• Title/Summary/Keyword: sleeve shape

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A Study on the Saekdong Jeogori Pattern in Hanbok Craftsman Examination (한복기능사실기시험의 색동저고리 패턴 연구)

  • MinJung Gang;MiKyeong Park;Jung-A Song
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.25 no.3
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    • pp.315-323
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    • 2023
  • In the diverse modern era, individuals are actively striving to develop and demonstrate their capabilities . As a means of cultivating interest in hanbok and differentiatedabilities , there exists a national qualification verification for hanbok technician. This study focuses on using Saekdong-jeogori pattern that is suitable for design and allows for accurate pattern production in a short time for beginners taking the practical test for hanbok technicians. We analyzed five experimental Saekdong-jeogori patterns, from which the final patterns for research were derived through appearance tests on the first table evaluation and the second outfit evaluation. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-1 for research utilized the body values presented by beginners taking the hanbok technician qualification verification, while the rest were calculated or applied using equivalents. The godae point and armhole depth were calculated based on the chest circumference, and the armhole curve, sleeve shape, doryeon line, and sleeve-end were drawn, regardless of the changes in the figures, using equal parts. The Saekdong-jeogori pattern-2 provided activity by vertically lowering the side line from the end of the armhole, and the keotseop line was drawn by moving 1 cm from the width of the Kit to the armhole line. The seopko was raised 0.2 cm from the keotseop reference line and0.2cm , and was supplemented by its connection to a natural curve.

A Study on the Name of Ho-Su(胡神) (胡神의 名稱)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.7 no.2
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    • pp.225-229
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    • 1999
  • The purpose of this study was to trace and to identify the origin and meanings of the word ho-su(胡神) that is found in historical documents of Chosun dynasty period. Historical documents, books, and other written materials from Korea and China were used for this research. The word ho-su(胡神) of Korea was originated in Chinese. At the first, ho-su(胡神) was a name of a kind of sleeves. It is long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrist parts. The character ho(胡) means a jaw, lower part of a jaw, a jaw hung down, hing down and lower part. Thus, the word ho-su(胡神) is a compound word made with character ho(胡) and character su(神) sleeve. The direct meaning of ho-su(胡神) in characteristic shape of the sleeves. The second meaning of the ho-su(胡神) is the name of a dress with long and wide round sleeves with narrow wrists. The name of the ho-su as a name of a dress was taken from the name of the ho-su(胡神), a kind of sleeves.

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A Study of Clothing Design Preference & Satisfaction with the Fit of Ready-to-Wear Clothing for Older Men (노년기 남성의 의복디자인 선호도 및 치수적합에 대한 만족도에 관한 연구)

  • 서미아;이선희
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.864-870
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study were to investigate clothing design preference (style, color, fabric print, kinds of fabrics) & satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing for older Men. For this study, the questionnaires were administered to 650 older men in seoul from June to August, 1998. Employing a sample of 504 data were analyzed by mean, frequency and percent. With respect to clothing design preference, they prefer suit the style of outdoor clothing on going-out. On distinguish clothing into formal wear & casual wear, the color preference due to seasons has difference in spring clothing. Regarding the degree of fabric pattern preference, nonpattern single color fabric has occupied in formal wear, pattern in casual wear. Regarding the degree of fabric preference, they take a serious view of shape preservation in formal wear, utility (washing, sweat absorption) in causal wear. Suit has the lowest satisfaction in the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. Sleeve length the lowest in the degree of satisfaction for each part.

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Mechanical Performance and Stress-Strain Relationships for Grouted Splices Under Tensile and Cyclic Loadings

  • Lin, Feng;Wu, Xiaobao
    • International Journal of Concrete Structures and Materials
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.435-450
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    • 2016
  • Experimental studies were conducted on 36 grouted splices to investigate their mechanical performance under four loading schemes: (1) incremental tensile loading, (2) repeated tensile loading, (3) cyclic loading at high stress, and (4) cyclic loading at large strain. Load-deformation responses of the grouted splices under cyclic loadings were featured with pinching effect and stiffness degradation compared to those responses under tensile loadings. The shape of the hysteresis loops of load-deformation curves was similar to that under incremental tensile loading. For the purpose of structural analysis, stress-strain relationships were presented for grouted splices under various loadings.

