• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.145-165
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• 1990

This study examine closely conditions of costume between the Modernized period and Liberation with newspaper materials. Because newspaper generally appear society conditions in those days on rapid and across-the boad basis. The Modernized period is extremely change among history of costum (ordinance prohibiting top knots, allowance of foreign clothes putting on). Because this change have been spontaneously not by internal desired but Western input by the strong nation of imperialism to enclose Chosun, they was accepted by the general public later under the rule of Japaneses Imperialism. Consequently, study of costume play an important part periods between the Japanese annexation of Korea and Liberation. This study apply to newspaper characteric for costume, and closely examine an important costum condition of those days next time, and present costume material in those days that composed the account catalog appeared periods between the first publication(1920) of the Dong A II Bo, and in the year 1945, it is as follows. 1. Foreign clothes of men generally accept the general public on look at from form change, in the 1920's had come short Jackets and narrow throusers into fashion, in the 1930's had come trousers of generous waist band with broads shoulder and long Jackets. Catalog of Major clothes is as follows; Spring coat, Jacket, Vest, Shirt, etc. While pants had come trousers into fashion 2. Functional characteric of Foreign clothes was the possible acceptance of women's foreign clothes. It relate with much discussion to improve Korean development in those days and substitute foreign clothes for Korean clothes because of institence in those days to improve functional clothes life. 3. An improvement women's Korean clothes generally take aim at women's nipple liberation, substitute vest waist for skirt waist, appear seamless one-piece skirt of shade length, and long dress length of Jacket. 4. Children's clothes give an account of functional and sanitary conditions, handling method, washing method. 5. Clothes materials give account of foreign clothes material, artificial silk, furs, cotton fabrics, and etc. 6. Clothes management give an account of washing, keeping method, washing method of foreign clothes, and keeping of furs. 7. The hair generaly had come short hair into fashion in men's case, while accounts on long hair fashion of foreign nation effect in case of women. 8. Describing on beauty care manage primary beauty care, reform, plastic operation, and shade beauty care. Ideal beauty care deal with natural and dignified buauty care. 9. Accesaries (hat, handbag, handkerchief, gloves) change with fashion of clothes, it rapid more than clothes fashion. 10. On encouragement of abolition of white clothes and putting on dyeing clothes, because of economic defect of white clothes, psychology and beauty consequently, white clothes is on the rise abolition. In national level almost substitute dyeing clothes for control and improvement of people of all social standings consequently, dress and its ornaments conditions in those days analyzed account of Dong-A II Bo accept the foreign clothes that introduced internal country of the whole century, and substitute dyeing for white clothes. Costume condition in those days appear the mixed conditions of Korean clothes and Foreign clothes. In the 1920's is the first consideration dress and its ornaments form of Korean clothes. As later goes on foreign is given much weight in the whole clothes life. Account of foreign clothes managemental ways appear in the 1920's, while those facts prove the point that appeared the account that always dealed with concrete content of foreign fashion in the 1930's.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.65-80
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• 1999

