• 박물관보존과학
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• 제3권
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• pp.29-36
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• 2001

강원도 원성군 호저면에서 출토된 조선시대 모자(충정관)를 보존처리하였다. 모자는 양모 펠트 직물로 구성되어 있었으며, 견섬유의 끈으로 장식되어 있었다. 처리 전의 모자는 심하게 오염되어 있었고 좀벌레에 의해 손상된 상태였다. 유물의 처리과정은 부드러운 붓과 핀셋으로 고형오염물을 제거한 후 유물을 지지할 수 있는 스테인레스 망을 이용하여 퍼클로로에틸렌으로 2차례에 걸쳐 건식세탁하였다. 여분의 용매는 압지법을 사용하여 제거하였다. 세탁 후 유물의 감량률은 7.99%, 세탁 전후 유물의 색차는 2.57을 나타냄으로써 유물에 부착되어 있던 각종 오염물들이 탈락되었으며, 모자의 외관이 깨끗해지고 밝아졌다. 세탁 후 견봉사를 이용하여 장식용 끈들을 제자리에 고정시키고 모자의 모양을 잡아주는 보수 작업을 실행하였다.

• 복식
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• 제53권4호
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• pp.131-148
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• 2003

Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

• 복식
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• 제5권
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• pp.41-63
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• 1981

The mural portraits of the ancient Dukheungri tombs are very important for the study of our traditional costume because the tomb contains a stone. with the in-scription of the date of its erection, 408 A.D. and the name, and official status of the buried. The costumes shown in the mural paintings will be the basis on which historical research can be made concerning costumes before and after 400 A. D. The costume in the mural paintings is classified into five different categories; You (jacket), Po (overcoat), Go (trousers), Sang (skirt), and Gwan (hat). Comparing these categories with those of other mural paintings lead us to the following conclusions. 1. The length of the You (jacket) reaches below the buttocks and the sleeves are narrow. The edges of the sleeves are decorated with stripes. The You (jacket) over-laps on the right, center, and left sides, and there are many Jikryong (V-collar) and Danryong (rounded collar) styles, but it has a similar tendency to others of the Pyongyang area which exhibit many foreign influences. In a departure from tradition. the belts on the men's You (jackets) have only 3 knots in the front, with the back having more knots than the front. The belts of the women's You (jacket) seem to have had a band or button for fastening. We must re-evaluate the assumption that the You (jacket) and Go (trousers) of the northern peoples had the common characters of a belted You (jacket) and Po (over-coat) and that the Gorum originated from the Goryo or Unified Silla dynasty. The outside of the sleeves are longer and more to the side than the inner garment (underwear) so that the sleeves of the inner garment frequently overlapped the outer dress. The above mentioned facts have lead to the discovery of the "Hansam," "Tosi" and "Geodoolgi." 2. The Po (overcoat) was used only by the upperclasses and differs from those found in other mural tombs. The Po (overcoat) of the noble on the tomb mural is centered with an overlapping Jikryong (V-collar) while the other Po (overcoats) of the upperclasses are characterized by an overlap on the left, a Danryong (rounded collar) with two types of sleeves (wide and narrow). Foreign influences and traditional influences coexist in Po (overcoat). Belts have frontal knots without exceptions. The facts that the belts on the You (jackets) are on the front and the belts on the Po (overcoats) are on the back must be reexamined. 3. Go (trousers) is usually narrow, being wider in the rear and narrower below the knees. They were used by hunters on the back of horses with similar Go (trousers) from the Noinwoowha tombs being typical of the northern peoples. 4. Sang (skirts) are pleated as commonly seen in the Goguryo murals. The size of the pleat is varied, each pleat being characteristically wider and having different colors. Same types of pleat are discovered in Central Asia and China. It is uncertain whether the pleat of Goguryo was originated in Central Asia and China or only interrelated with those of the areas. 5. There are three kinds of Gwan (hats); Nagwan, Chuck, and Heukgun. Nag-wan was worn by the dead lords and their close relations. Chuck has three cone shaped horns. Heukgun was worn by military bandmen and horsemen. There are two kinds of hair styles. The up-style was used by the upperclass people closely related to lords, and other people used the Pungimoung hair style. The hair styles of the men and women are characterized by the Pungimoung style. which is a Chinese influence, but still retain their originality. The costume has a similar tendency from those from Yaksuri mural tombs, Anak No. 2 and Anak No. 3. We need to reexamine the costumes from $4{\sim}5$ century murals according to the Dukheungri murals. The costumes of Goguryo share many common factors with those of Western Asia, Central Asia and Ancient China (Han). It seems due to the cultural exchanges among the Northern peoples, the Western and Central Asians, and the Ancient Chinese. It may have resulted from the structural identity or morphological identity of the peoples, or their common social and natural environments and life styles. It will be very valuable to study the costumes of Japan, China, and Korea to find out the common factors. It is only regretful that the study is not based on direct observations but reported information made by 77 persons, because Dukheungri is an off-limits area to us.

