• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.153-159
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• 2014

This study evaluates the changes of the subjective hand, preference, comfort and mechanical properties of tricot based artificial suede made from sea-island type micro fibers according to raising condition. The subjective hand and the preference of raised suede for jacket were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts according to raising cycles. Comfort properties were evaluated by air permeability, water vapor transmission, and thermal transmission. Mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand of artificial suede was categorized into three hand factors: smoothness, warmness and thickness. Smoothness, warmness and thickness perception increased with raising cycles which affected hand preference and luxuriousness perception. The thickness and wale density of suede increased with the number of raising. Suede became more compact and less pliable and less stretchable due to increased fabric thickness; in addition, the surface of suede became smoother and compressive since the surface evenness of suede improved with smaller fiber fineness and an increased amount of naps covered the base fabric. Furthermore, water vapor transmission decreased and thermal insulation increased. The best raising conditions for artificial suede was four cycles in which artificial suede was preferred without changes in physical properties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.128-137
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• 2000

A range of suede-like samples were collected including woven fabric type, nonwoven fabric type, and natural suede(sheep). The surface textures of these suede-like fabrics are rather diverse and different from the plain filament type fabrics since there are a lot of fine surface free fiber ends. Physical and mechanical measurements were carried using the KES equipments. Based on the Kawabata-Niwa translational equation, primary hand values and THV were calculated. Uniaxial tensile tests were performed. Using glossmeter, the reflectance pattern was analyzed at different incidence and receiving angles. In order to capture the surface images of the specimens, a CCD camera and frame grabber connected to a PC were employed. The reflectance uniformity of the images was measured with line-profile analysis and standard deviation values of the profile of the images were calculated. After the multiscale wavelet transfermation, correlation among the transformed image was analyzed at each scale. The reflectance uniformity of the natural suede was better than that of nonwoven type suede, while that of woven type suede was the last among the selected three samples(natural suede, nonwoven type, woven type). The correlation analysis among images has shown the possibility of using the wavelet transformation of the images as one of the measures to detect similarities among the textured specimens.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.288-295
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• 2012

Although some degree of mechanical properties of suede fabrics mainly related to non-woven suede fabric has some researched, the thin suede fabric has rarely been researched. In this study, polyester(DTY 50/72) was used for warp, and after producing latent yarn and sea-island yarn for weft, two yarns were compounded to produce sea-island DTY yarn. By using the two produced yarns for warp and weft, we produced thin suede fabric with stretch function. For weft 2ply, weft density 85, 90, 100(picks/in) were applied to weave fabric, and for weft 1ply, weft density 125, 135, 140(picks/in) were applied to produce weft face 5-end satin weave. The mechanical properties of the produced fabric were researched. The result are as followed. The weight loss ratio of the suede fabric produced for this experiment reached 15% on the conditions of temperature $90^{\circ}C$ and 20 minutes, so that island parts were completely separated. The strength of weft 1ply applied suede fabric was about 7.5kg and that of 2ply suede fabric and about 3.5kg. But the strain of two samples ranged from about 40 to 43%. Although Hari was high when weft was denser. The values of Koshi and Kisimi were low. And shear stiffness was high when sea-island DTY yarn was used. The WC value was higher in the case of 2ply than in that of 1ply sea-island DTY yarn for weft, so that we may conclude that Fukurami was more affected in the 2ply case.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.280-289
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• 2016

Silica microgel was prepared by sol-gel process and then functional groups, epoxy group and ethoxy group, were introduced on the particle by coupling treatment with 3-glysidoxypropyltrimethoxysilane. The functional silica microgel(functional SiGel) formation was identified using FT-IR spectrometry. Phase stability for DMF solution of functional SiGel, PU resin and pigment was evaluated by Turbiscan Lab. And physical properties of artificial suede including hand values, morphology and dyeing fastness were investigated. The mean particle size and the specific surface area of the functional SiGel were $0.77{\mu}m$ and $380m^2/g$. Mixture containing the functional SiGel, PU resin and pigment was more stable than the functional SiGel-free mixed solution. Artificial suede prepared by the functional SiGel had appearance and feeling close to natural suede. The migration fastness, the solvent wicking fastness and rubbing fastness of the artificial suede were enhanced to 4~5 grades, 4~5 grades and 3~4 grades, respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.61-67
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• 2000

