• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.58-73
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of men's wear designs unveiled while Hedi Slimane worked for Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent. The study will analyze and focusing on the modernistic characteristics in order to discover the postmodernism trends in his works. The results of the research are as follows. First, Hedi Slimane's fashion style can be cited as grunge and punk due to the trend of expressing the subculture of postmodernism. The design features shown in Dior Homme were straight lines, leather, metallic materials and dark colors used to reinterpret a grungy punk style, romantic patterns, glossy materials, elastic leather, and bright colors were the salient features of Yves Saint Laurent. Second, the feature of cultural pluralism of postmodernism appeared as a type ethnic style. He presented this through the Third World images in the Dior Homme but Spanish matador images, Marrakech's images and North African images in the Yves Saint Laurent. Third, he feature of his style is metrosexual feminizing men's fashion and breaking up gender stereotypes. I-type and X-type silhouettes that emphasize the human body and feminine design motifs such as a skirt are dominated in Dior Homme, and he completed the metrosexual style by using materials, colors and patterns such as bright feminine pink, red, laces, fur, floral and leopard prints, as well as flagrantly expressing body contour.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.5
• /
• pp.110-123
• /
• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics and the mode of deconstructionism expressed in fashion design centering on review of literatures and precedent researches. Through the review of previous studies and various articles, three major features with regard to deconstructionism were found: indeterminacy of meaning, decentralization, and inter -textuality. In fashion, the feature of indeterminacy of meaning expressed by non formula way such as unfinished, layering, obi or straight line cutting and it was divided into unstructured and unorganized factors. The feature of decentralization expressed by disorganization of sex, race, culture and humanism such as trans-gender, third world costume, sub-culture, posthumanism. Last, the feature of inter-textuality expressed by employing the fashion texts more than two simultaneously such as mixture of unmatched or unusual various clothing items, fabrics, patterns and styles. Non formality features in fahsion which divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors. The decentering of meaning means that disorganized the existing concepts of sex, race, culture and humanism features in fashion which divided into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, the feature of inter-textuality means that employed the fashion text more than two which is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Unstructured factors were expressed by destroying the design principles such as balance, harmony and unit in fashion. Unconstructed factors were expressed by ignoring the basic costume structures and components in fashion. Cross-gender was expressed by manish and duality style in fashion and 3rd world costume was expressed by folk costume style. Anti fashion was expressed by anti aesthetics in fashion such as kitch, punk, and hippie styles. Post-human was expressed by futurism and the 4th Sex style in fashion. Mixing mode were expressed by mixture of item, and unmatched materials and pattern in fashion. Mixture of style were expressed by mixture of pastiche expression of various styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.382-396
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the transition of glamour style expressed in modern fashion throughout the history. The glamour style in modern fashion was categorized into five periods which are Hollywood glamour(H), Feminine glamour(F), Rich glamour(R), Decadent glamour(D), and Trash glamour(T). These categories were analyzed and compared in the viewpoint of aesthetic values deduced on the previous study. As a method of analysis, literature study and case study through the publications in aesthetics, history and preceding theses were used. The results of analysis are: Ostentatious luxury was suggested by extravagance of the movie star in H, the splendid American lifestyle in F, conspicuous consumption in R, fin de siecle bad taste in D and self-assured exposure in T. Mysterious idolatry was studied as exaggerated goddesshood of the movie star in H. It was expanded to celebrities including fashion models, television actresses, pop singers and young couture designers in the other periods. Artificial sensuality was originated from the femme fatale image of the courtesan as well as the traditional femininity of Victorian era in H. It was developed through exaggerated hourglass silhouette of the wife dressing in F. But an aggressiveness in R, a hyper-sexual femme fatale in D, an independent and defiant image of the showgirl in T were observed. Playful queerness stood out clearly by the fin de siecle phenomena. Though it was embodied in sexual perversive subculture, it emerged as hi fashion by young designers in the late R and became a crucial aesthetic value throughout D and T. It is more connected with the origins of glamour which arouses sexual ambiguity, crudity, aggressiveness and death. The continuity and discontinuity of the glamour style based on the theory of 'linked solution' were also analyzed.

