• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.131-140
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• 2013

Power shoulder look is most noticeable trend in women's wear in the 09/10 season. Specially jackets with sharper angle and wider shoulder became the best item since then, and were chosen for must-have item by fashion directors. Jacket occupied 50% in power shoulder items. Its shoulder angle was from 0 to 30 degree but items with 15 degree stood out among them. There are three methods to make power shoulder look jackets; shoulder extension method with moving shoulder tip up and sleeve cap height, method of extension and cutting sleeve cap with shorten shoulder length, and method of extension and moving shoulder tip up in the sleeve with shoulder line like raglan sleeve. As a result, shoulder angle is higher, starting point of shoulder line is closer to side neck point and shoulder point is extender to outside for appearance and fit. In shoulder extension method, the arm hole line was drawn with care by matching joining shoulder seam and setting the sleeve into the arm hole. In sleeve cap transformation, it is desired that starting point shoulder angle is moved closely to side neck point. In case of the sleeve with shoulder line, it needs to consider enough ease of shoulder and upper arm. For making patterns of power shoulder look jacket, it need to consider arm hole line, shoulder length, shoulder point position, sleeve cap height and sleeve width with interpretation design facts. In this study, through the analysis clothing construction method of power shoulder jacket, it is of help to pattern making for various power shoulder design items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.826-841
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• 1995

This study is concerned with the functional utility of movement in sleeve from an ergonomic viewpoint. Experiments were carried out which include 43 upper extremity segments, 21 motions and 35 female subjects. The major conclusions of the study are. 1. The expansion rate of upper extremity was higher in length than in circumference mesurements. The amounts of expansion were, especially high (more than 60mm) for inner arm length, axillary arm circumference, and outer arm length. Therefore, a lot of ease is necessary for these parts. On the other hand, armhole circumference, forearm circumference, and wrist circumference had low rates of expansion. The sleeve cap length was also contracted in all motions. 2. The expansion rate and the range of expansion and contraction were higher in the upper arm than in the forearm. The main points of expansion were the axillary and elbow parts. The segment of maximum expansi (rate of 44.8%) was Iii of axillary parts. As the body surface expands mainly in some segments, it is desirable to allow ease to the main segments of expansion. 3. In a basic sleeve, necessary ease was lacking in the measurements for outer arm length and axillary arm circumference, while it was too large in armhole circumference, forearm circumference, wrist circumference, and sleeve cap length. Therefore, a basic sleeve is inadequate as a functional sleeve for hard work in point of functional utility of movement. Wider application of these findings would lead to an improvement in the comfort of workers.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09b
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• pp.47-48
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• 2000

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09a
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• pp.72-73
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• 2000

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to provide a blouse pattern of high school girls' uniform for production of good silhouette and fitness blouse as well as functionality. In this study, we compared blouse patterns of high school girls' uniform made in the three brands of higher market share being compared. The blouse was the most common design of high school girls' uniforms being sold. In addition, we compared characteristics of appearance and functionality of blouse patterns by the wearing test. Based on the results of pattern comparison and wearing test of the blouses, the new blouse pattern for high school girls' uniform was developed. The results of the wearing test for appearance showed that the developed blouse obtained statistically higher ratings than the existing brands in almost items. The results of the wearing test for functionality of the developed blouse showed that items related with sleeve cap were evaluated a rating below 3. In order to improve functionality, the developed blouse pattern was changed that the sleeve cap was lowered by 0.5cm and the sleeve breadth increased by 1cm. The drafting of the new blouse pattern was developed.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Machine Tool Engineers Conference
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• 2002.04a
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• pp.435-439
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• 2002

In the pneumatic system, pneumatic cylinder is wildly used to factory automation. In general, Pneumatic cylinder problems are occured with colliding to stroke end part at which piston collide to end-cap, head cap and tube when piston is loading. This appearances have a short life of cylinder and is due to system destruction. This study examines the dynamic characteristics of pneumatic cushioning cylinder and cushion sleeve design. At head part cushion chamber for the vertical experimental, The decisions of cushioning effect and the results of the experimental research are obtained to the followings: i) The cushioning effects could acqure to the reserch, if the compressible energy is more than kinetic ones. ii) The collision of piston and head cover could acqure to the research, if the kinetic energy is more than compressible iii) If the load increase to the rolling car, the cushion region pressures would increase and the dynamic force.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.892-900
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• 1998

This study was done to analyze the surface development of upper arm for planning sleeve armhole line. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The surface development by arm movements made the expansion and contraction of upper arm surface changes easily visible. Armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$and 135$^{\circ}$~180$^{\circ}$movements deviated from those of standard posture. 2. According to regression analysis, armhole lines on the upper arm were adapted to sleeve patten, following the axillary circumference line changed to biceps line. Sleeve cap length ranged from armhole/4+2.5cm to armhole/4$\pm$0.5cm. 3. Compared to Rim's pattern method, ascending and descending amounts of armhole lines were represented as fixed values.