• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.541-550
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• 2003

This study is to research the costume of Korean envoys of the Chosun dynasty. The research results follow. The costume of three envoys including senior envoys and vice envoys is by, its different kinds, Gwandae, Jobok, Gongbok, and Pyongbok. According to the different purposes of occasions, these dresses were classified as the dress for ceremonies, the dress for banquets, and the dress for travel. For the ceremonial purpose, Gongbok and Jobok were mostly used. Gongbok was chosen when the envoys entered into the major cities or when they had ceremonies with the lord of the manor. The envoys wore Jobok for important ceremonies such as when receiving or presenting credentials or when entering into Chusima. For travel costume, Pyonbok of nobleman was used. The envoys wore Pyonbok during journey but they changed into Gongbok when they entered into the major cities such as Osaka or Kyoto in order to show their diplomatic etiquettes as representatives of the Chosun dynasty. And for the banquets, they wore Gongbok for official banquet and Pyongbok for private banquet. These findings of the different dress for different occasion indicate that there was a strict dress code according to the occasions and purposes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

It seems that Balhae(渤海) had built up its national power through the international relationship from the early years of an establishment of a dynasty. And the envoys that were sent with the official duties dressed up the official uniform for a diplomatic courtesy. Accordingly, this study will be considered about the official uniform in the early years of the Balhae era. The system of the official uniform of Balhae was classified into two form as the starting from $739\sim742$ A.D. The official uniform of the early years of the Balhae($698\sim739$ A.D.) was based on the costume of the three Kingdoms[三國時代], that is, Yu, Go(待), Jo-u-gwan(鳥羽冠). These results were available owing to the reasons that the Balhaehad succeeded the culture of Go-gu-ryo(高句麗), which was the basis for the development of Parhae's own culture, and the most of the governing group and the ruling class in Balhaewere the drifting people from Go-gu-ryo. After that, which the 3th King Mun(文王), acrepted the Tang's culture positively, assumed the reins of government ascended the throne and the brisk exchange with Tang(唐) by the envoys and Suk-wui(宿衛) were dispatched to Tang, the official uniform of the Balhaewas transformed into the system of Tang. This system was similar to that of Tang in point of using a four colors and the items as Danryeong(團領), Bokdu.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.183-199
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• 2006

This study aims to estimate the nationality of two envoys by examining their dresses and appearances depicted on the wall painting of Afrasiab's Palace in Samarkand with the concentration on the history of the international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia. The international exchange between three states and the countries in Central Asia are examined with the concentration on the literature review. And what are related to the dresses during the period of the three states are examined with the concentration on the literature review and the wall painting of Goguryeo tomb. The followings results were identified. The dresses of envoys were comprised of Jowugwan, the soft hat shaped like a peaked hat, the upper garment reaching a hip line with Jikryeong Gyoim and Tongsu, narrow trousers, black belt with a hook, front-pointed shoes and big sword with a round ring. The items of dressing are very similar to those during the Goguryeo period as observed on the wall paintings and excavated articles from the tombs from the Goguryeo period and literature. The next examination is estimated that Goguryeo had the official relationship with the countries in Central Asia before the invasion of Tang in mid-7 century when the wall painting, in our estimation, was produced, and to this end, Goguryeo sent the envoys to those countries. The envoys on the wall painting were estimated to be from Goguryeo as discussed above.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.5
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• pp.59-70
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• 2004

Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King＇s Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun＇s royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.38 no.1
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• pp.32-47
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• 2003

The Joseon had made maps of Japan with information that gained during the exchanges with Japan on the basis of the polio of maintaining amicable relations. The elaborate map of Japan similar to Haenggido was in Honilgangniyokdaekukdojido(Map of integrated lands and regions of historical countries and capitals, made in 1402, and more accurate map of Japan was found in Haedongjegukgi(Chronicle of the countries of the Eastern Sea, compiled by Sinsukju in 1471. These products were due to openness of foreign exchanges in 15th century. After 16th century, understanding of Japan based on China-centric view was intensified, as the confucianism of Chu-tzu planted its roots deeply in Joseon society as the social doctrine. These tendency were reflected in the map-making, accordingly many kinds of maps of Japan in the atlas were meager in contents and distorted in shorelines. Apart these currents, as comings and goings of official envoy became brisk, elaborated maps of Japan were imported and copied in the Joseon dynasty. Consequently these maps helped the elites of Joseon to raise understanding of Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.38-48
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• 2005

