• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.135-152
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolic meaning which is immanent in the children´s clothing advertisement text. For the purpose of this research, this study used the semiotic method which are in parallel. Namely, rearranged the R. Barthes´theory and S. Chapman's analysing frame in order to decode meaning which is immanent in the advertisement text, and 1 coded children's clothing advertisement according to the market fractionation cause (age. sex and brand image), and analysed the paradigmatic meaning and socio-cultural meaning- As a result, to carry on the effective children's clothing advertisements. the discriminate paradigmatic system which corresponds with the concept of company brand and the quality of the target consumer should be selected, and the purchaser volition considering desire of target consumer's self image and brand image should be made. Futhermore it should be the social-cultural product reflecting a phenomenon in the social-cultural actual condition. Therefore we must understand the social-cultural meaning in the children's clothing advertisement and then have to establish an advertisement strategy.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.88-99
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to observe the significance and symbolic meaning of fashion design which is combined with machines, and to develop excellent designs in aesthetic aspects. The method of this study analyzed the related documents and journal, fashion magazines. The results is as follows. The cyborg discourse and virtual human body in virtual world predict the existence of new human. In present times, up-to-date equipments such as wearable computer have begun to be built-in clothing based on technology, and these dress and ornaments influence on human's life gradually in practicality and ability. These equipments are divided as military affairs, medical treatment equipment, leisure, information access and communication, guard, and business assistance. And according to the kind of item, they are divided by headwear, clothing and accessory. The significance of clothing combined with machine is practical viewpoint, economical viewpoint and aesthetic viewpoint. And the symbolic meaning of these fashion combined machine with technology is dis-identity in digital society, dis-borderness between human and machine and the uncertainty of human being. Like this, the clothing which is combined with high-technology shapes its own unique and individual system. But, this must escape from the limit of medium system itself that is technology to become a future clothing for human, suggest new agenda about human and society, and confirm the human being's existence and identity continually.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권10호
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• pp.1629-1639
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in the culture of Korea and Japan. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Kabuki. This survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone, and 3D color analysis by extracted color data. And representative color according to Obangsaek is proposed. The results of this study are as follows: 1. High chroma red in Kabuki costume is more used as symbolic color(passion and luxurious) in order to show character's personality than that in Changguek costume. 2. Low chroma YR color(no-dyeing color) in Changgeuk costume much more used because of Korean white robe preference and eco-friendly thinking. But high chroma yellow is restrictive color for symbolic color of emperor in Korea and Japan. 3. Blue is most frequently used in both costumes because blue is encouraging color by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine. 4. White in Korean Changguek costume is more used for white robe preference thinking, but black in Kabuki costume is much more used for symbol of power in Japan. The similarity of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use much Obangsaek, less Ogansaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, but the difference of Korean and Japanese cultural color is to use color differently according to preference thinking system.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.127-144
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• 2005

The aim of this study is to find out the symbol of clothing decorations in Elsa Schiaparalli's design works and there are four major points due to the aim of this study. Firstly, a fantasy is represented through Surrealistic Arts which creates mysterious, secrete, and surprising spirits. In Surrealistic Arts, the fashion of schiaparelli demonstrates a fantasy spirit by using the methods like metaphor, transformation, and re-positioning. Secondly, In Surrealistic paintings, normally double image or different image from symbol immanent were expressed. However, Elsa Schiaparelli used double and multi-image decorations instead that has well-organized formative effect. The mixture of double images can be separated as symbolic mixture, design mixture and expressive mixture. Thirdly, the body parts has represented symbolism and sensuality in Surrealism Arts. Elsa Schiaparelli has demonstrated the expression of modern clothing as passionate, desirable, and powerful. This is the reason why her designs were absolutely different from the previous sihouette-focused clothing. Fourth, there are lots of intentional decoration that are different from actual images, such as transformation, exaggeration, minimization and repettion, as well as, re-location, re-arrangement, line-up arrangement, collage and odd materials.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.33-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.926-937
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• 2005

The analysis category of Art to Wear was text analyzed from the research material of 100 projects put together by fashion specialist. The conclusion of Art to Wear was comprehended the general features of it were compared and analyzed from a semiotics context. According to this analysis, the formative features of modern Art to Wear is categorized into three different dimensions from a semiotics light. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of syntactic dimension was divided as an open constructed shape of Space Extension, non-typical Deformation, Geometrical Plasticity. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of semantic dimension express symbolic meaning through metaphorical sign. These sign reflect the body image of the life and death and its objective of Abjection, Hybrid of discultural appearance and the image of Hyper-reality, which are features used to comprehend the inner meaning. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of pragmatic dimension divided the artist emotion and meaning system delivered by Emotive Image, the Phatic Image that arouse inner signification and the Poetic Image which contain artistic and aesthetic meaning within it.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1209-1219
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• 2000

The importance of souvenirs are increasing immensely these days owing to the increase of foreign visitors to our country, which forces us to turn our eyes to this field. Upon these reflections, this study aims at aims at developing cap designs that satisfy the foreign tourists needs and let them recognize the outstanding beauty of Korean traditional patterns by applying traditional motifs. The Korean traditional patterns and their symbolic meanings were researched as well as the previous studies on the designing of goods for foreign visitors which had traditional patterns applied. Furthermore, the overall tendencies of the purchase of souvenirs and goods by foreign tourists in Korea as well as in foreign countries were investigated. Next, the present state of apparel goods and caps for sightseers in Korea was analyzed according to their shapes, colors, and patterns. Finally, by using CAD system, new cap designs were developed applying traditional bat motifs in order to capture the traditional images for a modern sense of beauty.

• 복식
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2006

Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.