• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.1 s.91
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• pp.25-42
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• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.78-94
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• 2008

Contemporary fashion is experiencing a rise in design that combines heterogeneous things, or goes beyond the roles, boundaries, and meanings of existing things. This can be described as a 'heterogeneous fusion' that is different in character from the mixed use of heterogeneous materials, borrowed designs, and exaggeration of the silhouette that have been practices in fashion design, or the non-structure, deconstruction, and recombination that have existed since the age when post-structuralism was a central philosophy. This 'fusion' causes a 'confusion' of the generally accepted mental principle of 'one sense reacting to one stimulus', and breaks the boundary between the various senses, causing confusion in the senses of the individual, and leading him or her to experience unfamiliar feelings. In this process, all information received from external sources is not perceived as it is seen, but rather is perceived through a fusion of the individual's motivations, the environment in which it is perceived, the resulting change in emotion, and the individual's past memories. The combination of these heterogeneous elements visually accepted, or such a non-territorial combination acts as a 'fusion of senses' in the individual's perception, which causes confusion in the homeostasis of perception, and a change in emotion, and serves as a factor that causes the information to be stored in the memory for a long time. In parallel with deconstruction or non-structure, the 'heterogeneous fusion' found in modern fashion is taking root as a representative creative trend, and is represented in various forms such as the mixed use of subjects and materials, non-territorial borrowing, fusion with animal forms, fusion with non-physical geometry, and fusion with heterogeneous hair decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.311-317
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• 2011

Objective: The present study was intended to identify (1) the intra- and inter-rater reliabilities of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol and (2) the effects of NaCOC color and scouring method on the visual sensibility of NaCOC. Thirty female participants(20s & 30s) were participated in the visual sensibility evaluation of NaCOC. Background: Interests in naturally colored organic cotton(NaCOC) increase rapidly in parallel with the social trend of eco-friendly living and wellbeing. Method: Three color sets (ivory, green, and coyote-brown) of NaCOC specimens including one untreated and four treated specimens($Na_2CO_3$; NaOH; enzyme; boiling water) were examined in the study. The visual sensibility evaluation was conducted by the test-retest method using nine pairs of bipolar visual sensibility adjectives(bright-dark; clear-murky; heavy-light; vivid-subdued; warm-cool; fresh-stale; strong-weak; showy-plain; and luxurious-cheap). Results: As a result of reliability of a visual sensibility evaluation protocol, inter-rater variability(average SD=1.06) of visual sensibility evaluation was more than 1.4 times the intra-rater variability(average SD=0.74). However, both the sensibility evaluation reliabilities did not show any systematic pattern of changes. Lastly, ANOVA and post-hoc analysis showed that preferred scouring methods for a visual sensibility adjective pair significantly vary depending on NaCOC color. Application: Both the reliability of visual sensibility evaluation protocol and the analysis of proper scoring method of NaCOC in the study would be useful information to design the affective textile.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.626-641
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• 2016

Maximalism in modern fashion, which is contrary to the current fashion market that emphasizes functionality and practicality, is an important notion that has been expressed in a variety of ways through designer's unique sense with a mixture of experimental design. With such creative work that suits a trend in novel fashion design, Rei Kawakubo is a current representative of Comme des Garcons who has not only introduced deconstructivism and Japanese-style avant-garde to the fashion industry for the first time. Our research, thus, analyzed the characteristic of maximalism's expression based on the features represented in her collection. Firstly, Expandability is classified as a method of distorting parts of a body and a method of excessively overinflating the silhouette of clothing. Secondly, decorations are expressed in the other as blending different types of materials together. Thirdly, fantasy evokes a fresh and stimulating surreal sensation that may only be felt in an imagination by assigning supernatural and amusing expression to the garment. The forth, fusion refers to a creation of novelty from combining various types of elements and images. The fifth, experiment is unique trait that develops mysterious images, consisted of various details. The sixth, non-structure is different from an initial form of garment that maintains a bilateral symmetry. The importance of our research lies in proposing a fundamental data for development of creative design as well as in expanding a range of possible expression for maximalism, by analyzing the characteristics of maximalism seen in Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.52-68
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• 2007

[ $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ ]Look style has been showing up continuously since 1980s in the fashion world. In response to that, this study aimed to look into the trend of design in 1960s and examine the formative artistic characteristics in $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look in order to explore the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Look of Andre Courregs. Following the flow of the times, the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$'s design has transformed and developed through the styles of the pants suit look, the space age look, the mini look and the sporty look. His own style constructed by simple line like a mini skirts, accurate rates, geometric patterns, high tech materials, vivid color and etc, in 1960s. He has also innovated the fields of textile, garment cutting, details, and accessories. The $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style was expressed by pure&avant-garde style, sporty&modern style, cheerful&reveal style and dynamic&funny style. Functionality with humor to $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ was an important element that expresses both youth and casual. For the active, new woman, not only a funtional beauty but also a futuristic sensibility is expressed in the $Courr{\grave{e}}ges$ Style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.141-157
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.9_10 s.157
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• pp.1400-1412
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• 2006

As PB market segments into premium market, PBs were drawing attentions in terms of creating profits as well as a means to differentiate building up store identity. The purpose of this study makes a comparative study on the difference of consumer attitude formation process in discount store and home-shopping distribution channel which are recently on the upswing. This paper investigated the consumer's attitude formation on the private apparel brand. Subjects of this study were consumers in their $20s{\sim}40s$ who are main customer groups of PBs. The data were analyzed by Structural Equation Modeling and Multi-Group Analysis of Amos 5.0 to verify the difference of the path between store PB and premium PB. Following are the results of the study. Consumer attitude formation path on PB grades showed statistically noticeable difference. In discount store PB, store evaluation didn't directly influence on consumer attitude formation but showed indirect effect. On the other hand, in home shopping premium PB case, product evaluation directly influenced on consumer attitudes with store evaluation. Hedonic attitude dimension connected with behavioral attitude(purchase intention) revealed difference in path. Also consumer's evaluation on variables in model turned out to be different according to brand grade.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.1 s.7
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• pp.4-11
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• 2006

Masstige goods aimed consumers who want the fame and the emotional contents with reasonable price are presented overall and around the life style, from all the fashion items like bag and apparel to car, electric household, food, sports goods, furniture, toys, pets and performance of art, etc. Masstige casual, essentially different from the passed casuals which emphasized only price strategy, appeals to teenagers and young of twenties with a definite brand concept. Therefore masstige casual might be separated from business casual of a target aged thirties. Established celebrity brands have launched masstige brands matching the popularization of prestige goods. Armani Exchange from Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs from Louis Vuitton are representative ones. DKNY from Donna Karen, MiuMiu from Prada, Paul smith Pink from Paul Smith can be added. These are relatively inexpensive, however the quality, design and shop's atmosphere are more exclusive than general brands. Consumers are over middle class and have a pride and fidelity to those brands. Leading Masstige trend, new luxury brands put the importance to the quality and aims middle class. To succeed in this field, companies should know exactly what consumers want, considering not only functional aspect but also emotional pleasure. Even though masstige has a weakness in pricing, it has to keep brand's proper benefit. Its price range could be wide to be in great demand but has to have elasticity and not to be expanded too much. Masstige industry should do its best not to damage original brand's identity. Forming family brand, like Armani made Georgic Armani, Emporio Armani and Armani exchange, system of parent brand and sub brands would be recommendable. From the launching time, masstige needs the effects to create a sensation and bring it into vogue and offer emotional value to the consumers.