• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.41-46
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• 1984

Ancient Korean and China litteratures show us that it has been long since people from humbler classes to king most commonly used bast fabrics as materials of their cloth. According to the record of these ancient litteratures, highly developed fine bast fabrics and those woven in figures were used as tribute between ancient Korea and China. In this study we will make a brief research of the history of bast fabric culture from ancient times to the Korea Dynasty in which the bast fabric culture flourished and reached the summit of prosperity. After having compared the bast fabric culture of ancient Korea with that of ancient China in which the bast fabric culture developed very much and bast fabrics were used more commonly as materials of cloth than any other fabrics, we could come to conclusions as follows. 1. Names were given to bast fabrics according to the kinds of bast fibers, the degree of fineness and the containing of figures: Ma-po, Jeo, Jeo-po, Bag-jeo-po, Moon-jeo-po, Po and Se-po. The number of 'Seung' which indicated the degree of fineness was attached to the top of each name to show how fine they are. 2. While the bast fabric of 30 Seung is known to be the most fine one of the ancient China, in ancient Korea fine bast fabric of higher than 30 Seung was woven. This fact proves that the technique of weaving bast fabrics of the ancient Korea was more highly developed than that of ancient China. 3. In ancient China the highest Seung number of the ordinary clothes which were put on after putting off livery of grief was regulated to be 15. But in ancient Korea, Sil-la, it was regulated to be 28. Judging from this fact, we may say that the consumption level of the ancient Korean people in cloth was higher than that of the ancient China people. 4. The reason why in ancient Korea the technique of weaving bast fabrics was so highly developed is suppoed to be that the ancient Korean people preferred elegant, refine and simple taste in cloth. 5. The excellent bast fabric culture of the ancient Korea flowed into ancient Japan. It proves that Korea played an important part in the history of textile development of the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.6
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.31-47
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• 1979

1. The old Korean costume had two different kind of dress, one was a military uniform (Goon bok) for military only and the other was uniform (Yoongbok) for civilian and militarian. 2. The military uniform (Goonbok) were dressed under armour, was for war time. And the civilian and military uniform were dressed under Mo (Hat) and Po (Coat dress), was for War time or emergent case. 3. Armour were made of leather in ancient times but later they were made of metal. 4. In generally, armour is classified; 1) To protect neck 2) To protect shoulders and arms 3) To protect breast 4) To protect both legs 5) To protect hands 5. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only. at the time of three Nations (Ko-kuryo, Bakje. Silla) 1) Armour-a) Identified by found relics or ancient wall picture. b) They had improver! armour. c) Armour of three Nations were resembled each other. 2) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) The Jeogori reached to hip area was called Jangyoo. b) The pants were tight trousers. 6. Armour and military uniform (Goonbok) for military only at Koryo Dynasty. 1) They had improved armour like three nation's age. 2) They were made of iron. leather, paper or cloth 3) The color was white. puple. red. 4) Military uniform(Goonbok) a) Hat-(1) Banggak (2) Josamoja (3) Ibgak (4) Jakwan (5) Sabgak (6) Sumale (7) Jaragwan (8) Kummoja (9) Mubyunkwan (10) Pyungyunchek b) Dress-(l) Jayeisokade (2) Bosanghwa Gayendae (3) Hongbeja Rokrahansam (4) Jag- ongbok Hongeung (5) Jagongbok Jogeung (6) Kumyeisokdae (7) Bilapeja Rokrahansam (8) Jasupoto (9) Kumyei Honggung (10) Kumyei Dokuyeunsokdae (11) Bibosunghwa Dongokumdae (12) Bidaesuyei Kayeundae (13) Jasosulansam (14) Biyeiko (15) Chung-yei Dongsim Sokdae 7. Armour and military uniform of Lee Dynasty 1) Armour-a) the Helmets were attached with visor ar without visor, and later it was added the neck protecter. b) dresses were given various names according to the materials used. for example, Suiejakap or Kyungfunkap. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok) were composed by molip, Hyunchungsakpuja, Jundae, Soowhaja. 8. Military uniform (yoongbok) for civilian and militarian 1) The unifom was developped through Imjin war, Byungja war since the middle of Lee Dynasty. 2) The military uniform (Goonbok), (Yoongbok), armour were by the established dress reg-ulation of imperial ordinance dated April 8th, 1895 which falls 35th year of Kojong. the dress regulation was based upon the western uniform.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.36
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• pp.219-238
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• 1998

