• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• Archives of design research
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.47-56
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to clarify how modern formative art reflects surrealism and propose a Art Make-up expressed based on the trend. The study also aims at demonstrating the part that the Make-up based on surrealism is also an artistic being keeping pace with the trend of art. For the purpose, the study reviewed related theoretical backgrounds and works as manufactured. Based on these theoretical backgrounds, the author anufactured works of his own, realizing the combination between theoretical and practical aspects. Those works were motivated from existing surrealistic paintings or otherwise made surrealistically through creation by the author for himself. The works included , (Work 2-MAGRITTE's Expression>, , , and . Results of the study, which were obtained through manufacturing the works, can be described as follows. First, senses of modern formation and line were emerged by applying the materials and images frequently shown in surrealistic paintings to human bodies. Second, characteristics of the Art Make-up for artistic image were revealed, not limited to colors, expressions, subjects, techniques and materials. Third, an unlimited, interesting expression of the Make-up using a variety of materials became possible by applying extremely subjective, surrealistic paintings and images in various ways. This paper proposed that the Make-up should be a artistic image itself, not as a secondary means for an obvious expression of personal beauty which has been maintained since the ancient times. The researcher tried to put the Art Make-up into our daily life by making creative works which viewed and psychologically enjoyed by people and by proposing the works as sort of image theme to the spectators.

• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.135-142
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• 2019

This study explores the ways in which depaysement and its dreams function as a hallucinative allegory on the basis of the spiritual freedom of surrealism in Luis Bunuel's films: "The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie" and "The Phantom of Liberty". In order to grasp the appearances of the sign in the scene of these films, it examines how he uses surrealism's dépaysement techniques such as the disposition of floating object, bipolarity, and physical contradictions of images. These emerging aesthetic views are as follows: the antipathy to reason, the critique of law and order, the aversion to ideology, and state apparatus. These finally aim at criticizing fundamental irrationality, thus paving a path for opening the possibility of liberation. He laid the foundation for a surrealist film by appropriatizing surrealist techniques to spread his claims. Therefore, this study argues that filmic scenes of dreams and hallucinations for a hallucinative allegory are closely related with the technique of depaysement network which summons the significance of surrealistic freedom in these films.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.46-53
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• 2004

This study has importance of that it verifies applicability of a new interpretation of surrealism to spatial design. Transcendental cognitive form of idealism, concept of time and space are premise of reality and surreality is finally condensed to the matter of time and space. Surrealistic techniques are automatic description, double association, montage and etc, and all of them are trials to approach to essence of images expressing unconsciousness through spatiotemporal changes of object. The purpose of this study is to find the surrealistic methods that can be applied to spatial design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.7
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• pp.103-116
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• 2010

Recently, the art of the Latin America Culture is being actively introduced into our country. Many concepts in the fashion field contain Latin American culture and their influence is growing. This present study, based on a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture, is an attempt to expand the expression of fashion design and explore the use of works of art in fashion. The case study is on Frida Kahlo (1907~1954), who was a Mexican woman painter who gives us some inspiration in contemporary fashion design. The scope of this case study investigates the Haute couture and the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2009 which were greatly influenced by Frida Kahlo and analyzes through the formative elements of dress, color, form, pattern and material. Frida Kahlo was a painter whose composition of surrealism held the world of life and death, pain and pleasure, love and parting, thought and freedom, and tradition and modern, etc. As a design inspiration, her influence reaches into accessories, and hairstyles, as well as the Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\grave{a}$-porter. This current study for the correct understanding of the new culture and the introduction of art into the fashion design might be helpful in making fashion a work of art and in extending the expression of the fashion design concept which is based on commercial art.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.543-551
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• 2009

The history repeatedly shows that designers have sought their creative inspiration from fine arts. was also influenced by contemporary art such as surrealism or installment works. This thesis aims to examine the inter-relationship between contemporary art and contemporary furniture design with examples of organic modernism and minimalism furniture design. Also, will be analyzed in light of such interdisciplinary relationship, explaining the significances of in scholastic perspective. The previous research analysis of finding out examples of how fine art and design sought mutual exchanges to develop will help to examine the significance of in the context of art history. This analysis could be used as an important academic material to understand the origin and characteristics of modern design furniture. The features of surrealism and minimalism will be discussed in light of their influences on and interactive relationship with organic modernism furniture design. This provides important basic material to further analyze . Furthermore, the artistic language and plastic features of contemporary sculptors and installment artists such as Jean Arp, Richard Serra and Anish Kapoor will be examined to show how integrated and combined main features of those artists. extracted cognitive and phenomenological aspects from Serra's works that overwhelm viewers with their massive scales. Somewhat abstract yet somewhat primitive and dynamic features of Arp's works was also referred to . are made of FRP, composed of three partitions and six stools. This work was analyzed in aspect of form, composition and function. They have organic and flexible formations with free composition availability which endow free disassemble and arrangement. Also, they have cognitive features as of small elements are freely dispersed upon spaces to bestow certain presences. Based on this, this thesis could develop scholastic researches that examine the mutual and interactive relationship between contemporary art and furniture design with much more detailed discussions and examples.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.352-367
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• 2007