• Cross-Cultural Studies
• /
• v.45
• /
• pp.433-478
• /
• 2016

This article investigates the role of Japan in Korean consumption of Nordic design. In spite of the development of greater access to wide information and global markets, the popular trends in Korea have been mediated by Japan. The cultural power of Japan comes from otaku subculture. Japanese influence can be discussed by two sides. One is the images or symbols composing the Nordic style in Korea. The other is the way how to consume the Nordic design. Japanese neopop images combined with the Nordic design. Japanese 'slow movie' has combined American Kinfolk style with Nordic style. 'Database consumption' from otaku subcultre conceptualized by Azma Hiroki can be applied to Korean consumption of Nordic design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50
• /
• pp.69-84
• /
• 2000

Th purpose of this study is three folds: to analyze postmodern fashion through the notion of pastiche to enhance an understanding of uncertain and confused situation in the late 1990s and to suggest a way of approach to creativity and originality in recent fashion design. The results can be summarized as follows: 1. Pastiche is an art work that borrows some parts of other artists authentic works and recombines them thus imitating their style technique or motifs selfconciously. 2. Pastiche is based onthe Deconstruction theory: the end of art as a result of deconstruction of the subject the collapse of the meaning the loss of history: the late Capitalism in which reality becomes chage into images or simulacre. 3. Pastiche represented by the death of author which means the exhaustion of creativity is shown in the fashion borrowing subculture styles and art works or religious images. Pastiche fashion which is equal to the play of signifiers floated as image is shown as graffiti and objects Time and space pastiche fashion can be explained by historical eclectism and ethnic looks, Finally pastiche means not the fixed aspect but the open concept of indeterminate condition which includes " anything goes" through the coesistence of various style in pastiche fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.8
• /
• pp.58-75
• /
• 2013

Steampunk is a term generally used for one of the S. F. subgenre in literature, arts, fashion styles, and lifestyles. This study clarifies formative characteristics as well as the meanings of steampunk fashion style based on its attributes in movies and animations. Attributes of the steampunk are blending time, blending technology, and introspection against science development. In order to have an objective research, this study researched frequency of the fashion item, color, accessory of the collected fashion image, and after interpreted that consequence. Men's steampunk fashion was composed of men's basic outfit such as shirts, vest, jacket, pants, and coats of the 19th century. Black color took up the largest proportion for color. In accessory, top hat, goggle, and steam-powered weapons, in order, were most commonly used. Women's steampunk fashion was composed of shirts and long one-piece dresses, long skirt simply applied 19th victorian style fashion. Yellow, brown, and black color took up the largest proportion of fashion color. In accessory, top hat, belt trimming, corset, and boots, in order, were most commonly used. It is the characteristics of the steampunk fashion that represents retro-future fashion, as it features steam-powered mechanic esthetics, a kind of DIY subculture and transcending division of nationality, class, and gender.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.44 no.12
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2006

A movie's fashion style delivers the overall atmosphere of the scene including the characters's class, personality, spiritual world and inner thinking and even their conflicts in the story. The movie 'American Psycho' directed by Mary Harron and based on from Bret Easton Ellis's original novel ridicules the American yuppie culture of the 1980's through the behavior of the hero Patrick Bateman. The life style of the yuppie sees itself as the high-class embodiment of a particular culture, but the various subcultures such as Glam and Punk show that it is merely a two-faced culture suffering from hypocrisy and mammonism. An analysis of the costumes found in the movie indicated an exhibition of the 1980's Haute Couture fashion, which was mainly occupied by the mainstream social class and of the social phenomenon of post-modernism. The anti-fashion presented in the movie as the resistance culture formed by the subculture was in extreme contrast with the expression of self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.11
• /
• pp.1229-1240
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to review such results of the scientific and technological development as women's changed status, sexual identity and their views of physique in the cyber space based on cyber feminists' theories, and thereby, examine the concept of space during the medieval age, and then, the fundamental spiritual concept involving the fetishism of women's body as sexual objects in the materialistic space of the digital age in terms of the consciousness of trend or supra-sensual perceptions, and thereby, review the effect of the cyber terrorism and violence on the fashion in sub-cultural terms. Some researchers distinguish psychedelic styles from cyberdelic ones to assume such psychiatric visions as psychedelic fashion characterized by resistance and delinquency-cyber punk fashion, cyber hippie fashion, cyborg fashion- and then, define them all as cyber resistant culture fashion or as a sub-cultural style of the cyber culture. As a result, it was found that human bodies are being encoded with the networks, various cyber characters or avatars are emerging, while human bodies are being distorted or exaggerated with human beings and machines being imploded.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.22 no.4
• /
• pp.115-125
• /
• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.17 no.4
• /
• pp.626-639
• /
• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.