• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.134-152
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• 2008

Functional, aesthetic and symbolic working uniforms in the industrial complex are demanded by employees and employers. The purpose of this research was to find out the actual wearing condition and preference of the working uniform design in the industrial complex. The research selected 7 enterprise subjects located in the Changwon National Industrial Complex and adopted a questionnaire method. 912 workers categorized into 4 work groups according to their work posts replied in total. The data and the degrees of satisfaction/preference of the working uniforms were analysed into descriptive statistics and F-tests by using the SPSS S/W package. The results were as follows: First, the style of the working uniform was the standard two-piece style. Second, the degree of the satisfaction with the entrepreneurial image implied to the working uniform was 2.83 throughout the 5-scale evaluation. In addition, the degree of the satisfaction with the working uniform colors was in between 2.94 and 2.96. Third, unsatisfied parts of the upper and lower uniform garments were: sleeve > pocket > collar; and waist belt loop > hip pocket > hem line respectively. Fourth, beige was the most preferred color for the working uniform top and bottom both. The most preferred color images were the calm and safety and the bright and light in order. Especially, the demand on the safety factors and soil proof colors of the outside field workers was much higher than the clerical workers. Fifth, the blouson type jacket with shirts collar or soutien roll collar was more preferred to than the casual style; and the straight formal pants were more preferred to than the casual/sweat sports pants styles. Sixth, inner pockets to keep the mobile phone and pens were required for upper garment details specially by manufacture workers. Increase of the waist belt loop numbers was required by all work groups.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.53-70
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the innovation of Vidal Sassoon's hair design. His hair styling was created in 1950-60, and it was related to the Zeitgeist, 'Convulsion'. It was aesthetic reform that eliminated artificially of headdress through new design concept and high technique. It was social renovation that changed women's life through freedom, ease and mobility of hair form. Also, it was scientific innovation that emphasized improvement of hair care. Therefore this researcher set a high value on his contribution in beauty industry, and studied the formative characteristics of his hair styling. The results are as follows: The formative characteristics are classified into the simplicity of form, the mobility of construction, and the variety of color and texture. 1. The simplicity of form showed through geometric form. Vidal Sassoon's hair design had the overthrow traditional concept of femininity and beauty; in addition, it conferred freedom on not only hair itself but also women's action. 2. The naturalism and mobility of construction was found in layered and softly swinging hair made up by skillful cutting technique. It was developed by studying on the dynamism of sports in 1984 LA Olympic games. 3. The variety of color and texture showed conspicuously its visual evidence because of the simplicity of form. Especially, he borrowed factors of fine art, that is to say, form, space, texture, line, color and light, and created a performance art. His work is analyzed into an art, and he is one of the best artists.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.35-48
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• 2001

The purpose of this research is to understand the importance and structure of underwear which is the closest cloth to the body. Scope of this research is from middle of 19th century to the beginning of 20th century. Firstly, I studied background of the times and change of women's status and duty. Secondly, I examined the outer garment closely by the ideal beauty of each period based on the study, and thirdly I looked into structure ways of underwear. Then lastly, I took a close look about the relation of outer garment and underwear, comparing with and researching both. I studied this research, focusing on corset, crinoline and bustle based on main characters such as reform and transform among several functions of underwear. The research results are such as follows. First of all, when women's social and economic status was subjected to men, women had worn corset and fashionable dresses even though there was many object movements and vices in women's garment. Secondly, according to those movements, the ideal beauty had changed little in the same sort emphasizing on breast and hip. Thirdly, structure method of underwear changed by ideal beauty and shape of outer garment. Due to increasing sports participation, improvement of women's position, achievement of practical use, women used more drawers and stopped wearing hoop. And the weight of underwear like combination and suspender attached to corset had decreased and advanced into the more practical way. Because of industrialization, function seemed to be granted by technology development, social position change of femininity.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.220-226
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• 2000

This study was to determine the characteristics of vapor-permeable waterproof finished fabric by the coating method. 4 different kinds of coating fabrics (A : wet, porous, polyurethane, B : dry, no porous, polyurethane, C : shape memory polyurethane and D : dry, porous polyurethane) were used, which were developed recently With this sample, moisture transport rate ($40^{\circ}C$, 45%RH & $40^{\circ}C$, 95%RH), changes of coating side's shape by washing times, water repellency rate, contracted length, qmax, heat conductivity, heat keeping rate, heat keeping rate with cotton, heat keeping rate on humidity temperature and humidity within clothing etc. were checked. And it was done in a climate chamber under $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, $65{\pm}5%RH$. The results of this study were as follow; In the moisture vapor transmission of sample B and C increased on high temperature and high humidity while sample A and D decreased, on this condition. Qmax rate had high relation with ground fabric's surface properties and the order was A>C>D>B. Heat conductivity had high relation with thickness and surface properties. Heat keeping rates on sweat condition showed around half percents of heat keeping rates on normal condition, but had no relation with moisture vapor transport rate. Changes of the fabric's properties by washing times were different in accordance with the construction of fabrics and the coating resin. Sample C had tow heat keeping rate on the high temperature and humidity and high heat keeping rate on the low temperature and humidity Moisture transport rate of vapor-permeable waterproof finished fabrics had high relation with the properties of ground fabrics on low humidity condition, but on the high humidity condition, it was highly related with the properties of coating resin.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2012

