• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1190-1197
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.1242-1253
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to suggest a designing method with excellent body suitability by analyzing clothingwearing porosity, comparing and analyzing patterns, and evaluating outer appearances by designing a prototype of study applied with design measurements for categories that have influence on the outer appearance of clothing through diverse research methods, by comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, which are proportional basic patterns most frequently used in schools for educational use to design bodice pattern for elderly women in their late 60s. As for the process of this study, the first stage selected study subjects, measured bodies. The second stage compared patterns of bunka and new bunka style basic pattern and evaluated outer appearances that deduced important pattern designing categories to design upper-torso bodice pattern of elderly women. The results of this study are as following ; As a result of comparing and analyzing bunka and new bunka style basic pattern, overall evaluation of outer appearance was excellent for new bunka style basic pattern, and bunka basic pattern received better reviews for the width and depth of front neck. In terms of waist circumference, waist front length, bust point location and bust point-bust point, bunka and new bunka style basic patterns showed a significant difference. new bunka style basic pattern had 4.5cm larger front armhole depth than bunka basic pattern, so it was evaluated to have more appropriate front armhole length, bust point location, and bust point-bust point. Through observation for primary excellent categories and precedent studies, 7 categories of front neck width, front neck depth, front interscye, back neck width, back neck depth, back interscye, and back armhole depth were deduced to have relations to the extra room around arm holes and waist that affect pattern designing method and porosity and evaluations of outer appearance.