This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2001

When restoring a tomb of Songeun, Park Ik that damaged by typhoon in Kobubri, Chungdomyon, Mill Yang, Kyoung Nam in October 2000, a flower designed stone and fresco was discovered. Soneun Park Ik passed the civil service examination in Kongmin dynasty and was consecutively occupied Sajaedogam(司宰少監; regarded as one of second highest official rank). The fresco realistically depicts custom of ordinary people in end of Koryo, beginning of Chosun dynasty that it is considered as an important research material in study of ostumes. Therefore, this research intend to contribute to study of costumes in general public of Koryo that has insufficient study materials through study and analyze of costumes in the fresco with literature research. The number of figures in the fresco is presumed as 26-27 in all but clearly observed figures is only five women and four men and partly damaged figures are two men and two women. Women are worn relatively long yoo that can cover hip as an upper garment and Sang(裳) as trousers. The upper garments are all adjusted to right and has Jikryoung gik (straight collars) but there are strip attached collars or double collars among the Jikryoung gik. The length of Sang reaches to ankle and a waistband is trailed to below the knees. Most of hair are combed in the two sides and made a ring, moreover worn ceremonial coronet, which imply the ceremonial parade. Distinguished from the frescos of Koguryo, there are no women wearing Po(袍) also Yoo with Dae(帶) and without were coexisted. The mens costume is mainly appeared in two types. One(元) is Danryoungpo, Po with round collar and wearing a lozenge shaped crest with a brim, the other is Jikryoung Po, Po with straight collar, and wearing Ballib(拔笠), the latter is a costume of two man presumed as envoys. In the case of Danryoungpo, its length reached to ankle that shows decorum and in Jikryoungpo its length is below the knees that seem to offer practicality for envoys to guide a long journey. Both man and women are in decent cloth with a crest, which simple costume for ordinary people as a Chaksoopo that has comfortable length for movement and narrow sleeves. Songeun Park Ik actively worked under regency of One dynasty that influence of Mongol is seen in mans crest. There are some changes but including womens costume most of cloth are followed Korean traditional costume style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.204-221
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• 2021

The morning ritual was a rite whereby a morning audience with the emperor was held for feudal lords sovereigns and subjects living in the precincts, monarchs or foreign envoys of the outskirts of the capital, and other ethnic group. Distinction between the main and subordinate rituals, changes in the ceremony according to the times, and the position or rank of those participating in the rite, were factors that directly affected the costumes worn for ritual. Accordingly, in this paper, the costumes worn by members of the Ming dynasty (emperor, prince imperial, prince) were examined in terms of the period and detailed ceremonies with a focus on the morning ritual and costume systems presented in the official historical records. Through this study, only Mian-fu (冕服) and Pi-bian-fu (皮弁服) were defined by the costume system ase costumes worn in the morning ritual. However, through comparative analysis with the morning ritual system, it was confirmed that Tongtian-guan-fu (通天冠服), Yishan-guan-fu (翼善冠服), and Bianfu (便服: slightly casual wear) were also worn. It is worth noting that the color of Gunlong-pao (袞龍袍) was differentiated according to status; the Emperor wore yellow, the Prince Imperial and lower levels wore red, which was the traditional perception of academia. However, following confirmation of the custom costume for the morning ritual, it was confirmed that the color of this differentiation appeared during the 3rd year of Emperor Yongle of Ming (1305). Previously five traditional colors (blue, red, yellow, white, and black) were used for the season.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.22
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• pp.287-325
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• 2011

