• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제57권2호
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• pp.118-141
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• 2024

본 연구는 고문헌(古文獻) 기록과 도상자료(圖像資料)를 조사·분석하여 조선시대 수해 방지를 위해 계획적으로 조성된 한양도성(漢陽都城) 내 청계천(淸溪川) 가산(假山)에 식재된 버드나무 수책(樹柵)에 대해 고찰하였다. 그동안 버드나무에 관련된 연구 사례는 있었으나 버드나무의 구체적인 활용사례와 그 역사적 배경을 조사·분석하여 그 원형적 가치를 파악하는 데 목적을 두고 진행된 연구는 찾아보기 어렵다. 이에 본 연구는 조선시대 청계천에 조성된 버드나무 수책의 사례를 확인하고 조성 배경과 지역적 특징을 조명함으로써 그 가치를 재해석하고자 하였다. 본 연구의 주요 내용은 다음과 같다. 조선시대의 수재(水災)는 제일 큰 위해 요소로 작용하였을 것으로 추정된다. 16~18세기 조선은 홍수로 인한 피해가 심각하였다. 영조 시기에 이르러서는 도성의 사산(四山)이 모두 민둥산이 되었는데, 이는 잦은 홍수의 원인이 되었다. 1760년(영조 36)에 영조는 준천사업(濬川事業)을 통해 장마 때마다 넘치는 청계천 바닥을 준설하고 오간수문 양안에 조성된 가산에 버드나무 수책을 조성하여 수해를 예방하고 토양의 유실을 방지하는 조치를 시행하였다. 영조 시기인 18세기 중반에 제작된 《광여도(廣輿圖)》 속의 <도성도(都城圖)>에는 오간수문(五間水門) 앞에 조성된 가산이 보이고, 『신증동국여지승람(新增東國輿地勝覽)』의 기록에서 1760년(영조 36)에 버들을 양쪽 가산에 심었다는 기록을 검증하였으며, 1770년(영조 46) 제작된 <한양도성도(漢陽都城圖)>를 통해 18세기 후반에는 오간수문 근처의 가산 위 버드나무가 숲을 이루어 우거졌던 사실도 확증하였다. 또한 『조선왕조실록(朝鮮王朝實錄)』이나 『승정원일기(承政院日記)』, 『일성록(日省錄)』 등의 고문헌 기록을 통해 청계천 준천사업과 버드나무 수책의 조성이 조선 전기인 15세기부터 조선 후기인 19세기 말까지 계속되었다는 사실을 확인하였다. 본 연구는 홍수 및 수해 방지는 물론 아름다운 경관을 형성하는데 큰 바탕이 되었던 조선시대 버드나무 수책의 조성사례와 그 활용성을 조사함으로써 버드나무가 고유한 문화유산이자 전통 경관자원이었음을 알리고, 버드나무의 역사적 의미를 되새기는 데 의의가 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.60-74
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• 2020

A Podaegi is a square cloth used to carry a baby. Podaegi was an essential necessity for raising baby. However currently Koreans prefer baby-carriers, baby hip-seats, and equipments other than Podaegi. Recently, Podaegi is becoming popular around the world. Therefore, it is necessary to study Podaegi to inform Korea's traditional parenting culture product. In this research, 230 images of Podaegi were collected from paintings, photographs, postcards, films and artifacts from the late 18th century to 2000. The period of study was divided into three phases from the late Joseon Dynasty to before the opening of the port, from the opening of the port to before the liberation, and from the liberation to 2000. Types of Podaegi were categorized according to its shape and how to use. Transition process of Podaegi was examined. Podaegis were categorized into band type, blanket type, combination type, cheone type, modern type, and so on. From the late Joseon Dynasty to before the pre-openings, band type was used. From the opening of the port to liberation, all types of Podaegi appeared. Since the liberation, the use of band and blanket type has gradually decreased. Modern types have been the most popular since the 1960s. Materials of Podaegi became varied and Podaegi became a fashion-item. Later, modern Podaegi became the representative form of Korean traditional Podaegi.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.176-191
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• 2014

