• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.59-63
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• 2003

This study aims at developing of textile design expressed not only Korean natural image but also modern sensibility using fabrics dyed by tie dyeing with various natural dyes. And it attempts to practicality of high value-added goods revived traditional beauty. With the aqueous extract of various natural dyes, i.e., indigo, amur cock tree, onion's peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood silk fabrics dyed by tie dyeing. Also various color changes were examined by mordants, i.e., aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With these fabrics, I made works using the techniques of applique, mola, fabric's connection and weaving. I think the developed textile design gave expression to natural image of Korean nation.

• 복식
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• 제54권8호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2004

This study is to understand the types and characteristics of wool fabrics of the Korea. It classifies the types of wool fabrics whose name can be found in the documents by their weaving methods and it researches their characteristics by type, time, usage, and pattern. In Wool fabric of the ancient age were there compound weaving fabric, such as Gyesoo. which is made with embroidery method, Gyegum, which is made with embroidery in gold threads, as well as general fabric, such as plain-weaved Gal, twill-weaved Sagal, gauze-weaved Mosa, Mora, etc. There were also various weaving methods, such pile-weaved Yung, tapestry-weaved Tabdung, or Guyoo, or Dahm, felt-weaved Jeon, etc. It was found in documents that wool fabric such as Gye, Jeon, Dahm were produced in Korea and China. In case of Korea, wool fabric was enormously developed in Koguryo, Shilla, Balhai, United Shilla. Koryo era. Particularly in Koguryo and Balhai, the stock-farming and hunting were the main parts of their occupation. In Koryo era, the weaving technique of wool fabric had made great development. The wool fabric was used not only in clothing but also in official hats, rugs. wall-tapestries, etc.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권5호
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• pp.108-120
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• 2023

Recently, interest in eco-friendliness and sustainability has been increasing due to the rapid progress of fast fashion and the crisis of sudden environmental changes after COVID-19. This study aims to develop upcycling textiles and express product design using digital 3D to realize a sustainable fashion industry and present environmental aspects, diversity, creativity, and new directions in fashion industry design. The research method is to develop and pattern upcycling textile designs by applying weaving techniques with waste materials. It uses the developed upcycling textile design in digital 3D to incorporate it into clothing fashion and shows the utility and practicality of upcycling textile design. As a result of the study, the appearance is realistic when outputting DTP of upcycling textile design. It endures without loosening or tearing, making it a durable and creatively expressive fashion item. Texpro 3D mapping reduces the time and cost of making actual sample fabric. Upcycling textile design and 3D CLO virtual clothing are combined to produce actual clothing samples, resulting in zero waste reduction due to cutting and sewing. This study anticipates actively and continuously advancing the development of upcycling textile design and digital 3D in terms of ethics and the environment.

• 복식
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.63-68
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• 2008

The hand of the sensitive mixture fabrics was analysed and discussed with measured mechanical properties of two kinds of woven fabrics according to the characteristics of air-jet loom. The 16 mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface were measured using KES-FB system and their differences of the mechanical properties between domestic and foreign looms were analysed with the deviation according to the position of the specimen. And also these mechanical properties according to the domestic and Japan air-jet looms were analysed and discussed with warp and weft insertion tensions during weaving. This research is aiming to make a data base of fabric mechanical properties and, these analysed data are given to weaver as a basic research data related to the effects of loom characteristics to the sensitive mixture fabrics required from weaving fields.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.306-312
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• 2005

This work looks into the behaviour of the twill weave woven fabrics during relaxation (when the weaving tension is released). Ten, 50-metre rolls of twill weave woven fabrics were produced. The fabrics were marked in a rectangular form at the weaving loom. After 48 hours of relaxation, the new shapes and sizes were recorded. The shapes of almost all of the samples were changed to parallelogram, even though they differed in size. The work showed that the manner of fabric deformation during relaxation depends upon the fabric structure. It indicates that contraction due to relaxation of the twill weave causes the woven fabric to skew. in the direction of the twill. The quantity of the skewness is related to the float length and the twill type. Fabrics with longer float length have higher skewness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제16권5호
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• pp.54-61
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• 2004

This research surveys the differences of fabric mechanical properties with the different looms and the fabric positions according to the warp and weft yarn tensions on the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms respectively. For this purpose, the grey fabrics woven by PET filament using two test looms are dyed and finished. The processing shrinkages are measured on each processes such as dryer, scouring, pre-set, dyeing and final-set using the fabric density and width. The mechanical properties of the finished fabrics are measured and discussed with relation to the warp and weft yarn tensions of the two looms and the fabric positions. In addition, the fabric thickness according to the fabric positions such as right, left selvedges and center of the fabrics is also measured and discussed with the characteristics of the Vamatex and Omega-Panter looms.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.15-24
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• 1996

Th)s study was carried out of the historical characters and textile coservations for Mrs. Danha Lee's Wonsam. As the textile material was silk, dry cleaning method was suggested. The solvents for dry cleaning were n-hexane, n-decane, and benzene. During the second cleaning process, the dry soap(HI-TECH, 120:1, volume ratio) was added to the mixed solvents. The reaction's temparature was $20^{\circ}C$, and the reaction's time was 30 minuutes. It seemed to be a gift for hot from the Royal Family because of the attachment of pheonlx hungbae. This wonsam was decorated symmetrically by gold weaving yarn, the basic fabric was green silk satin with glorius letters and floral patterns. It was made on the 17th C and the oldest thing among them.