• Title/Summary/Keyword: sleeve height

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A Study of Female Child's Han-bok Reform Design for Body Growth (초등학교 여자 아동의 신체 성장에 따른 한복 리폼 디자인 개발)

  • Ryu, Kyoung-Ok;Kwon, Hwi-Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.14 no.4
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    • pp.89-98
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this study is to female child Han-bok reform design for body growth. Nowadays there is common the western style daily life and special day instead of traditional style Han-bok in Korea. So the decrease in the use of Han-bok have being appeared. Specially, Children's Han-bok undesirable clothes for economic, environment, and resources because of their rapid growth and changing trend. Therefor, they do away with used Han-bok without next buying of school age. Children's parents and children are decision together purchase of children's Han-bok on-line for pleasure and economic reasons on pre-school or 1st year student for their tradition-education class. After 2000year, children's Han-bok pup-up on e-market because of the fashion focus on tradition and Korean wave for parody of Korean drama. Flowing the Research of 2010 Size Korea, the elementary school age child height growth 6cm per year, the sleeve length are 3cm growth. But Chi-ma(a pice of Han-bok) from e-market, has only 5cm margin on shoulder and no margin on Jegori(a pice of Han-bok) shoulder and sleeve, reason of that the children can't wear next year. Therefor this study is development female child Han-bok reform design for body growth, for extend to wear Han-bok on school age children and flow tradition custom of Cho-sun Dynasty's clothing custom for boost tradition conscious and reduce of cloth waste for environment.

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Pattern Analysis and Determination of Body Dimension for Flight Suit Design (비행복 설계를 위한 패턴 분석 및 인체치수 설정)

  • Jeon, Eun-Jin;Park, Ji-Eun;Jeong, Jeong-Rim;Park, Sei-Kwon;Park, Jang-Un;You, Hee-Cheon;Kim, Hee-Eun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.11 no.2
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    • pp.286-292
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

Design preference of male according to the Consciousness of Body Size. (남성의 신체 크기 인식에 따른 디자인 선호도)

  • Lee, Jeong-Yim;Cho, Jang-Hyun;Kim, Jong-Seo;Lee, Yun-Shim;No, Young-Mi
    • The Journal of Natural Sciences
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    • v.17 no.1
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    • pp.89-101
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the design preference according to the body consciousness for 20~26 years old male. The consciousness of body size and the satisfaction with body proportion were investigated. And the relationship between the body consciousness and the design preference was analyzed. Most subjects thought their body size was proper generally and their body proportion was proper or a little unsatisfied. The subjects preferred 'Round neckline', 'loose sleeve', and 'loose and long tops'. They didn't like the style that tops are under pants on the waist. They also preferred 'loose and long pants'. When the subjects chose clothing design, especially 'V-neckline tops' and 'short pants', they considered their height. They also considered their girth size and it meant they thought much of looseness. There was not any preference in clothing design according to the consciousness of height. The most significant relationships between the size consciousness and the preference in design was found in tops more than pants. The higher satisfaction with their body proportion was connected with the higher preference in some design. From all these result, it was found that the preference of clothing design could vary according to the consciousness of body size. The results from this study could give the important tips to improve the satisfaction with the clothing for each person.

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Apparel Fit by Body Perception and Body Satisfaction (신체만족도와 신체인지도에 따른 의복맞음성(Apparel Fit) 만족도)

  • 이경림;박숙현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.1
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    • pp.69-81
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study was to find out apparel fit satisfaction according to item(jacket, pants, skirt) by body perception and body satisfaction. This research was done by a survey method. Descriptive Statistics, Pearson's Correlation, Crosstabs were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows. 1) Correlation between body perception and body satisfaction : The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of upper body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, lower arm, waist and lower abdomen. The subjects were more satisfied with taller height. The subjects were less satisfied with larger or thicker girth of lower body. The subjects were less satisfied with thicker hips. thighs, calves, ankles, and longer crotch length. However, they were more satisfied with longer legs. 2) Apparel fit by body perception and body satisfaction: The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker upper arm, waist, thighs and wider hips were less satisfied with the upper arm area, waist area. hip area of jacket. The subjects who were more satisfied with longer arms were more satisfied with the sleeve length of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider shoulder width were less satisfied with the upper back width of jacket. It means the shoulder width affected more the upper back width of jacket than shoulder width of jacket. The subjects who were less satisfied with wider hips were less satisfied with the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with thicker thighs were less satisfied with the thigh area and the hip area of pants and skirt. The subjects who were less satisfied with longer crotch length were less satisfied with the crotch length of pants. 3) Difference between actual body and perceived body by Rohrer Index: Rohrer Index 109 calculated by average of the ideal height(165.83cm) and weight(49.78kg) of the subjects ranged in thin body type(below 120). The subjects tended to perceived their bodies fatter than their actual bodies. Also, the subjects tended to perceived their lower bodies fatter than upper bodies.

Development of VHF-Band Conformal Antenna for UAV Mounting (무인기 탑재용 VHF 대역 형상적응형 안테나 개발)

  • Euntae Jung;Juhyun Lee;Jinwoo Park;Byunggil Yu;Kichul Kim;Jaesoo Jung
    • Journal of the Korea Institute of Military Science and Technology
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    • v.26 no.1
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    • pp.54-63
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    • 2023
  • In this paper, a VHF band conformal antenna for UAV mounting was developed. The proposed antenna was designed as an shape-adaptive structure by minimizing the antenna height to be advantageous in RCS reduction performance. As for the antenna radiator, the outer radiator was arranged around the inner radiator to apply the CRLH zeroth-order resonance structure. With this structure, the height of the antenna was minimized, and it was reduced by about 70 % compared to the existing blade antenna. In addition, for impedance matching, the intermediate frequency bandwidth of the VHF band was improved through the sleeve pin of the inner radiator, and the low frequency bandwidth of the VHF band was improved by applying an EMI shielding gasket to the shorting pin of the outer radiator. The proposed antenna was manufactured and measured to verify the performance of the device and the performance after UAV mounting. As a result, the standard was satisfied for the operating frequency.

