• Title/Summary/Keyword: storm waves

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Coastal erosion and countermeasures of Oahu Island (오아후섬 연안 침식 현상과 대책)

  • Dong-Yoon Yang;Min Han
    • The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.31-42
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    • 2017
  • Oahu Island is the third largest island of the Hawaiian chain which located in the northern hemisphere close to the center of the Pacific Ocean and is affected by storms and tsunamis in the northern and southern hemispheres. High-wave and high-energy waves are concentrated in the winter and summer, and the Oahu Coast is always in an active erosion environment. These natural effects are likely to become more severe with global warming and sea level rise. In addition, as the anthropogenic factors, there was indiscreet flood of development on the coast until the 1972 coastal management law was enacted. However, the present coastal erosion phenomenon was not serious than thought. The cause can be found in the improvement of the coastal management of the provincial government. The Hawaiian government is no longer applying this method, which was built prior to the enactment of the Coastal Control Act, due to increased erosion and side effects at other sites. So, in Hawaii, it is mainly applied to soft revetment methods such as supplying sand or making artificial sand dunes as an erosion prevention method. In Korea, there are some places where the soft revetment method is applied partially, but it is mainly composed of hard revetment structure.

Numerical Simulation on Seabed-Structure Dynamic Responses due to the Interaction between Waves, Seabed and Coastal Structure (파랑-지반-해안구조물의 상호작용에 기인하는 해저지반과 구조물의 동적응답에 관한 수치시뮬레이션)

  • Lee, Kwang-Ho;Baek, Dong-Jin;Kim, Do-Sam;Kim, Tae-Hyung;Bae, Ki-Seong
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.49-64
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    • 2014
  • Seabed beneath and near the coastal structures may undergo large excess pore water pressure composed of oscillatory and residual components in the case of long durations of high wave loading. This excess pore water pressure may reduce effective stress and, consequently, the seabed may liquefy. If the liquefaction occurs in the seabed, the structure may sink, overturn, and eventually fail. Especially, the seabed liquefaction behavior beneath a gravity-based structure under wave loading should be evaluated and considered for design purpose. In this study, to evaluate the liquefaction potential on the seabed, numerical analysis was conducted using 2-dimensional numerical wave tank. The 2-dimensional numerical wave tank was expanded to account for irregular wave fields, and to calculate the dynamic wave pressure and water particle velocity acting on the seabed and the surface boundary of the structure. The simulation results of the wave pressure and the shear stress induced by water particle velocity were used as inputs to a FLIP(Finite element analysis LIquefaction Program). Then, the FLIP evaluated the time and spatial variations in excess pore water pressure, effective stress and liquefaction potential in the seabed. Additionally, the deformation of the seabed and the displacement of the structure as a function of time were quantitatively evaluated. From the analysis, when the shear stress was considered, the liquefaction at the seabed in front of the structure was identified. Since the liquefied seabed particles have no resistance force, scour can possibly occur on the seabed. Therefore, the strength decrease of the seabed at the front of the structure due to high wave loading for the longer period of time such as a storm can increase the structural motion and consequently influence the stability of the structure.

Characteristics of Recent Foraminifera and Surface Sediments in Gomso- Bay Tidal Flat, West Coast of Korea: Potential for Paleoenvironmental Interpretations (곰소만 조간대의 현생 유공충과 표층 최적물의 특성: 고환경 해석에 적용 가능성)

  • 우한준;장진호
    • 한국해양학회지
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    • v.30 no.3
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    • pp.184-196
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    • 1995
  • The line-SW is located in the mouth of Gomso Bay (20 Km long and 5-8 Km wide),west coast of Korea. This area is composed of sand flat, mud flat, sand shoal and chenier, The difference of physical, geological and geomorphic conditions in subenvironments of the bay may control and produce distingtive foraminiferal populations and assemblages. This study investigates whether five a priori subenvironments (five local zonations) in Gomso-Bay tidal flat can be distinguished from each other on the basis of total (living plus dead) foraminiferal assemblages. Seventy-four species (67 benthic; 7 planktonic) were recorded in total assemblages of surface sediments from 10 stations. Ammonia beccarii tepida, Discorbis candeiana, Elphidium etigoense and Eponides nipponicus were most dominant species in living and total assemblages. The relative abundance (%) of living population was high at upper flat and decreased from upper to lower flat. The low percentages of living populations in middle to lower flat are probably influenced by the decreasing reproduction of foraminifera caused by high energy condition and addition of dead species from offshore. The occurence of planktonic foraminifera in middle to lower flat (5.3∼6.6%) indicates introduction of planktonic foraminifera from offshore by storm and/or tidal current. The relatively high numbers of species in lower middle to lower flat are probably caused by a mixing of faunas from these areas and offshore. The high numbers of total individuals per 50 ml of sediment in upper flat indicate that this area is a relatively stable environment where waves and currents are protected by the chenier. Five biofacies of the total foraminiferal assemblages were established on the basis of dominant species (those representing more than 20% of the total assemblages in any station) in the five a priori subenvironments recognized along the Line-SW transect in Gomso-Bay tidal flat. Five biofacies are potentially useful in paleoenvironmental interpretation in late Quaternary Gomso-Bay tidal deposits.

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Sedimentary Characteristics and Evolution History of Chenier, Gomso-Bay tidal Flat, Western Coast of Korea (황해 곰소만 조간대에 발달한 Chenier의 퇴적학적 특성과 진화)

  • 장진호;전승수
    • 한국해양학회지
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.212-228
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    • 1993
  • A chenier, about 860 m long, 30 to 60 m wide and 0.6∼1.6 m high, occurs on the upper muddy tidal flat in the Gomso bay, western coast of Korea, It consists of medium to fine sands and shells with small amounts of subangular gravels. Vertical sections across the chenier show gently landward dipping stratifications which include small-scale cross-bedded sets. the most probable source of the chenier is considered to be the intertidal sandy sediments. Vibracores taken along a line transversing the tidal flat reveal that the intertidal sand deposits are more than 5 m thick near the low-water line and become thinner toward the chenier. The most sand deposits are undertrain by tidal muds which occur behind the chenier as salt marsh deposits. C-14 age dating suggests that the sand deposits and the chenier are younger than about 1,800 years B.P. The chenier has originated from the intertidal sand shoals at the lower to mid sand flat, and has continuously moved landward. A series of aerial photographs (1967∼1989) reveal that intertidal sand shoals (predecessor of the western part of chenier) on the mid flat have continuously moved landward during the past two decades and ultimately attached to the eastern part of the chenier already anchored at the present position in the late 1960s. Repeated measurements (four times between 1991 and 1992) of morphological changes of the chenier indicate that the eastern two thirds of the chenier, mostly above the mean high water, has rarely moved whereas the western remainder below the mean high water, has moved continuously at a rate of 0.5 m/mo during the last two years (1991∼1992). This displacement rate has been considerably accelerated up to 1.0 m/mo in winter, and during a few days of typhoon in the summer of 1992 the displacement amounted to about 8∼11 m/mo for the entire chenier. these facts suggest that macro-tidal currents, coupled with winter-storm waves and infrequent strong typhoons, should play a major role for the formation and migration of chenier after 1,800 B.P., when the sea level already rose to the present position and thereafter remained constant.

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