• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.234-240
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• 2001

In order to improve the washing fastness of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric, it was dyed by using auto and anthraguinone type disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods used in this study were normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during normal reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The washing fastness property of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric was slightly improved by reduction clearing with $N_2$ gas replacement or with ultrasonic treatment comparing with normal alkaline reduction clearing. It was found that the use of $N_2$ gas replacement or ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing eave effective removal of unfixed dyes on the fiber surface. We also obtained that the azo type disperse dye on polyester artificial fabric suede fabric showed higher wash fastness than anthraquinone type disperse dye.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.211-222
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated the dyeing properties of the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric with Sulphur black dye regarding to the effect of dye concentrations, reducing agent contents, sodium carbonate contents, antioxidant contents, immersion temperature and exposure time in air by pad-steam process. The optimal conditions of dyeing for the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were determined with dye concentration of 30% o.w.f., reducing agent content of $9{\sim}13g/{\ell}$, sodium carbonate content of $1{\sim}4g/{\ell}$, antioxidant content of $1{\sim}5g/{\ell}$, immersion temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, exposure time of 20 minutes in air and immersion time of 1 minute, respectively. Meanwhile, the colorfastness to washing, the colorfastness to light, and the colorfastness to perspiration for dyed ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades. The formaldehyde and arylamine were not detected on the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric by KC tests.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.128-137
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• 2000

A range of suede-like samples were collected including woven fabric type, nonwoven fabric type, and natural suede(sheep). The surface textures of these suede-like fabrics are rather diverse and different from the plain filament type fabrics since there are a lot of fine surface free fiber ends. Physical and mechanical measurements were carried using the KES equipments. Based on the Kawabata-Niwa translational equation, primary hand values and THV were calculated. Uniaxial tensile tests were performed. Using glossmeter, the reflectance pattern was analyzed at different incidence and receiving angles. In order to capture the surface images of the specimens, a CCD camera and frame grabber connected to a PC were employed. The reflectance uniformity of the images was measured with line-profile analysis and standard deviation values of the profile of the images were calculated. After the multiscale wavelet transfermation, correlation among the transformed image was analyzed at each scale. The reflectance uniformity of the natural suede was better than that of nonwoven type suede, while that of woven type suede was the last among the selected three samples(natural suede, nonwoven type, woven type). The correlation analysis among images has shown the possibility of using the wavelet transformation of the images as one of the measures to detect similarities among the textured specimens.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.309-315
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• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.12-21
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• 2009

The dyeing property of direct-spinning type and seaisland type 0.2D micro polyester nonwoven fabrics was characterized by three disperse dyes (Dorosperse Red KFFB, Blue KGBR, Yellow KRL) at $120^{\circ}C$ and $130^{\circ}C$. Before and after reduction cleaning, dyeing fastness was evaluated and the thermomigaration after heat setting at $180^{\circ}C$ for 60 min were also evaluated. Direct-spinning type fabric showed better dyeing property, wash fastness, and light fastness, but worse rub fastness than seaisland type fabric. The dyeing property and fastness of direct-spinning type fabric increased at higher dyeing temperature, whereas seaisland type fabric exhibited lower dyeing fastness and the increase of thermomigration at higher dyeing temperature. Non-fixed dye in fiber surface was removed by reduction cleaning process, then dyeing fastness was improved and thermomigration decreased. The higher dye uptake of direct-spinning type non-woven fabric caused the increase of dye molecule migration from fiber internal to fiber surface, so this fabric showed larger thermomigration than seaisland type non-woven fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.61-67
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• 2000

This study was carried out to develope antimicrobial artificial suede by coating with water soluble polyurethane resin and the copolymer of N,N'-dialkyl-N,N'-dialkyl ammonium chloride (DADAAC) and acrylamide as a antimicrobial additve. The copolymer of DADAAC and acrylamide was synthesized by free radical initiation and intra-intermolecular propagation, and the prepared copolymers had sufficient compatibility with water soluble polyurethane resin. The MIC values of the prepared copolymers and antimicrobial characteristics of the artificial suede coated by polyurethane were evaluated. With the increase in the proportion of DADAAC, which is antimicrobially active part in the DADAAC/acrylamide copolymers, the MIC value becomes lower. The MIC value of DADAAC-AA (1 : 1) copolymer is below 30 ppm against S. aureus, and below 90 ppm against K pneumoniae. The artificial suede coated by water soluble polyurethane resin with 1.0% owl concentration of DADAAC/acrylamide copolymer has good antimicrobial fastness as to show colony reduction of above 90% and 80% against S. aureus and K. pneumoniae respectively in the shake flask test after 10 times of washing, and above 95% and 85% after 10 times of dry-cleaning. The elastic recovery of coated suede fabric is not affected up to 1.0% owf concentration of DADAAC-AA copolymer in the polyurethane coating.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.180-187
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• 2001

Generally, polyester microfiber has much greater dye uptake than that of regular ones. In spite of high dye up-take visual shade depth of dyed fabric decreases with smaller denier, which results in poor washing fastness of dyed fabric. In this study, in order to investigate the washing fastness, polyester microfiber fabric was dyed by using two type of disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods in this study are normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The most important factors affecting the washing fastness of polyester artificial suede fabric were found to be the reduction clearing method, the chemical structure of used disperse dyes and the structure and denier of fibers. It was also obtained that the heat treatment of dyed fabric decreased the washing fastness due to the dye migration from inner phase to surface.