• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.581-595
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• 2006

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes are drawn from this study. Two types of costumes were designed for Faust. An old black shirt, grey checkered trousers, and a white gown were designed to express the old Faust, a respected scholar in his 50s, who was erudite and competent. Red checker of the shirt represented passion and blue checker of the shirt symbolized youth. The cotton trousers were beige, the most favorite color among male college students. For Mephistopheles, a white suit, black shirt, and white neck tie were designed to express the Devil, who changed his face instantly. A white suit symbolized that Mephistopheles looked like an angel, while a black shirt suggested that Mephistopheles, in reality, was the Devil. A white one-piece dress and light jade green cardigan were designed for Margarete, who was innocent and virtuous. The white dress represented innocence and purity of Margarete and the light jade green cardigan symbolized a maiden pure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.114-127
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• 2014

Performing arts offer fun and knowledge and are directed for various purposes. Performing arts are also used as a means for education. Children's English media musical, 'The Magic Flute' is the performance reflecting all these. The author of this study took part in stage costume production, and this study was carried out aiming at designing and producing stage costume in line with educational purpose and intention. This study consists of an analysis stage for the existing performances of 'The Magic Flute', and a stage costume design and production stage for children's English media musical, 'The Magic Flute', First, this study classified and analyzed the stage design and stage costume design of the existing 'The Magic Flute' by concept, and then, examined their features, respectively. and this study unfolded the stage costume concept, based on the analyses of existing performance's stage costume and the characters' personality and features described in the current study subject's script. As the last step of this study made each character's stage costume. A total of 69 costumes for stage costume were made for 7 types of characters. This study is considered to have huge significance in that the stage costume was developed for 'The Magic Flute'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.407-423
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze Bakst's stage costume illustrations for Ballets Russes. The Russian Ballets has renown in the West since the early 20th century. Diaghilev first made his name as the organizer of art exhibitions in Russia and Western Europe. Diaghilev risked presenting only ballets in 1909, that time Bakst designed $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu and Le Carnival. $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$ was something new which overwhelmed the French people by then. It was seen to be the achievement of Wagner's idea where all the elements; the music, the design, the choreography, and the dancing fused into a perfect whole. The entire production was a hitherto unseen harmony of colors, sounds and movements. For the 1911 season in Paris, Diaghilev planned to present six new ballets and Bakst designed four ballets. Bakst's design of the set and the costume greatly shocked the audience. His "Originality" shines on the fact that he introduced a palette of colors in theater for the first time in history. He used a magic of colors to suggest the secret meaning of what was happening on the stage. The results can be divided into three distinct characteristics. First, oriental designs such as $Cl{\acute{e}}op{\hat{a}}tre$, $Sch{\acute{e}}h{\acute{e}}razade$, L'Oiseau de Feu, La $P{\acute{e}}ri$ and Le Dieu Blue with Russian, Indian and Persian traditional design in headdress and accessories ars found. Second, Le Carnival and La Spectre de la Rose used romantic styles with oriental details. Third, Greek chiton and Himation are used in Narcisse, $H{\acute{e}}l{\grave{e}}ne$ de Sparte, $L'Apr{\grave{e}}s-Midi\;d^{\grave{\;}}un$ Faune and Daphnis et $Chlo{\acute{e}}$ inspirde with various colors and geometic patterns. Bakst's orient of lush colored costumes, head dress, cushions, rugs and hangings became the immediate fashion imitated by Parisian couture houses and interior decorators.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.655-663
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• 2012

Due to increased interest in character costumes, the field of animation character costume design is gradually developing into a specialized domain. The costume-making process for animation characters presents many differences from the costume-making process for regular apparel. However, there remains insufficient research on the actual process of making the character costumes used in stop motion videos both in Korea and abroad. The purpose of this study is to establish a costume design process for animation characters. Furthermore, this study presents a case study on the costume planning and making process for 3D stop motion animation characters. The character costume-making process was segmentalized into the following stages: character analysis stage, character modeling stage, and character costume making stage. In the character analysis stage, the investigator analyzed the character's movements, designed the character images, and analyzed the movements and motions of the animation characters. After completing character modeling, this study proposed a method for making the character costume. The style of the character costume was designed, and the structural design reflected the position and size of joints as well as the angle of movements. The patterns of the character costume were produced through dimensional tailoring after measuring the body size of the character. Afterward, the costume was completed after passing through the fitting and revision stages. The clothing material was selected to fit the colors and feelings shown in the illustration. To complete the costume after comparing it with the initial illustration, it was revised based on the assessment of its volume and overall atmosphere.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.4
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• pp.77-93
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the stage costumes of Michael Jackson, and how it was reflected in contemporary fashion. The study reviewed fashion related articles, book, journals, and online fashion sites in order to look at the stage costumes used by Michael Jackson from 1979 to 2001 from 'Off the wall' to 'Invincible'. The study examined the 2001 S/S~2016 S/S seasons of the world's 4 major $pr{\hat{e}}t$-${\acute{a}}$-porte collections to identify cases that used at least two fashion factors of Michael Jackson's style. The study result is as follows: First, Michael Jackson wore black tuxedoes with bow ties, ankle-length pants, white socks, black loafers, arm bands and other various accessories. Second, many of Jackson's fashion traits, such as military style golden embroidery detail and emblems, Brandenburgs, and also appeared in many collections. Third, Jackson's glitter style included spangle and cubic accessories, which were used along with hologram and metallic materials. Accessories, such as cubic gloves and socks, and fedoras were worn with the costume. Lastly, his diverse style, which included fencing shirts, letterman jacket and magic suits, can be found in different forms in modern fashion. Michael Jackson was one of the trendsetters in popular fashion in the 1970s~1990s, and continuously inspires fashion designers in the 21st century. In this aspect, the Michael Jackson style is deemed highly significant in the fashion history.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.156-161
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• 2010