This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2015

This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

• 한국조경학회지
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• 제45권5호
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• pp.60-70
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• 2017

본 연구는 우리나라 약초원의 형성 과정을 추적하고 조경사적 의미를 밝히는 데 목적을 둔다. 이를 위해 본초학 연구가 이루어진 삼국시대부터 조선시대에 이르는 시기의 의료체계 속에서 약초원과 관련한 기록을 찾아보았다. 약초원은 여말선초인 13~15세기에 발달하였다. 지역성을 강조하는 성리학적 자연관의 영향으로 토산 약초를 뜻하는 향약(鄕藥)에 대한 관심이 높아진 고려 말 문인들이 약포(藥圃)를 가꾼 경향이 발견되며, 향약 조사 발견 재배 탐구 등 관련 정책이 시행된 조선 초 종약전(種藥田)이라는 이름의 약초원이 조성된 사실이 확인된다. 내의원과 혜민서와 같은 중앙의료 기구 부속 시설이었던 종약전은 15세기 중반에 실재했던 것으로 확인되고 조선 건국과 함께 설립되어 조선 후기에 쇠퇴한 것으로 추정된다. 종약전은 약현, 율도, 여우도, 사아리 등 한양 도성 밖 여러 곳에 있었고, 그 규모는 18세기 초 당시 약 16만 제곱미터였다. 형개, 지황, 감초 등을 포함한 수십 종이 종약전에서 재배되었고, 내의원에서 파견된 의관과 관노비 수십 명에 의해 종약전이 운영되었다. 종약전은 새로운 약초에 대한 학문적 관심이라는 사회적 배경 측면에서 르네상스시대 의과대학의 약초원과 공통점을, 약초의 종류 위치 기능 등의 측면에서 중세 유럽의 성곽과 수도원 내 약초원과 유사점을 지닌다. 본 연구는 약포와 종약전의 구체적 공간 형태를 밝히지 못한 점에서 한계를 가지나, 우리나라에서 약초원이라는 정원 유형이 여말선초 향약을 중심으로 한 의학의 발달과 함께 나타났으며 공동체의 치료제 재배를 위한 실용정원으로 기능했음을 밝혔다는 점에서 의의를 지닌다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.31-38
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• 2023

Most of the changes found on the toi-maru of the Sang-chun-heon Historic House indicate that the upper structure of the toi-maru of the late Joseon Dynasty houses where toi-bo was installed was not completed in an instant. Toi-maru with stud is especially typical in 3-Dori type Structure, and can be found in many historic houses in Yang-dong Village, where the many 3-Dori type Structure is located. This type can be interpreted as the intermediate type that began at the eaves was settled as a toi-maru with a separate toi-bo. It seems that the toi-maru in front of the on-dol room at the time of the construction of the Sang-chun-heon historic house would not have been the same as it is now. The members dividing the on-dol room, the walls, and the various incomplete appearances seen in the window composition can be construed as traces of the change. The fact that all three types of houses that occurred during the spread of toi-maru after the mid-Joseon Dynasty can be examined can be added to the existing evaluation of cultural property houses in Yang-dong Village.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.855-866
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• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제42권2호
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.7-18
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• 2012

On behalf of the royal women, SangGung(尙宮:The head of female servants in the palace) and NaIns(內人: Female servants caring for royal families in the palace) were dispatched in order to attend a funeral at the royal tomb. The NaInGaGa(內人假家) is the temporary building for SangGung and NaIns in the royal tomb. It is comprised of lodgings for them and also workrooms and warehouses to prepare ritual offering for the dead King or Queen. In the early Joseon dynasty, the NaInGaGa was utilized until a funeral at the royal tomb. Since 1674, NaInGaGa for the 3 years-period lamentation was started constructing separately. At these processes, the plan and placement of NaInGaGa was changed. This study based on the SanReungDoGam-EuiGwae (山陵都監-儀軌: The report on constructing royal tomb). The SanReungDoGam-EuiGwae written since 1800 have illustration about NaInGaGa. The illustration and explanation about NaInGaGa become a important clue that make suppose detailed space of NaInGaGa.