Conventional Female Donor Costume of Cave 79 of Kumtura

  • Shenya, Shenyan
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.2
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    • pp.210-214
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    • 2009
  • Cave 79 of Kumtura grottoes, is the best preserved cave, which has an important meaning for research on Uighur costume. This paper is intended to analyze the costume characteristics of female donors in Cave 79 by comparing image materials between Dunhuang murals and other murals in Xinjiang province. In Cave 79, female donor wears red robe with tight sleeve, whose collar is crescent-shaped decorated. Two different opinions are upheld for this decoration. One regards this as the turn-down collar, while the other believes this as decoration on V-neckline. Red robe is quite common in female donors of Xinjiang and Dunhuang murals and a female in fresco is wearing a crown in a triangle red headwear style, regarded as red silk and drooping at head. Female donors wear an extra coat, kame hair clasp, red jacket, light-colored high-waist skirt with a long-tail waistband, and tangerine Pibo (silk ribbon) with scattered small flowers. All these costume styles are commonly-used by Han females. The kame headwear is also the common ornament for Han females and the female's hairstyle is in cone shape on head by a white kame. Current costumes are similar but not completely same.

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A Comparative Study on the Design Developing of Japanism (Japanism을 반영한 패션 디자인 전개에 관한 비교 연구)

  • 이은령;배주원;이경희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.39-52
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

Mechanical Failures and Design of High Pressure Die Casting Tools (고압 다이캐스팅 툴의 파괴 및 설계)

  • 박용국
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Technology of Plasticity Conference
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    • 1998.06b
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    • pp.60-66
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    • 1998
  • The horizontal cold chamber pressure die casting produces a variety of net shape, complicate-geometry castings with desired mechanical properties. dimensional tolerance, and surface finish. However, top quality castings can be achieved only when optimal performance of thecold chamber (shot sleeve )and plunger is maintained druing the molten metla injection phase of the process. Unforturately, inreality , shot sleeves deteriorate fast and sometimes fail catastrophically due to incorrect design. These early and unexpected failures of shot sleeves cost die casters money and productiivity. To prevent promature failures of shoe sleeves major faulure mechanisms were investigated. with the aid of analyticla solutions robust design criteria for shot sleeves have been developed. The data directly obtained from failed shot sleeves in the die casting industry for automotive parts, support a strong correlation between design and filures. by applying these design criterial we expected premature faulures of shot sleeves can be avoided in die casting industry.

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Fine Structure on the Spermiogenesis of Octopus minor on the Western Coast of Korea I (한국 서해안 서해낙지 (Octopus minor)의 정자 완성에 관한 미세구조 I)

  • Chang, Nam-Sub;Kim, Sang-Won;Han, Jong-Min
    • Applied Microscopy
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    • v.31 no.3
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    • pp.223-233
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    • 2001
  • The spermiogenesis of a Korean octopus, Octopus minor, inhabiting western of Korea Sea was observed by electron microscopy . The obtained results are as follows: The spermiogenesis of Octopus miner proceeds through four stages; early- , mid- , and late-spermatid, and mature sperm. An early spermatid is a spherical cell looking light due to the low electron density. The acrosome formed from Golgi complex of the upper nucleus looks dark due to the high electron density. The extra-nuclear rod (enr) stemming from proximal centriole is transformed from round shape into oval shape, elongating to the upper nucleus. In our observation, the axoneme was being formed from distal centriole, and the manchette composed of a number of microtubules is also found around nuclear membrane. In a mid-spermatid, chromatins in the nucleus contract shaping fine threads, and the manchette is also observed around nuclear membrane. Especially, the spherical acrosome is transformed into long oval one which is tinged with a number of horizontal stripes and has the middle electron density. In a late-spermatid, chromatins in the nucleus contract thick and short. Furthermore, the mitochondrial sleeve, in which the axoneme is surrounded with mitochondria, is observed at middle piece. The axoneme has a typical structure of 9+2 and around it, 9 coarse fibers are observed. Also in the acrosome cavity of mature sperm, horizontal striation is found. However, regularly spaced processes are peculiarly observed in there. A sperm is about 390 fm long, whose head is bent a little like a banana while the acrosome region is helical. In the middle piece of sperm, $11\sim12$ mitochondria are surrounding coarse fibers that reach the main piece of tail, while nothing but 9+2 structured axoneme is found in the end piece.

