• 복식
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• 제60권7호
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• pp.74-87
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• 2010

Jeokgwan(翟冠, crown decorated with pheasant motifs) is a queen's ceremonial headdress during the early Joseon dynasty. It originated from Bong-gwan(鳳冠, crown decorated with phoenix motifs) worn by the Chinese empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) was originally various types of hairpins worn with the topknot hair style, such as Bongchae(鳳釵) Hwasu(花樹) Bakbin(博鬢), but during the Sung dynasty(宋, 960-1279) these ornamental hairpins were combined with the crown worn by the empress. Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn during the Ming dynasty(明, 1368-1644) varied according to the wearer's social status and it was worn both by the empress and other court ladies. Jeokgwan(翟冠), one type of Bong-gwan(鳳冠) worn by the queens and princesses of Ming dynasty, was given to those of the Joseon dynasty as a gift until the early 17th century. According to the portraits and remains of China, when women wore the Jeokgwan(翟冠), they were supposed to place the crown onto the hair, and then, fix the crown to the hair by putting on gorgeous hairpins. The lower edge of the crown was wrapped around with Gu-gwon(口圈), which was decorated with kingfisher's feathers. There are several flowery decorations on Gu-gwon(口圈), and this style is similar to Daeyobanja(大腰斑子), a queen's ceremonial hairband during the late Joseon dynasty.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.732-740
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to discuss Joseon dynastyis first perspective on the Western-style Court Costume which was newly introduced to Joseon through the problems receiving the credential that Japan had sent in new style. For this study, the records of Joseon and Japan at that period have been analyzed. The followings are the results of this research; First, a critical argument on the Western-style Court Costume occurred just before the Port Opening because whether wearing a western costume was the key factor in Joseon dynastyis receiving the credential that Japan had send in new style. Second, Japan received western costume as its domestic courtesy system by establishing the Court Costume of Civil servants in 1872 and consequently Japan established new ceremony procedure of western-style bow in 1875. Third, Joseon dynasty officially opposed to the Western-style Court Costume when Japan sent the credential, because the western costume selected by Japan had beenregarded as that of western barbarian at that time in Joseon. Accordingly, it seems reasonable that before the introduction of western costume into Joseon dynasty, an open-door policy for the West had been a prior settlement for Joseon dynasty regardless of the details of Western-style Court Costume. And also, the pride of civilization of Joseon dynasty, which has been used to express Joseon dynastyis identity as Joseon-centrism, had to be converted before the open-door policy. Ultimately, it could be inferred that the reception of the Western-style Court Costume had been raised as the political and diplomatic problems in the circumstances when the submissive relationship in the traditional Eastern- Asia had been forced to be converted to modern sovereign international relationship.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.63-79
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• 2009

Since the 1970's, UNESCO and ICOMOS have adopted or emphasized on the principles of historic preservation. One of them is what to require a repair have not to be repaired beyond the limits of the features and techniques to have been born in those days of establishment. On the premise, this paper is to examine the materials and technique of lime plaster work in order for roof ridge, and for bond paste of stones and bricks in government constructions in the late of Joseon dynasty(17~19c). The result of this examination will come up with a basic conformity in the case of repairing the building established in the late of Joseon dynasty. This paper is carried out for the proper repair and restoration of architectural cultural properties. Construction reports and other documents in those days are examined for the study. Following conclusions have been reached through the study. The components of old plaster mixtures which agglutinate stones each other were quicklime, perilla oil, and paper fiber. The components of old plaster mixtures which point joint of black bricks consisted of slaked lime, perilla oil, paper fiber, and cereal starch. These components were the same as coat surface of roof ridges. In the case of times, one of the following sand, white clay, sap of boiled elm bark was added to these components for the purpose of high efficiency. These materials and techniques which applied to plaster work of those buildings had developed in the process of making royal tombs. But these materials and techniques were quite different from the present.