This paper studies the time-space and appreciation of the performance culture of Gwanseo region, which is considered to have formed a characteristic culture in late Joseon period. For this purpose, 4 gasa written in hangeul (Korean alphabet), as well as 4 yeonhaeng gasa, 108 articles of Gwanseoakbu were examined. Plus, among the 9 types of yeonhaengrok (Documents of Performance culture) written in Chinese character, those parts which describe the performance traits have been analyzed. Then, 'main list of terminology' has been deduced based on the categorization according to the following points : 1) subjects of performance and appreciation 2) time and period of performance 3) space of performance 4) contents of performance 5) background and motive for performance and 6) method of performance. Through this process, various 'nouns' and 'predicate verbs' in relation to performance culture emerged, which were systemized according to types of performance elements and categories. Major terminology includes predicate verbs and symbolic verbs such as nokuihongsang,' 'baekdaehongjang,' 'jeolsaekgeumga,' 'cheonga,' 'hwaryu,' 'gamuja,' and 'tongsoja,' as well as the terms already known such as gisaeng, iwon, yangbang, akgong, and jeonak, which refer to musicians and dancers. Subjects of performance were divided into performers and listeners, categorized into concert, music, and dance, according to performance form. In the case for music, it was divided into instrumental or vocal, solo or accompanied (byeongju, self-accompaniment). In the case for vocal music, noteworthy was the inclusion of profesional artist's singing (called gwangdae or uchang). The record of 23 names of popular artists from Gwanseo region, with mention of special talents for each person, reflects the degree of activeness and artistic level of the province. Depending on the appreciating patrons, the audience were indicated as the terms including 'yugaek (party guest),' jwasang,' 'on jwaseok,' and 'sonnim (guests).' It seems that appraisal for a certain performance was very much affected by the tastes, views, and disposition of the appreciating patrons. Therefore it is interesting to observe different comparative reviews of concerts of different regions given by literary figures, offering various criticism on identical performance. In terms of performance space, it has been divided into natural or architectural space, doing justice to special performance sites such as a famous pavilion or an on-the-boat performance. Specific terms related to the scale and brightness of stage, as well as stage props and cast, based on descriptions of performance space were found. The performance space, including famous pavilions; Yeongwangjeong, Bubyeokru, Baeksangru, Wolparu, and Uigeomjeong, which are all well-known tourist sites of Gwanseo province, have been often visited by viceroys. governors, and envoys during a tour or trip. This, and the fact that full-scale performances were regularly held here, and that more than 15 different kinds of boats which were used for boat concert are mentioned, all confirm the general popularity of boat concerts at the time. Performance time, categorized by season or time of day (am/pm/night) and analyzed in terms of time of occurrence and duration, there were no special limitation as to when to have a performance. Most morning concerts were held as part of official duties for the envoys, after their meeting session, whereas evening concerts were more lengthy in duration, with a greater number of people in the audience. In the case of boat concert, samples include day-time concert and performances that began during the day and which lasted till later in the evening. Major terminology related to performance time and season includes descriptions of time of day (morning, evening, night) and mention of sunset, twilight, moonlight, stars, candles, and lamps. Such terms which reflect the flow of time contributed in making a concert more lively. Terminology for the contents of performance was mostly words like 'instrumental,' 'pungak,' or 'pungnyu.' Besides, contextual expressions gave hints as to whether there were dance, singing, ensemble, solo, and duets. Words for dance and singing used in Gwanseo province were almost identical to those used for gasa and jeongjae in the capital, Hanyang. However, many sentences reveal that performances of 'hangjangmu' of hongmunyeon, sword dance, and baettaragi were on a top-quality level. Moreover, chants in hanmun Chinese character and folk songs, which are characteristic for this region, show unique features of local musical performance. It is judged that understanding the purpose and background of a performance is important in grasping the foundation and continuity of local culture. Concerts were usually either related to official protocol for 'greeting,' 'sending-off,' 'reports,' and 'patrols' or for private enjoyment. The rituals for Gwanseo province characteristically features river crossing ceremony on the Daedong river, which has been closely documented by many. What is more, the Gwanseo region featured continued coming and goings of Pyeongan envoys and local officers, as well as ambassadors to and fro China, which required an organized and full-scale performance of music and dance. The method of performance varied from a large-scale, official ones, for which female entertainers and a great banquet in addition to musicians were required, to private gatherings that are more intimate. A performance may take the form of 'taking turns' or 'a competition,' reflecting the dynamic nature of the musical culture at the time. This study, which is deduction of terminology in relation to the time-space and appreciation culture of musical performances of Gwanseo region in late Joseon period, should be expanded in the future into research on 'the performance culture unique to Gwanseo region,' in relation to the financial and administrative aspects of the province, as well as everyday lifestyle. Furthermore, it could proceed to a more intensive research by a comparative study with related literary documents and pictorial data, which could serve as the foundation for understanding the use of space and stage, as well as the performance format characteristic to Korean traditional performing arts.