• Title/Summary/Keyword: sleeve shape

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A Study of Crinoline and Bustle Style Jacket Pattern Analysis and its Reproduction (크리놀린 스타일 및 버슬 스타일 재킷의 패턴분석과 재현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Jin-Suk;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.80-88
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    • 2006
  • This study attempted to undertake comparative analysis of woman's jacket pattern and details based on the Crinoline and Bustle style of the 19th century, comprehend the relation and differences between the two styles. And it also presented the resultant characteristics and attempted reproducing the original dress of the past for the development of modern woman's jacket design. Larger portion was occupied for the breast front width than the back width for both Crinoline and Bustle style, which indicated the remarkable difference between these styles and modern jackets in terms of pattern size. Circumferences also showed that both styles had larger size for the front region than for the back. Divided by two types of pattern shape. The Crinoline style has a waist line and flare. On the other hand, the Bustle style does not have a waist line and has pleats. These two styles shows distinct differences of patterns even if they seem similar. It was essential to undertake the designing of models by giving a consideration to the characteristics of patterns of the two styles. With respect to how to sketch the study models which will be applied for the reproduction to modern body sizes were as follows: the front bust circumference; B/4 +1+1 cm, the back bust circumference; B/4 +1-1 cm, front waist circumference; W/4 +1+1 cm, back waist circumference; W/4 +1-1 cm, the height of sleeve crown; AH/3, armhole line; B/4, the back width /2; 17.5 cm, the breast front width /2; 16.5cm. And for the rest parts, sizes reflecting the characteristics of the patterns of two styles have been applied.

The Modified Hanbok Jeogori Pattern Development Using Virtual Dressing System - Based on Female Bodice Pattern -

  • Jeon, Seong Yeon;Wee, Hye Jung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.21 no.6
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    • pp.66-76
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    • 2017
  • This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

Characteristics of Korean fashion design developed in the Hanbokwave project (한복웨이브 프로젝트에 개발된 한국적 패션디자인의 특성)

  • Eunju Park;Young-Ju Rhee
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.228-247
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    • 2023
  • In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

Development of VHF-Band Conformal Antenna for UAV Mounting (무인기 탑재용 VHF 대역 형상적응형 안테나 개발)

  • Euntae Jung;Juhyun Lee;Jinwoo Park;Byunggil Yu;Kichul Kim;Jaesoo Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Military Science and Technology
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.54-63
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    • 2023
  • In this paper, a VHF band conformal antenna for UAV mounting was developed. The proposed antenna was designed as an shape-adaptive structure by minimizing the antenna height to be advantageous in RCS reduction performance. As for the antenna radiator, the outer radiator was arranged around the inner radiator to apply the CRLH zeroth-order resonance structure. With this structure, the height of the antenna was minimized, and it was reduced by about 70 % compared to the existing blade antenna. In addition, for impedance matching, the intermediate frequency bandwidth of the VHF band was improved through the sleeve pin of the inner radiator, and the low frequency bandwidth of the VHF band was improved by applying an EMI shielding gasket to the shorting pin of the outer radiator. The proposed antenna was manufactured and measured to verify the performance of the device and the performance after UAV mounting. As a result, the standard was satisfied for the operating frequency.

The Actual Wearing Conditions and Preferred Design of Tailored Jackets for Obese Women in Their 20s and 30s (20~30대 비만여성의 테일러드 재킷 착용실태 및 선호디자인)

  • Oh, Young-Soon;Lee, Jeong-Ran
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.9
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    • pp.1479-1490
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    • 2010
  • This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

Pollutant Loading and Changes of the Self - Purification Capacity with Season in Gokneung Stream Ecosystem (곡릉천 생태계의 오염부하량과 계절에 따른 자정능의 변화)

  • 이선경;심규철;김재영;김준민;장남기
    • The Korean Journal of Ecology
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.355-366
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of water quality and the patterns of self-purification with season in Gokneung stream. The vegetation in the ecosystem around Gokneung stream was dominated by Quercus species. In the physicochemical analysis based on the contents of DO, BOD, conductivity and total phosphorus, the upstream seemed to have been polluted, but the downstream was self-purified. In biological investigation by bentic macroinvertebrates, the result was similar to that in the physicochemical analysis. The self-purification constant based on BOD of the upstream, 1.013, was the highest. In the self-purification constants with month, that of September was 0.995 and that of January was 0.272. These results indicated that the self purification capacities of spring and autumn were larger than those of winter and summer in Gokneung stream.

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A Change of fashin IIIustration by the Ideal Type of Human Body Beauty (인체미의 이상형에 따른 패션 일러스트레이션의 변화)

  • 전경숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.28
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    • pp.65-84
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    • 1996
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

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A Study of Costumes of the 18th Century, Appearing in Genre Paintings from the King Young-Cho Period to the King Jung-Cho Period: Focused upon the Works of Focused upon the Works of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang (영ㆍ정조 시대의 속화에 나타난 18C 복식에 관한 연구 -오명현, 윤용, 이인상, 강희언, 작품을 중심으로-)

  • 최은주
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.5
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    • pp.859-879
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    • 2004
  • As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

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