• 대한한의학원전학회지
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• 제30권3호
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• pp.11-40
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• 2017

Purpose : The purpose of this article is to make a clarification that Hwang Doyeon(黃度淵) was a official doctor(醫官) who even served as royal doctor(御醫), rather than merely a general doctor who worked in the private sector. The article also attempts to give a new perspective on the medical history about the late period of Joseon(朝鮮) Dynasty. Methods : In researching Hwang Doyeon's master work, the Gains and Losses of Medical Orthodoxy(醫宗損益), the article looks at his clinical medicines. Analyzing the historical records, the article makes an assumption that Hwang Doyeon and Hwang Dosoon(黃道淳), who was selected as an officer to discuss medicine with other medical officers(議藥同參), are the identical person. On this assumption, the article tries to reinterpret the medicine during the later Joseon Dynasty period. Result & Conclusion : The records, including the royal medical treatment records of the Gains and Losses of Medical Orthodoxy, the Daily Records of Royal Secretariat(承政院日記), the genealogy of Changwon Hwangs(昌原黃氏世譜), academic paper and government documents released posthumously, demonstrated that Hwang Doyeon and Hwang Dosoon are the same person. If so, we can have new historical interpretation about medical history of late Joseon Dynasty. First, during the late of Joseon Dynasty, there was an official and active medical knowledge interaction between government and private sector. Second, the Joseon's medicine has been established its own medical system based on the Treasured Mirror of Eastern Medicine(東醫寶鑑), trying to cope with cholera and other contemporary epidemics without relying on Chinese warm disease(溫病) medicine. Third, the Compilation of Formulas and Medicinals(方藥合編), is regarded not only as a must-read medical reading for medical doctors, also playing an important role on popularization of Korean medical knowledge.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제28권
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• pp.89-108
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• 2022

국립중앙박물관 소장 금속활자는 약 50만자로 앞서 연구된 조선 금속활자에 기초해 갑인자(甲寅字)활자 33점, 을해자(乙亥字)병용한글활자 29점 등 조선 전기 금속활자 62점의 형태 조사, 비중을 측정하고 조성성분을 바탕으로 통계분석하였다. 갑인자활자 33점, 을해자병용한글활자 24점은 2성분계 청동(구리-주석)([A]그룹), 을해자병용 한글활자 5점 중 4점은 3성분계 청동(구리-주석-납)([B]그룹) 1점은 2성분계 청동(구리-주석)([C]그룹)으로 주석 함량이 높다. 본 연구에서 다수의 활자 성분 통계분석을 토대로 조선 후기 임진자(壬辰字)활자와 비교한 결과, 후기 활자는 구리 함량이 낮고 아연, 납 함량이 높은 특징이 있어 조선 전기와 후기 활자의 분류 가능성을 확인하였다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.638-653
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• 2014

The structure of noble centered social status of the late Joseon Dynasty collapsed due to the commoner's higher status and increased level of consciousness caused by the growth of commerce and agriculture. In art, the a Korean and ethnical style dominated; however, with a diversity in the depiction of human figures in portraits, Buddhist paintings, genre paintings and folklore paintings. This study examines the diversity in human figures expressed in the paintings of the late Joseon Dynasty by expanding the common aesthetic fixed to the typical Joseon style of renowned painters. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The human figure is categorized into three different types of 'realistic', 'ideal', and 'distortion' based on the aesthetic category. First, the realistic type is defined literally by its realistic and detailed depiction of noble class portraits classified as extreme type and general type. The extreme type's formative element is hypersubtlety which includes a simultaneous aesthetic of aptness and ugliness. The general type shows subtlety with aesthetic of aptness. Second, the ideal type is defined by representing the standard form of time and criteria classified as beautified type, absolute type, and dignified type. Each shows a different character of gender of femininity, androgyny, and masculinity. Third, distortion types are defined by a characteristic expression of humans by transshaping the features in various methods categorized as grotesque, abjection, friendly, rustic, and caricature type. Each shows different formative elements of bizarre, patheticness, voluptuous, inartificial, and immaturity.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.49-62
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• 2023

