• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-29
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• 2020

This study aimed to produce fiber stretch sensors for smart soccer socks to prevent injuries during training. A sensor was manufactured with stretchable fabric and tested to ensure convenience during training. In order to manufacture the fiber stretch sensor, a CNT dispersion solution was applied to an e-band and elastic polyester fabric, and the performance of the sensors was evaluated by a tensile test. Performance evaluation showed that both of the tested fabrics are excellent for this purpose. Both sensors were attached to socks to create prototype wearable devices, and an experiment was conducted to determine whether a resistance change accompanying relaxation and contraction of the gastrocnemius muscle could be detected. In order to accurately evaluate performance as a sensor, the fabric was stretched 20 times at low speeds of 1 Hz and 0.5 Hz. A change in resistance due to tension was observed, with both the E-band and the stretchable poly fabric showing high sensitivity and high reproducibility. Both can be used as relaxation/contraction sensors. Smart soccer socks were made using the two materials, and an evaluation was conducted. Tensile tests were done on the smart soccer socks; the tests were done 20 times per sock, and the sensor showed a stable resistance change between 30 and 40 ohms depending on the tension of the sensor. As a result, we confirmed that smart soccer socks with stretch sensors made of E-bands can measure changes in the gastrocnemius muscle.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.8
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• pp.203-218
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• 2004

Recently, knitted materials are used more often than ever before in fashion. Therefore it is necessary to study their application into garment patterns. The purpose of this study was to develop a system by which the tensile property of knitted fabrics can be applied. In this study, 5 different distribution methods of tensile property were tested on 2 sample fabrics which have a lower and higher tensile property than moderate-stretch. The subjects were five women within an age range from 18 to 24 who showed average body figures. The major findings derived from this investigation were as follows; The 4th method was regarded as the most valid. The 4th method was fixed proportional alteration based on the reduction amount of bust girth, i.e. front (back) width and shoulder width reduced by 60％ of the bust girth reduction and neck point reduced by 28％ of the bust girth reduction. When the reduction was based on the proportion of the actual measurements, the alteration was too severe, so that the armhole curve was changed into a very uncomfortable curve.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.77-84
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• 1998

As a result of surveying the process for sewing, the problems involving the outlook of sewn apparels were error off the standard dimensions and uneven sizes, which verifies the need for urgent technological guidance and development. On the other hand, the majority of the businesses were operating their sewing machines at the speed of 2,000 rpm or higher. Such a conventional working method may not well reflect the properties of the stretch fabrics, causing poorer quality products. Moreover, most of the businesses were using the ball-point needles which should be replaced with appropriate ones for stretch fabric. The types of feed dog which were used most were Drop feed, Union feed, Confound feed, Differential feed in their oder. Anyway, the automatized dog should urgently replace these inefficient ones for stretch fabric. Meanwhile, the types of presser foot which were used most were Plain foot, Teflon foot, Roller foot, Ring foot in their order, which also necessitates their replacement which Teflon foot. 2. As a result of surveying the process for finishing and inspection, while the causes scores less than 3 points, those due to pressers scored more than 3 points. This results suggests that a technological guidance is needed for the pressing work. Lastly, the causes of defect due to poor outlook attributable to such notions as button or zipper and those due to the uneven sizes scored more than 3 points, which suggests that the entire of needle works should be reformed through scientific research and technological guidance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.642-649
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• 2010

This study was designed to generate briefs pattern for women in their twenties using 3D parametric body model. 151 women in their 20's were random sampled and measured using Martine's anthropometry. And one subject was chosen as the representative subject for 3D scanning. Parametric model was generated of using CATIA P3, Unigraphics NX4.0, Rapidform 2006. And the 3D surface of parametric body model was flattened onto the 2D plane. 3 downscale ratios(0%, 10%, 15%) were applied to generated pattern to figure out what downscale ratio was suitable to make briefs with stretch fabric. 4 kinds of experimental briefs were made with stretch fabrics(0%, 10%, 15% downscale) and worn on the dressform. Subjective evaluation on the appearance was done and the data was analyzed by ANOVA with post-hoc test. Briefs pattern was generated through the process of flattening the parametric surface and arranging the patches to make briefs pattern by dart manipulation. The different ration of outline and area between 3D surface and 2D pattern were 0.22% and 0.09% respectively. It showed that a parametric model could provide a desirable pattern with minute size error. The results of subjective evaluation on the appearance of 4 experimental briefs showed that stretch briefs with 15% downscale ratio was evaluated most highly in most items. Findings imply that it is feasible to apply 3D parametric model to generate patterns for various items considering various fabric properties.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1982

This experiment was made on the basis of the general observation that silk fabrics is flaccid in sun light. The purpose of this test is to examine efficiency between the processed thread and the unprocessed one after putting the later under the xenon-lit system, which produces continuous spectrum of bright white beam similar to sun light. (i) Color division of silk thread : white, yellow blue (ii) light division and irradiation time : sun lightlongrightarrow210 hrs, Xenonlongrightarrow50,100, 150 hrs. Under the above conditions each object was be tested with and extensometer, TENSILON Type III for the results of (a) the weight-expansibility curve of the silk thread (b) the relationship between cutting in tensity and maximum, weight (c) maximum expansion rate (d) the expansion energy of the tested silk thread (e) the beginning pull-stretch resistance rate of the tested silk thread (f) color difference after processing The results are illustrated in the appropriate tables and figures. Consequently the generalobservation that silk fabrics is flaccid is relevant only in terms of color. So for as Cutting-intensaty is concerned, it turned out to be less flaccid than in color. On the contrary when the untested silk thread was conpared with the xenon-irradiated ones, the latter proved itself to be more flaccid in cutting expansibility than the former. We have learned through this experiment that, after the all rounds of this test, the color tone and chroma of the colored materials remained without significant change, where as their color value changed to a large extent.

