• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.31-38
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• 2006

Silk fabrics are very popular and widely used because of their elegant appearance. However, silk fabrics generally have easy wrinkle, and do not stretch and deform permanently after machine washing. Then the stretched properties of silk fabrics are important for the application of industrial textile materials such as formal and sports wear. Thus, this research surveys the covering, weaving and degumming conditions for stretched silk fabrics. As a result, yarn breaking stress was reduced with increasing spindle speed, and the yarn twists were optimized under the covering condition of polyurethane/silk with PVA pretreatment. In addition, the shrinkage of the silk fabrics treated with star degumming process was reduced by continuous NaOH degumming process. The fabrics showed the fabric physical properties with optimum stretched properties and evenness surfaces.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

• Journal of Korean Society of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.16-39
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• 1995

From July 8 to September 2 1994, asbestos exposure level among asbestos textile workers was surveyed. Six plants out of plants in Korea were selected for this study. In addition to the exposure level, the relationship between the level of exposure and some factors affecting exposure were studied. Also, using historical data of asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plants plus current data, trend of asbestos exposure level could be introduced. Historical exposure level was estimated on the basis of these data. The main results of this study are follows. 1. Average concentration of all six plants surveyed was 1.54 f/cc, and range of those concentrations was 0.03 - 11.58 f/cc. The minimum average concentration was 0.32 f/cc and the maximum was 8.04 f/cc which is four times higher than the Korean standard. A wide difference of exposure level among the workers of different plants was observed. In three plants, the half of all the plants surveyed, their average concentrations exceeded the Korean standard, and those in all the plants exceeded the ACGIH TLV. 2. Among total 56 samples, 22 samples(39%) were in excess of the Korean standard, and 53 samples(95%) were above the ACGIH TLV. Among 32 personal samples, 15 samples(47%) exceeded the Korean standard, and 30 samples(94%) exceeded the ACGIH TLV. Among 24 area samples excluding a few samples collected in office area, seven samples exceeded the Korean standard, and 23 samples( 96%) exceeded the ACGIH TLV. 3. Distributions of concentrations were observed by processes. In weaving, the highest, average concentration was 4.29 f/cc, and range was 2.61 - 11.58 f/cc. In spinning, average concentration was 2.22 f/cc, and range was 0.41 - 8.93 f/cc. In carding, average concentration was 1.98 f/cc, and range was 0.23 - 10.93 f/cc, In twisting, average concentration was 1.65 f/cc, and range was 0.21 - 9.83 f/cc. In mixing, the lowest, average concentration was 0.48 f/cc, and range was 0.22 - 1.20 f/cc. 4. All the samples from basic processes of asbestos textile plants were above the ACGIH TLV. Nineteen samples(45%) out of all these 42 samples exceeded Korean standard. Fourteen samples(58%) of total 24 personal samples, and five samples(28%) of total 18 area samples exceeded the Korean standard. Considering processes, all the samples in weaving process exceeded the Korean standard and 50 did 54% of those in spinning, 40% in carding, and 27% in twisting. 5. Trend of decreasing asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plants was observed by time. 6. Asbestos concentrations in asbestos textile plant in 1975 were estimated to be 11.0 - 92.4 f/cc.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.49-57
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to research the efficient tool of the exclusive fabric simulation in Jacquard Textile CAD system. For performing this design study, it designed the surface design of the abstract images of flowers through EAT Designscope CAD system and simulated the interior fabric. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these fabric simulations was effected by two or three-dimension modeling through EAT designscope, YongWoo CNI, Alias and so on. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. Before the step of weaving the samples from the surface design works, jacquard fabric design can be done very efficiently to apply the design step of the fabric simulation in CAD(Computer Aided Design). As the usage of the simulation tool in CAD system, jacquard design can be easily feed-back to modify for the right fabrics and produced the various designs in the short running time very efficiently. Therefore, this jacquard design system ultimately can be saved cost and developed the higher value-added goods in more response to consumer demands.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.2 s.87
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• pp.39-45
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• 2006

The aim of this work is to develop sense-differentiated textiles using Thick-Thin polyester yarn(T-T yarn) with finer than 1 denier mono filament. The ITY(Interlace Textured Yarn) using T-T yarn with various over feed ratios of PET filament was manufactured with different shrinking percentage of core yarn and then the fabrics were woven on the same weaving 100m using ITY produced. The mechanical properties and the handles of the fabrics were examined with KES-FB system suggested by Kawabata. The shrinkage of ITY was increased with decreasing over feed ratio and increased with increasing heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The initial elasticity modulus of ITY was decreased with increasing over feed ratio and heat treatment temperature of T-T yarn. The tensile energy of fabrics was decreased with increasing of over feed ratio, but bending rigidity and shear rigidity of fabrics were increased with increasing of over feed ratio of PET filament. The results indicate that the fabric using T-T yarn with finer than I denier mono filament can be used for the purpose of sense-differentiated textile.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.27-38
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• 1985

