• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.142-152
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate Spencer jacket of Empire Style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. First, Literature, films and other visual information were utilized in order to classify the designs of Spencer jacket. Second, Production of Spencer jacket using patterns shown in literatures and those commercially used and commercial patterns were investigated to find out design characteristics of jackets. Results and discussions are as follows: The results showed that Spencer jacket can be categorized into following three styles: (1) Jackets having front opening without button stands and standing collar, (2) Double breasted opening and notched collar, (3) Single breasted opening and flat collar with waist band. The characteristics of Spencer jacket design were as follows: (1) Short jacket length, (2) Armhole line moved inwards, (3) Long fit shaped puff sleeves, whose puff being distributed more heavily over back of the sleeve, (4) Diamond shaped back bodice, which are consisted with princess lines and shoulder lines moved backwards.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.55-79
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• 2000

This study is the design research for the practical use of Casual Hanbok. The conclusion of basic research for Casual Hanbok design reads as follows. Today's college women are fairly positive to the practical use of Casual Hanbok. Especially, they are strongly interested in the new design and have the active intention to wear it on actually. The concrete design of every parts of Casual Hanbok which is wanted by college women is as follows. Firstly, college women like well matched two-piece dress style in colors. And they want to decide the coloration independently than to follow the traditional coloration passively. Secondly, according to the design of jacket, sometimes they like the presence of a collar, a collar strip, a gore etc. and at other times they like absence of them. Thirdly, the side line of jacket they like and the seam line of sleeve they like is smoothly curved one and the adjusting means they like is a fancy button. Fourthly, the length of jacket they like reaches to their waist and the width of an armhole they like must be convenient for moving of arm. Fifthly, one out of two college women likes mixed spinning fabrics as material for jacket, skirt, pants. In the other hand, one out of five college women likes cotton. Sixthly, the skirt style they like is A ­line one having from two to four gathers on the waist and the length of skirt they like reaches to their ankle or calf of the leg. Seventhly, the pants style they like is the western style but the hem line of pants is the korean traditional pants style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.48-64
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to demonstrate how to recreate spencer jacket in the empire style in an attempt to apply this historic style to theatrical costumes and other high fashion items in modern times. The study was carried out through 2 steps. (1)Block patterns of spencer jacket of its basic design were developed through draping based on the design characteristics mentioned above. (2)Spencer jackets of three designs, which were the typical designs of each category have been made of velvet to find out more specific structural characteristics. The structural characteristics of Spencer jacket in draping were as follows: (1)Jacket length position was suitable 9cm below body's bust line and neckline should be enlarged front & side neck point 2cm, back neck point 1.5cm. (2)Cut out the front bodice after CF line moved 1cm outwards and bust dart amount should not exceed 2-3cm. Shoulder point moved inwards. (3)Side back grain line was parallel to princess line of the back bodice. Add 0.5cm ease to the under arm of the front and side bark bodice, it was good for the activity of arm. (4)Armhole line was trued as maintaining to across back width 14-15cm at least. Shoulder line was to connect from the point 2cm depart shoulder point along armhole line to point 2cm side neck point along neck line. (5)Sleeve length was suitable 70cm, cut out the bias direction to move forwards the grain line from shoulder point. Puff position was good from the 2cm depart shoulder point to shoulder line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.87-114
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• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.5
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• pp.1-20
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• 2011

As a follow-up of a study on design strategies to improve Korea's Korean coast guarduniforms, this study set out to propose Korean coast guard uniforms of a new concept that would meet the changing needs of the times and match the advanced technology and work environments. Three concepts of classical, nautical and techno chic were identified from the design strategies of the previous study. Using the results from a prototype show and preference survey, the investigator divided items into design, color, material, and detail and reflects demands for each of them. As a result, design was examined in four aspects of identity, acknowledgement, unity, and practicality and focused its improvement factors on design differentiated from other organizations' uniforms including ground police, segmentation of size system, adjustment of the length of upper garment to consider activity, and changes to the lines and silhouette to give out a modern image. As for color, the focus was placed on differentiated colors from other organizations' uniforms including ground police through dark blue and ocean color, change toward colors that reflect environmental characteristics, and unity in colors between the summer and winter uniform. As for material, the focus of improvement was put on elasticity, resistance against contamination, warmth retention, texture, wearing sensation, and functionality by taking into account convenience for field workers on coast guard vessels and branch offices who have much time in contact with ocean environments in order to make the materials high-grade. As for detail, structural details were added to give out a modern image such as changing the detail lines, efficiency of storage space, buttons, sleeve hems, ironing lines, and neck collars by taking into account environmental characteristics. The significance of the study lies in that it proposed a development model for large-scale uniform copy design by establishing copy design that secures functionality and is proper for an organization's social and cultural environment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.597-603
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• 2006

