• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• 복식
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.183-199
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• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.

• 복식
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• 제54권5호
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• 대한지리학회지
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• 제38권1호
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• pp.32-47
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• 2003

조선은 교린정책을 바탕으로 일본과 교류하면서 일본에 대한 다양한 정보를 입수하여 지도를 만들었다. 1403년에 제작된 $\ulcorner$혼일강리역대국도지도$\lrcorner$에는 행기도 계열의 상세한 일본지도가 수록되어 있고. 1471년 간행된 신숙주의 $\ulcorner$해동제국기$\lrcorner$에는 보다 정교한 일본지도가 실려있다. 이러한 성과는 15세기 대외인식의 개방성에서 기인하는 바가 컸다. 16세기 이후 주자성리학이 사회운영의 원리로 정착됨에 따라 화이관에 입각한 일본 인식이 강해졌다. 이 같은 경향은 일본지도에도 반영되어 민간에서 유행되었던 각종의 여지도책에 수록된 일본지도는 수록된 내용이 간결하고 지형의 윤곽도 많이 왜곡되어 있다. 이러한 흐름과 별도로 통신사의 왕래가 활발해지면서 상세한 일본지도들이 유입되어 제작되었고. 실학자들을 중심으로 일본에 대한 인식을 제고시키는 데 기여하였다.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• 공연문화연구
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• 제22호
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• pp.287-325
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• 2011