In this study, the researcher studied the historical background and the traditional culture about dress and ornament of Yunnan Province of China. The Results of the study are as follows. 1. In the Past, Derung's dress was very simple due to the influence of various factors, such as geography and history. Men wore shorts and covered diagonally a piece of cloth from left shoulders to right armpits and tied up the two ends on chests. Women covered crisscross two pieces of cloth from both shoulders to knee. 2. Achang people's dress and adornment has its own unique characteristic. Generally, men wear Jackets with buttons down the front and black trousers. Unmarried men like to wear white turbans, while most of married men usually wear dark blue ones. Women usually wear tight-sleeve blouses with buttons down the front and skirts. Unmarried women wear the hair in braids coil them on the top of their heads. They wear short blouses and trousers. Married women wear their hair Into buns and like to entwine black or blue cloth into high trubans. They wear short blouses and knee-length straight skirts. Achang knife enjoys high reputation and has a long history and an exquisite workmanship. All the men like to wear it. 3. The dress and adornment of the Lahu nationality has both the characteristic of farming culture and the style of nomadic culture of early times. Men usually wear short shirts with round necks and buttons down the front, loose-legged trousers, turbans or dark blue cloth caps Women's dress and adornment can be categorized into two styles. One is black cloth gown with buttons diagonally on the right front and waist-length slits on both sides. The edges of fronts and cuffs are edged with Silver ornaments and lace. They also wear trousers. The other is short blouse with round neck and short opening on th right front, straight skirt and colourful leggings with embroidered patterns. 4. The Hani people, men and women, old and young, like black colour and are fond of wearing black clothes. Men usually wear shirts with buttons down the front and trousers, entwining their heads with black or white cloth. The elderly people wear calottes. Women wear cloth blouses, skirts and trousers or shorts. Slight differences exist in the clothing and adornments according to region, branch and age 5. Blang people's dyeing technique with an exquisite method has a long history. Men wear dark blue long sleeve shirts with round necks and buttons down the front or arranged diagonally on the front and loose-legged trousers. Elderly men wear big turbans wdress and adornment varies greatly in different regions. 6. The Lisu people culture of dress and adornment has some unique characteristics. The styles and colours of their dress and adornment differ slightly from place to place. In the Nujiang area, Women wear black velvet Jackets over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and long pleated ramie skirts. Men usually wear wraparound ramie gowns, with center vent, made of fabrics alternated with white and black cross stripes. They also wear cloth waistbands and trohile youngsters keep their hair short. Women's users. In the Lushui area, the dress and adornment is similar to that in the Nujing region, but women wear aprons and trousers instead of skirts. 7. The Nu people dress and adornment is simple but elegant Women are proficient in ramie-weaving. Men usually wear gowns With overlapping necks, knee-length trousers and leggings. They like to wear their hair long and entwine dark blue or white turbans. Women wear black and red vests over blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and ankle-length skirts. They also wear their hair long, make it into braids, and entwine dark blue or colourful cloth turbans. 8. Pumi men usually wear ramie shirts With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front, loose trousers and white sheepskin vests. Some also wear overcoats made of "pulu". Women's dress and adornment varies in different areas. In the Lanping and Weixi regions, women wear white short blouses with buttons arranged diagonally on the front and dark brown embroidered vests. They also wear trousers and blue or black cloth turbans. In the Ninglang and Yongsheng regions, women wear hemmed blouses With buttons arranged diagonally on the right front and drape sheepskin capes. They also wear white pleated skirts and use broad colourful cloth as their waistbands.

• 한국해양환경ㆍ에너지학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.45-54
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• 2006

오일펜스에 전개 장치를 부착하여 1척의 선박이 오일펜스를 예인전장할 수 있는 방안을 실험을 통해 검토한 것으로, 실험에 사용된 전개장치의 형태와 규모는 오일펜스에 마치는 예인 저항을 측정한 결과와 선박에 설치된 오일펜스 윈치 드럼의 크기를 고려하여 설계하였다. 전개장치의 성능 조사를 위한 현장 실험은 B형과 C형 오일펜스를 대상으로 계산 값의 약 91%와 75% 수준인 $3.0m^2$와 $6.0m^2$ 규모의 전개 장치를 제작하여 수행하였다. 그 결과,2척의 선박을 예인하였을 때, 예인 속도(v) 변화에 따른 B형 오일펜스의 장력 값, T(kg)는 양 선박간의 거리가 100m와 50m일 경우 $T=920v^{1.1},\;T=500v^{0.9}$로 나타났으며, 이를 근거로 계산된 B형 및 C형 오일펜스용 전개 장치 하나의 규모는 $3.3m^2$ 와 $8.0m^2$였다. B형 및 C형 오일펜스 양끝에 전개 장치와 예인줄 200m를 부착하여 예인전장하였을 때 오일펜스 개구부의 최고 폭은 예인 속도 1.5 kt에서 평균 약 114m와 95m(개구부 폭/오일펜스 전체 길이: 33%와 57%)를 나타내 전개장치가 유출유를 충분히 포집할 수 있는 전개 성능을 보인 것으로 평가되었다. 그러나 예인줄 길이 변화에 따른 오일펜스 개구부 폭의 증가율은 예인줄 길이가 50m에서 100m로 늘어났을 때 약 31%와 40% 정도로 크게 높아지지만, 예인줄이 100m에서 150m, 200m로 길어질수록 증가율이 크게 둔화되어 100m내외로 예인줄을 유지하는 것이 합리적이라고 판단된다. 또한 예인 속도가 1.5 kt 이상일 경우 모든 오일펜스에서 전개 성능이 저하되어 개구부 폭이 감소하였고, 오일펜스 일부분이 침강하거나 월파, 스커트 날림 현상 등 오일펜스의 전장 형상이 불안정해져 전개 장치 운용에 합리적인 예인 속도는 1.5 kt 이내로 볼 수 있다.