This study was aimed to find out the problems of wearing flame-proof clothing and to analytically assess functional working-clothes, thus to propose a new design. We carried out a questionnaire with workers in the field and evaluated the facility for wearing, the sensation of wearing and clothing microclimate in the environmental chamber. We found out the problems were in the parts of neck, armpits, armhole, sleeve, crotch and suspenders. Thermal sensation, wet sensation and comfort sensations were evaluated to be 'hot', 'wet' and near to discomfort', respectively. Therefore, improvement of movement and air permeability is needed. If we can add gusset on armpit for air permeability, this gusset will enable to enlarge the surface in armpit area and finally give a movement efficiency. We suggested several new partly modified design for flame-proof clothing which can be applied to other protective clothing for improvement. This must be further considered in the ergonomic evaluation of new proposed functional working-clothes as well as in the suggestion of design.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.17-34
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to find out problems which occured between clothes and motor ability traits of the hemiplegic aged. The samples were 32 hemiplegic aged men and were compared with 43 healthy aged men. Motor ability of the samples were measured by ROM test, muscle power test and finger function test(grip strength, hand's coordination, lateral pinch, 3pt. pinch). Design of the clothes consisted of 25 variables and the analysis of dressing and undressing motion consist of 10 motions of dressing and undressing dress shirts and 8 motions of trousers. The results were as follows: 1. There were significant relationship between ROM and muscle power and finger function of the hemiplegic aged(P<.001). 2. There were significant differences between the nomal side's finger function of the hemiplegic aged and that of the healthy group(P<.001). 3. The designs of clothes such as tutle neck line, long sleeve, button cuffs, fastening lace, open zipper and belt of trousers gave much difficulty to the hemiplegic when dressing and undressing. 4. The most difficult motion of dressing and undressing was fastening when dressing both dress shirts and trousers. 5. There were partly significant relationship between design of clothes and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man. 6. There were partly significant relationship between the degree of difficulty in dressing and undressing motions and ROM, muscle power, finger function of hemiplegic aged man.

• The KSFM Journal of Fluid Machinery
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• v.5 no.4 s.17
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• pp.26-31
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• 2002

The heat produced by the fission in the fuel of HANARO, 30 MW of research reactor, was transferred from the primary cooling water to the secondary cooling water through heat exchangers. The secondary cooling water absorbing the heat was circulated by secondary cooling pumps and cooled through 33 MW of cooling tower. Each capacity of the three secondary cooling pumps was fifty percent ($50\%$) of full load. The two pumps were normally operated and the other pump was standby. One of the secondary cooling pumps has often made troubles by high vibration. To release these troubles the pump shaft has been re-aligned, the pump bearing has been replaced with new one, the shaft sleeve has been replaced with new one, the shaft and the impeller have been re-balanced representatively and/or the vibration of motor has been tested by disconnecting the shaft of pump. But the high vibration of pump cannot be cleared. We find out the weight balance trouble of the assembly in which the impeller is installed in the shaft. After clearing the trouble, the high vibration is relieved and the pump is operated smoothly. In this paper, the trouble solution shooting method of secondary cooling pump is described including the reason of high vibration

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.5
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• pp.573-582
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• 2012

This work is to develop a T-shirt by adopting a unique cloud pattern (a good auspicious sign as design material) from traditional native Korean patterns for application to various cultural products and textile design cloth patterns; subsequently, a T-shirt design was processed based on this. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used along with a literature examination as part of motive for design development and pattern realization. Three basic motives were selected as a new formative image in this work, utilizing graphical elements such as abridgement and simplicity of pattern, where flower-shaped cloud pattern, uprising cloud pattern, and 卍-shaped or swastika-shaped pattern of traditional cloud patterns were selected. Each motive diverged into two motives via the shape transformation and the application of different colors. The newly developed basic motive was further processed into a combination of one-time repeat pattern, stripe pattern, and application pattern with mixed cloud motives (that were previously developed), which altogether turned out to be 36 pieces of textile design. In addition, with newly developed motive designs and textile designs, a total of 12 shirt designs for 4 pieces were developed for these three each. The shirt design was developed into a shirt blouse, sleeveless T-shirt, half-sleeve T-shirt, and sports T-shirt among others in order to fit various uses and purposes.

• Journal of Korea Foundry Society
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.88-94
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• 2007

General criteria for the risering design of steel castings and commercial codes for the flow and solidification analysis were used to design the optimized risering in V-process. Three type of specimens were chosen including thin plates and a thick disc. Sided riser installed in the front of a plate casting was effective to prevent the shrinkage defects and to increase the casting yield ratio. Exothennic sleeve and chill were also effective. It was possible to apply the general criteria for the risering design of steel castings to V-process. Temperature of a mold surface was expected to rise over $1,000^{\circ}C$ in the temperature calculation considering radiation effect of molten metal in the mold. Since weakening temperature of the vinyl used in V-process is about $70^{\circ}C$, it should be emphasized that a proper coating of the vinyl film is necessary to prevent the possibility of burning out of the vinyl by the molten metal.