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A Study on the Changes of the Form of costume related to the recognition of the beauty of the body -from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume- (인체미 인식과 복식형태의 변천 - 선사~청대까지 중국 여성복식을 중심으로-)

  • 김민지
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.32
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    • pp.225-242
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    • 1997
  • This study is historical research on the relationship between the Changes of the Form of costume and the recognition of the beauty of the body from prehistorical period to Ch'ing Dynasty in Chinese female costume. In figure painting a significant point was to describe the spirit of the figure so Chinese painters were less interested in ideal body pro-portion or body shape than Westerns. But idealized beauty of the female body existed and changed keeping abreast with the form of costume in each period. In the prehistorical period Wemen fasten waist belt so enabled to distinguish upper part of the body from lower one. "Locust-forehead moth-eyebrows(蝗首蛾毛)" recorded in "the Book of odes(詩經)" was the canon of beaty and Wemen tried to make their forehead broad and square from Zhou Dynasty to the Wei Jin periods. From the age of Civil War to han Dynasty Slender waist was loved so waist was tightly fastened and hemline became broader. in the course of that time Plump body in big cloth with broad sleeve emerged but that was less significant than Tang Dynasty. During Wei Jin and the Southern/Northern Dynasty undergo disruption and division they admired Taoist images. Loose fitting style with handkerchief hemline and broad sash belt was prevailed while miserable life was reflected gaunt face and lean body. Suk Dynasty also preferred a slim and long body silhouette. The style was presented extremely high waist line long and narrow sleeve slim and long skirt which expressed dynamic and straight image. The culture of Tang Dynasty was open and diverse and that character enabled blod decolletate revealing body line by tight fitting and special make-up-Social background of uion and stabilization made female body extremely plump full face. full breast and hips with most erotic image. The period of Kaiyuan Tianbao fashioned mannish disguise presented androgynous image. Five Dynasty and Song Dynasty restored standard body type so upper garments concealed neck and bust high waist line lowered which represented refined and simple outfit. But another eroticism emerged as foot-binding in Song Dynasty. For the sake of covering up deformed top of the feet and ankle gaiters and arrow shaped shoes were devised. During Ming Ch'ing Dynasties body shape became more slim weak and young causing to escort instinct that reflects 'Lust' or 'Mundanity'.

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Analysis of Knitwear Preferences and Purchase Behavior of University Students for Pullover Design Development Based upon Baekje Traditional Patterns as Culture Oriented Clothing Products (백제전통문양을 활용한 풀오버 패션문화상품 개발을 위한 대학생의 니트웨어 선호도와 구매행동 연구)

  • Suh, Mi-Young;Kim, Byeong-Mee;Lee, Mi-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.47-62
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study was to investigate the knitwear preferences and purchase behaviors of university students. The subjects were 493 university students in Daejeon and Chungnam Provinces. The method of this study was a survey and measurement instruments were 34 stimuli which were manipulated pullover patterns and shapes and self-administrated questionnaire with knitwear design preference items and knitwear purchase behavior items. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, frequency analysis, Cronbach'${\alpha}$, t-test, ANOVA and $Sch{\acute{e}}ffe$ test using SPSS program. The results of the study were as follows. First, university students most preferred achromatic colors, pastel tones, solid patterns, and 100% cotton. Second, as for knitwear purchase behaviors, university students considered the esthetical factor to be most important among 4 dimensions (comfortable, esthetical, economical, and conspicuous factors) as important purchase criteria, and they used internet web sites for knitwear purchases. Third, there were significant differences in preferred pullover shape depending on neckline shape, neck depth, sleeve shape and clothing length. University students preferred the classic pullover design with V neckline, normal neck depth, set-in sleeves and normal length. Fourth, university students preferred the cloud motif and riding man motif among the 9 Baekje traditional motifs and one point small pattern on the left chest and crosswise bending pattern for pattern arrangement.

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