This study was carried out to develope antimicrobial artificial suede by coating with water soluble polyurethane resin and the copolymer of N,N'-dialkyl-N,N'-dialkyl ammonium chloride (DADAAC) and acrylamide as a antimicrobial additve. The copolymer of DADAAC and acrylamide was synthesized by free radical initiation and intra-intermolecular propagation, and the prepared copolymers had sufficient compatibility with water soluble polyurethane resin. The MIC values of the prepared copolymers and antimicrobial characteristics of the artificial suede coated by polyurethane were evaluated. With the increase in the proportion of DADAAC, which is antimicrobially active part in the DADAAC/acrylamide copolymers, the MIC value becomes lower. The MIC value of DADAAC-AA (1 : 1) copolymer is below 30 ppm against S. aureus, and below 90 ppm against K pneumoniae. The artificial suede coated by water soluble polyurethane resin with 1.0% owl concentration of DADAAC/acrylamide copolymer has good antimicrobial fastness as to show colony reduction of above 90% and 80% against S. aureus and K. pneumoniae respectively in the shake flask test after 10 times of washing, and above 95% and 85% after 10 times of dry-cleaning. The elastic recovery of coated suede fabric is not affected up to 1.0% owf concentration of DADAAC-AA copolymer in the polyurethane coating.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.258-267
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• 2019

Synthetic suede without PFCs(perfluorinated compounds) are followed by subsequent high temperature treatment. But migration fastness of synthetic suede may be reduced due to sublimation of disperse dyes that results from the high temperature treatment. Therefore, in this study, chitosan treatment was used to improve the migration fastness before polyurethane dipping process. Polyester fiber was treated with sodium hydroxide aqueous solution before chitosan processing. This samples treated with a chitosan concentration upto 0.5% were dyed and coated with PUD(polyurethane dispersion). The migration fastness was most improved at 0.35% application. This is presumably due to the fact that the chitosan may increase the dye-binding capability through intermolecular hydrogen bonding.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2009.05a
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• pp.243-244
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the preference and the sensibility for velvet, suede, and corduroy fabrics of the university students. A questionnaire survey was conducted on 153 female students in the Cheongju area, Korea. Frequency, F-test and factor analysis were used for data analysis. Female students preferred velvet and suede fabrics, but they did not prefer corduroy fabrics. They evaluated that velvet fabrics express varied sensibility. They considered that velvet fabrics have a more sexy and chic image than those of corduroy.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.234-240
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• 2001

In order to improve the washing fastness of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric, it was dyed by using auto and anthraguinone type disperse dyes and treated with 3 different reduction clearing methods. The reduction clearing methods used in this study were normal alkaline reduction clearing, $N_2$ gas replacement method, and ultrasonic treatment during normal reduction clearing. The results were as followings ; The washing fastness property of dyed polyester artificial suede fabric was slightly improved by reduction clearing with $N_2$ gas replacement or with ultrasonic treatment comparing with normal alkaline reduction clearing. It was found that the use of $N_2$ gas replacement or ultrasonic treatment during reduction clearing eave effective removal of unfixed dyes on the fiber surface. We also obtained that the azo type disperse dye on polyester artificial fabric suede fabric showed higher wash fastness than anthraquinone type disperse dye.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.211-222
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• 2017

In this study, we investigated the dyeing properties of the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric with Sulphur black dye regarding to the effect of dye concentrations, reducing agent contents, sodium carbonate contents, antioxidant contents, immersion temperature and exposure time in air by pad-steam process. The optimal conditions of dyeing for the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were determined with dye concentration of 30% o.w.f., reducing agent content of $9{\sim}13g/{\ell}$, sodium carbonate content of $1{\sim}4g/{\ell}$, antioxidant content of $1{\sim}5g/{\ell}$, immersion temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, exposure time of 20 minutes in air and immersion time of 1 minute, respectively. Meanwhile, the colorfastness to washing, the colorfastness to light, and the colorfastness to perspiration for dyed ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades. The formaldehyde and arylamine were not detected on the ultra-fine nylon suede non-woven fabric by KC tests.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.115-121
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• 2017

Demands for nylon suede as an artificial leather are increasing due to its functionality and aesthetics. To achieve high value added nylon suede based on green technology, this study was carried out in order to obtain useful data for the nylon suede fabrics with eco-friendly dyeing process by a pad-steam method instead of a dip dyeing process using sulphur black dye to reduce the industrial waste of water. The dyeability of the nylon suede was investigated according to reducing temperatures, dye concentrations, and reducing agent's concentrations. Throughout the results of the CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell values, the optimized dyeing conditions of the nylon suede using sulphur black dye are $70^{\circ}C$ of dyeing temperature, 30% o.w.f. of dye concentration, and $9g/{\ell}$ of reduction agent concentration, respectively. Furthermore washing colorfastness, light colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were achieved in the range of 4-5 grades.