For the purpose of this Study, the situation of Korean costume properties in the collection of overseas museums was investigated through correspondence, interviews with their curators and persons in charge and survey. As results were made about the situation of museum science (conservation) and practical utilization of costume properties. So, the study result were drawn as follows : Krean costume properties unexplaind of 'Korean cultural Properties' could be found in the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York(135 pieces), the Brooklyn Museum of New York(20 pieces), the Newark Museum of New Jersey(15 pieces), and the Victoria Albert Museum of London(100 pieces). Korean costume properties in the collection of over-seas museums mostly fall under the rang of period between the 19th century and the early 20th century and are classified into everyday clothing, wedding costume and armors for the most part. In 1900s, museum in several countries began to collected Korean cultural properties through foreign missionaries or diplomats as well as merchants or travellers in who bought Korean objects. Recently, scholars, traditional Korean costume designerss and diplomatic and consular offices in overseas have donated our Korean costume to many foreign museums. Korean costume properties were largely on display in the dependent display of folklore museums or in a part of exhibition gallery for Asian culture and there were the separate exhibition rooms in museums in the United Kingdom, Germany, Denmark, Austria, Japan and the United States America. But the size and level of display room for Korean cultural properties is one third as large as that for chinese or Japanese cultual properties. It was found in this study that the traditional Korean costume in the collection of overseas museums was largely recorded only as general items rather than given their proper names. The typical example of misnaming included bridal's Kimono for Wonsam(원삼) in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Yeonroksaek-bumunsajeokori for Dangeui(당의) and Jissan-gryongwonmunsadurumagi for Kongdali(동달이) in the Okura collection of the Tokyo National Museum, and so on. And the Victoria Albert Museum modified the way of wearing Daenim(대님) and the National Museum of Ethnology in Osaka seemed to misplace the ornament of Keanggi(댕기) on Mubok(무복) and Josunjuk(조선족: Chinese-Korean) Museum also misplace hansam(한삼). On the one hand, the Newark museum of New Jersey mixed Chinese armor with the Korean one and the Photohraph of King Kojong(고종) with Chinese one. It is corrected to publish and disseminate the book concering Korean costume in order to inform foreign museums of thed proper names and wearing method of our traditional costumed. The repair of costume before cleaning in the process of conservation treatment can prevent damage likely to occur as the properties of fiber itself are weakened in liquid. It is recommended that western 8-figure stitch and tacking stitch is added to Korean traditional stitching method. Museums in the U.S.A and the U.K are concerned about the aftermath of cleaning it-self, specially conservation treatment may exert on remains and predominantly use the vacuuming method to remove dust or bits of straw before the exhibition beings. But in case of Korea, the dry cleaning and wet cleaning method are used according to the nature and state of a sample costume. This comprehensive cleaning method is gradually developing scientifically but it is expected that those concerned will make a chemical analysis of the solvent to be used and also the more precise test of costume properties will be conducted before cleaning them. A partial study was made here because the scope of study was too broad and vast. It is expected that more studies will be conducted concerning our costume culture under the long-term plan and active support at the government level.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.394-404
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• 2007

The purpose of the study was to analyze the difference in knitwear purchasing behaviors of female college students in the U.S., Korea, and China. It was developed questionnaire that included knitwear purchasing behavior that is fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of knitwear products, store attributes of knitwear, knitwear buying places, and purchasing experience of foreign-made knitwear. The final sample used in this study consisted of 119 female college students in U.S., 150 female college students in Korea, and 217 female college students in China. Aged from 18 to 33. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. The preference of knitwear among the respondents was shown highly. This result is due to a world-wide trend of casual clothing, and is to prove, that knitwear is that made with flexibility, drape, and stretch, is the item that is able to satisfy consumer's desires. Knitwear preference of knitwear the U.S. respondents was shown highly, and buying intention of them was also high, not only for sweaters and t-shirts but for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and dresses as well. Knitwear information the U.S. respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop display and magazine advertisements. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the U.S. respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they didn't consider the country of origin important. By store attributes of knitwear, the U.S. respondents specially considered the display, variety, price level, and sale frequency of merchandise. The respondents of China was shown higher than them of Korea in the intention of all items. Knitwear information the China respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop advertisements of Newspaper and magazine and fashion articles in Newspaper and magazine. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the China respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they considered fiber content and the country of origin higher than the respondents of U.S. By Store attributes of knitwear, the China respondents specially considered product knowledge and friendliness of sales personnel, Layaway payment plan, Brand names, New Fashion, and Dressing Facilities higher than the respondents of U.S. or Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• Design Convergence Study
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-57
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• 2018

