Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.
Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.
Maintaining our tradition makes us have pride for our nation and plays important role for recognition and establishment of identity for our unique culture in the world. Contrast to the western scientific technique, the scientific technique of Silla Bell absorbed in the life of our nation is the fruit of wisdom science found through rich life and experience by harmony between our nation and nature. Today, ideological backgrounds for many cultural heritages weren't be found and there are many overflowing hypothesis. Silla Bell is the plastic art including cumulative utopia of the racial spirit. So there would be the information of the racial spirit including symbolization, artistry, creativity, and historicity. However, unlikely with the words, it is the profoundly concentrated shape, so the meaning can be diluted or distorted in later generation. The efforts to figure out the symbolization in Korean bells, especially Silla bell according to its exclusive shape, but no hypothesis was accepted as an established theory of academia by gaining extensive agreements. Thus this paper traces the symbolic meaning accumulated in the shape and prepares for the theoretical background accessing to the artistic spirit of forebears who created super-humanity formativeness. Also regarding the Silla bell which is regarded as the best Buddhist metal craft that people believe they can be free from the anguish at the time of listening to its sound, we studied the symbolization of the bell as the religious ritual custom as well as the possibility to utilize the bell as a motif of living art in the aspect of formative expression.
Among the various decorative techniques in fashion design, this study is to study the decorative effect of the aesthetic finishing technique on fabric. Despite the recent expansion of the use of decorative techniques by aesthetic finishing of fabrics, most of the studies have focused on one or partial techniques, and there has been no part on the use of broad techniques or the application of overall design. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to collect the expression techniques of aesthetic finishing and its fashion cases that have been sporadically performed by examining the decorative techniques of fabric aesthetic finishing as a whole, and to provide practical data, help design thinking, and further contribute to the development of higher value-added products. To this end, this study was conducted in parallel with theoretical consideration and empirical research. First, through the analysis of decorative images and fashion cases examined based on theoretical considerations, six creative costumes were planned and produced by reorganizing them according to the flow of modern fashion using a design concept. As a result, it was confirmed that each aesthetic finishing technique is an effective decorative technique that is applied and harmonized to a part or all of the costume to create a new and unique surface effect and formative beauty, and to increase strong visual effects and luxury. Therefore, through this study, it is expected that it will help satisfy the aesthetic sense of consumers seeking high-end and individualization in the future. Therefore, in future research, it is necessary to expand and deal with the aesthetic finishing of fabrics in more depth, and it is expected that multifaceted research and development will continue.
The purpose of this study is to grasp creation background and social position of courtesan which is treated in social and cultural context and its effect on fashion and research representative courtesans from ancient hetaera to the 19th century and their costume characteristics. Its another purpose is to analyze the costume of Violetta, who is a heroine of opera and its costume characteristic as a courtesan. Most Courtesan clothing were made from bright color, silk and lace which were light, or transparent materials. Using silk and cashmere which were the symbols of class, she took the cutting edge fashion and struggled to break the social barriers. The clothing which the Courtesan wore always became a gossip among people and popular to the designers who could show their creativities because the Courtesan boldly wore the cloth like movie actresses or stars. The Courtesan who led the fashion not only showed the fashion as a simple expression of the beauty but also as a socio-cultural phenomenon which reflected their social awareness with arts, and changed according to the situations of the time and people. Violetta's party dress which was shown in the first and third acts of showed the shoulders and chest because of the deep and wide cut decollete, the waist was tightened with a corset as much as possible, and the opulent hips were inflated by the crinoline so when they walked it was swaying. Also it was decorated with splendid materials such as silk and lace, and sparkling jewels, fans, and neckless and even in case of the general clothing in the second act, it was decorated with braids and lace, frills and ribbons. In the third act, the weakness of the sick woman who was closing her life as the splendid Courtesan was emphasized by using colors of white and light purple and thin transparent materials.
A pattern is a symbolic mark of the psychological expression and ornamental desire of the human interior. In particular, plant patterns, from ancient times to modern times, express beauty across both the east and the west. The Joseon dynasty had a strong national will, and it was a time when the symbolism of Korea was established. Plant patterns were decorative and symbolic, filled with meaning in both the textile and craft sectors. This study looked at the frequency and figurative characteristics of the types of plant patterns in textiles, ceramics, woodworking, and metal craftsmanship of the Joseon dynasty. In addition, pattern designs were developed by extracting unit patterns to maintain the original shape, and by adding, magnifying, reducing, and superimposing flat steps and employing the four-fold sequence. The data collected was 826 examples in textiles and crafts, and 34 species of plants were analyzed as follows. In general, the flower patterns preferred soft flowers, flowers, apricot, and peony patterns, and fruit patterns emerged as decorative designs for pottery and woodwork from the 17th century, featuring pomegranates, grapes, fluorines, peaches, and walnut floss. Textiles and woodwork were arranged with many circular designs, while pottery and metal crafts were filled in many ways. Expressive types appeared to be the same as stylistic types for textiles and ceramics, and the construction types were the same in pottery and metal crafts. As such, it was found that even in the different areas of the sculpture, the same aesthetic values were reflected in the common figurative features today. Therefore, in this study, we developed a unique and competitive pattern design that accommodates the modern times and the Joseon dynasty. This development is expected to contribute not only to the development of cultural and tourism products in the future, but also to the tourism industry induced by the Korean wave.
