Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.10
no.3
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pp.1-13
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2008
The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.
The systematic study of the future began with curiosity and imagination about the future; a unique trait of human mental effort-and this seems to be based on the idea that the future can be different depending on current choices or effort. In this sense, it would be seemly to encourage more interest and academic study on the progress of future fashion. In this study, we examine recent changes of fashion material; e.g. that which science and technology have more impact and importance in futuristic fashion since the 1990�s. The period analysed is from the1990's to the present and related data from recent fashion collections and fashion books has also been included The current prediction of the future is largely based on what was formed between the 19th Century and the 20th Century which has persisted until now and has been influenced by the view that science will play a bigger role in the future. This is especially reflected in fashion which chiefly represents material culture. New materials used for fashion are strong and permanently durable, in addition to being very light, thin, flexible, hygienic, ecological and comfortable to wear-almost like a second skin. These fashionable new materials roughly function in two different ways according to external and internal characteristics. First, they cause external change. Second, they exemplify or allow new functions. Examples of external change are the use of silver color, achromatic color, metallic material, smooth-to-the-touch shiny material and the use of luminous material. Examples of the extended function of clothing through the use of new materials are the use of conducting thread, the use of special material for blocking & opening and the use of material which changes colors as the surroundings change. These days, the use of new material which changes its appearance is a novelty unique to the fashion world but we also expect to witness the debut of diverse new materials with extended inner functions.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.41
no.2
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pp.197-211
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2017
Modernization drastically changed the cosmetic culture of Korea and Japan. A classic case that shows this is the appearance of the term 'Hyangjang (香粧)'. This paper investigated the background to the formation of the term Hyangjang (香粧), and reviewed the aspects of cosmetic culture that changed with the emergence of Hyangjangpum (香粧品), or cosmetics containing perfume. The investigation revealed that the term Hyangjang (香粧) appeared for the first time in Hirano (1899), a literature published in the Meiji period in Japan, and that the new term Hyangjang (香粧) had been formed against the background of advanced Western synthetic perfume and played an important role in contemporary techniques for the manufacture of cosmetics. The term Hyangjang (香粧) and cosmetics containing perfume, or Hyangjangpum (香粧品) were then introduced from Japan to Korea. In Korea, the term 'Hyangjang (香粧)' appeared for the first time in an advertising copy written by Hyeon Hui-un, a pioneer of the Korean modern theater movement during the period of Japanese colonial rule. At that time, cosmetic companies in Korea and Japan were releasing cosmetic products that contained perfume that stimulated a women's desire to purchase them by emphasizing 'fragrance' in their advertising. Existing public tendencies to regard a fragrant smell from a made-up face as vulgar were changing and the public perception of fragrance were also changing. The appearance of Hyangjangpum (香粧品) indicates that the existing cosmetic culture revolving around visual sense changed into a complex cosmetic culture involving olfaction. This change in culture is significant in that it heralded the direction of future development towards cosmetic culture that uses increase combinations of different senses including touch, taste, and hearing.
Nowadays, geometrical form expressed on costume is recognizing as a part of modeling art, at the same time is working to develop it. Also the geometrical form is affording the coinciding lifestyle and sensitivity of customers keeping their pace. As a result, our study is researching on the geometrical form that is used in the pattern, silhouette, and detail of the costume to show the texture in sense of touch and the effect of optical illusion used in variable designs, in order to present the expansion our capability of infinite development included in the study of costume. Specially, geometrical form included in sports wear is very effective since the geometrical form includes short and simple beauty as well as practical design. Thus, this study is wishing to know if satisfying the practical and psychological urge of present human beings may be applied to the golf wear market, which is a type of sport that geometrical form is sent in the fastest way in domestic market. Also we are urged to know what type of design technique is the geometrical form nowadays used and changed to discriminate the artificial commerce and improve the identity of such unique brand. The source of this thesis is wishing to investigate the specialization and the most effective geometrical shape and preference of each type in domestic golf wear goods that applied geometrical goods in $2002{\sim}2006$ and analyze its way of expression.
Recently, skin diagnosis has been suggested as a promising tool for discrimination of Sasang Constitution, reported by examining the skin characteristics such as thickness, stiffness, slip, and skin textures like wrinkles and furrows. However, the works had a limitation in that clinical decision on the skin characteristics was made by relying upon oriental medicine doctors' subjective sense of touch. In order to objectify the skin diagnosis and claim its efficacy on the discrimination of the Sasang Constitutions, it is necessary to demonstrate its discrimination capability by providing numerical values in terms of physical quantities obtained from measurements using today's sensors and equipment technologies, which motivated this work as a priliminary step towards objectification of skin diagnosis. The skin characteristics focused in this work is the slip property of the back-hand skin that has been exploited using the dynamic friction measurement system. First, curved geometric effects of the back-hand skin on the measured lateral/vertical force signals were estimated using the artificially designed silicon coated structures, which led to a suggestion on a quality controlled experimental design based upon a empirical analysis model. Second, the experimental design thus suggested has been applied to the measurement of dynamic friction coefficients for two healthy male subjects of Taeumin (TE) and Soyangin (SY), respectively. The result shows that the dynamic friction coefficient is less for the SY subject than for the TE subject around the area of the skin used for diagnosis by the oriental medicine doctor, implying the TE subject's skin is more slippery than the SE subject's that is consistent with the oriental medicine doctor's diagnosis. Hopefully, this work can provide guidelines for obtaining quality data in friction measurement to be collected for discussion on the efficacy of the skin diagnosis and its objectification through statistical analysis.