To improve the standard of living of its citizens, local festivals is located in one axis of the new culture. These symptoms shows that there is increasing awareness of traditional culture such as Hanryu. The purpose of this study is to develope the presentative Dress of Andong International Maskdance Festival to stimulate curiosity and participate easily. 24 villages in Andong were present to represent appropriate Dress of Maskdance Festival which have been announced through the fashion show. The characteristics of the maskdance dress which presented in this study has the purpose of making the specialties of each village to tourism resources. Characteristics of the maskdance dress which designed to blend on the mask was as following. (1) Maskdance dress should shown well and must have strong durability of strenuous exercise in maskdance (2) Maskdance dress should be able to get the sympathy of the spectators. (3) Maskdance dress should be sympathetic as modern costumes. (4) Aesthetics as custumes and requirements as product must be met. (5) Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. (6) Maskdance dress is likely to require long-term use. (7) Maskdance dress must be able to accommodate a variety of body conditions. Through customer satisfaction survey of 158 spectators and 48 members of fashion show, the relevance of masks and costumes, aesthetic and motility of costumes, commercialization potential, especially costume' motility and functional fitness of clothing sizes was highly evaluated. So maskdance dress or stage costumes as long-term development is likely to be considered. And continued research is needed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.375-390
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• 2017

The aims of this research were to characterize magic realism by analyzing existing magical reality literature reviews and research and to identify material that may inspire ideas for stage and film costume design by analyzing and drawing design characteristics and magic realism of costumes from Director Tarsem Singh's movie, 'Mirror, Mirror'. For the methodology, characteristics of magic realism in literature and, movies were analyzed, with a theoretical consideration of these materials on magical realism. Data on costume design and magical realism characteristics for use in the analysis were collected from the main characters of 'Mirror, Mirror' as well as from other characters. The result of this analysis was the emergence of five common characteristics of the magic realism Historicity, the most remarkable characteristic seen in Tarsem Singh films, was expressed through the symbolic meaning and decorative patterns shown by the traditional-style costumes, colors. Symbolization was expressed through the symbolic meaning, decorative elements, and traditional clothes, as shown by the colors and forms of the costumes. Fantasy was expressed through the colors, decorative elements, forms of traditional clothing, and forms with symbolic meaning. Reproducibility was expressed through the method of decorative element, symbolic meaning, traditional forms and de-structural clothes. Ambiguity, which can be associated with the combined characteristics of historicity and fantasy, was expressed in the clothes worn in the scenes that confounded time and space within the film.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.133-145
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• 2010

The study used four basic formats classified based on the four principles on costumes discussed in the paper 'Human Beings and Arts Phenomena' by Oskar Schlemmer who studied the relationships between stage space and the human body as an analysis tool with regard to analyses on the abstraction of human body in contemporary dance costume. Abstraction of human body expressed in costume for contemporary dance is as follows: Expansions caused by unclear boundary between spaces and costumes, and the principles of three-dimensional abstract spaces based on a geometric cube change heads, trunks, arms and legs to achieve expansions. Similar mechanical shape is a type of shape made in a succession of functional principles of human body in relationships with spaces. As mechanical mechanism is added to the geometric transformation of a specific part of human body, mechanicalness is contained in it. Motion organisms are geometric simplification of moving traces in a space based on conversion into mechanical organisms based on principles of motion, and as mechanical rotation, consecutive speed caused by refraction and directionality are suggested, mobility is achieved. Immaterial shape is based on change into a metaphysical form, and it is converted into animals, plants or a third life that symbolize body parts. It has metaphysical significance in each body part and extends sensibility. As a result of the study, development into abstract succession and a techno art mode has been confirmed. Combination of geometric cubic figures with the organic human body and configuration of the human body pursued by Oskar Schlemmer's geometric abstraction through the proactive accommodation of mechanical aesthetics has been succeeded and expressed in the contemporary dance costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.