• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.707-714
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• 2004

This study was carried out to research the actual condition of narrator models' wearing uniform, targeting on the narrator models who are being currently active and are from 19-year-old to 30-year-old. A poll was performed through visiting internet circles and spots, and the characteristic of objects, the form of uniform, attitude on uniform, dissatisfaction index on wearing uniform and preference index on wearing uniform were researched. It was carried out from August 18, 2003 to August 31, 2003. In order to perform this study, 161 questionnaires were used in all, and frequency analysis was implemented using SPSS 10.0. The objects of study were composed of female. Those who are from 21-year-old to 25-year-old accounted for 74.5%, and those who have career from 2 years to 3 years accounted for 75.5%. In respect to attitude on wearing uniform, affirmative answers, affirmative answers, such as a sense of belonging, a pride in activity and increase of efficiency, accounted for 68.8%. On the other hand, in respect to a harmonization between uniform and work, just the 39.8-percent showed affirmative reaction. Concerning the functionality of uniform, such as retaining warmth and ventilating, dissatisfaction index showed very high value; it is judged that it should be improved henceforth. Working postures were researched, following the order of standing posture and arm-using posture. In inconvenient actions, bending down and moving arms were orderly pointed out. With regard to the dissatisfaction of size, busts, the length of skirt and waist girth were orderly pointed out. Likewise, considering the parts of which room is required, bust, hip girth and waist girth were orderly pointed out. As to the points that should be bettered, design and functionality were orderly pointed out. In respect to materials of uniform, sweat-absorption material, light material and well-ventilated material were orderly suggested.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.756-764
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze of size and patterns of ready to wear basic for middle age women. For this purpose, I select 9 brands and analyze the basic skirts size system marketed in 2002 spring in Korea. To study the actual size system, I have compared size labeling, which I researched, with Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. And I also have compared body measurement with the product size. To study the pattern, I have classified the composition of the skirt into 24 items. The different result shows between this study and Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. The waist circumference is smaller than it should be, and the hip circumference is larger than it should be. As I have examined the body measurement and the product size, variability of the waist circumference depends on the location of the waistline. For the hip circumference, I have found that both the body measurement and the product size are same, or the product size is smaller than the body measurement. Both cases have been found to be over 67%. I have classified the analysis of the pattern into four components; circumference, relevance to waist line, dart, and length. For the waist circumference, the same size of the front and the back is 44.4%, and making the front larger is 44.4% also. In the hip circumference, the identical size of the front and the back is 66.7% and the larger size of back is 22.2%. Regarding darts placement, it is moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.3~3.2 cm, the length of darts is 7.2~12.7 cm.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.1006-1013
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• 2008

This study is basic material for development of a smart girdle. Through the intentionally sampling of 313 consumers from teenagers to the forties who have experienced wearing girdles, lifestyles on consumer's age, attitude to health, favor of warm functional girdle, and possibility to acceptance were surveyed and analyzed by questionnaire. The result of the study are summarized as followed. 1. Analysis about lifestyle with warmth and attitude to health showed that subjects in their thirties and forties have higher than teenagers and the twenties in frequency of distribution. This means people are tend to have more attention to warmth and health as they grow older. 2. In result about analysis of characteristic of wearing girdle, subjects were prefer girdle made of cotton which have superior permeability and hygroscopic property. The reason that wearing girdle is to complement of weak points of body somatotype in the thirties and forties and feel the stability during menstrual period in the twenties and teenagers. The time zone of putting on girdle is mainly winter while one is out wearing one-piece or skirt. 3. When surveyed about the preference to functional warmth girdle and possibility to acceptance, the results were that the subjects in their thirties were first, forty something was second, followed by subjects in their twenties, teenagers. It was shown that over 60% subjects were highly distributed. With regard to necessity of functional warmth girdle, every age groups were shown over 3.6 at average. This result was inferred that subjects had positive possibility to acceptance about functional warmth smart girdle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.979-988
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the lower body size and forms of married women in their thirties who have experienced pregnancy and parturition. Their measurements derived from the direct anthropometry and indirect photographic measures were compared to those of 20's. Improving consumer satisfaction for missy brand, especially in fitness of skirt and pants, some lower body classification were presented. The results were as follows : 1. The characteristics of lower body showed many differences by individuals especially in depth, girth, length and angle measures rather than height and breadth measures. Many items including index, calculations and angles revealed significant differences compared to those of 20's. Several breadth items, crotch length had distinct increase than those of women in twenties. Flattened buttocks side silhouette from waist to hip, buttocks drooping and decrease of inclination implied the influence of pregnancy, parturition and aging. 2. We hardly find out sizing system differences between missy brand and miss brand. Based on waist and hip girth measurements of subjects, sizing system of missy apparel wasn't suitable for their body size. Excessive drop(hip girth-waist girth) of missy brands, 25~30 cm, was almost the same to the drop of miss brands. 3. To improve the size satisfaction of missy women, we classified the lower body into 5 types according to drop, buttocks angle and hip length. Type 1 was small waist with large buttocks projection, and hip length was close to an average. Type 2 was small waist with medium buttocks projection, and the hip length was close to an average. Type 3 was medium waist, with average projection of the buttocks and hip length. Type 4 was large waist, projection of the buttocks and the hip length were close to an average. Type 5 was large waist, projection of the buttocks was small and the hip length was close to an average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.56-68
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• 2016