본고는 조선후기 관서지방 공연문화의 시공간과 향유에 관한 연구이다. 관서(關西) 지방은 중국 대륙과 인접한 접경지대로 군사적 요충지이자 대외무역과 상업의 발달로 재화가 풍부한 문화의 중심지였다. 조선후기에는 중국과 조선을 오가던 수많은 사신과 역관, 상인들이 이 지역을 경유하였고, 1~2년 간격으로 관찰사가 교체되었으며, 지역 인재 선발을 위한 도과(道科)과 빈번하게 시행되면서 환영과 전송 의례, 위로, 향연에 따른 공연활동이 매우 활발하게 전개되었다. 이와 같은 양상은 여러 문헌자료와 읍지(邑誌), 그림 자료로 전하며, 문학, 음악, 무용, 민속학 분야의 연구를 통해서도 확인되고 있다. 그런데 <관서악부>를 비롯하여 평양, 성천의 자연과 풍류를 노래한 가사문학작품, 연행록 등을 문학작품을 세밀하게 읽다보면, 기존의 연구에서 주목해 온 공연의 종목과 악기편성, 음악기구, 음악인 등 뿐 만 아니라 공연활동의 주체와 시공간, 향유방식에 대한 유용한 정보들이 매우 풍부하다는 사실을 알게 된다. 이를 통해 공연이 '어디서', '어떻게' 이루어졌으며, 언제, 얼마나 긴 시간 동안 지속되었고, 공연의 규모는 어느 정도였는지, 관객과 공연주체가 어떻게 소통하였는지를 알아볼 수 있다. 음악과 춤에 관한 단적인 정보 외에 '공연', '사람', '시간', '공간'의 관계성에 관한 연구는 지금까지 미진했던 '전통공연예술 양식' 연구의 기반이 되리라고 판단된다. 이에 본 연구에서는 <관서악부> 108편, 한글 가사 작품 8편, 한문연행록 9종에 표현된 공연관련 정보를 '주요어' 에 주목하여 분석한 결과 조선후기 공연문화의 시공간과 향유 양상은 다음과 같이 정리할 수 있었다. 공연의 시기와 시간, 전체 소요시간에 대해서는 별도의 기준이 마련되어 있지는 않았다. 사신연의 경우, 국가나 개인의 상례(喪禮), 기일(忌日) 등의 '금지사유'가 없는 한, 더위나 추위를 무릅쓰고라도 진행되었다. 그 외에 계절을 선택하여 '놀음'을 벌일 경우, 계절적으로는 '삼사월 좋은 때', '춘풍' 불고 '일기 화창'한 날과 '가을 물결' 아름다운 '추강(秋江)'의 계절이 선호되었다. 공연 시간 대는 '아침밥을 먹고 나서', '포시(오후 4시경)', '석반을 물리치고~', '야심(夜深)', 의 예에서 처럼 매우 가변적인 것으로 조사되었다. 그러나 전체적으로는 밤에 열리는 야연(夜宴)이 압도적으로 많았으며, 공연의 지속시간은 '잠깐 보고'부터 '전날 오전부터 다음날 낮까지' 차이가 컸다. 공연시간대와 전체 소요시간은 사신일행의 일정에 영향을 받았다. 공연 공간은 자연, 누정이나 관아의 건축 공간, 선유놀음의 선상 공간, 영송(迎送)의 행차음악이 연주된 연도(沿道)로 구분해볼 수 있었다. 평양의 연광정, 부벽루, 성천의 백상루, 선천의 의검정, 천연정, 의주의 통군정 등의 건축공간과 강상에 배를 띄운 선유놀음의 크고 작은 선상공간은 관서지방 공연문화의 중심이었다. 공연 공간에는 공연주체와 좌상(座上)객의 필요에 따른 주물상, 다담상, 찬을 갖춘 상, 병풍, 의자, 향로 등이 구비되었으며, 야연에서는 청사초롱, 홍촉대, 횃불이 갖춰졌다. 약산동대 등, 자연 공간에서의 공연도 선호되었다. 공연 향유와 관련하여 공연주체와 관객, 공연내용, 향유자의 소감과 비평 등을 살폈다. 공연주체는 기생과 무동, 악공, 전악, 취타군, 무동, 가아(歌兒) 등 수많은 명칭이 사용되었다. 특히 공연에서 춤과 노래, 연주를 담당했던 기생에 대해서는 기생의 수, 연령, 역량, 이미지 등을 알 수 있는 아주 많은 이칭(異稱)이 조사되었다. 공연에서 향유자는 유객(遊客), 좌상(座上)으로 불렸고, 특정 작품에서는 '풍류 태수', '학탄 신선' 등의 표현도 사용되었다. 향유자들이 즐긴 공연은 정재류의 춤과 관서지방의 민속무, 이에 따른 삼현육각 편성의 음악, 12가사, 한문 낭송조, 잡가, 민요, 광대소리 등의 노래, 거문고, 가야금, 양금, 피리, 해금, 퉁소, 옥저 등의 기악 독주, 혹은 병주. 행차에 따른 연주 등이었다. 세부곡목에 주목해보면 조선후기 관서지방에서는 궁중 예술과의 교섭이 매우 활발하였고, 다른 지역에서 볼 수 없었던 <홍문연>, <항장무>, <선유락> 등의 레퍼토리를 탄생시켰는가 하면 고유의 민속가무도 함께 향유하였음을 알 수 있다. 공연의 규모는 '대연', '크게 벌이다', '수삼 동기', '성천기 7명', '60기생', '기생 2~3명', '삼자비' 등으로 표현되거나 독주, 독창, 독무인 경우 이름으로 표기하였다. 역시 공연 계기와 장소에 따라 공연의 규모가 매우 유동적이었음을 알려준다. 공연자의 연령은 10대 초반부터 늙은 기생까지 다양하게 소개되었는데, 특히 어린 기생들의 가무에 대한 관심도가 높았다. 공연은 대체로 긍정적으로 평가되었지만, 반대로 '잡악(雜樂)', '졸렬', '웃음거리'로 분류되어 외면당한 예도 있다. 그런가 하면 여러 지역에서 유사한 공연종목을 관람한 뒤, 이를 '비교(比較)' 평가한 예가 있는데, 이는 관서지방 공연문화 향유양상을 알려주는 중요한 지표라고 생각된다. 공연은 주로 사신맞이. 사신연, 순행에 따른 연회 등 공적인 성격을 띤 것이 많았고, 그밖에 사적인 향유 차원에서 이루어진 예도 적지 않게 조사되었다. 관서지역의 사신맞이는 대동강의 관선을 이용한 도강(渡江)의례가 특징적이다. 이는 관찰사, 부사, 감사 등의 관리의 이임과 부임뿐만 아니라 정례적으로 중국에 오가던 사신일행의 행차가 끊이지 않았으므로 이와 관련된 공연문화의 지속성이 탄탄하게 확보될 수 있었다. 이와같이 '주요어 추출'을 중심으로 조선후기 관서지방의 공연 시·공간과 향유양상에 관해 살핀 본 연구는 향후 관서지방의 재정과 경제, 생활문화의 측면과 관련지어 '관서지방 특유의 공연문화'를 밝히는 연구로 확장될 수 있을 것이다. 아울러 지금까지의 연구가 미진한 전통공연예술의 시공간과 공연양식에 관한 연구의 외연을 넓히는데 풍부한 근거자료로 활용될 수 있으리라고 생각한다.