• Title/Summary/Keyword: skirt silhouette

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A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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A Comparative Study of Tight Skirt Sewing Methods -Focusing on the Sewing Methods Shown in Reference Text Books on Clothing Configuration and used in Domestic Consumer Products- (타이트스커트 봉제방법에 관한 비교 연구 -의복구성 교재와 국내 브랜드 제품을 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Sun-Young;Choi, Young-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1510-1519
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    • 2007
  • This comparative study analyzes and compares tight skirt sewing methods which are found in the clothing configuration reference text books available in contemporary universities and which are used in commercially-available domestic consumer products. The study samples included 15 text books and 12 tight skirt consumer products of different brands on sale at three department stores in Seoul each of which had a belt, a back-centered zipper, and back double slits. The findings of the study are summarized as follows: First, text books mainly show very basic sewing methods of using zippers on both sides of the straight-lined waist belt. This indicates that it is necessary for such methods to be complemented so that they cover a recent variety of designs, materials, and sewing machines. For consumer products, the main sewing method is to use a curved waist belt and a console zipper in silhouette running across half the hipbone. Second, consumer products employ three different types of cutting and sewing methods for putting an inseam on the center of the back slit part: to leave the whole inseam hemmed in the back center, to cut the left side of the inseam to the upper part of the back slit, and to cut the inseam to both the upper parts of the back slit. However, a method shown in most of the sampled text books is to cut the inseam of the back center to both the upper parts of the back slit. Third, the way of finishing a bottom edge hem in the text books is to do slip-stitch, herringbone stitch, and slinting hemming, in order after doing over-lock stitch, or to cut the hem on the bias and then slip-stitch, while for the consumer products the most frequently used sewing method is to finish the bottom edge hem by doing secoui-stitch. Finally, while in the text books the method of stitching darts and tucks is used for lining, the main lining method used in consumer products is to make tucks only. Also in the way of stitching the side seams of lining or the seams of the back center, there is a difference between the two sample groups of text books and the consumer products: while the former suggests using both open seams and over-lock stitch, the latter is found to finish the seams using an over-lock stitch only.

A Study of Shilla(新羅)′s Naeoe(內衣), Danoe(短衣)

  • 권준희;조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.2
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    • pp.103-113
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    • 2002
  • Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

A Study on the Style Change of Koran Women's Traditional Costume (한국여성 전통복식의 양식변화에 관한 연구-개화기 이후의 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 황의숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.289-310
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    • 1995
  • The present study aims at investigating the style change of the Korean women's traditional costume and analyzing its character in accordance with the social changes during the period from the civilization in 1884 to the present. The design of the tranditional costume which might be formed in the era of the Three Kingdoms had been slowly modified, and the Korean jacket and skirt design was settled in the Chosun period. In the end of the Chosun period, the drastic social changes such as civilization and revolution, together with the introduction of western dresses, affected strongly the traditional costume design. This led to a change from the old dress design to the stylish and practical one because civilized women and high school girls wore the modified costume composed of long jacket and short skirt or western style dresses. In recent years after 1960's Korean women usually wore traditional costumes as ceremonial dresses be-cause the western style dresses replaced the tra-ditional costume in everyday life. After 1970's, however, the A-line silhouette, combined with ornaments, adapted to the traditional costume in order to emphasize women's beauty, thereby resulting in remarkable modification in the tra-ditional costume. In those days, the large pro-duction of various textiles such as nylon and tetron and the appearance of the traditional costume designers played an important role in developing beautiful traditional costume designs and bringing closer together with general public women. These recent design changes might be classified generally by the following three stages ; (1) "the period of settlement" (1965 1975), (2) "the period of maturity" (1976 1985), and (3) "the period of stabilization" (1986 1995). The costume design of each period was discussed and compared in detail according to historical events. From this study, inherent beauty of the Korean traditional costume can be recognized again, and clarified its position as our folkdress. It is also suggested that in future its modification should be achieved continuously in accordance with tra-dition and modern sense.h tra-dition and modern sense.

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A Study on the Women′s Underwear in the Later Chosun Dynasty (조선후기 여자속옷에 관한 연구)

  • Yoon Hyun-Jin;Cho Woo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.169-183
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    • 2004
  • This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

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A Study on Chima and Jeogori for Women appeared in Genre Pciture of Late Chosun Dynasty (조선후기 풍속화에 나타난 치마.저고리에 관한 연구)