Popular culture has symbolic meaning and has been constructed through different mass media. Newspapers played a significant role in 1950s and 1960s public culture. In particular, editorial cartoons in newspapers expressed social aspects of the age implicitly through satire and criticism. This study examines delivered culture by reflecting the past social aspects and inquiring on clothing featured in the editorial cartoon "Gobau". As for a research method, literature research was conducted on clothing of the age with a review of "Gobau". As for a research range, examination was done based on the complete works of Gobau composed of 5 volumes published as a first edition by Hankookmunhwasa on November, 1973. Early "Gobau" cartoons from 1951-1963 were published in 5 volumes; therefore, research was conducted for the era from 1950s to the early 1960s. Clothing expressed in "Gobau" were reviewed, classified into formative characteristics and internal meaning. Internal meaning was examined by dividing into the expression of social aspects and criticism of society. The research findings are as follows. First, clothing in "Gobau" reflected characteristic in direct manner. There was a coexistence of Hanbok and western-styled, clear distinction between men's trousers and women's skirt. Besides, various kinds of women's western-styled dress appeared in the 1960s. Second, they showed the dress culture that reflected past social aspects. Many aspects were included to reconstruct old and worn clothes due to scarce resources after the Korean War, and cherishing clothes, buying fabric directly to making clothes, making clothes from dressmaking shop, and restrictions on imported goods and luxury items. Third, the study also examined the social norms for fashion. It contained negative perspectives on women wearing pants, short skirts, and new hair styles (like perms) from western culture as well as lipstick.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.275-286
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of costume and its ornaments which are appeared in the traditional wedding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav, that is consisted of Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian from the 19 to the early of 20C. In this study, many different procedures of wedding ceremony with a various kind of wedding costumes are shown. A wedding custom of Eastern Slav had been developed by a intermixed style of the Christianism and a paganism. The wedding custom is organized by the 3 sequential procedures; before a wedding, a wedding, after a wedding Their wedding means the union of the bride into the bridegrooms family in order to establish a new family. Therefore, the wedding costumes have been developed according to this, and the head gears have developed as a symbol which presents the meaning. A brides costume is composed of a head gear, \"Lubaha\", and \"Sarafan\" or a skirt. A bridegrooms one is made up of \"Lubaha\", and trousers. These costumes are kept through their whole life, and are worn in every important ceremonial period. Even though, the wedding customs and the wedding costumes of Russia, Belarus, and Ukrain have been developed by their general commonness, there are regionally certain differences. It is one of the important research object of the Eurasian era in the view point of culture and ethnographic, that to know the symbolism appeared in the traditional weeding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav.ding costumes of Eastern Slav.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.60-82
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to confirm and practical use the street fashion design analysis system(Web-SFAS) which was designed in preceding research. Web-SFAS was developed to analyze data fast, accurately, conveniently, and to provide them to related fields by using Information Technology (IT) in fashion design industry. By inputting, sorting and analyzing actual image data into this system, it purposes to check if it needs to be corrected and to verify its operation and application. For this study, 191 street fashion image and paper questionaries were collected on Oct. 16th from 4pm to 7pm in Gyeong-Nam area(4 markets), 2004. This study was processed basically cross research(real time research). The collected data and paper questionaries were analysed by 4 experts who had over Master Degrees, and the results were input to the Web-SFAS system. This system analyzed the results as follow ; First, Top is usually wear T-shirts, cardigan item of soft material, Bottom is usually wear Skirt, jean item of hard material. Second, As for shoes, pumps were the most popular, and as for accessories, diverse items such as shoulder bag, jewelry, and totebag were preferred. Third, fashion image, most people wear a sportive casual style with semi-casual in a close second. Therefore, We also expect that this data can be used a prediction for the next seasons design trends and needs, especially if we make an online database through this development system, then it will be easier to access faster and more accurate fashion information.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1582-1592
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to suggest production planning model for women's apparel manufacturer, which are relevant to the situation of Korean clothing industry. The research was based on simulation method. The basic model for the simulation was developed based on the empirical data from six production fm. After verifying the basic model, low alternative production plans went through trial run. In order to suggest the application of these alternative production plans for various style numbers and lot sizes, the simulation results were compared in terms of product efficiency and product cost. The four alternative plans were as follows: 1. The first alternative was to spread out work loads among workers in order to resolve bottlenecks in work flow. So this was suited to manufacturers that had constant production without regard to changing seasons. 2. The second alternative was to merge the skirt and trouser production, which require less work load, in one line. In this line, a few machine was justified by production improvement. It was suited to cases which producted various style suits. The third and fourth alternative were using another subcontractor for assembling inner shell garments. These was compatible in manufacturers which had to product more styles and sizes of trousers and skirts than those of upper garments. 3. The third alternative was to reassign the same workers in production line. Thus, production was increased. 4. The fourth alternative was to except two worker in production line, so expenses of worker's wage was decreased. The four alternatives could be one of the cost effective manufacturing plans according to manufacturer situations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.125-136
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the size system of women's suits on the market in China and the levels of satisfaction on the fit experienced by Chinese customers, and thereby to look into the problems relating to the fit of Chinese women's suits. The findings were as follows: 1. The size fur women's suits currently on sale in China was indicated by the number by all manufacturers. The size of the largest production was in the order of 165-88A, 160-84A, and 170-92A for jackets; 160-68A, 165-72A, and 170-76A far pants and skirt. 2. The survey on the recognition of the size for ready-made suits showed the response rate of $91.1\%$ for jackets, $58.7\%$ for pants, and $56.3\%$ for skirts, indicating the higher recognition level in the measure for jackets in comparison with pants. 3. The survey on the satisfaction with the fitness for each item of women's suits(jackets, pants, and skirts) showed the satisfaction levels of $3.05\~3.63$ for all items, above the ordinary figures. Of the three items, the satisfaction level of pants was lowest. 4. The survey on the repair frequency for each item of suits showed $53.2\%$ for jackets, $52.5\%$ for pants, and $30.4\%$ for skirts, that of the skirts being lower than those of the other items.