• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.384-394
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• 1993

A simple surf zone model is presented The present model takes a quite different approach by showing that wave action is conserved in the surf zone. This condition together with the conservation of energy enables us to develop a surf zone model that requires fewer empirical coefficients. The model is capable of predicting surf zone properties and is presented in analytical forms for the two-dimensional gradually-sloped bottoms. The analytical results were compared favorably with available laboratory data. This surf zone model provides the surface current pattern of the vertical circulation model. and consequently, significantly contributes to solving the three-dimensional current pattern.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.33-43
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• 2004

A carbon budget model was constructed and analyzed for the Bangjukpo surf zone ecosystem in southern Korea by using the NETWRK. The model consists of 11 living and 1 non-living groups. Using boxes and arrows, a topological map was created to depict biomasses of each group and exchange rates between them. The system includes primary producers of phytoplankton and benthic algae, primary consumers of particle feeding zooplankton, carnivorous zooplankton, meiobenthos, malacostracans and bivalves, and top consumers of detrivorous, omnivorous, carnivorous and piscivorous fishes. The surf zone ecosystem was analyzed by means of network analysis, showing total system throughput of $574\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ development capacity of $1,876\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ ascendancy value of $768\;gCm^{-2}yr^{-1},$ Finn cycling index of $4.4\%$ and internal relative ascendancy of $27\%.$ These results were compared with similar data from other systems.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.581-589
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• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.147-154
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• 1999

A Numerical model is developed in order to predict cross-shore beach profile change. In this model it is assumed that sediment transport is generated by waves(bed load transport suspended load transport) and undertow which is defined as offshore directional steady flow in the surf zone. In addition wave tank experiments which reproduce storm-surge were performed. By comparing resulting profile of calculation with experiments, the applicability of this method is verified.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.333-341
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• 2008

A remote sensing technique to identify trajectories of breaking waves in the surf zone using oblique digital nearshore videos is proposed. The noise arising from white foam induced by wave breaking has hindered accurate remote sensing of wave properties in the surf zone. For this reason, this paper focuses on image processing to remove the noise and wave trajectory identification essential for wave property estimation. The nearshore video imagery sampled at 3 Hz are used, covering length scale(100 m). Original image sequences are processed through image frame differencing and directional low-pass image filtering to remove the noise characterized by high frequencies in the video imagery. The extraction of individual wave crest features is conducted using a Radon transform-based line detection algorithm in the processed cross-shore image timestacks having a two-dimensional space-time domain. The number of valid wave crest trajectories identified corresponds to about 2/3 of waves recorded by the in-situ sensors.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.154-163
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• 2009

Incident wave angles are conventionally estimated by the directional spectrum analysis of wave data collected from in-situ sensors. The in-situ measurements are limited in monitoring incident wave angles in the wide surf zone, since the techniques are typically expensive, labor-intensive, and point-measuring. In this study, estimation of incident wave angles using wave crest features captured in digital video imagery is proposed to observe incident wave directions over the surf zone. Line signatures of wave crests having high image pixel intensities are extracted by moving an interrogation window to identify high intensity pixels in sequential video images. Wave angles are computed by taking the first derivative of the extracted crest signatures, i.e. local slope of the crest signatures in the two-dimensional physical plane. Compared to the wave angle estimates obtained by the directional spectrum analysis, video-based wave angle estimates show good agreements in general.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.527-536
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• 1996

The patterns of diel horizontal migration (DHM) of 7 copepod species are compared as part of a general investigation of the zooplankton adaptations to the surf zone habitats. In a sandy shore surf zone of Yongil Bay, 3 sites such as the bottom and surface of 1 m water depth and water's edge are sampled with a sledge net(n=108). The surf zone copepod assemblage is dominated by 7 species; Acartia hudsonica, Fseudodiaptomus marinus, Paracalanus indicus, Calanus sinicus, Oithona similis, Sinocalanus tenellus and Labidocera bipinnata. Threefold variations in copepod abundance are observed within a diel cycle. Abundances of 7 dominant species and total copepods captured in the surface exhibit significant diel differences, but those taken in the bottom are not significantly affected by diel period. It is shown that about $90\%$ of the surf zone copepods performed DHM. The nocturnal high densities of copepods occurred for a neap tide when the offshore winds prevailed, suggesting the animals' ability for horizontal orientation and an active locomotion without invoking passive transportation by currents. Photoreactive behavior of copepods triggered by relative changes in light intensity may be a primary factor inducing DHM by aggregating in the surf zone during the night and spreading out at day; then copepods may reduce encounters with visual predators. In A. hudsonica, ontogenetic variations in timings of DHM are evident. Such variations are likely to minimize intraspecific competition for diets. Data on shoreward migration of copepods indicate that A. hudsonica, P. indicus, O. similis and S. tenellus can maintain swimming velocities of about $20m\;h^{-1}$ for durations of more than an hour. Our observations of strong diel difference in abundances point out the need for both day and night samplings in surf zone habitats, if the importance of these habitats to planktonic copepods are to be fully understood.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.11-22
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• 2015

In-situ measurements are labor-intensive, time-consuming, and limited in their ability to observe currents with spatial variations in the surf zone. This paper proposes an optical image-based method of measurement of currents in the surf zone. This method measures nearshore currents by tracking in time wave breaking-induced foam patches from sequential images. Foam patches in images tend to be arrayed with irregular pixel intensity values, which are likely to remain consistent for a short period of time. This irregular intensity feature of a foam patch is characterized and represented as a keypoint using an image-based object recognition method, i.e., Scale Invariant Feature Transform (SIFT). The keypoints identified by the SIFT method are traced from time sequential images to produce instantaneous velocity fields. In order to remove erroneous velocities, the instantaneous velocity fields are filtered by binding them within upper and lower limits, and averaging the velocity data in time and space with a certain interval. The measurements that are obtained by this method are comparable to the results estimated by an existing image-based method of observing currents, named the Optical Current Meter (OCM).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fisheries and Ocean Technology
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.334-341
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• 2014

The diet composition of juvenile Korean piscivorous chub, Opsariichthys uncirostris amurensis were studied using 277 specimens collected from January to December 2004 in the surf zone of Nakdong river estuary. The size of Opsariichthys uncirostris amurensis ranged from 2.6 to 9.1 cm in standard length (SL). Opsariichthys uncirostris amurensis was carnivore that consumes mainly amphipods and insects. Its diet also included small quantities of polychaetes, fishes, and algae and plants. Opsariichthys uncirostris amurensis showed ontogenetic diet change. Smaller individuals (< 4 cm SL) mainly consumed amphipods. The portion of these prey items decreased with increasing fish size, and this decrease was paralleled with increased consumption of larger preys such as polychaetes and fishes. Insects were preyed moderated values in all size classes. Opsariichthys uncirostris amurensis diet also showed diel change with consuming more on amphipods and polychaetes during day.