  • 심화진
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.2
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    • pp.125-140
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    • 2000
  • The major findings of basic women wear in genre painting were ; 1. Due to the influence of Shill-Hak (practical science) philosophy, Jeogori became shorter and a tighter fit came to be the norm. 2,. The shortening of the Jeogori influenced a longer Chima with a wider span providing comfort in movement or at work. The end of the skirt was often held by one hand to the waist adding to comfort. This was called the Go-dul-chima(Lifted Chima). 3. Because the Geo-dul-chima exposed a portion of one underwear at the bottom of the dress this influenced the "irnamentation' of underpants and underskits. 4. Collars or lapels came in the form of Dang-ko, Kal, Mok-pan and Ban-Mokpan. Among there Dang-ko style collars were the most common which allows us to conclude that this was the most popular. 5. The most commonly used colors for Jeogori were white (39.8%) and jade(18.3%) . The most commonly used colors for CHima were deep blue(34.4%) and jade(20.4%) . The lower Chima used the darkercolors to give stability to the overall costume. 6. Clothing had the function of differentiating the classes. Only the Yang-ban were allowed to wear the Samhijang Jeogori and the Gob-Chima(double layered Chima) and the knotting of the Chima to the left. But the painting show that these rules were not adhered to in the strictest manner. With the bases of these types of chima and Jeogori can look at the characteristical beauty of the ordinary women during the late Cho-sun dynasty. First is the beauty which comes from mystery of those parts of body which can not be seen. A sense of subtle and sensual beauty as well as that coming from the enlargement of reduction of the upper body, narrow waist and abundant lower body parts creating an ideal silhouette of sexual charm. An expression of emotion through clothing by those who lived during those times.

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Historical Reconstruction of Noble Womans Yu(jacket) and Gun(skirt) on Wall Painting of Jang-Cheon No.1 Tomb in Goguryeo (고구려 장천1호분 귀부인의 유(襦)와 군(裙)의 재현에 관한 연구)

  • Lee, Ho Jung;Cho, Woo Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.3
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    • pp.32-46
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to propose a solution for Goguryeo costume and its materials, colors, patterns, and accessories, which have not been dealt with in precedent studies and were treated as irrelevant subjects. The specific object of reconstruction with identification from the historical viewpoint is noble woman's costume(Yu and Gun) on the mural paintings of Jang-Cheon No.1 tomb in Jip-An province. As above, the reconstruction process of Yu(Jacket) and Gun(Skirt) worn by noble woman as depicted on the mural painting of the Baek-Hee-Gi-Ak-Do(百戱伎樂圖) in Jang-Cheon No.1 ancient tomb is suggested in this study. The most important issue for consideration was how to represent and exhibit it so that it resembles the mural painting as closely as possible. And the problems that arose at the time were the ratio and silhouette, which revealed disparities between the one on the mural painting and the costumes reproduced with identification from a historical viewpoint. The most difficult aspect of this work was due to the fact that the actual mural paintings were not available for verification. Therefore accuracy on details such as structure, materials, colors, patterns and accessory were difficult to obtain. So a further analysis of patterns, silhouettes, materials and colors are required for the precise representation of costume and dress on the mural painting.

A study on the perception and design preference of new Hanbok one-piece dress (신한복 원피스에 대한 인식과 디자인 선호도에 관한 연구)

  • Heo, Seungyeun;An, Myungsook;Cha, SuJoung
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.23 no.1
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    • pp.129-142
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    • 2021
  • This study aims to identify the perception of New-Hanbok one-piece dresses that female consumers have purchased and to analyze the design preference based on design types and brands. Analysis was conducted on New-Hanbok brand websites, and additional research was carried out through a survey of 402 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 36 questions, which were divided into categories including pattern, color, material, and recognition of the one-piece dress. The research results are as follows. First, the preferred design form of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress was long length, medium fit, princess line, round git, rectangular git, regular width git, V neckline, regular width dongjeong, front closing with a wide overlap of the chest are a, narrow goreum, a skirt part with moderate crease spacing and number of pleats, A-line skirt silhouette, long and narrow sleeves, diagonal shoulder line, and a cuff at the end of each sleeve. Second, the preferred colors of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress were bright, neutral, or light and were predominately monochromatic Third, the preferred fabric conveyed a contemporary atmosphere through its print pattern. The most favored fabric material was cotton. Through this study, more systematic design development research should be carried out focusing on the current situation and identifying problems, thereby improving traditional culture.

A Study on Ball Joint Doll's Symbolism and Clothing Design (구체 관절 인형의 상징성과 인형 패션 디자인에 관한 연구)

  • Son Yi-Jeong;Lee Un-Young;Lee In-Seong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.7 s.106
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    • pp.42-53
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.

Body Satisfaction and Fitness Apparel Depending on Age and Silhouette in Women 20~50 Years of Age (20~50대 여성의 연령 및 실루엣에 따른 신체만족도와 의복적합성)

  • Kweon, Soo-Ae;Choi, Jong-Myoung;Sohn, Boo-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.34 no.3
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    • pp.480-491
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    • 2010
  • This study investigates the body satisfaction and fitness apparel depending on age and silhouette. The subjects were 254 females 20~50 years of age living in Chungju South Korea. There are various body types in women over the age of 35, the lower part of the body-development type, regular type, the upper part of the body-development type, and the rectangular body type. In addition, there is a lower satisfaction level in circumferences related with apparel fit, especially in the sleeve length, armhole, and crotch length. Therefore, a size system is needed that considers various body types in ready-to-wear clothing for middle-aged women. Design, color, and pattern are most important in clothing purchases by unmarried women, but the ease of laundry management and price discounts are the most significant for clothing purchases by married women. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the size-fit of sleeve length and shoulder width, but the lower part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the circumference of the waist, hip, abdominal, girth of skirt, and crotch length. The rectangular body type and the lower part of the body-development type are unsatisfactory in movement comfort, especially in hip girth and crotch length. The upper part of the body-development type is unsatisfactory in the movement comfort of the chest and elbow girth.