Viktor and Rolf, despite their short career in the field, has been continuously giving a fresh impact on fashion design by grafting a surrealistic approach to their design works. As a basis of this study, we review the features of surrealistic drawing and the surrealistic features expressed in surrealistic clothes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the surrealistic features detected in the clothes designed by Viktor and Rolf on the basis of the above standard and review and predict the future trend in fashion. As for the research method, we review the previous researches and analyze the drawing works by some representative surrealistic artists, in particular, Schiaparelli's clothes in the 1930s, the clothes of surrealistic trend since 2000, and Viktor & Rolf's clothes. The result of the analysis is as follows. The surrealistic features of Viktor & Rolf clothes can be found in the movement of natural objects, the movement of everyday materials, the movement of clothing items, and visual illusion on clothes. As a whole, the surrealistic features clearly stood out in their clothes. High technology will rapidly change the modern society and we humans are likely to resort to something fresh or different as our emotion and feelings are getting tired and weary. Something that stimulates our feeling and emotion hidden behind our reason or logic will be reflected in design far more than something complex and functional. For this reason, as it reveals human imagination inherently, surrealism is expected to establish itself as a mega trend in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.123-138
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• 2004

The objective of this study is to review the expressive effect of fashion illustrations and to enlarge its expressive range by analysing the correlations between fashion illustrations and surrealistic expressive characteristics. The results are as follows. The surrealistic expressive methods of fashion illustration such as depaysement and automatism have been used by many foreign and domestic fashion illustrators. I think that these methods reinforce the subjective aspect of expressive effects and enlarge the transmitting function of fashion message. The elements of expression are divided into color, texture, shape/form and space. Subjective colors rather than natural colors are used for the surrealistic expressive effect of color in fashion illustrations, and illusion of space is expressed by the change of brightness. The surrealistic expressive effect in fashion illustrations distorted the experience of factual texture and disturbed the visual texture. The use of tactile texture presented strange effects perspectively. The objects of shape in fashion illustrations were mainly human body. The form of human body presents reconstituted and reinterpreted figure by transformation or distortion according to the intention of the artist rather than realistic and physical form. In fashion illustration, the transformation of the human body itself whose body parts get separated, superposition of exterior material and human body, and the distortion of human body by the change are done. Space is where background and shapes are inter-penetrated because they are ambiguous and untransparent, and where all are in disorder and unbalance. The method of projection uses distance perspective, multiple perspective and amplified perspective representation, and forms a psychological space feeling. And I think the use of surrealistic expressive methods are very useful for the subjective sensitiveness and the transmission of a fashion message, and presents a possibility to develop a new expressive method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.787-803
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to reestablish the innovative and experimental designs of Rei Kawakubo by considering and analyzing the flow on the avant-garde nature of her design collection from 1981 to 2017. Design trends such as the art trend, silhouette, color, and expressive technique showcased in Rei Kawakubo's collection from 1981 spring/summer to 2017 spring/summer were examined through precedent studies, books, internet materials, and the avant-garde expressive nature of her designs appearing in modern fashion. Additionally, this study considers the definition of avant- garde and analyzes the expressive nature of Rei Kawakubo's 137 works from the Comme des Garcons collection, exhibited in New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. As a result of this examination, the avant-garde expressive nature seen in modern fashion was classified into the following themes: historicity, de-structure, exaggeration, intermixture, and surrealism. As a result of reclassifying these characteristics according to historical flow, the historicty, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 1980s, while intermixture, exaggeration, and de-structure appeared in the 1990s. More recently, historicity, intermixture, and de-structure appeared in the 2000s, and intermixture, de-structure, exaggeration, and surrealism appeared in the 2010s. The present study is significant in providing theoretical material for the more innovative and various design development in diverse domains while helping to define and understand the avant-garde expression through Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.126-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.