• 한국지반공학회논문집
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• 제27권10호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2011

버켓기초는 현재 해양 구조물의 앵커나 해양 풍력발전의 기초로 광범위하게 쓰이고 있다. 그러나, 지금까지 버켓기초에 대한 설계 방법은 명확하게 제시되지 않았다. 그러므로, 본 연구에서는 범용 유한요소 해석 프로그램인 ABAQUS(2010)를 이용하여 점성토 지반에 설치된 버켓기초의 지지력 및 하중-변위거동에 대해 분석하였다. 버켓기초의 지지력에 영향을 주는 매개변수로 기초지름에 대한 근입깊이 비(L/D)를 선정하고 L/D 비를 0.25~ 1.0로 변화시키며 수직방향 압축과 수평방향의 지지거동을 분석하였다. 수치해석 결과 버켓기초의 지지력은 L/D비에 큰 영향을 받으며 L/D비가 0.25에서 1.0으로 증가함에 따라 수직방향 지지력은 약 40%, 수평방향 지지력은 약 90% 증가하는 것으로 나타났다. 수직하중이 작용하는 경우 버켓기초의 지지력은 깊은 기초와 유사하게 선단지지력과 주변마찰력을 분리하여 산정할 수 있었다. 그리고, 수평하중이 작용하는 경우 L/D비가 0.25 인 경우 기초의 수평이동 경향이 지배적이지만, L/D비가 0.5 이상으로 증가하면 기초의 회전파괴 경향이 지배적인 것으로 나타났다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• 생명과학회지
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.778-787
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• 2004

유기물이 풍부한 토양에서 분리하여 동정한 Bacillus stearothermophilus DL-3와 미강을 사용하여 미생물 제재를 제조하고 미생물 제재의 처리가 상추(적치마 상추)와 배추(가락 신1호 배추)재배 토양의 미생물상에 미치는 영향 및 상추와 배추의 생장에 미치는 영향을 조사하였다. 미생물 제재를 처리 한 6주 후, 미생물 제재를 처 리 한 토양에 존재하는 토양 미생물의 총 균수는 미생물 제재를 처리하지 않은 토양에 존재하는 토양 미생물의 총 균수에 비하여 미생물 제재를 처리한 양에 비례하여 많음을 확인하였다. 미생물 제재를 처리한 토양에서 재배한 상추와 배추의 생육이 미생물 제재를 처리하지 않은 토양에서 재배한 상추와 배추에 비하여 빠름을 확인하였다. 미생물 제재를 처리한 토양에서는 처리하지 않은 토양에 비하여 전체적인 토양 미생물 수의 증가와 작물의 생장에 유용한 종류의 미생물이 상대적으로 증가하기 때문에 상추와 배추의 생장을 촉진시킨다고 판단된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.113-124
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• 1996

This research was designed to find out what is a distictive feature of the design elements of Korean women's costume and its influence by analizing the trend of Korean women's constume during the period of 1890 and 1995. The research was analized by a total of 854 random samples of clothing styles collected from materials in the museums and from articles of three leading newspapers and one of the best women's magazines in Korea. The changing trend of Korean women's costume was found out to be as follows: 1. In around 1910s, the trend of Korean women's costume has been changed into two-tier structure of both Korean and Western styles, and the typical and traditional Korean women's street wears such as 'Chang-ot' and 'Tsdechima' have been gradually diminished. 2. From 1920s, length of the Korean skirt, which was unnecessarily long and inconvenient, has been getting shorter for the convenience of walking. In addition, Korean women's underwear has become simplified, and sports wear could be seen for the first time in Korea. 3. During 1960s, the Western clothing styles have been increased rather than Korean styles as the street wear of the Korean women. 4. In 1970s, blue jeans, mini-skirts and casual wears have become a trend or fashion for women in Korea. 5. In 1980s, a fashion of unisex mode has arrived in this country, and from the year of 1987, wearing of panties among the Korean women has been increased rather than skirts wearing for the street wear. 6. During 1990s, various forma of complex styles came into being in such styles as so-called 'orange class style,' 'protruding navel T-shirts' and 'runner wear speedy.' From mid-1990s, Korean women have turned out to prefer the cute and light costumes by placing emphasis on the image of intellectual, professional and functional wears. The changing special feature of the Korean women's clothing designs could be distinctively observed during 1960s as the modernization policies in Korea have been processed during the period. The clothing trend before 1960 was to change and to solve problems of inconvenient and impractical wears, but the trend after 1960 was seen as a change to confirm a trend of the world fashion. From mid-1990s, however, preference of Korean women's self-conceited conception socially and an unquestionable changing pattern of Korean women's life.

