• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.7
• /
• pp.45-56
• /
• 2014

Embroidery is called 'Ja-Su' in Korea. The purpose of this study is to present a method that utilizes the technology of traditional Korean embroidery to get a genuine feeling of tradition. This study was conducted in the following manner: first, Previous researches and references were used survey traditional embroidery techniques. Second, by using traditional embroidery techniques, the study attempted to develop a design of embroidery household Items with modern sense and practicality. The results of this study are as follows: This study has developed and produced embroidery household items that can be used in modern life by using traditional embroidery techniques. A total of 10 kinds of miscellaneous everyday life utensils and interior pieces were produced. Materials used in the embroidery production were made out of natural fabrics, such as cotton (Kwang-Mok, Mu-Myung), linen, cotton thread were used for a practical reason for practical reasons (i.e. being easily washable). Embroidery techniques used in this study were straight stitch, outline stitch, satin stitch, separate stitch, french knot stitch, long&short stitch, brick stitch, chain stitch, couching stitch, Pad stitch, and pine-leaf stitch. In order to further develop traditional embroidery, a technique passed down from the ancestors, it needs to change to become more suitable for modern life while maintaining the tradition.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.1
• /
• pp.131-144
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to examine the type of stitch and designs of knitwears using handcraft ornament techniques. This paper will also go on to develop and merchandize high value generated by design development. Knit is largely divided into weft knit stitch and warp knit stitch which are respectively woven by weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine. For clothing, circular knit and flat knit are frequently used while plain stitch, rib stitch and purl stitch are perceived as the basic stitches. Denbigh stitch, cord stitch, atlas stitch, which belong to tricot stitch, are the basic of warp knit stitch. There are also numerous fancy fabrics adapting the previously mentioned stitches and these are made into solid pattern and yarn dyed pattern. The handcraft ornament techniques in knitwears design are embroidery, beads, sequin, stone, printing, applique and fringe, etc. By applying these techniques thus creative expression, which cannot be expressed in other fashion items, is feasible. The women's knitwears are tries by mixed and various techniques, develope to high value knitwears, escaping from simple and practical items.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.10 no.1
• /
• pp.1-19
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the social and cultural background of hand-knitting things with handcraft feeling which is appeared conspicuously after 2000. And to analyze the types and characteristics of hand-knit design. The resorts of this study is as follows: First, it is found that the pattern of stitch in their forms and ornament technique of handcraft feeling are the remarkable factors to decide the specific designs in the most of hand-knit designs. The major forms are plain stitch, rib stitch, cable stitch, lace stitch, relief stitch and pile stitch and the ornament techniques such as patch work, fringe, embroidery and collage are being widely used. Second, after 2000, due to peoples' preference for handcraft feeling manufactures, pursuit trend of artless luxury by retouch appeared, it made feeling for recurrence of the past and the warm humanity. In addition, the pro-eco trend using pro-environment materials and capturing the nature as images are on its way to advance. Through the mix & match of materials, details and items, it becomes possible to express many kinds of images. Thanks to those characteristics, the hand-knit designs are now acknowledged as luxurious with the couture sense attached and are shaking off their previous image of recycling.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.37
• /
• pp.149-162
• /
• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.10-20
• /
• 2010

In this research, by yearly subdividing and analyzing the characteristic of the embroidery design according to the garment item with a season the high value added is raised for a differencing and high performance conversion of the high fashion design and there is an object. In 2004, when the total 474 chapter was selected in S/S season till F/W season in 2008 and the embroidery design characteristic according to the kind of an item the analyzing method and statistical method was used. As to the first, and the embroidery design in which it follows of the garment item showed the stylized, and the plant motive of the geometric pattern by an edge and composite arrangement in an one-piece and blouse with the satin stitch and cut work technique. A monotone and the bright tone were used. The second, and the season different difference, the out line stitch, an applique, and the cut work technique S/S season were a feature. A plant, and the animal motive were expressed as the front arrangement and the monotone of the achromatic color appeared. As to F/W season, the long short stitch and satin stitch techniques were with the characteristic profit. The abstract motive showed up as the edge alignment and composite arrangement. And the plain tone and the monotone of the chromatics combination color are used. In the third, and the chronological difference, an applique the embroidery technique showed up in the out line stitch, and 2007 years in 2004 years and 2006 years. And the sentence motive of the animal, and the abstract motive the embroidery motive are embossed in 2005 years and 2006 years in 2008 years.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.562-570
• /
• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.49-58
• /
• 2016

In modern society, designers started feeling moral and social responsibility in the aspect of environment as a position of suggesting something new. Rather than creating another waste to make something innovative, the concept of Upcycling which is about adding design or utilization to the existing recyclable materials to raise their value to products or art works has started settling down. Among them, there have been various researches on the use of offcut waste to be dumped. Such use of waste can be found in Jogakbo (patchwork), one of our traditional boudoir crafts. This could be connected to the concept of the modern Upcycling in the aspect of giving new values to the wasted pieces of fabric through needlework. Therefore, this study suggested Stitch work as new Upcycling furniture by seeking for the common connections between Upcycling and traditional Jogakbo, and then reinterpreting them in the same viewpoint. It was an opportunity not only to rediscover 'the esthetics of waste' by changing the awareness of 'behavior of dumping', but also to reinterpret or reconsider the tradition. Based on this, it is expected to continuously have new attempts to use offcut waste for eco-friendly design in the future, and also to have opportunities to seek for new directions of Upcycling to rediscover new values through the revaluation of valuelessness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2019

This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.55 no.6 s.96
• /
• pp.109-124
• /
• 2005

The object of this study was to identify the production technique and immediate constituent of lingerie by examining the materials and the sewing techniques. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of lingerie are analyzed based on photographical materials. From the late 20C century to the present time was the research time period. This paper concludes as follows: 1 Decorative method: Lace, Ribbons, piping, elastic bands were some of the decorative materials attached to the garments by zigzag stitch. 2. Flat pattern making: Lingerie patterns were drafted in smaller size than the patterns of outer garments. Bias cut would be applied for the noll-stretchable fabrics. 3. Draping: Bias grain would be applied for the non-stretch fabric. When draping stretch fabrics, follow the grain line of the fabrics and pull the fabric so that it could fit onto the body. 4. Production technique: Straight stitch would be applied for non-stretch fabrics. Zigzag stitch would be applied for stretch fabrics.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.3
• /
• pp.61-71
• /
• 2008

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.