• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.586-606
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• 2023

This study initiated research aligned with the body positivity movement, aiming to explore size diversity for groups facing relative size discrimination due to their deviation from average body types. Using KS adult women's apparel dimensions as a reference, jackets were developed for women in their 20s to 30s who belong to the small petite-size (S[P]) category, which is characterized by a height under 155cm (petite) and a bust-circumference from 72cm to less than 82cm (small). Using 3D virtual-fitting, we conducted experiment-pattern production and refinement and subsequent real-fitting evaluations by participants to objectively validate aesthetics and comfort. The study's findings are as follows: First, utilizing a 3D virtual-fitting program by identifying 'creases' and 'garment pressure points' in the jacket appearance, experiment patterns were refined and real jackets were produced. This approach addressed challenges in recruiting participants with specific body types and allowed for efficient research in terms of cost and time. Second, through real-fitting evaluations, basic-fit and slim-fit jackets labeled as <79-88-150> were developed for the S(P) size. we presented 'size spec' and 'ease allowance' for jackets by waist fit. Both fits received positive evaluations with approximately 53.5cm sleeve length, and 11.7cm shoulder length. The ease allowances for the basic-fit jacket were approximately 9.2cm at the bust circumference, 12.8cm at the waist circumference, and 6cm at the hip circumference. Similarly, the slim-fit jacket exhibited ease allowances of about 4.8cm at the bust circumference, 4cm at the waist circumference, and 4cm at the hip circumference, receiving positive evaluations for aesthetics and comfort.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.29-42
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body size and body characteristics of short-statured females in their 20s and 30s using direct measurement data from the 7th size Korea, and to analyze the differences in body dimensions and proportions between the regular and tall groups of short groups. The goal is to identify the dimension areas that need attention when designing and grading patterns for this short groups. As a result, it was found that the short group was shorter in height than the regular group, and the circumferential dimension was similar to the regular group. When designing patterns the tops, the grading of the Bust point-bust point is not necessary for the height, and it is not necessary to grade the Neck point to breast point in the short and regular group. These groups showed a difference in the front silhouette but not in the side silhouette. Based on these findings, the body types were classified into the following three types: 'most bulky and heavy', 'long lower body and small shoulder', and 'small and thin'. The type 1 population was the least distributed, and the relatively small and slim type was the most common. It is expected that the results of this study can be used as a reference when setting pattern designs, grading values, and production ratios by size for short women.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.8
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• pp.1262-1272
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• 2009

The study is classifies the figures of obese women aged 20-50 with an over 25 BMI from the data of the fifth Size Korea in 2005. As the result of conducting the factor analysis for segmenting the shape, Factor 1, Factor 2, Factor 3, and Factor 4 are respectively derived as the factor on a volume, the factor on the size of the vertical direction, the factor on the shoulder region, and the factor on the body length balance. As the result of conducting the cluster analysis using 4 factors (scores extracted from the analysis of factor analysis) the body type of obese women was classified into four types. The name of shape was specified by combining 'P' (an abbreviation of petite) that indicated the height (smaller than 155cm) among the height names of KS standard, 'R' (abbreviation of regular) that indicated the height (155cm-165cm) and the body characteristics. Type 1 had the longest length, and normal circumference, thickness, and width but with the developed shoulder. Type 1 was classified as a robust, 'Plus-RH'. Type 2 had the middle height, the shortest length of the upper part, a relatively-long length of the lower part of body. Type 2 shows the characteristics of a small body that was classified as 'Plus-PI'. The most obese body was Type 3 that had the normal length and shoulder size but showed the longest length of the upper part of the body; it was classified as 'Plus-PO'. Type 4 as the small shape had a potbelly and showed the characteristics of the shortest body classified as 'Plus-Pb'.