• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.149-159
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• 2009

The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.77-88
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• 2007

A micromechanics-based model to simulate the elastic and elastic-plastic behavior of granular soils is developed. The model accounts for the fabric anisotropy represented by the statistical parameter of the spatial distribution of contact normals, the evolution of fabric anisotropy as a function of stress ratio, the continuous change of the co-ordination number relating to the void ratio, and the elastic and elastic-plastic microscopic contact stiffness. Using the experimental data for metallic materials, the elastic-plastic contact stiffness is derived as a power function of the normal contact force as well as the contact force initiating the yielding of contact bodies. To quantitatively assess microscopic model parameters, approximate solutions of cross-anisotropic elastic moduli are derived in terms of the micromechanical parameters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.79-88
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• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.220-228
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• 2010

This study examines the scouring effect of pectinase on ramie fabric and influence of sodium sulfate as an activator for pectinase. The scouring effects were measured by the weight loss and pectin contents. SEM, weight loss, stiffness, moisture regain and dye ability of ramie fabric teated with pectinase/sodium sulfate were also measured. When ramie fabrics were desized with $\alpha$-amylase, the optimum conditions were pH 6.5 at $60^{\circ}C$ for 80 min with 1%(o.w.f) $\alpha$-amylase concentration. When ramie fabrics were scoured with pectinase, the optimum conditions were pH 8.5 at $55^{\circ}C$ for 30 min with 10%(o.w.f) pectinase concentration. Addition of sodium sulfate improved enzyme activity significantly, which increased proportionally with increasing sodium sulfate concentration. When 50 g/l of sodium sulfate was added, the surface became cleaner compared to the enzyme treatment without salt: weight and tensile loss, moisture regain and dyeability of the treated fabrics increased, while pectin contents and stiffness decreased. Therfore, sodium sulfate was effective activator for the pectinase treatment of flax fiber.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1683-1689
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• 2006

Precedent researches on lyocell are mostly on lyocell structure, characteristics, physical properties by finishing and dyeability, and the like; there are little cases of researches on interlining for lyocell clothes production. To serve as a base information helpful to select fusible interlining and improve the efficiency of sewing process considering the characteristics of lyocell, this study performed t-est, F-test toward to the difference in the appearance-related properties and the mechanical properties of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric in accordance with the characteristics of fusible interlining and lyocell face fabric. This study reached following conclusions. Drapability and Crease recovery of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric are influenced by the structure of fusible interlining; stiffness of lyocell-interlining bonded fabric, by the structure of fusible interlining and the yam number of lyocell face fabric. WT is influenced by the mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric. RT is influenced by the yam number of lyocell face fabric; G, 2HG, 2HG5, by the structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining; B, HB, by the weight, structure(woven and non-woven) of fusible interlining, and yam number of lyocell face fabric; WC, by the weight, structure of fusible interlining; RC, by the structure of fusible interlining; thickness, by the weight of fusible interlining and the yarn number of lyocell face fabric; weight, by mixture rate and yam number of lyocell face fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.120-134
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• 2015

This study aimed to determine the physical properties of silk and nylon fabrics that are treated with persimmon juice in accordance with irradiation time of ultraviolet spectrum. Persimmon juice dyeing has the advantage of using the tannin component of the persimmon. Tannin plays an important role in inhibiting photodegradation of fibers or polymers. Among fibrous materials, silk and nylon are prone to deterioration by light. Hence, this study aimed to reduce these weaknesses of silk and nylon by applying persimmon juice treatment. We accordingly carried out investigation and experiments on ultraviolet irradiation, and physical characteristics of treated fabrics. The persimmon juice treatment process led to increased weight and thickness. In addition, the air permeability of silk fabric was increased, as compared to the control specimen; whereas, that of nylon fabric was decreased. Both drape stiffness and flex stiffness of silk and nylon tended to be high in textiles processed with persimmon juice treatment, as compared to the control textile. Peak load and elongation at peak load of untreated samples clearly decreased in both silk and nylon fabrics with the increase of ultraviolet irradiation time, while those of persimmon juice treated samples increased. Furthermore, ultraviolet blocking ratio measurement indicated that the fabric specimens treated with persimmon juice blocked U.V. spectrum better than the control specimen.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

