season. Progressively, seams became narrower, cheaper raw materials were used and durability was no longer an aim. Why bother to do otherwise? This was what the 'Western' consumer wanted: fashion to be worn only a few times and then discarded, despite the fact that vast amounts of human, technological and financial resources were wasted in such a quest. By the end of the second decade of the twenty-first century, the production of textile and clothing products continued to contribute substantially to global warming. This paper reviews briefly the current conditions of manufacture, and argues that the research agenda should be focused on addressing the implications of a progressively changed focus, not on fast-fashion products, but instead on the production of products with greater durability. Meanwhile 'Western' consumers need to turn away from fast fashion and realise that waste is bad for their economy and their society. It is argued further, that after a period of re-adjustment, substantial financial rewards await the national textile and clothing industries that undergo such a turn around.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.63-75
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• 2004

The traditional Ukrain costume has been gradually developed and influenced by the climate and political, economical environments. The national costumes has represented the beliefs and understanding of people about the beauty and harmony of the world. Eastern Europe and Northern Asia are considered as the origins of the Korean traditional costume, and the artifacts ranged from over the Black Sea to ‘Skitai’ and Northern Asia to ‘Noinoola’ support this hypothesis. This study is investigate the formative characteristics of Ukrain national costume especially of the nineteenth century and the early twentieth century. In Ukrain, Men wear ‘Rubaha’ (shirts style's upper garment-in Ukrain Sarochka) and trousers, women wear ‘Rubaha’ with vest and a skirt and a head gear were worn. Ukrain is consisted with three group - 1) Dnipro region-included the Kiev region in the center of Ukrain, 2) Polissia region in the northwest of Ukra in and 3) Hutsul-Zakarpattia region in the west of Ukrain. These three groups have there own different formative characteristics of Ukrain traditional costume.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2012

From the beginning of the twentieth century, 'Modernism' impacted and transformed art and clothing. Pablo Picasso and Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel were two of the most central characters in Modernism working simultaneously in their disciplines. Picasso's innovations, particularly in abstract art and Chanel's fashion designs, that dramatically departed from the previous corseted and highly decorative styles, were so significant that they have left an influence on contemporary art and fashion. This study will compare their visual works and documented evidence of their motivations, within the context of their cultural backgrounds, to reveal meaning in the occurrences of overlaps. This approach has examined the historical, cultural background of the artist and designer's environment from different perspectives, adding to previous research in this area. Through this research, outcomes of the analysis have shown similarities and divergences in the wider genres of art and fashion and the practice of the artist and fashion designer. The reference list to this text, used in the survey, gives a comprehensive overview of pertinent publications disseminating Picasso and Chanel's visual works, oral perspectives and cultural impact.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.505-516
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• 2008

Image which appears in fashion illustration on the late twentieth century is not the representative image as an equivalence to the real fashion styles but the virtual image which bears no relation to any reality. The purpose of this study is review the concept of virtuality and analyze in which way virtual image is expressed in fashion illustrations on the background of Jean Baudrillard's simulacre theory. In post-modem paintings the expression methods of image-virtualization were image mixing through photo-image appropriation, image overlapping, and the icons inserted unreasonably, the focus-out effect through scrubbing and the over-painting on the photograph. Image-virtualization in fashion illustration was expressed through image mixing and expression of image uncertainty. Image mixing was made by photo-image appropriation, image overlapping, connection of heterogeneous images and using interface image, and uncertain image was expressed through the expression of visual ambiguity and virtual movement.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.44-58
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• 2012

The purpose of this research is to contemplate chronological changes of Korean actress facial image and fashion from 1960s to 1990s and to identify Korean women's ideal beauty reflected through the times. Adjectives describing representative actresses of each studied decade were collected from major newspapers and magazines. Korean women's ideal beauty was divided into 4 sub-types such as youthful, pure, sophisticate, and sexy images. As a result of analyzing actress facial image and fashion, youthful and pure beauties were found consistently over the studied periods. Representative characteristics of sophisticate and sexy beauties have been changed over the studied periods which were influenced by socio-cultural environment factors. The result of this research can provide meaningful sources for historical drama, celebrity marketing strategy planning, and personal image consulting.