• 복식
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• 제17권
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• pp.29-43
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• 1991

Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제3권4호
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• pp.147-160
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• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.

• 동굴
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• 제74호
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• pp.23-31
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• 2006

(1) Kaeusetgul Cave in Kimnyong-Ri, Jeju-Do, Korea. Kaeuset-gul Cave (KC) is situated in NNE area of the Manjang-gul cave (125m a.s.l.). Kaeuset-gul Cave lies at $126^{\circ}45'22"$ E in longitude and $33^{\circ}33'09"$ N in latitude. The coast belong Kimnyeong-Ri, Kujwa-eup, Jeju-Do. Altitude of the cave-entrance is 10m and length of the cave is 90m. Lava hand-specimens of KC are studied by X-ray fluorescence analysis (XRF). Average major chemical components of specimens from KC is as follows (wt.%); $SiO_2=47.03$, $TiO_2=3.16$, $Al_2O_3=18.41$, FeO*=13.53, MnO=0.14, MgO=5.05, CaO=8.66, $Na_2O=2.81$, $K_2O=0.67$, $P_2O_5=0.55$ in KC. Polarizing microscopic studyindicates that these specimens are described of alkali-basalt. (2) Tachibori Fuketsu (Cave) in Shizuoka Prefecture, Fuji Volcano, Japan Tachibori Fuketsu lies attoward the south in skirt of the Fuji volcano, $138^{\circ}42'04"$ east longitude and $35^{\circ}18'00"$ north latitude. The location of cave entrance is 2745, Awakura, Fujinomiya-shi, Shizuoka Prefecture. The above sea level and length of Tachibori Fuketsu are 1,170m and 82m. Average major chemical components of specimens from cave areas follows (Total 100 wt.%) ; ($SiO_2$=50.52, $TiO_2$=1.69, $Al_2O_3$=15.47, FeO*=13.13, MnO=0.20, MgO=5.97, CaO=9.17, $Na_2O$=2.52, $K_2O$=0.94 and $P_2O_5=0.40).$ Polarizing microscopic study indicates that these specimens may belong to tholeiite-basalt series. According to polarizing microscopic study, Au (Augite), P1 (Plagioclase), and O1 (Olivine) are contained as phenocryst minerals. (3) Gorely Cave in Kamchatka Peninsula, Russia Gorely caldera is located at the southeastern part of Kamchatka Peninsula, about 75km southwest of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskiy.. Gorely lava caves are situated in NHE area of Mt. Gorely volcano (1829m a.s.1.). One of lava cave (Go-9612=K-1) lies at $158^{\circ}00'22"$ east longitude and $52^{\circ}36'18"$ north latitude. The elevation of cave entrance is about 990m a.s.1. and the main cave extends in the NNW direction for about 50m by 15m wide and 5m in depth. The cave of K-3is near the K-1 cave. "@Lava hand-specimens K-1 and K-3 caves are studied by X-ray fluorescence analysis and polarizing microscopic observation. Average major chemical components of specimens from these caves are as follows (wt.%) ;($SiO_2$=55.12, $TiO_2$=1.25, $Al_2O_3$=16.07, T-FeO* =9.41, MnO=0.16, MgO=5.01, CaO=7.21, $Na_2O$=3.39, $K_2O$=1.92, $P_2O_5$=0.45) and these values indicate that the Gorely basaltic andesite belong to high alumina basalt. Polarizing microscopic study indicates that these specimens are described of Augite andesite.