Sales for SPA brand names of private label apparels are on the rise in the domestic clothing market. The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristics of SPA brands and how each color system is proposed within the BI system. In this study, 8 brands were selected as the most popular SPA brands in Korea and abroad with stores based on brand power and sales and preference by consumers. Therefore, among information factors such as brand identity (BI) and color characteristic. sign system, package, and environmental factors, buildings facade and interior design of eight brands were investigated. Research into color application of BI revealed that four brands used red colors with different tones with different identity differentiation. For the other four brands, the company applied BI designs that gained the brand's character such as a black-and-white or dark blue one. Thus, it is considered important to select BI color in order to differentiate and enhance preferences in brand identity.

• Journal of Global Scholars of Marketing Science
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.61-81
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• 2007

Recently, use of foreign models and foreign language in advertising is a general trend in Korea even though the effect has not been well-known..Most of the previous research shows rather an opposite effect claiming marketing communication is more effective when higher congruity between marketing communication and consumer's cultural values are achieved. However, the introduction of global culture due to the expansion of new media such as Internet or cable television makes the congruity not the best choice of marketing strategy. In addition, use of highly attractive models in advertising to increase the effect of advertising is general. However, recent studies show that targeted women audience tend to compare themselves to the highly attractive models and do experience negative sentiment. Bower (2001) proved the difference between 'comparer' and 'noncomparer' when women face highly attractive models. The results show that a comparer who has an intention to compare highly attractive model (HAM) with herself has a significantly negative effect on model expertise, product argument, product evaluation and buying intention. Therefore, HAM is not always a good choice and model attractiveness plays a role in the processing other cues or changing the advertising effect from result of processing other cues. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of the use of foreign language on the advertising response of the audience with regard of the model attractiveness. For the empirical study, the virtual advertising using foreign models (HAM, NAM), brand names and slogans(Korean, English) were used as stimuli. The respondents of each stimulus were 75('HAM-Korean'), 75('NAM-Korean'), 66('HAM-English') and 66 ('NAM-English') respectively. To establish the effect of marketing communication, the attitude for media(AM), the attitude for product(AP), targetedness(TD), overall quality(OQ), and purchase intention(PI) with 7 point likert scale were measured. The manipulation was verified to check the difference between HAM attractiveness assessment (m=3.27) and NAM attractiveness assessment (m=5.12). The mean difference was statiscally significant (p<.05). As a result, all consequences were significantly changed with model attractiveness, and overall quality evaluation(OQ) were significantly changed with language. The interaction effect from model attractiveness and language was significant on attitude toward the product(AP) and purchase intention(PI). To analyze the difference, the mean values and standard deviation of consequences were compared. The result was more positive when model attractiveness was high for all consequences. For language effect, the assessment was more positive when English was used for OQ. Considering model attractiveness and language simultaneously, HAM-Korean was more positive for AP and PI, and NAM-English was more positive for AP and PI. In other words, the interaction effect was confirmed by model attractiveness and language. As mentioned above, use of foreign models and foreign language in advertising was explained by cultural match up hypothesis (Leclerc et al. 1994) which claimed that culture of origin effect. In other words, in advertising, use of same cultural language with the foreign model could make positive assessment for OQ. But this effect was moderated by model attractiveness. When the model attractiveness was low, the use of English makes PI high because of the effect of foreign language which supported the cultural match up hypothesis. When the model attractiveness was low, the use of Korean made AP and PI high because the effect of foreign language was diluted. It was a general notion that the visual cues got processed before (Holbrook and Moore, 1981; Sholl et al, 1995) compared to linguistic cues. Therefore, when consumers were faced HAM, so much perception was already consumed at processing visual cues making their native language of Korean to strongly and positively connected with the advertising concept. On the contrary, when consumers were faced with NAM, less perception was consumed compared to HAM, making English to accompany cultural halo effect which affected more positively. Therefore, when foreign models were employed in advertising, the language must be carefully selected according to the level of model attractiveness.