• 복식
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• 제34권
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• pp.169-182
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• 1997

Focusing on khotan located in the southern Silk Route which was one of the most important kingdoms in the Tarim Basin this study attempts to examine the changes of costume in Khotan by compar-ing the costumes in the painted panel showing the story of silk princess with the excavated costumes from ancient tombs. Furthermore this study attempts to inves-tigate the impacts of cultural exchange be-tween China and its western neighboring country Eastern and Western Turkestan on costume. Excavated costumes from the Shanpula ancient tomb in the region of Khotan and from ancient Niya in the esat-ern border of Khotan and discoveries from Rawak and Dandan-oilik near by Yotkan the ancient capital of Khotan are exam-ined. Basic Khotan's costume was the two piece style of tops and trousers. Over the basic costume wearing a top wear with half sleeves was popular. Skirt was worn by women. Even though there were many kinds tops were classified into the two types kaftan and tunic. Thouth Khotan maintained a association with China for a long time the style of Khotan costume had imbued to China. Top wear with half sleeves was worn frequently in Khotan. Also in China top wear with half sleeves was worn as over-wear which was called ban-xiu ban-bi bei-zi Costume style of China is covering the body profoundly and wrapping front edge toward the right. The types of chi-nese top wear with half sleeves for exam-ple round-neck·confronting front edge crossing-neck·confronting front edge tu-nic type discord with the traditional chi-nese costume style There were many cas-es that half sleeved top wear was worn as over wear in T'ang dynasty. The phenom-enon was due to the prevalence of 'ho' (foreign) and half sleeved top wear was introduced by the countries to the west of China Khotan. A round neck garment was a general type for the men of cuntries to the westof China. Also Chinese wore round neck garment since South and North Dynasty The type of Chinese round neck garment was not tunic but kaftan. From costume relics and ancient paintings the type of Khotan's round neck garment was tunic which was recorded on the Chinese histori-cal documents as " guan-tou-shan" that is tunic the type of persian costume, Even thgough the painted panel showing the sto-ry of silk princess was made in the it me when Turks was a dominion on Central Asia Khotan's costume style was not changed toward Turk's costume style and remained tunic style.

• 한국인터넷방송통신학회논문지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.211-217
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• 2019

제주의 3대 발명은 1234년 김구 판관의 밭담, 제주 사람들의 방목문화 관습에서 나온 정낭, 1406년 문방귀의 묘의 신문인 올레 등을 들 수 있다. 돌과 돌의 수 눌음에서 나온 외담인 밭담은 친족사회인 괸당을 만들었다. 30m/s 이상 불어오는 태풍에도 약 1.5m 높이인 밭담은 무너지지 않는다. 마찬가지로 제주 사회의 괸당도 어떤 어려움이 닥쳐도 서로 도와 무너지지 않는다. 밭담을 쌓을 때는 밑돌인 괸돌 둘을 나란히 평면으로 붙이고 그 위에 왼쪽 윗돌로 괴고 옆에 오른쪽 윗돌을 상보적으로 붙인다. 밭담이 밑에서 위쪽으로 한 돌, 두 돌 붙여나가는데 가운데 돌은 조금 작거나 큰 비정형 돌들로 쌓으면 하나의 공간에선 평면 밭담이 된다. 괸당은 할아버지, 할머니-아버지, 어머니-나를 중심으로 가깝고, 먼 혈족이 수직관계를 나타낸다. 밭담은 밑에서 위로 쌓아가는 수직관계인 데 반하여, 괸당은 윗대 할아버지 친족에서 아랫대의 손자까지 피를 나누어가는 수평 관계다. 본 논문은 밭담 가운데 돌이 큰 돌(작은 돌)을 놓는가에 대해서 비직교 대칭 하중 Hadamard 행렬로 접근한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.21-27
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• 2012

조선시대 양반가의 장례시 매장방식은 회곽묘제를 사용하였으며, 그 유물들이 현대에 형태를 유지한 채로 출토되는 경우가 종종 있다. 그러나 그 내부에서 발견되는 섬유유물들은 예전에는 염직물이었을 것으로 예상되나 오랫동안 시즙과 수분에 의해 오염되어 고유의 색상 및 물성에 변화를 일으킬 수 있다. 이러한 오염은 출토 후에도 계속적으로 유물의 변퇴색 및 열화에 영향을 미칠 것으로 예상되므로 적합한 세척이 요구된다. 따라서 본 연구는 습식세척 후 출토염직물의 색변화를 최소화할 적합한 세정조건을 조사하기 위하여 적색계 7종, 청색계 1종, 황색계 6종, 녹색계 4종, 자색계 4종의 천연염색 염색포(견과 면)을 만들어서 이를 돈육과 함께 6개월간 냉장보관한 후 꺼내어 물, 음이온계면활성제(SDS), 비이온계면활성제(TritonX-100), 천연계면활성제(Saponin) 등 4종의 세정액를 이용하여 $20^{\circ}C$와 $40^{\circ}C$의 온도에서 습식세척하여 염직품들의 색상변화에 대한 영향을 조사하였다. 그 결과 색상의 변화는 세정온도, 섬유소재, 세정제, 이용한 염료의 종류에 따라 차이를 나타내었다.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제18호
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• pp.513-557
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• 2009

