• 대한수의학회지
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• 제31권3호
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• pp.319-327
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• 1991

Gingko biloba is one of the oldest trees on earth. It can be traced 300 million years or more into past. In recent years, this tree has become increasingly popular because of its longevity. Amount of comsumption of Gingko leaves in Korea is increased to produce drugs for blood circulating system's disorder. The workers who work at the company of product drug with Gingko leaves complain pruritus at belt position of west, however toxic substance from extracts of Gingko biloba was carried out to determine what kind of the toxic substance from extract could induce a contact dermatitis by means of histopathological study. Dried leaves of Korean G. biloba were exhaustively extracted with chloroform. The aqueous chloroform residue was extracted with hexane. After evaporation, the hexane extract was passed through a silica gel column chromatography, it was separated into 9 fractions by means of gradient solvent (benzene: acetone/ 98~93 : 2~7%). The 4th and 7th fraction were idendified as bilibol and gingkolic acid by silica gel thin layer chromatography and NMR spectrophotometer. The 4th and 7th fractions of Korean Gingko leaves have an irritant substances which can be induced ear swelling and increased thickness of stratum cornium of rabbit ear exposed with the fractions (3 time/3 day, $100{\mu}l$ of 50mg/ml ethyl alcohol). In the 4th fraction, the substance have induced the surface of ear to swell and mass of unknown cell like inflammatory cell were infiltrated within the stratum corneum, and the 7th fraction have the surface of ear to loss the hairs, and sebaceous gland and follicle of hair were infiltrated with inflammatory cells. and other fractions at all did not induced a certain contact dermatitis and also Deutschen drug of Gingko (named as Gerigeron) have induced the contact dermatitis such as dematitis of Korean Gingko extract.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.108-114
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• 1997

The skin permeation study has two meanings in cosmetics. One is how to promote the skin permeation of active meterials for improving their bioavailabilities and the other is how to decrease it of irritants for reducing their skin side effects. In this study, we selected methyl paraben, one of the preservatives, as a model irritant and tried to reduce the skin irritation by the decrease of skin permeation. Furthermore, the relationship between skin permeation and skin primary irritation was discussed. For in vitro skin permeation experiments, Franz type diffusion cells and the excised skin of female hairless mouse from 8 weeks old were used. The donor compartment was charged with oil only or O/W emulsion containing 0.3% MP. We selected 19 oils, including esters, triglycerides, plant oils, hydrocarbons, and alchols, which are broadly used in cosmetics. We evaluated with female guinea pig. The skin permeahility of MP from the oils showed following order: ester oils > triglycerides > plant oils > hydrocarbons > alcohols. We considered that this result was based on the different effect of each oil on the barrier function of stratum corneum. In O/W emulsion containing each oil, the skin permeability of MP decreased as the oil/water partition coefficient of MP increased. The skin primary irritation increased as the skin permeability of MP increased. In conclusion, we suggest that the skin irritation could be reduced by the decrease of skin permeability of MP, which may be obtained by the good selection of oils in cosmetic preparations.

• 한국근적외분광분석학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국근적외분광분석학회 2001년도 NIR-2001
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• pp.3115-3115
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• 2001

In this study, portable near infrared (NIR) system was newly integrated with a photodiode array detector, which has no moving parts and this system has been successfully applied for evaluation of human skin moisture. The good correlation between NIR absorbance and absolute water content of separated hairless mouse skin was, in vitro, showed depending on the water content (7.42-84.94%) using this portable NIR system. Partial least squares (PLS) regression was used for the calibration with the 1100-1650 nm wavelength range. For the practical use for the evaluation of human skin based on moisture, PLS model for human skin moisture was, in vivo, developed using the portable NIR system based on the relative water content values of stratum corneum from the conventional capacitance method. The PLS model showed a good correlation. This study indicated that the portable NIR system could be a powerful tool for human skin moisture, which may be much more stable to environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity, compared to conventional methods. Furthermore, in order to confirm the performance of newly integrated portable NIR system, scanning type conventional NIR spectrometer was used in the same experiments and the results were compared.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제26권2호
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• pp.99-103
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• 1996

Effects of glycerin and PEG 400 in donor and receptor solutions upon skin permeation of drug were investigated. Deoxycortisone was used as a model compound. In vitro skin permeation study with freshly excised hairless mouse skin was performed and the steady-state skin permeation rates of the drug were determined in different fractions of glycerin or PEG 400 in donor and receptor solutions. Glycerin in donor solution didn't show any effect on the skin permeation rate of deoxycortisone. However glycerin in receptor solution showed significant effect on the skin permeation rate of the drug. In glycerin, there's a critical concentration for balancing hydration and dehydration of skin. At low concentration, less than 20 %, glycerin showed the enhancement of the flux due to the hydration effect of skin. At high concentration, more than 30 %, glycerin retard the permeation rate which might be due to the dehydration effect on the dermis layer. Since dermis has more water content than the stratum corneum, the steady state skin permeation rates were more influenced when glycerin was in receptor solution than that of in donor solution. PEG 400 aqueous solutions doesn't affect the steady state permeation rate of deoxycortisone significantly.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• 제24권3호spc1호
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• pp.41-47
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• 1994

