• Title/Summary/Keyword: the 20th century

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Transition of Women's Hairstyles after Renaissance to 20th Century (르네상스 이후 20세기에 이르는 여성 헤어스타일의 변천)

  • Lee, Kyung-Hee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.15-23
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    • 2007
  • In the Middle Ages it was customary to cover up the hair, but the Renaissance brought uncovered coiffures with the revival of humanism. In those days, silk and linen veil, ribbon, string of pearl used for covering, wrapping round with the hair. During the Baroque period, the style of hair was to pursue the beauty of imbalance in form, reflecting the atmosphere of the time. Hurluberlu and Fontanges hairstyles were in fashion. Then in the Rococo period, huge, resplendent coiffures of exquisite beauty were invented as a symbol of power, and these modes of hairdo were a dominant force in the culture of personal adornment of that time. Pouf and enfant hairstyles were in fashion. As a reaction against the extravagance of the proceding modes, late 18th and early 19th centuries brought revival of simpler hairstyles of ancient Greece and Rome by the influence of neoclassicism. The latter half of the 1820's onwards saw he reappearance of voluminous coiffures as well as an enormous variation of knots with combinations of false knots and chignons. Late 19th through early 20th centuries was the period of beautifully waved hair, the style of which was an integration of Marcel waves and Art Nouveau. The 20th century saw the epoch-making invention of permanent waves using electricity. Concurrently, with an increasing participation of women in social affairs since pre-and post-World War I periods, as well as with Art Deco in full flourish, bobbed hair was created in pursuit of lightness and nimbleness, quickly showing the change of women's modes of life. Hair fashions thoroughly embody the aesthetic sense of each period, reflecting the landscape of contemporary society.

A Study on the Perception of Korean Top Hat, the Gat, from the Late 19th to the Early 20th Century (19세기 말~20세기 초 한국 갓의 인식에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Soon-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.6
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    • pp.176-191
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    • 2014
  • This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.

Luxury Characteristics in Mass Fashion through the Historical Review of Fashion System (패션시스템의 사적 고찰을 통한 매스페션의 사치 특성)

  • Ko, Hyun-Zin
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.10 no.5
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    • pp.739-747
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    • 2008
  • There have been increasing consumption of luxury fashion and recent marketing researches on luxury syndrome, trading up, etc. in mass fashion today. Historically the consumption of luxury had been concentrated on only upper class in the past. But since 20th century, the mass consumers of modern consumptive society show their interests in luxuries which had been preoccupation of few elite class. Accordingly, it can be thought that the historical review on the changes in the meaning of luxury should be necessary for a better understanding of modern luxury consumption in sociocultural context. The purpose of this study is to grasp the sociocultural meaning of luxury in modern fashion with a holistic viewpoint by examining the changes of luxury consumption in mass fashion. It will be helpful as a conceptual approach of modern luxury consumption. For this, the documentary study has been executed. It focused on since 20th century, which can be the root of mass productive and consumptive society in fashion history. The results are as follows. The luxury in court elite system before 20th century had been concentrated on few elite class exclusively but gradually began to be represented as inferior cheaper version by mass production according to their increasing interests since industrial revolution. The luxuries in elite designer system in the first half of 20th century were represented as illegal design piracy and legal genuine reproduction in spite of problems brought about between originality and copy. The concept of mass as consumer was virtually alienated in both systems. But in fashion system since the second half of 20th century, various types of consumer luxuries has appeared on account of the trading up phenomenon in drastic growth of mass culture.

Ontological Analysis on the Phenomenon of Contemporary Architecture - Focused on the Avant-garde in the End of the 20th Century - (현대건축 현상의 존재론적 해석 - 20세기말 아방가르드를 중심으로 -)

  • Byun, Gye-Sung
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.14 no.2 s.42
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    • pp.21-40
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    • 2005
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the features of the avant-garde architecture in the end of the 20th Century based on the ontology as a metalanguage. In view of the results so for achieved, it is possible to say that the thought of becoming, topology, rhizome thought and the Deleuze's concepts of the fold and the event as ever-changing and evolving at any given time are found in the avant-garde architecture, and the introduction of ontological thought into architectural design encourage hopes for a more natural and existential quality in architecture. However, the avant-garde architecture in the end of the 20th century disclosed the limitation in the architectural expression of ontological thought due to the lack of fully understand on ontology. In conclusion, the ontological approach in architecture offers a new morphological methodology and a new way of programming considering the existential aspect of space through the bricoleur's means leaving the ontological meaning of architecture itself.