The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.
Virtual reality(VR) is the technology that makes a user regard being in virtual space generated by computer as in the real world. Mainly, it has been studied about the three senses which are the sense of vision, touch and hearing in the five human senses. Through that, it is applied to the system making all the senses in the human body real. Even though the design idea of theater is brought to that of simulation theater, there are not many similarities between them and not general design rules yet. For making a better situation, in cooperation with a domestic company making a motion simulator for one or two person by itself, I have considered the minimum conditions and formations of the simulation theater being widely useful in the buildings of general commercial spaces from the environmental viewpoint, and basing on that facts I try to make some sorts of fundamental design types so that they are more available than those in the past. In this research, I have set the three types of simulation theater, the 50 seats of motion simulator for one person, the 20 seats of motion simulator and the 50 seats for two persons, in my researching range. Moreover, regarding the size of the simulation theater, I put the best specifications in order and also put them together, and then with making standards able to be reflected on the design plan, I have researched it for the purpose of the accumulation of skill in the construction of the special theater. Here, the design rule I suggested might be a design standard that it will be thought useful widely.
The purpose of this study is to design fashion-cultural products by reviewing the symbolism in Changseung and Sotdae, which are folk belief sculptures. This study was performed by literature reviews of Changseung and Sotdae in order to look into the characteristics of folk belief and traditional culture, and the designs were developed from the symbolism extracted from Changseung and Sotdae with photoshop CS5 and illustrator CS5. The Symbolism of Changseung and Sotdae were as follows: First, Changseung and Sotdae express the 'symbiotic world view' that human beings need to devote one's life to nature. Second, original materials were saved in order to achieve the 'pursuit of essence'. Third, 'simple esthetic expression' was symbolized through the undivided condition between art, religion and life. And fourth, 'empathic humor' was seen through the basis of emotional sense of affinity. The first concept of design development was 'Pursuit of Essence', which was inspired by the characteristics of 'symbiotic world view' and 'pursuit of essence'. Changseungs were expressed as simple and abstract, and Sotdaes as simplified and modern by symmetrical and rotating copy. The second concept, 'Touch of Humor' was inspired by 'simple esthetic expression' and 'emphatic humor'. The face of Changseungs was exaggerated in a humorous ways and Sotdae was developed as sub-motives. The items for the fashion-cultural design were T-shirts, bags, and scarves. Total of 24 items were developed with 4 differently styled designs for each concept. This study was based on basic culture and attempted to diversify the traditional culture items. It hopes to raise the value of traditional culture, and furthermore help build up national competitiveness.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the means by which designers communicate their philosophies and messages through fashion exhibitions, which are one of the communication methods that use visual images, by focusing on the aesthetics of fashion exhibition design. For this study, previous studies related to design exhibitions were analyzed, in addition to the related theoretical background, by examining the existing literature and conducting an illustrative study on fashion exhibitions. Our illustrative study focused on the aesthetic meanings of exhibitions held by the fashion brand Maison Martin Margiela over the past 10 years. According to our analyses, the fashion philosophy of fashion designer Martin Margiela's was reflected by Maison Martin Margiela in the exhibition design. After studying the features of Maison Martin Margiela's exhibition design, the inner values of deconstructivism and mysticism and appearance techniques of trompe-l'oeil, white spirit and assemblage were observed. This study aims to supply basic data for an active research on consilience and communication conducted in fashion communication field through a fashion exhibition designed to be seen as a work, an objet of the exhibition. In-depth studies on the cultural and aesthetical aspects of fashion exhibitions should be carried out, not only based on the sense of sight but also the senses of touch and hearing. Next, theories should be established on fashion scenography, to consider the use of the space design of fashion shows, presentations and advertising and movies to communicate fashion.
The purpose of this study was to understand changes of the current young generation's lifestyle, aesthetic attitude for an appearance, and way of thinking by making a close investigation into metrosexual, the recent mode, and find out its cultural and social implications. As a method of the study, the literature and the Internet data were reviewed. Articles from newspapers, magazines and the Internet were chosen roughly from the year 2000 to now because metrosexual mode remarkably boomed before and after 2000. Books related to the theory on the mode in a costume culture were referred. Also, articles in daily newspapers which dealt with cultural and social issues were reviewed, fashion magazines for men such as Esquire and GQ showing the new trend in men's lifestyle and fashion were examined, and the Internet providing us the latest news from cultural and social topics to fashion trends were investigated. The backgrounds of the rise of metrosexual mode were a collapse of stereotypes in various fields, spread of lookism in a visual image period, extension of commercialism, and expansion of men's character casual trend. Metrosexual was defined as an urban male with a strong aesthetic sense who spends a great deal of time and money on his appearance and lifestyle. His fashion style was characterized by slim and flowing silhouette, feminine and luxurious materials such as transparent chiffon, silk and cotton with a light and soft touch, and a knitted wear with a flowing line, a wide variety of vivid and pastel colors, floral and geometric patterns, and the decorative details like lace, beads, embroidery, and fur. From spread of this mode, two cultural and social implications were extracted. Firstly, the current young generation's aesthetic standards for the perfect man changed from macho man to considerate man who had a good appearance and this suggested that a conventional sex role broke down. Secondly, men began to explore for their own identity escaping from traditionally standardized masculinity that they had been forced to follow.
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