This study focuses on looking at the influence of silhouette in the 1930s on fabric pattern design by comprehending how differently flower-pattern design were found according to clothing silhouette. The period scope of research was limited to 1930s, and the research object was set as the flower patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion and the women's daily apparel as well as the clothes for sports and leisure activities. Based on the above research scope, the researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1930s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. A glance at the women's clothing in the 1930s reveals that they emphasized something inactive, elegant, feminine and that great popularity was given to feminine silhouette that closely fitted the body and long and slim, as skirts became longer and longer. Like this, silhouette refused traditional methods in the technique of expressing flower patterns that were on-trend in that period, pursued the freedom of line and form, used shadowing technique by means of free pens and brushes and the effect of watercolors. It also arranged in a semitransparent way and painted contours alone, too. Flower patterns fell into two categories: amorphous abstract patterns and standardized abstract patterns. The patterns expressed themselves, divided into small-scale irregular patterns and abstract geometric patterns that filled the entire textile.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2015

The appearances and geometry structures of knitted fabrics have important effects on their functions as textile fabrics. Structural design of the woven fabric, prior to the manufacturing processes in the weaving mill, often leads to a similar predictable appearance in the final outcome with the corresponding weave design. The increase of the employment of elastic textile yarns in knitting fabrics for comfort stretch or outdoor sports wear knit products has, however, resulted in difficulties in predicting the final appearance of the knit structure design. Due to the stretchability and exceptional recovery behavior of the elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastomeric yarns, the appearance of the final product often differs from the initial knit design. At textile CAD program for preparing tricot knit designs has been employed in this study to predict the two dimensional appearance of the design. The similarities between the designs and corresponding knit products seem to be acceptable for the two-dimensional textile CAD program in this study. However, when elastomeric yarns are partially employed in the polyester filament tricot product, a considerable amount of departure from the design is apparent due to the constriction and/or deformation of property differences in the elastomeric yarns and polyester filament yarns. Therefore, another purpose of this study is to measure the departure of the final tricot product from the initial tricot design, especially in the case employing elastomeric yarns in the knit structure together with regular polyester filament yarns. For measuring the three-dimensional departure, a 3D scanning system has been used for the mesh reconstruction of the fabric specimen. Hopefully, the result from this study will be used as a guide to modify and improve the current textile CAD program proposed for the two-dimensional simulation of the tricot.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.17-29
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• 2020

This study aimed to produce fiber stretch sensors for smart soccer socks to prevent injuries during training. A sensor was manufactured with stretchable fabric and tested to ensure convenience during training. In order to manufacture the fiber stretch sensor, a CNT dispersion solution was applied to an e-band and elastic polyester fabric, and the performance of the sensors was evaluated by a tensile test. Performance evaluation showed that both of the tested fabrics are excellent for this purpose. Both sensors were attached to socks to create prototype wearable devices, and an experiment was conducted to determine whether a resistance change accompanying relaxation and contraction of the gastrocnemius muscle could be detected. In order to accurately evaluate performance as a sensor, the fabric was stretched 20 times at low speeds of 1 Hz and 0.5 Hz. A change in resistance due to tension was observed, with both the E-band and the stretchable poly fabric showing high sensitivity and high reproducibility. Both can be used as relaxation/contraction sensors. Smart soccer socks were made using the two materials, and an evaluation was conducted. Tensile tests were done on the smart soccer socks; the tests were done 20 times per sock, and the sensor showed a stable resistance change between 30 and 40 ohms depending on the tension of the sensor. As a result, we confirmed that smart soccer socks with stretch sensors made of E-bands can measure changes in the gastrocnemius muscle.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.153-171
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• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.156-169
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to develop lightweight, stretchable, tight-fit smart sportswear using the conductive yarns into the garment and demonstrating its usefulness. Sportswears with the ability to control LEDs with respect to lighting of the surrounding were developed by applying embroidery with conductive yarns to 2 types of men's T-shirts and 2 types of women's leggings pants for outdoor activities and exercise purposes. LEDs were applied to the front and back of men's T-shirts and to the rear of the waist of women's leggings. Men's T-shirts were printed where the LEDs were to be applied, and inside, they were embroidered with conductive threads on the hot-melt fabric to be attached, and then connected with LED. Women's pants were embroidered on the elastic band, in the form of a sine wave that gives it ability to stretch, and finally the elastic band was hidden inside the waistband. The operation of the light sensor in the dark provided the ability to protect joggers from night drivers or cyclists. LEDs were activated when the wearer turns on the fashionable device on his/her shoulder by pressing it. It was able to reduce the risk of accidents by giving recognizability to vehicles, bicycles, and athletes approaching or passing by at night, and securing safe distance from vehicles, etc. Internal embroidery technology had the same flexible and lightweight functions as ordinary clothing products, making it possible to apply to tight-fit smart T-shirts or leggings pants designs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.91-104
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• 2022

In this study, a cycling smart wear for measuring cycling posture and motion was developed using a three-dimensional motion analysis camera and an IMU inertial sensor. Results were compared according to parts to derive the optimal smart device attachment location, enabling correct posture measurement and cycle motion analysis to design a pattern. Conclusions were as follows: 1) 'S-T8' > 'S-T10' > 'S-L4' was the most significant area for each lumbar spine using a 3D motion analysis system with representative posture change (90°, 60°, 30°) to derive incisions and size specifications; 2) the part with the smallest relative angle change among significant section reference points during pattern design was applied as a reference point for attaching a cycling smart device to secure detachable safety of the device. Optimal locations for attaching the cycling device were the "S-L4" hip bone (Sacrum) and lumbar spine No. 4 (Lumbar 4^th); 3) the most suitable sensor attachment location for monitoring knee induction-abduction was the anatomical location of the rectus femoris; 4) a cycling smart wear pattern was developed without incision in the part where the sensor and electrode passed. The wearing was confirmed with 3D CLO. This study aims to provide basic research on exercise analysis smart wear, to expand the smart cycling area that could only be realized with smart devices and smart watches attached to current cycles, and to provide an opportunity to commercialize it as cycling smart wear.