• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.5
• /
• pp.109-123
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine features of parts of Jikryung and relations among the features. Results of the study can be described as follows. 1. The short front and long rear of Jikryung was changed into the long front and long rear of the dress in the late 16th century. Kalgit of quasi-square style as double collar was changed into that of common collar in the late 16th century and then into common semi-circle collar in the early 17th century, when double Sup was also changed Into single Sup. Narrow sleeves of Jikryung were replaced by bean chaff-shaped in the late 16th century and then by wide ones in the early period of the next century. The shape of the side hem of Jikryung was changed from rectangle into trapezoid in the early 17th century Triangle-shaped Moo was changed into trapezoid-shaped one in the late 16th century and then again into triangle in the late 17th century 2. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung were made with them correlated. The collar of Jikryung saw change in its form from double to common as its width was reduced. Double Sup was changed into single one and the narrow, short coat string into the long one as Jikryung became a dress needing less adjustment. The sleeves widened as the length of whajang increased. The side hem of Jikryung saw change in its shape from rectangular to trapezoidal one as its position was changed. Trapezoidal Moo was replaced by triangular one as the sleeve of Jikryung was changed in shape. 3. Changes in shapes of the parts of Jikryung influenced the aesthetic beauty of the dress itself In its first period, Jikryung was simple with long, slim silhouettes. In its second period, the dress was rich with increased volume. Finally in its third period, the dress was characterized by the harmony of simpleness and richness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.1
• /
• pp.147-168
• /
• 2017

This study examines the types and characteristics of women's garments excavated in the early Joseon Dynasty before 1592. The study sorts out headgear, jacket, skirt and trousers, and coats from the historical texts in the early Joseon Dynasty and excavated women's wears in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and analyzes their textiles and patterns. The Joseon women's garments convey several features. They are wide across the chest and square shaped collar with virtually straight sleeves. While their breast-ties are extremely little for the size of clothes, they do not have any inner-tie. They have broad and short dongjeongs which seem to be hard to be adjusted. There are a variety of headgear. Jang-Jeogori slit down in both sides. The Jeogori after the seventeenth century transformed a more practical form of a fitting dress to an individual body in comparison with the sixteenth jeogori. It is identified that the fabrics in the early Joseon period were woven more diversely and colorfully than the late Joseon period. Most of the excavated fabrics in the sixteenth century were in silk. Materials for adornments before 1592 were not much diverse and their designs mostly contained patterns of lotus flowers, patterns of cloud and treasures with oblique lines. The colors are mainly brown, navy and green. The Joseon women's clothes were comprised of skirts with folded hem, coat with round collars, wide leg pants, Jangot, long-sleeved coat with folding collars, and quadrangular pieces of cloth in various sizes, or mu and so forth. Joseon women's clothes, like men's wears, partake of active functions in their headgears, wide leg pants, styles in short front and long back, and coat with round collars.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.21 no.2
• /
• pp.21-36
• /
• 2012

As wooden construction developed, it was observed that the rafters with corners changed to angled rafters. The change from rafters to angle rafters means that the angle rafters became the most important member in supporting the roof weight as the construction scale increased and structurally developed. The specific installation methods of angle rafters were all unique in Korea, China, and Japan. In East Asia, the angle of the angle rafter gradually decreased along with the development of construction. However, in Joseon Dynasty Korea, the angle of the angle rafter was larger than that of the Gorye era because the method of fixing the corner of the roof more firmly by building the fan-shaped rafter was utilized. The changes to the angle rafter installation method is a unique characteristic of Korea, in that it was developed in a totally different way from the methods used in China and Japan.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.2
• /
• pp.35-49
• /
• 2016

Dopo was the clothing of the Joseon period, which had a strong value of Confucianism. Apart from the kings and princes, government officers and Confucian literati wore Dopo as their official clothing and the uniform. The basic form of Dopo had the straight collar similar to Jikryeong. The difference is the shape of a Mu, which was fixed inside or on the back section along the side line of the front section and made two flaps on the back section. The clothing found in the tombs of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) are from the mid-16th century to the early 17th century with the clothing style of the early Joseon period. The outer collar of all clothing was the shawl collar except for the Sibok and the inner collar was sewn to this. Two items had square tray collars, which were folded in half and sewn inside in half. The sleeve had a straight inseam from the armhole and its end around the wrist was round and wide. The carp-shaped inseam of the sleeve and wide sleeve indicated a change of sleeve shape. The shapes of the collars and the wide overlapped section of the dual collars demonstrated the shapes of the initial outer robes. The man's outer coats with wide sleeves were mostly cotton-quilted clothing. As described above, this paper examines the basic shapes of outer robes including Sibok, Jikryeong and man's outer coats on the basis of the clothing and artifacts from the tomb of Bae Cheonjo (1532~?) and examined the shapes, composition and features of Dopo. This paper aims to improve awareness of the wisdom and spirit of ancestors in life hidden in the sewing of the three Dopo items and on the importance of historical research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.10
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 2009

One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.385-399
• /
• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.