A Study on the Adaptive Dress for the Disabled Ederly(2) - Nursing Facilities for the Ederly in Seoul and KyoungIn Area - (거동 불편 노인에 대한 기능성 의복 연구(2) - 서울, 경인 지역 노인 전문 요양 시설을 중심으로 -)

  • 홍나영;지윤영
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.8 no.6
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    • pp.899-914
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of the study was to provide the actual data for designing adaptive dresses for the disabled elderly. In order to get the data, we had 3 parts of the procedure as follows ; 1. The survey of 205 nursing-care providers who take care of the disabled elderly in 1999. 2. Measuring 10 measurements of 80 disabled men and women each, 160 samples. 3. On the basis of data above, developing the adaptive dresses and doing the wearing-tests of those. The results are as follows ; 1. The most popular style for the disabled elderly in nursing facilities was non-collar pajama's. Specially, pajama style was needed for the disabled elderly being sick in bed, one-piece style was required for the disabled eldery with dementia. And the most desirable fabric function was a physiological comfortability. The most proper price required was about 20,000 won. 2. As Korean apparel industry use K.S. sizing system, we decided to use the same measurement to categorize the samples, bust and height. And according to the frequency in the size chart, we suggested the production size for the disabled eldery men and women. 3. After developing these adaptive dresses, the results of wearing-tests showed two kinds of problems. One was that of the sleeve length ; Actually, for the disabled elderly, the longer than the production size is the better for them. The other problem was revealed from subsidiay materials, fasteners.

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A Study on Jacket Pattern for Elderly Women (노년여성을 위한 재킷원형 설계)

  • 남윤자;최인순
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.40 no.10
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    • pp.177-189
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.

A Study on the Costume Style of Civil Servants' Stone Images Erected at Tombs of the Kings for Yi-dynasty (조선왕조(朝鮮王朝) 왕릉(王陵) 문인석상(文人石像)의 복식형태(服飾形態)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Yong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.4
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    • pp.87-114
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    • 1981
  • A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.

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A Study on the Current State of Outdoor Clothing Companie and their Comparison and Analysis according to the Items (등산복 업체현황 및 아이템별 패턴 비교분석 연구)

  • Lee, Eun-Hye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.35 no.9
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    • pp.1049-1059
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    • 2011
  • This study investigates the current state of companies that manufacture and sell outdoor wear. A survey was conducted to identify what problems they had and what aspects they needed to supplement through a comparison and analysis of their block patterns. Companies that manufactured outdoor wear and those that sold them were separately surveyed to understand their current state. The manufactures included 4 companies and 14 sellers. The survey used interviews to cover the areas of target consumers, development patterns, production lines, body size, nominal size, production size, and functional materials for each item, and aspects that need improvement. The survey period was from September $3^{rd}$ to $10^{th}$ 2008. There were three block patterns for jackets, T-shirts, and pants. The investigator collected the patterns used by three outdoor clothing manu-facturers for comparison and assessment. As a result, the mean age of the target consumers set by the outdoor clothing manufacturers and sellers was 25.3-50.7 and 29.2-42.5, respectively, which shows that the outdoor clothing had a wider distribution of target consumers than the sellers. It is imperative for them to segment and differentiate the target consumers and concepts. The basic body measurements the companies used to draw the upper and lower garment patterns were the bust circumference for the upper garment patterns and the waist circumference for the lower garment patterns. The basic nominal size was 95 for the upper garment and 70 for the lower garment. Also analyzed were the block patterns according to the items to understand the pattern characteristics of each of the companies. There were a total of 35, 36, and 30 items for the jackets, T-shirts, and pants, respectively, to measure size. The items were then compared with one another in mean and standard deviation. The analysis indicate that the block patterns were not fit for women in their twenties or thirties to wear and required revisions in the length of the upper garment, the height of sleeve cap, bust circumference, hip length, and pant length.

A Study on the Working Clothes for Korea Railroad -Focused on Winter Upper Garment- (한국철도공사 작업복에 관한 연구 (제1보) -동복 상의를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Ji-Won;Choi, Hei-Sun;Ryou, Heun-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.2
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    • pp.308-318
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study was to develop the functionally improved winter work clothing for the Korean railroad workers. Based on the questionnaires, the sample clothing for the Korean railroad workers was produced. The design, materials, and patterns were modified to increase mobility and comfort of workers. Water-repellent treatment was added to the material in order to decrease the dirt and stains while working. Also the reflective strips were added to chest and back of the upper garment in order to increase visibility and safety of the workers. In terms of the design and pattern underarm of the sleeve and side panel of the bodice were put in together and action pleats at the back were inserted in order to decrease the pullback of the armpit and scapular area and increase mobility of the arm movement. Also the patterns of the elbows areas were modified to increase mobility of joint. The prototype was evaluated an objective assessment and subjective assessment to compare to the existing working uniform. Assessment group was consisted of 5 subject groups and 11 expert groups and evaluated external appearance and adaptability to the movements. According to the results, the prototype was evaluated better than the existing working uniform in appearance and adaptability except height of collar. A field test was conducted to compare the prototype and the existing working uniform. The field tests were performed by 6 workers in the Korean railroad. According to the results, the prototype was improved in terms of adaptability and comfort.