This study was prepared for the purpose of restorative consideration such as the construction background, scale, and location of buildings by comparing the historical materials of two countries, Korea and Japan, focusing on Choryanggaeksa. Choryanggaeksa was a building with a special purpose installed in Dongnaebu in the late Joseon Dynasty, and was also a space exclusively for Japanese envoys. When Choryangwaegwan, the only place of diplomacy and trade with Japan in the late Joseon Dynasty, moved in 1678, Choryanggaeksa was also built and continued until its function ceased due to the modern opening of the port. As diplomacy and trade with Japan take place in the category of Choryangwaegwan, the existence of an interpreter takes an important place. Therefore, Seongsindang, a space for interpreters, was built near Choryanggaeksa. When the modern port opened in 1876, Choryanggaeksa and Seongsindang lost their original function, but the building remained. However, after the 1890s, a Superintendent office was built on the site of Choryanggaeksa, and a school was established on the site of Seongsindang. It was destroyed when the site of Choryanggaeksa and Seongsindang was converted during the opening of the port, and its remains cannot be found today due to urbanization.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제27권2호
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• pp.17-28
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• 2018

This study explores the space and society of Seorin-bang(瑞麟坊), using the Hanseong-bu family registry from the Gwangmu period to demonstrate the urban organizational units used during the late Joseon dynasty known as Seo(署)-Bang(坊)-Gye(契)-Dong(洞)-Tong(統)-Ho(戶). It seeks to examine how Seorin-bang's space and society changed with time. First, the study offers approximate demarcation for Gye and Dong through spatial verification of Bang-Gye-Dong-Tong-Ho of Seorin-bang in late Joseon Dynasty, whose precise locations were formerly undetermined. Second, it explores the relationships between Bang-Gye-Dong-Tong-Ho which has been widely understood to be hierarchical by previous studies, and classifies the relationship dynamics between Gye and Dong into four types. Third, the study finds that Seorin-bang retained much of its urban structure including roads, plots, and streams and maintained stable population distribution under the Japanese colonial rule, and continuously served as place of residency for many throughout the Gwangmu period. This study has major implications in that it illustrates space and society of Seorin-bang by converting the family registry from the late Joseon Dynasty into spatial data, and observes its changes subsequent to the Japanese colonial rule.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 복식
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• 제61권5호
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• pp.147-163
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• 2011

King Jeong-jo (正祖) was the 22nd king of Joseon dynasty (朝鮮王朝), who led the golden age of Korean culture during his ruling. This study is on the burial dressing of King Jeong-jo based on the publications during his ruling; such as "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)", "Chungwan Tonggo (春官通考)", Jeong-jo "Gukjang Dogam Euigwe (國葬都監儀軌)", "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe (正祖殯殿魂殿都監儀軌)" and "Jeong-jo Sillok (正祖實錄)", "Gukjo Sangrye Bopyeon (國朝喪禮補編)" was published in 1758. It compiled the funeral protocols of royal court, complementing the shortcomings of protocol documents published till then. "Chungwan Tonggo" was published in 1788, compiling all the protocols and customs practiced during Joseon dynasty in an organized manner. "Jeong-jo Gukjang Dogam Euigwe" and "Jeongjo Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Euigwe", record the burial dressing and the state funeral of King Jeong-jo in detail based on the contents of above protocol publications. In addition, the 'Daeryeom Euidae ', 'Soryeom Euidae', 'Seup Euidae' and 'Mokyok Euidae' that had been actually practiced were studied in detail based on the records in June/July, 1800 in Book 54 'Jeong-jo' of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty. The timing of King Jeong-jo's state funeral was when the most elaborated and complete protocol books of Joseon dynasty had been published. Therefore, it was possible to explore the solemn and magnificent funeral culture and King's burial dressing in late Joseon dynasty by way of King Jeong-jo's burial dressing.