Today, great percentage of apparel fabrics comprise knit products. A few apparel items are almost exclusively made from knit products including sweaters, T-shirts, lingerie, and hosiery. In weft knits, intermeshing yarn traverses the fabric crosswise. The production rate of knitting machines is about four times higher than that of conventional looms iin proportion to the amount of fabric produced per unit time. Knit apparels fabrics are noted for freedom of body movement, easy-care, resilience, soft draping and quality. The appearance of fabrics is of prime importance along with tactile features such as smoothness, crispness, stiffness when we deal with the handling evaluation of the textiles. In practice, the quality and performance of fabrics judged by sighted evaluators, and it is perhaps logical, in attempting to establish an effective fabric objective measurement system. It is worthwhile to make objective measurement that correlate well with subjective evaluations made by sight and touch together. However, it often imposes difficulties to effectively measure and analyze the appearance or optical properties of the textile surface features. In this study, an attempt is made to provide a preliminary approach to the analysis of the gloss property, which is one of the optical properties of fabrics. The specimens range from 70/24 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric to 70/68 nylon 6 filament yarn knit fabric, the latter being finer. A few three-dimensional models based on Peirce's model of knit stitch have been proposed and material properties were given to calculate the properties. Goniophotometric measurements of the specimens were also carried out.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.111-121
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• 2012

This study focused on the plane and side drape coefficients of weft knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure, stitch density, and stiffness. Fifteen weft knitted fabrics are produced with five different structures (interlock, single pique, royal interlock, cross miss interlock, and mock royal interlock) and three different gauges (7G, 10G, and 12G). Five knit structures were the application of knit, tuck, and miss stitch on the basis of interlock of the double knit fabric For this purpose, three-dimensional shapes of the draped sample were obtained by using a drapability tester which can record the contour line coordinates of a projected plane drape. Then, projected shapes of the plane and side drape were derived from those three-dimensional ones to review the relationship between plane drape coefficients and side ones. It was found that the theoretical values of plane and side drape coefficients depending on the change of deflection angles fit to their experimental ones. A5 a result of a regression analysis of the relationship between plane and side drape coefficients, the relationship could be expressed as $y=0.5838x-0.0065x^2+9.03{\times}10^{-5}x^3$. In case of mean of drape coefficient, it was increased according to the rule of that the more tuck and miss stitch overlap. A high degree of correlation was found between stiffness and drape coefficient. The regression equation of drape coefficient($y$) can be represented by $y=y=\sqrt[3]{Stiffness}-10.72$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.5 s.153
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• pp.699-710
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• 2006

The objective of this study was to identify the texture-related components of woven fabrics and to develop a multidimensional perceptual structure map to represent the tactile textures. Eighty subjects in clothing and tektite industries were selected for multivariate data on each fabric of 30 using the questionnaire with 9 pointed semantic differential scales of 20 texture-related adjectives. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, hierarchical cluster analysis, and multidimensional scaling(MDS) using SPSS statistical package. The results showed that the five factors were selected and composed of density/warmth-coolness, stiffness, extensibility, drapeability, and surface/slipperiness. As a result of hierarchical cluster analysis, 30 fabrics were grouped by four clusters; each cluster was named with density/warmth-coolness, surface/slipperiness, stiffness, and extensibility, respectively. By MDS, three dimensions of tactile texture were obtained and a 3-dimensional perceptual structure map was suggested. The three dimensions were named as surface/slipperiness, extensibility, and stiffness. We proposed a positioning perceptual map of fabrics related to texture naming system(TNS). To classify the textural features of the woven fabrics, hierarchical cluster analysis containing all the data variations, even though it includes the errors, may be more desirable than texture-related multidimensional data analysis based on factor loading values in respect of the effective variables reduction without losing the critical variations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.939-949
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• 2017

This study uses 3D printing technology to design and fabricate a fall impact protection pad with a spacer fabric structure. The design of the pads consists of hexagonal three-dimensional units connected in a honey-comb shape; in addition, the unit consists of a surface layer and a spacer layer. Protect pads were designed as either a hexagonal type or diamond type according to the surface layer structure; subsequently, a spacer filament was also designed as the most basic I-shape type. Designed pads were printed using four types of flexible filaments to select suitable material for a fall impact protection pad. Impact protection performance and bending stiffness were evaluated for the eight type of pad outputs. As a result of the impact protection performance evaluation, when the force of 6,500N was applied, the force passed through the pad was in the range of 1,370-2,132N. FlexSolid$^{(R)}$ and Skinflex$^{TM}$ showed good protection performance and cubicon flexible filament showed the lowest protection. NinjaFlex$^{(R)}$ was found to be the most flexible in the bending stiffness evaluation.