• Journal of Korean Living Environment System
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.533-540
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• 2017

This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.191-203
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to present a making method of jeans pattern with high fitness after deriving the appropriate shrinkage rate by material and washing process. According to the result of the exterior evaluation of test jeans, all 6 jeans were rated high with scores close to 3.5. Following the evaluation of satisfaction of usage by physical movement, the highest ranking was in the order of walking with normal steps, back bending $90^{\circ}$, chair sitting, climbing stairs and squatting. The shrinkage rate by physical area showed the highest score in the order of pants length, waist circumference, thigh circumference, knee circumference, hem circumference, hips circumference. In addition, the shrinkage rate was higher in warp direction than weft direction after washing finishing. As for the result of addition and reduction of pattern measurements by parts of jeans, waist circumference was $3.1{\sim}5.1cm$, hips circumference was $-1.2{\sim}4.2cm$, thigh circumference was $-0.9{\sim}3.1cm$ and pants length was $3.4{\sim}6.1cm$. That is, this results showed a wide range of addition and reduction according to material and washing finishing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.38-45
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• 2009

First of all, the properties imparted to PET fabrics are resistance to and recovery from creasing or wrinkling when wet or dry; high resistance to stretch in the filament yarns but not in the staple; high abrasion resistance; good texture and appearance; resistance to heat ageing; good chemical resistance and good resistance, behind glass, to sunlight. But, the low moisture regain of PET fabric conduces to static troubles in textile processing. Furthermore, garments made from PET may, during wear, develop electric charges which attract to the fabric particles of soil(dirt, swarf, dust) flying in the air, so that the cuffs of shirts, for example, become soiled quickly and are not easily laundered clean. The sericin constitutes 25$\sim$30％ of silk protein and surrounds the fibroin fiber with sticky layer that supports the formation of a cocoon. The useful biochemical properties of sericin protein are oxidation resistant, antibacterial, UV resistant, hydrophilic property, and good affinity with hydrophobic material. These properties can be used as an improving reagent or a coating agent for natural and synthetic fibers, fabrics, and other intermediate products. The sericin is also applied to cross-link, and can be blended with other materials. In this study, we modified the surface of PET fabric by mixture of sericin finishing agent; sericin, polyuretane binder and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA) cross-link agent. Also, we investigated the finshing effect; moisture regain, stiffness, handle, drape and electrostatic. The moisture regain of PET fabric treated with sericin finishing agent was higher than that of untreated PET fabric. As a result of evaluating influence about handle of PET fabrics treated with sericin finishing agent, it was confirmed that the sericin finishing agent could be use as a linen like finishing agent.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.594-603
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• 2012

This study aimed to investigate a bias pattern making method with geometrical approach. The bias-cut dress has soft silhouette of drape in the garment. However, the bias cut dress has problem of satisfying the intended garment size spec. This problem occurs from various sources. The main reason is that the bias-cut fabric tends to stretch on longitudinal direction and to shrink horizontal direction when it was hung on the body. The goal of this study was to develop a bias-cut dress pattern making method satisfying the intended garment size spec. The researchers developed the geometrical method of measuring dimensional change by calculating the compensation ratio of the fabric in true bias direction. The compensation ratio was calculated by applying draping ratio of the fabric. Three types of fabrics were used in the experiment. The warp and weft crossing angle of fabric was ranged from $78^{\circ}$ to $82^{\circ}$. The fabrics stretched longitudinally 6.9~9.9% and shrank horizontally 7.2~11.0%. The compensation ratio of the bias-cut pattern for sample dress was calculated for each fabric type. Two types of experimental bias-cut dress patterns were developed for each fabric. One pattern was made with applying full compensation ratio and the other one made with applying partial ratio of the fabric. Experimental dresses were made with these patterns. The results of the evaluation showed that the bias-cut dress pattern applying the partial compensation ratio was more appropriate than the pattern applying the full compensation ratio.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.203-212
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective perception of textures, sensibilities, and preference among consumers. This study, then, aimed to provide useful information with respect to planning and designing knitted fabrics by predicting the subjective characteristics analyzed according to their structural properties. For this purpose, we employed statistical analysis tools, such as factor and regression analysis and an adaptive-network-based fuzzy inference system(ANFIS), thereby combining the merits of fuzzy and neural networks and presupposing a non-linear relationship. Through factor analysis, we also categorized the subjective textures into 'roughness', 'softness', 'bulkiness' and 'stretch-ability' with R2=70.32%: and categorized the sensibilities into 'Stable/Neat', 'Natural/Comfortable' and 'Feminine/Elegant' with R2=68.12%. We analyzed subjective textures, sensibilities, and preference with ANFIS, assuming non-linear relationships; consequently, we were able to generate three or four fuzzy rules using wool/rayon fiber content and loop length as input data. The textures of roughness and softness exhibited a linear relationship, but other subjective characteristics demonstrated a non-linear input-output relationship. Compared with linear regression analysis, the ANFIS exhibited had higher predictive power with respect to predicting subjective characteristics.