고구려 고분벽화에 나타나는 행렬도는 묘 주인의 등급에 따라 인원수와 각종 대열 및 인원 배치가 규정될 정도로 상당한 수준의 체제를 갖추고 있었다. 이러한 가두행렬에 동반되는 연희들은 대부분 산악 백희의 종목들이었다. 특히 안악 3호분의 악대는 고취와 횡취를 갖추고 있어서, 이 행렬의 국제적 교류양상을 살펴볼 수 있다. 또한 호위병, 의장대, 악대, 연희자를 갖춘 고구려의 행렬은 고려와 조선시대의 어가행렬과 일치하므로 그 영향관계를 살펴볼 수 있다. 고려시대의 대표적 가두행렬은 왕의 어가행렬이다. 연등회에서 왕이 봉은사나 흥왕사를 다녀올 때, 왕이 지나는 차도의 좌우에는 등산과 화수를 설치했으며, 그 가두행렬의 규모가 매우 컸고 다채로운 음악과 공연을 연행했다. 나례는 중국에서 생겨난 의식으로 고려시대의 궁중의례에 수용되었다. 고려의 나례에서도 중국과 마찬가지로 가두행렬과 연희를 행했다. 그리고 정초에 풍물패가 행하는 지신밟기도 나례의 유풍이다. 조선전기의 궁중나례에는 방상시 12지신 이외에 판관 조왕신 소매 등 새로운 배역이 등장한다. 그래서 나례가 시대의 변천에 따라 변모하는 모습을 살펴볼 수 있다. 조선시대의 환궁행사에서 왕이 탄 가마는 전후의 고취악대가 행진음악을 연주하고, 산붕이 인도하는 가운데 대궐을 향해 가두행렬을 진행했는데, 이때 각종 연희도 공연되었다. 이 환궁행사는 고려 의종 때의 환궁행사와 매우 유사하다. 조선시대의 삼일유가와 문희연은 양반층의 축제였다. 급제자는 악사와 연희자들을 대동하고 서울 시가를 3일간이나 돌아다니며 가두행렬을 벌이면서, 자기 가문의 경사를 축하하고 가문의 위세를 과시했다. 조선시대의 동제와 읍치제의에서는 사당의 신상이나 신대를 앞세우고 가두행렬을 진행했다. 중국의 마을제사인 영신새회가 후대에는 나례의 연문축역과 융합되었듯이, 한국의 마을제사도 지신밟기와 결합되어 마을의 수호신을 상징하는 신대를 앞세우고 집집마다 찾아다니는 가두행렬이 형성되었다. 수영야류의 가두행렬은 가면극 공연의 홍보 효과가 있었고, 참가자들의 일체감을 조성하면서 축제적 분위기를 한껏 고조시켰다. 북청군 토성리 관원놀이의 중심은 관원의 행차를 모방한 가두행렬이었다. 토성 관원놀이는 인명의 안과와 마을의 오곡 풍성을 기원하는 민속신앙의 기능, 가두행렬과 여러 연희들을 통해 흥과 신명으로 즐기는 오락적 기능, 주민들의 단결과 화합을 조성하는 사회적 기능을 갖고 있었다. 중국과 마찬가지로 한국의 가두행렬은 자생적 가두행렬과 외래 기원의 가두행렬이 있었다. 고구려 고분벽화의 행렬도의 고취와 횡취, 고려시대에 상원이라는 연등회의 시기와 왕이 참석한 가운데 행해지는 교방가무희 및 백희 공연, 동제의 지신밟기 등을 통해서 국제적 교류양상을 살펴볼 수 있다. 그러나 상원연등회는 중국에서 유입되었지만, 왕이 선대 임금들의 초상화를 모신 봉은사에 다녀올 때의 가두행렬과 그 노변에 설치되는 등산과 화수 및 수많은 등은 고려 연등회의 특징이다. 이상의 모든 행사에서 가두행렬은 축제적 분위기를 조성하는 데 큰 몫을 담당했고, 행렬의 중간이나 행렬이 끝난 후 펼쳐지는 전통연희의 공연에서 참가자들이 일체감을 느낄 수 있도록 했다. 가두행렬의 참가자들은 각 행사를 통해 문화적인 긍지와 자부심을 느낄 수 있었고, 자기들의 역량을 과시하고 자랑하는 기회를 가질 수 있었다.