• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.159-175
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• 1999

In literature, a description of costume represents an individual's characteristics when the object is an individual. If the literary object is a certain group in a certain region, it would play an important role in representing the culture of time. It clearly shows that aesthetic consciousness of Hyo-Suk Lee who had accepted the western dandyism was well expressed in his literary works. Hyo-Suk has been unique in describing life-styles such as beauty of costume, art-for-art's sake, and leisure activities, and color imagery in his works. The color and the style of the costume show us the mental state of the wearer. They also affect the emotional states of other people. Hyo-Suk's "Pollen(화분)" and "Byukongmuhan(벽공무한)" confirm the fact that the mentality of the people can be hinted through the description of costume. They also ascertain that the color imagery retained by a special color can be altered by different circumstances and settings. Hyo-Suk applies in his works the effect of vivid color contrast, which newly appeared in Fauvism, to the description of costume. In consequence, he reflects the color aesthetics of Modern Art in which the fine art has an effect on the applied art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.593-603
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to study the Central Asian costumes($1{\sim}7C$) and develop new design items and suggest new brand launching. Korean apparel industry has been suffering from imbalance of supply and demand caused by the sagging economy and too many apparel companies. Due to the several years of recession, clothing consumption decreased and foreign brand's market share got bigger. As a result, managing a company became difficult and it is time for Korean apparel industry to enter the global market. We need a brand with new image and design that has big potential of purchasing power not only in Korea but also in China, and furthermore in global market. But even nearby Chinese market already became very competitive. One way of approaching Chinese fashion market is to find something special, for example, their historical background. Central Asian culture and costumes, a part of China, has both Eastern and Western culture. No other apparel industry had interest in the Central Asian costumes yet. Therefore, through their costume, a fresh design idea can be suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.56-75
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• 2010

Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.39-58
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• 1998

In this research, first of all, the special feat-ures of Haute Couture design world (1990∼1996) prevailed in Paris and Rome are investigated, and additionally the understanding of collection concept and design structure analysis are performed to show the various method-ology of creative design. Expression method and design method are the main criteria in analyzing, and the main results of this research are summarized as follows : 1. Most of designers in Paris and Rome ex-press the traditional costume style. Paris designers are focusing on the expression of design morphology through the abstraction and re-appearance without being confined to theme expression ; Rome designers are expressing their main ideas utilizing the fashion image as their theme in lieu of expressing the design morphology. 2. Most of the designers in Paris and Rome are using simple lines for their design. Paris designers prefer the plastic design based upon formal and symmetrical balance of informal and asymmetrical balance to the partial trans-formation design ; Rome designers are enjoy-ing rather the partial transformation using the detail and trimming than the plastic design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.68-81
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• 1999

This paper makes a report of Shaman\`s ritual performed among Korean resiednts in Japan as socio-historical facts, and this also examines the symbolic meanings of Shamans\` costumes. The results are as follows ; 1) At the ritual of Jungsip-Wang Maji, Shamans wear Gwandae, Kunbok, Jangsam, Durumaki, and Chima-jugori. These costumes show that their wearers are priests and gods at the same time. 2) The reason why Simbang performs the ritual in different costumes at different Jaechas is that each object-god needs different costumes to represent its different character. 3) Shamans\` instruments consist of musical instruments and other instruments. Among the musical instruments are such percussions as Buk, Jing, Janggo and Sulsae. Among other insttruments are Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung. 4)Shamans think that the musical instruments have magic powers to drive out minor demons and invite gods. Sindo, Sanban and Yoryung are thought to be the symbolic instruments representing god\`s will.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.71-86
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• 2008

The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.59-82
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• 1995

All kinds of art are the creatures of the daly and reflect the society and the life of the day in literary works. So, in which literary works, we can find the styles of those who lived in the specified days. And the styles of its character's costume are expressed with the day'mood and cultural backgrounds. In this study, we studied on the general meaning, which was shown in the Costume of early Ch'ing Dynasty that was forming the Costume of dress through dividing into the underwear and the outer garment in $\ulcorner$Dream of the read Chamber$\lrcorner$. During the Ch'ing Dynasty, according to the rule : Men followed it but women not" , they held on to the costume of them (both the Man and the Han) with a high pressure and a conciliatory policy. As a result, I have known that there is the Soojean clothe(수전의), which is the late Myung Dynasty's one and their is also Skirt (군), which held on the Costume of the Myung's. Hence in the Ch'ing , there are a lot of difference in the Costume , the economy and the politic because the ruler was not the han but the Ch'ing. Those characters are as follows. first, on the side of the style , it is occured in the coat and the over jacket of the round neckline. The style of the sleeves are also the tightly(고착). Second, on the side o f the material, the use of the furs are found. It seems that are influence of the north area. Third, it is involved not the traditional Costume of the Han, but the over jacket(which is waistlength), These characters had taken root into the Costume of the Ch'ing Dynasty. In case of the jacket, which are found in the novel most frequently , it was represented by the tight jacket (소오), the long jacket (대오), the short jacket(단오) and the Sam (삼). The skirt was used by women only. the Slacks were trousers only for men, so it was not foujnd in the women's wear. In the vest, the over jacket and coat, which are for putting on, its material, insiqnia and varied embroidery are very brillant and elaborate. The used materials are the silks , furs, wools and cottons. Among the dick silks are used most frequently . in case of the over jacket, the precious and varied furs are used for the collar, the sleeve or the decoration and the lining cloth. In the novel, mean followd the Costume of the Man and women followed the Costume of the Han. Especially, it is a special costume that there were women in male attire. Finally, the costume of the Ch'ing had built the unique one with holding on the advantage and the short point s of the northen race and the Han's. Also , I can find the brilliant , eleborate Customes of the aristocratic class in the novel.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.132-150
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to study the forms and styles of the costumes in the Peking Opera of China and to figure out the symbolism and aesthetic value of the costumes. The research was done using documentary Peking Opera, the costumes can be seen as a special kind of language which audience members can clearly understand it. Therefore, the spectators can understand instantly the sex, age, personality, and position of the character by seeing the style, color, and patterns of the costumes. As a result, one can call the costumes of Peking Opera, "picturizing costumes". The typical costumes are mangpao, pi, kao, xiezi, yi. Mangpao is the ceremonial robe often used by emperors and officials. It can be worn by lao sheng, xiao sheng and wu sheng. Bright yellow and apricot yellow colors are used exclusively by those who play the parts of emperors, foreign rulers, princes and the Monkey King. The next costume style to be discussed is Pi. Pi is the informal dress for the emperor, and young officials that are involved in civilian or military duties. The third costume style to be explored is Kao: the garment that a stage warrior wears when going into battle. This warrior can have three kinds of armor: the hard armor, the soft armor and the newly revised armor. Fourthly, the costume that is the most commonly worn, xiezi, is examined; it is the informal coat for every one regardless of one's age, sex, role, or level of nobility. Finally, the last of the typical costumes is Yi; this costume category includes numerous kinds of costumes, such as kaichang, baguaiyi, fayi, guanyi, yulinjia, kanjian, toupeng, jianyi, etc

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.564-573
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.