A Study on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong and Italian futurist fashion It is generally recognized that the color scheme and its characteristics as a product of living culture are strongly reflected in clothing. This study concentrates on the color comparison of Korean Saek-dong which has been used in traditional Korean clothing and Italian futurist fashion which showed dynamic characteristics and brilliant colors. The purpose of this study is to investigate the external format, emotions, functions and meanings of the colors in Korean Saek-dong and Futurist fashion, and to find similarities and differences between them. The results of the study are as follows. The similarities between them are harmony of vivid colors like a rainbow, no-use of black color and expression of rhythm through repeated geometrical shapes. They have been used as festive costumes and have implied meaning of happiness and pleasure. The differences, in the external formats, are as follows. Korean Saek-dong has striped patterns including the color white, and has regular distances among the stripes. But, Futurist fashion includes luminous or fluorescent colors and metallic colors. In addition, it has repeated motifs of geometrical shapes and geometrically divided areas. While Saek-dong expresses Sangsaeng through the conceptual use of color, Futurist fashion shows simultaneity, speed and dynamics through spiritual functions of crossing and inter-penetration. In emotional aspect, Saek-dong expresses pleasure of children's mind and Futurist fashion expresses pleasure of city. In functional aspect, Saek-dons expresses a concept of ceremonial beauty, which is spiritual and symbolizes good auspices, holiness and sorcery. So it is used for ceremonial costume. But, Futurist fashion reflects the harmony of colors created from modem and urban images and shows the willingness and emotion of solving futuristic avant-garde, modernity, dynamics, transformation and bellicosity. So it is used for daywear. While Saek-dong represents succession of tradition, Futurist fashion represents resistance of tradition in cultural aspects.
The layer technique is to produce many memorable scenes by generating layers of new experiences on the existing ones as it is adding the cognitive layers on to the visually seen landscape. Its need is high for places whose landscape itself influences perception, value or expression and which determines the spatial and quality standards. The existing floor plan-based design methods have failed to be useful in generating complex visual experiences. In order to maximize the aesthetical landscape experiences in landscape planning, cognitive layers are needed which complement the input of adequate cognitive elements and the inter-element relationships. Here, layers are utilized to change the arrangement of the landscape elements and coordinate the cognitive flow so that the images could be connected and imagination could occur. A case in point is Anhyun Village in Gochang where physically distinctive layers are additionally set to make a visual experience enriching. The new landscape layers discover the fact that it provides diversity in experiencing the village landscape and forming the sense of beauty and that it is deeply immersed into the daily life of the village. Meanwhile, Guwau Village in Taebaek is an example showing the usefulness of various-layer setting in landscape planning in setting effective circulation planning. That is, the bottom line is the spacing-starting where and making it stay where for a few seconds, and the visual layers. It is also critical to encourage inducing circulation so that layers of the senses stimulating five senses could intervene. Lastly, Mulgeon-ri in Namhae is a case which directly made a parallel of the physical layers of the landscape composition and the cognitive layers of the landscape experience. Artificial landscape planning is mostly about manipulating of visual traits that people feel beautiful, but the layer technique is linked to how to make experiences enriching and renewed.
민화(民畵)에 대한 논의는 지금까지 여러 방향으로 지속되어왔다. 회화 작가들에 의해 응용되며, 또한 디자인의 기본 자료로 활용되기도 한다. 이는 대부분 '한국의 미'라는 관점에서 용인되어 시도되는 것들이다. 그만큼 민화는 한국의 대중적인 회화를 상징하고 잊혔던 정신의 한 면으로 통용되는 것이다. 그러나 많은 활용에도 불구하고 민화의 뚜렷한 독창성에 비해 명맥만 유지하는 현상이다. 만화의 특성과 많은 공통점이 있음에도 불구하고 과감한 만화의 시도는 보이지 않는다. 따라서 과장과 생략, 풍자와 시사성, 대중적인 그림화법, 희화적 요소, 이상향의 세계표현, 작가마다의 다른 이해에 의한 화법 등 민화의 특징에서 독창적인 그림을 분류하고 연구하여 만화적인 화법에 적극 활용할 수 있는 계기가 되고자 한다. 민화의 유형은 대부분 그림 내용으로 분류한다. 그러나 이 논문의 연구 목적이 민화 속에 만화적인 요소를 찾아내는 것이므로 동물, 식물, 인물, 곤충, 어류, 조류, 자연현상 등 그린 대상으로 크게 묶어 분석하였다. 이러한 분류는 대상의 캐릭터화에 대한 접근이 용이한 장점이 있으며 적극적인 접근을 유도하기 위한 것이다.
A point of view has been diversified where it has been put. We are living in the era that requests many standpoints to us to understand relations involved with me and my surrounding and it will speed up as the aspect has been changed so far. This phase is not exceptional to the design. Various spaces engaged in us have an immaterial phenomenon as composed by, so it is conceptualized to try the other way differentiated before. On the other hand, we can often meet examples of a literature scenario through conceptualizing an immaterial phenomenon as organized. Because of the difference between an individual's value and environment, it is criticized because of limitation to probe right and wrong of the objective feasibility. However, it is requested that this method needs to have an organized grammar in the interconnection broken of the standard of right and wrong in the science as well as goodness, evil and beauty in the morality. Nowadays a montage, which means the way to create objective by combining different points, is more multifariously applied in the generation of mixture asking various meanings and signifier and it's been widely extended. This study intends to pursue a new methodical approach focused on a characteristic of the montage and puts the goal on deduction for an expressive way of a montage specificity practically indicated at the shopping space through the space translation of the montage conception as well as plot of a movie. In conclusion, this study is how to be expressed of the montage expression method to understand.
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