• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.118-141
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• 2024

This study investigates and analyzes ancient literature records and iconographic materials to examine the Willow Tree Fence(樹柵) built on Gasan(假山) Cheonggyecheon(淸溪川) within the Hanyangdoseong, which was deliberately created to prevent flood damage during the Joseon Dynasty. Although there have been research cases related to the willow tree, it is difficult to find research conducted with the purpose of identifying its archetypal value by investigating and analyzing specific use cases of the willow tree and its historical background. Accordingly, this study aims to identify examples of the Willow Tree Fence(樹柵) created in Cheonggyecheon(淸溪川) during the Joseon Dynasty and reinterpret their value by illuminating the background of construction and regional characteristics. The main contents of this study are as follows. It is presumed that floods during the Joseon Dynasty were a great hazard. Between the 16th and 18th centuries, Joseon suffered severe damage from floods. By the time of King Yeongjo, all Four Mountains(四山) of the capital had become bare mountains, which was the cause of frequent floods. In the year of Gyeongjin(庚辰, the 26th year of King Yeongjo's reign, 1760), King Yeongjo dredged the channel bottom of Cheonggyecheon(淸溪川), which overflowed every rainy season, with the Juncheon Project(Channel-Dredging, 濬川事業) and planted willow trees on the mountain on both sides of the Ogan Water Gate(五間水門), as measures to prevent flood damage and soil loss. was implemented. In the <Doseongdo(都城圖)> in 《 Gwangyeodo(廣輿圖)》 produced in the mid-18th century during the reign of King Yeongjo, Gasan(假山), built in front of the Ogan Water Gate(五間水門) is visible, and in the record 『Sinjeung Donggukyeoji Seungnam(新增東國輿地勝)』 In the record, it appears that willows were planted on both sides of the mountain in the year of Gyeongjin(1760). With <Hanyangdoseong Map(漢陽都城圖)> produced in the 46th year of King Yeongjo's reign(1770), it is confirmed that willow trees formed a thick forest on Gasan Mountain near the Ogan Water Gate(五間水門) in the late 18th century. In addition, the Juncheon Project(Channel-Dredging, 濬川事業) and the creation of the Willow Tree Fence(樹柵) continued from the 15th century, the early Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮前期), to the end of the 19th century, the late Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮後期), through the records of ancient literature such as 『Annals of the Joseon Dynasty(朝鮮王朝實錄)』, 『Seungjeongwon Diary(承政院日記)』, and 『Records of Daily Reflections(日省錄)』. This study is meaningful in informing that the willow tree was a unique cultural heritage and traditional landscape resource by investigating the composition and use of the Willow Tree Fence in the Joseon Dynasty, which was a great basis for preventing floods and flood damage, as well as forming a beautiful landscape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.60-74
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• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.176-191
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• 2014

This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.60-70
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• 2017

This study traces the development of physic gardens in Korea and explores their significance in the history of landscape architecture. For this purpose, records related to physic gardens from medical sources from the period of the Three States to the Joseon dynasty, when herbal medicine was systematized as a field, were searched. Physic gardens had been developed by the time of the late Goryeo and early Joseon dynasties, in the 13th and the 15th centuries. Yakpo(kitchen gardens for medicinal herbs) were cultivated by a group of new high-level officials in the late Goryeo dynasty, when an increasing interest in hyangyak(native herbs) emerged under the influence of the Neo-Confucian perspective on nature, which emphasized locality. The sources analyzed in this study confirm that physic gardens called jong-yakjeon(royal medicinal herb gardens) were in operation in the early Joseon dynasty when policies to investigate, discover, cultivate, and research native herbs were put into place. It is likely that the jong-yakjeon were established at the beginning of the Joseon dynasty as subsidiary facilities under its central medical institutions, the Naeuiwon and Hyeminseo, and then declined in the late Joseon dynasty. Jong-yakjeon can be confirmed to have existed in the mid-15th century. Physic gardens were located in several places outside the Fortress Wall of Hanyang, such as Yakhyeon, Yuldo, Yeoudo, and Saari. The total area encompassed by physic gardens was about 160,000 square meters in the early 18th century. In jong-yakjeon, dozens of medicinal herbs were cultivated, including Schizonepeta tenuifolia var. japonica, Rehmannia glutinosa, and Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fischer, and these gardens were operated by physicians dispatched from the Naeuiwon and dozens of provincial slaves. In conclusion, the jong-yakjeon were similar to the physic gardens of Renaissance medical universities in that they reflected the interest in and development of theories about new herbs, and were similar to the physic gardens of medieval castles and monasteries in terms of species types, location, and function. This paper has limitations in that it does not present the specific spatial forms of the yakpo or the jong-yakjeon. Nevertheless, this paper is significant for the field of garden history because it shows that physic gardens in Korea appeared in the late Goryeo and early Joseon dynasties concomitantly with the development of medicine towards native herbs and functioned as utilitarian gardens to cultivate community remedies.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.31-38
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• 2023

Most of the changes found on the toi-maru of the Sang-chun-heon Historic House indicate that the upper structure of the toi-maru of the late Joseon Dynasty houses where toi-bo was installed was not completed in an instant. Toi-maru with stud is especially typical in 3-Dori type Structure, and can be found in many historic houses in Yang-dong Village, where the many 3-Dori type Structure is located. This type can be interpreted as the intermediate type that began at the eaves was settled as a toi-maru with a separate toi-bo. It seems that the toi-maru in front of the on-dol room at the time of the construction of the Sang-chun-heon historic house would not have been the same as it is now. The members dividing the on-dol room, the walls, and the various incomplete appearances seen in the window composition can be construed as traces of the change. The fact that all three types of houses that occurred during the spread of toi-maru after the mid-Joseon Dynasty can be examined can be added to the existing evaluation of cultural property houses in Yang-dong Village.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.855-866
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• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.7-18
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• 2012

On behalf of the royal women, SangGung(尙宮:The head of female servants in the palace) and NaIns(內人: Female servants caring for royal families in the palace) were dispatched in order to attend a funeral at the royal tomb. The NaInGaGa(內人假家) is the temporary building for SangGung and NaIns in the royal tomb. It is comprised of lodgings for them and also workrooms and warehouses to prepare ritual offering for the dead King or Queen. In the early Joseon dynasty, the NaInGaGa was utilized until a funeral at the royal tomb. Since 1674, NaInGaGa for the 3 years-period lamentation was started constructing separately. At these processes, the plan and placement of NaInGaGa was changed. This study based on the SanReungDoGam-EuiGwae (山陵都監-儀軌: The report on constructing royal tomb). The SanReungDoGam-EuiGwae written since 1800 have illustration about NaInGaGa. The illustration and explanation about NaInGaGa become a important clue that make suppose detailed space of NaInGaGa.