• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.141-155
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• 2004

Chitosan, the natural biodegradable polymer derived from chitin by de- acetylation, has been widely applied to the textile finishing processes for excellent anti-microbial characteristic and handle improvement of fabric. The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of handle when cotton fabric is treated with chitosan-polyurethane mixed solution. The viscosity values of chitosan solutions were 8cps and 50cps, and the wet-pick-up% was maintained at 90%. In case of mixing with water soluble polyurethane, the mixture ratio of chitosan and polyurethane was settled on the solid content ratio of 1:0, 1:0.5, 1:1, 1:2. Also the change of physical properties by neutralization in NaOH solution was studied. The results can be summarized up as follows : 1. Extensibility(EM) and tensile energy(WT) of cotton fabric treated with chitosan are decreased, but bending rigidity(B) is remarkably increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of EM and WT is weakened and the increase of B is weakened. The case of neutralization is similar to the case of polyurethane addition. 2. By treating fabric with chitosan, FUKURAMI(Fullness and softness) is decreased, but KOSHI(Stiffness), SHARI(Crispness), HARI(Anti-drape Stiff ness) are increased. With the addition of polyurethane, the decrease of FUKURAMI is diminished and the increase of KOSHI, SHARI, HARI are diminished. 3. As the viscosity of chitosan solution increased, the air permeability value increased. The addition of polyurethane decreased the air permeability.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.32-44
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• 2012

This study proposed a color scheme that is harmonious with the working environment of industrial sites using Birren's color harmony theory for color planning. To apply the Birren's color harmony theory to working clothes, the basic colors were chosen, and six of the eight harmony formulas of Birren excluding achromatic colors (white + grey + black) and solid color harmony (solid colors + white + black) were used to form a palette for each case. For the basic colors, the color chips of four dominant colors (yellow-green, sky-blue, blue, and violet), which were chosen from a field survey for preferences in the first step, and the production of materials in the second step were collected through the PANTONE color chips. The selected color chips were PANTONE 13-0550 TPX, PANTONE 15-4105 TPX, PANTONE 18-3949 TPX, and PANTONE 19-3720 TPX. These color chips were scanned and their RGB values were extracted through Photoshop CS. Then the colors were arranged in accordance with the Birren's color harmony formulas (Color+Tint+White, Color+Shade+Black, Tint+Tone+Shade, Shade+Tone+Black, Shade+Tone+White, and Tint+Shade+Tone+Gray). In addition, the proposed palette color schemes were applied through Birren's color harmony formulas using Texpro V 10.1 textile to the schematization of working clothes that were designed in the previous study. Palette formation in line with Birren's color harmony formulas provided scientific color arrangement results. Visually presenting the color scheme of working clothes will help the color selection of working clothes in tune with the circumstances of industrial sites.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.20-29
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• 2018

Today, visitors of art galleries like to share their life in their communities than interacting with artwork. Meantime, image sharing of an exhibition on social media has become more important than actual watching of the artwork. Accordingly, most of the galleries have started paying more attention in organizing an exhibition environment for proof-shots to attract more visitors. We initially conducted research about the internet environment from the late 1990s to the recent years and analyzed the changing watching patterns of the exhibition since the advent of social media. Secondly, for empirical case analysis, we selected 'Plastic Fantastic' held in D-Museum as the target of analysis. The analysis targeted 500 recent postings that were discovered on Instagram on March 4, 2018, as 'Plastic-Fantastic'(in Korean). The methods of analysis included classification types of image, hashtag, and text on Instagram and were arranged in an order of relation to the exhibits. Based on the image analysis, 44.2% of the images involved exhibition displays; the others included a person or other goods. Based on the results of the text and hashtag analysis, only 3.6% of posting included information about the exhibition and 56.4% had non-related inflow hashtags only with image. The behavior of these shares is likely to gradually lose the inherent meaning of the exhibition and to the value rather than imparting the artistic thrill that viewers derive from art. Exhibition should try to seek deep interaction between the display, audience, and social media users, rather than encouraging the visitors to take proof-shots.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 2001

This study is to provide basic data for the development of domestic ready-made shoes industry by illustrating any problem in regards to the ready-made shoes for ordinary salary men through looking into its uses and gratifications. Subjects for this study were in between twenties and sixties by applying convenient random sampling method, which was done in January to February, 2001. The results were as follows: 1. General foot shape of subjects was that foot breadth was wide whereas instep height was average. In regards to the metamorphic parts of foot, the most metamorphic part was the fifth toe which could be occurred by disagreeable shoes to foot. 2. General salary men (69.5%) wear the formal shoes and their wearing time per day is over 10 hours (49%), which illustrates that more suitable and convenient functional shoes needs to be developed. 3. Almost of subjects tended to purchase ready-made shoes, and their concerns to be considered when to purchase ready-made shoes were its size and solidity. This finding suggests that the size specification of the ready-made shoes needs to be more specific in terms of its length as well as foot breadth. 4. The most unsatisfied point on the ready-made shoes was the foot breadth. According to the Crosstabulation analysis on the discomfort part and the foot breadth, there existed a significant correlation between the discomfort part and the foot breadth (p$\leq$0.05). The above results make clear that overall salary men have complaints on the ready-made formal shoes in terms of its size and wearing comfort level. This suggests that the subdivision of the shoes size specification needs to be developed to improve the wearing comfort level.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.20-27
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• 2005

To find suitable color for an individual is very important in personal image-making. In recent years, the importance and role of personal image is also more emphasized. This study deals with the necessity d personal color system and the proposal of color which looks nice on a person as a result d personal color system. It also includes the method of making personal image by balancing between and using both favorite color and unfavorite color. Besides, I study how does the color image affect the personal appearance image in this paper. From clinical experiments, I concluded as follow. First, Each person has his suitable color. When the color is used, the color, pimples, flows and so on are covered and defects of his face are made up for. Second, By changing the factors of his own original color-group and decision factors - color d skin, hair, eye, etc -, I can change personal color-group. Third, The image of color affects the personal appearance image, when it used in make-up and hair-color. Considering above results, If one uses one's suitable color, one will complement defects done's face and improve merits of one's. Besides, One will be more confident and active by using one's suitable color.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.