The effect of Azone and ethanol on the electrical properties of human and hairless mouse skin was studied and the results were compared. The complex electrical impedance was measured as a function of frequency, and resistance and capacitance were determined from Nyquist plot. After the treatment of human-heat separated epidermis with Azone, contrary to the expectation, resistance increased about 60% and it did not change with time. Capacitance also increased; immediately after the treatment, it was about 110% of pretreatment value and it increased further with time. On the other hand, when hairless mouse skin was treated with Azone, marked changes occured; resistance fell almost to the value of bathing medium itself and capacitance increased to about 200% of its pretreatment value. Similar result were obtained when hairless mouse skin was treated with 100% ethanol. The results suggest that there are differences in the strength of barrier properties of stratum corneum (SC) between human and hairless mouse skin. Overall, the results provide further mechanistic insight into ion conduction through the skin and into the role of SC lipids in skin capacitance.

• 한국응용과학기술학회지
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.43-48
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• 2000

Drug delivery system(DDS) applied to various fields, such as medicine, cosmetics, agriculture and necessities of life. Among these application fields, DDS is often used as the method of drug dosage into the epidermic skin. We investigated characters of transdermal therapeutic system(TTS) and the skin permeability of that with applying DDS. Chitosan was selected as material of TTS. We investigated the permeation of chitosan ointment containing drug in rat skin using horizontal membrane cell model. Permeation properties of materials were investigated for water-soluble drug such as riboflavin in vitro. We used glycerin, PEG 600 and oleic acid as enhancers. Since dermis has more content water(hydration) than the stratum corneum, skin permeation rate at steady state was highly influenced when glycerin was used in water-soluble drug. The permeation rate of content enhancer and drug was found to be faster than that of content water-soluble drug only. These results showed that skin permeation rate of drug across the composite was manly dependent on the property of ointment base and drug. Proper selection of the polymeric materials which resemble and enhance properties of the delivering drug was found to be important in controlling the skin permeation rate.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.98-141
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• 2003

Lip chapping is a serious cosmetics problem, though remedies other than moisturizing have not been proposed. We investigated changes in the surface configurations of lip corneocytes and increased CD activity and improved chapping severity. Our results suggest that lip chapping can be activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases associated with lip chapping. Using scanning electron microscopy, villus-like projections were observed on the inner surfaces of most corneocytes from normal lips, whereas those with flatter surface were predominant in chapped lips. Further, cell surface area increased with the severity of lip chapping. Cathepsin D (CD)-like and chymotrypsin-like proteinase, which are also present in skin as desquamation-regulating proteinases, were detected in lip corneocytes, though only CD activity was found to decrease in severely chapped lips. Hydration was also lower in areas of lip chapping. Sequential topical application of apricot extract essence characterized as similar to senile xerosis rather than dry skin such as winter xerosis, as it shows a delayed transition of corneocytes through the stratum corneum, and the reduced CD activity may be one of the mechanisms that is further decreased by low hydration. We propose that an enhancement of both CD activity and lip moisture may be effective to improve lip chapping.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.570-577
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• 2003

The importance of cornified envelope (CE)-bound lipids to epidermal barrier function is increasingly being recognized. In the present study, we intentionally damaged the cornified layer of hairless mice by ultraviolet irradiation and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) treatment, and assessed the changes in epidermal barrier function by measuring Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). We also measured changes in the amount of CE-bound lipids using thin layer chromatography (TLC). The results showed that both treatments increased TEWL and decreased CE-bound lipids (omega-hydroxy cerami de and omega-hydroxy acid). In addition, investigation of the chronological changes in TEWL revealed an inverse relationship between TEWL and CE-bound lipids, and a correlation between CE-bound lipids and epidermal barrier function. We then measured the amount of CE-bound lipids in the cheek and the medial side of the upper arm in humans. The results showed that because the cheek receives external stimulation on a daily basis, the amount of CE-bound lipids was significantly lower, while the level of TEWL was higher. These observations, together with those from the animal study, indicate that CE-bound lipids are related to epidermal barrier function.

• 대한화장품학회:학술대회논문집
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• 대한화장품학회 2003년도 IFSCC Conference Proceeding Book I
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• pp.457-468
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• 2003

Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.

• 대한화장품학회지
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• 제33권4호
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• pp.227-230
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• 2007

최근 기능성화장품과 피부관련 의약품 분야에서 multi-lamellar와 liquid crystal의 구조가 커다란 관심을 끌고 있다. 결합수와 고정된 유상을 함유하는 multi-lamellar 구조는 피부의 세포간지질의 lamellar 구조의 재건과 보습을 유지하는 작용으로써 보습기능이나 장벽기능의 복구에 우수하며, 이 지질들은 각질층에 침투하여 유지된다. 본 연구에서 고급 지방 알코올, 레시틴, 콜레스테롤을 사용하여 제조한 bio-mimic liquid crystal emulsion (BLCE)의 피부장벽 기능을 측정하였고 일반적인 계면활성제와 세포독성을 비교하였다.