In KOREA, the history of weaving is so long even in prinitive, there are the traces of fabric emmision using Spindle already in the Neolithic age. And coming up to the period of Three States, becoming active of cultivation of fibers, it can be known the variety of kinds and the production of fine products by improvement of new method of weaving using weaving machine. In the period of shilla state, there is a record of making the fine fabrics with 28 bracts. But wearing of silks fabrics was limitted for only the nobility and common people were wearing native thick hemp clothes. Also in the period of Korea state, they were wearing the hemp clothes by cultivation of hemp. The good quality products were worn by the King or the nobility and women in KOREA made their best with whole efforts to pay to the authorities with woven products of hemp clothes, so in the 14th year of King Chung- Ryul, King prohibited the presentation of fine hemp clothes by his order. By the end of KOREA state, before the production, common people was mainly wearing the hemp clothes. Coming up to the Kingdom of Chosun the sericulture was promoted by establishment of the sericulture encouraging low. Therefore the working hours of women were highly increased. The products of Song-do, Chin-ju for cotton clothes, those of Han-san-the same now as in old times-for ramie clothes, those of Han-Kyung province and An-dong for hemp fabrics were estimated as the best qualities. And the hemp clothes of Kang-won province is not so fine but is very useful and famous for mourning clothes and summer clothes for the farmer. It is true that our history of weaving was begun with hemp as a continous and precious friend of common people during all the historical periods-even though for a while it went backward because of chinese silks.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.107-117
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• 2018

Nettle fiber, a sustainable fiber, was applied to the fabrication of denim to identify changes in textile appearance and formation. For the weaving of nettle denim, nine specimens, distinguished by three kinds of composite use of nettle fiber and three stages of fabrication processes, were used. The kinetic characteristics of the nine specimens were measured by the KES-FB system, and the images of the specimens of finished denim textiles, captured with a CCD Camera, were analyzed. In terms of the extensibility (EM) of nettle denim, all specimens showed post-processing increase, thereby suggesting an easy transformation of the textile as a source material for denim fabric. The effects of washing on the woven formation of denim were also identified. The geometric roughness (SMD), the problematic property of bast-fiber-like nettle fiber, was found to be decreased by washing. In terms of the bending rigidity (B) of the textile, the post-processing shrinking percentage of elastic nettle denim was found to decrease; all specimens that underwent bio-washing only also manifested that post-processing elasticity increased. To improve the draping of nettle denim, a mixed spinning together with washing were found to be advantageous. In terms of the shear stiffness (G), which is closely associated with the appearance of clothes, the formation of textile was improved regardless of the types of processing, including bio-washing and bleach washing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.373-381
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• 2011

This study focused on investigating factors of partnership formation for transactional enterprises on supply chain to form a transactional relationship centering around textile industry in Daegu and Gyeongbuk. The study also investigated the effect of the factors of partnership formation for mutual cooperation among textile manufacturers in Daegu and Gyeongbuk on partnership outcomes, and finally provided basic information that help enterprises form efficient partnership relationships with related manufacturers. The sample of the study was manufacturers of yarn, dyeing, weaving, process and fabrics in Daegu and Gyeongbuk that are registered on Korea Federation of Textile Industries. The total of 81 responses were used for data analyses, and factor analyses, regression analyses, and ANOVA were utilized appling SPSS 14.0 Package. The results of the research were as follows: First, among partnership formation factors mutual confidence was highly related to presentation of exclusive technological information, efforts to keep relationships between enterprises, presentation of information, and transactions between reliable enterprises that were formed despite of any losses. Second, it was also important that enterprises exchange and communicate their business goals with partners by having common goals. Third, it was also important that problems and damages were informed to and were shared with transaction companies. If conflicts between enterprises occurred, they can be smoothly solved based on the partnership formation. Fourth, enterprises form partnerships with transaction companies by considering their operation abilities. Fifth, transactions with enterprises which are mutually reliable and have superior technology and information contributed a lot to economic outcome. Lastly, the study revealed that among partnership formation factors mutual confidence to transaction companies influenced outcome of mutual confidence profit creation, outcome of technology & information efficiency were closely related to the ability to solve generated problem, and an important factor of the outcome of technology & information profit creation was communication.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.452-456
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• 2013

Velvet is a luxury cloth. In Fashion it dresses the Elite. In Interiors, it covers palace walls and upholsters elegant furniture. In every culture throughout its history velvet's sumptuous surfaces denotes luxury, status, power, privilege and wealth. My humble aim is to reveal the artisan in the art-to comprehend the mastery of weaving techniques, to understand the design principles, to study the everyday practice of the weavers at work. In the few ateliers that still weave silk velvet by hand, I have documented their processes and now want to share this knowledge with the broader textile community in hopes of expanding the appreciation of their art. I approach as a fellow weaver striving to learn the mechanics, the practical aspects that guide the work from initial idea to finished cloth. I leave the difficulties of establishing provenance and other important analyses to my more learned textile historian colleagues.