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A study on the Decoration of Women's costume style from the 18th century to the 19th century (18세기부터 19세기까지 여성 복식스타일에 나타난 장식에 관한 연구)

  • Son, Hyo-Rim;Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.29-47
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    • 2018
  • This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

Evolution of Korean Modern Mathematics in late 19th and early 20th century (근대계몽기.일제강점기 수학교육과 해방이후 한국수학계)

  • Lee Sang-Gu;Yang Jeong-Mo;Ham Yoon-Mee
    • Journal for History of Mathematics
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.71-84
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to investigate the evolution of Korean modern mathematics in late 19th and early 20th century. This article reveals the efforts of incipient Korean mathematicians who had adopted modern mathematics from western countries and the difficulties and struggles they had to go through at that time. At the end of the article, we discussed our current status in international mathematical society.

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A Study on the Change of Urban Spatial Structure and Transformation of circumjacent Lot by Course of the Construction of Railroads and the Dismantlement of Eupseong in the Early 20th Century (20세기 초 철도부설과 읍성해체에 따른 도시공간구조와 주변 필지 변화에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Dae-Jung;Cho, Jae-Mo
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.31-40
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    • 2019
  • Considering the situation in the early 20th century when the existing urban system centered on urban areas began to change, the biggest factors causing urban structural changes in urban areas are construction of railroad and urban dismantling. The change process of Eupseong, in the microscopic viewpoint, can be understood as a process of change in the course of dismantlement of town's demarcation, improvement of accessibility and urban expansion due to the construction of railroads, process of urban expansion following the crumbling boundaries and structural changes. This study aimed to look at the transformation process of the Eupseong in the early 20th century, focusing on the demolition of the castle and the railway construction from a microscopic point of view of city.

A Study of Aspects of Modern Church Architecture Changes in 20th Century (20세기를 전후한 교회건축의 근대적 변천양상에 관한 연구)

  • 조경수;윤도근
    • Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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    • no.20
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    • pp.71-77
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of the research is to reveal the process of the formation of modern church architecture in 20th century. In order to do that, neo-gothic architecture which starts in the point of view of ethic in the 19th century will be discussed first. Then the relations between Arts and Crafts Movement and church architecture which is the beginning of modern architecture movement will be revealed. After that, the purpose of Secession's church architecture which tried to separate from old architecture and the formation of background of localistic church architecture which is one of the modern church architecture will be discussed. Based on those discussions, the research in concluded the several characteristics of church architecture which makes it modern architecture. The research is focused to the portions which is related to the church architectures among the architectural conditions so complicated as to be easily confused. And also it is focused the architect those who should be mentioned in the same context and their works.

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Study on the Characteristics of Western Rocker Style in Mid 20th Century (20세기 중기 서양 흔들의자의 양식적 특징)

  • Lim, Seung-Taek
    • Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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    • v.23 no.3
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    • pp.271-289
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    • 2012
  • This study analyzes the Western rocking chair style of the middle of the 20th century (1945~1970), and investigates academically characteristics from formative and practical points of view. The purpose of this study is to provide basic information on the design and production of the modern Korean rocking chair. In the 20th century, the production of the Western rocking chair displayed principles of both functionalism and optimism. These rocking chairs are constructed of various industrial materials including reinforced plastics, moulded plywood, aluminium, and steel as well as wood. Furthermore, a rocking chair suitable to the human body is made by industrial growth and innovative fabrication techniques such as designer's plastic from military in the First and Second World Wars. In those days, there are many different types of rocker style - traditional, plastics, structural, moulded plywood & bending, metal tubular, and wire mesh. More specifically, through economic prosperity and plastic development, the rocking chair is able to have light and bright colors, which shows sensible formality of the modern and structure.

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Abolition or Maintenance? French and British Policies towards Vietnamese and Malay Traditional Education during the Last Decades of the Nineteenth Century

  • Van, Ly Tuong;Tuan, Hoang Anh
    • SUVANNABHUMI
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.177-206
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    • 2022
  • At different times in the 19th century, the Straits Settlements and Cochinchina were both colonies that the British and the French captured the earliest in their process of invasion of Malaya and Vietnam, respectively. This study examines the transitional stage from the traditional school system to colonial school system in the Straits Settlements and Cochinchina. This could also be considered an experimental stage for building later education systems in their expanded colonies, namely British Malaya and French Indochina, from the closing decades of the 19th century to the middle of the 20th century. This study, exploiting various sources and applying the comparative approach, identifies the factors that affected the different attitudes and choices of policy towards traditional education models of indigenous communities (the Malays and Vietnamese) pursued by the British in the Straits Settlements and the French in Cochinchina.