• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.329-343
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• 2004

Recently, our society has prominently raised the desire to well-being life since not only our economical situations are better than before, but environmental pollution become serious. In well-being trends, the natural or nature-related products are also issued on their usages as bio-/raw materials for our living industries, such as cosmetics, household goods, and so on. Especially, various materials which comes from medicinal plants has been discovered their physiological properties and validated their functions. Thus, they have been subjected to several processes, including extraction, isolation and concentration, and popularly introduced to cosmetic industry. In these reasons, a variety of cosmetic Products using natural materials has been developed, which are focused on whitening, wrinkle improvement, and anti-aging. In this report, we present a brief review of the function and classification of natural products interested in until now, and introduce the natural materials for cosmetics having physiological activities on skin, including Fructan, Acrea extract, Portulaca extract, Licorce extract, Dandelion extract, Ulmus extract, SC-glucan, Arbutin, and Sophora extract.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.321-327
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• 2017

This study was carried out to develop a stable plant-derived natural sunscreen (BHC-S) that replaces the artificially synthesized organic sunscreen agents. The natural sunscreen (BHC-S), which is composed of peanut extract, Centella asiatica extract, and Ecklonia stolonifera extract, has the same level of ultraviolet shielding effect as PARSOL MCX-XR (OMC), which is a synthetic sunscreen. and has safety against skin. MultiFunctional effect such as and anti-wrinkle improvement. Thus, it can be used as raw material for natural cosmetics for ultraviolet ray blocking, and anti-aging.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.82-91
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• 2009

Objectives : The purpose of this study is to investigate whitening effects and anti-wrinkle effects of a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines. Methods : In the first study, a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines were screened for their inhibitory activities against the tyrosinase. In the second study, a few 80% ethanol extracted herbal medicines were screened for their inhibitory activities against elastase. Results : 1. We showed 28%, 27% and 19% inhibitions of mushroom tyrosinase at 500 $\mu$g/ml concentration of ASR, AIF and ABR extracts and they were showed higher anti-tyrosinase activity than arbutin's. We also could observe that the decreased mushroom tyrosinase activities in RR, CML, LR, AGR and TH extracts. 2. RR, AF and ABR (final concentrstion 1 mg/ml) were appeared 60%, 98%, 83% of inhibitions of elastase activity, and they were showed higher anti-elastase activity than that of ursolic acid. We also could observe that the decreased elastase activities in AIF, AR, LR and CML extracts. Conclusions : These results suggest that ASR, AIF and ABR extracts contribute to the anti-melanin activities and represent potential sources of whitening agent, and RR, AF and ABR extracts contribute to the anti-elastase activities and represent potential sources of anti-wrinkle agent. These results suggest that some herbal medicines could be strong potential sources of inhibition about anti-aging and whitening effects for the skin.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.279-285
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• 1999

Retinoids in anti-wrinkle cosmetics are widely used for the treatment of the photoaging skin these days, but very unstable in the presence of water. Multilamellar liquid crystal vesicles consisted of $poly(oxyethylene)_{15}oleyl$ ether $(POE_{15}OE)$ or $poly(oxyethylene)_{15}stearyl$ ether $(POE_{15}SE)$, cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) and cholesterol or oils were prepared to increase the stability of retinyl acetate or retinyl palmitate. $POE_{15}SE-CSA-Water$ systems were more unstable than $POE_{15}SE-CSA-Water$ systems due to the bended structure of oleyl groups. For the modification of vesicles, cholesterol was added. The enthalpy values were decreased reaching to zero and the water permeability of systems was decreased, but the stabilizaton of retinyl acetate was not greatly improved. The stability of retinyl acetate may depend on its location in the structure. Various oils were added for further stabilization and isopropyl myristate was most effective. In practice, retinyl palmitate showed better stability in the same vesicle than retinyl acetate, and the improved vesicles could be used for the anti-wrinkle cosmetics

• Korean Journal of Acupuncture
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.107-118
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• 2009

Objectives : This study was performed to investigate physiology, pathology and clinical applications for cosmetology in Traditional Chinese Medicine. We hope most clinicians practicing cosmetic acupuncture to understand theoretical background well and to treat cosmetic diseases more diversely by this paper. Methods : We collected useful informations from 35 papers in Chinese at website www.cnki.net about TCM treatments including acupuncture, moxibustion and herbal medicine. And we could see important factors connected with physiology, pathology and clinical applications within this field. Conclusions : Liver, lung, stomach, mental disorders and yin-deficiency constitution were connected each other in cosmetic physiology. Blood stasis and congestion were thought highly in cosmetic pathology. In clinical applications, wet cupping therapy on the acupoints located in the back line of Governor Vessel(GV), ear-acupuncture, acupuncture using local facial acupoints, pharmacopuncture, moxibustion were used diversely for each case with cosmetic disorders. Especially, local acupoints and remote acupoints were selected at the same time for wrinkle care. And studies on plastic surgery sequelae, dark skin, acne and melasma were more published than those on wrinkle care.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.26 no.7
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• pp.1224-1233
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• 2016

The present study assessed the effects of an aqueous extract of Acanthopanax koreanum root (AE) and of AE following fermentation by lactic acid bacteria (Lactobacillus plantarum and Bifidobacterium bifidum) (AEF) on human skin fibroblast HS68 cells exposed to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation and oxidative stress. AEF effectively antagonized the senescence-associated β-galactosidase staining and upregulation of p53 and p21^Cip1/WAF1 induced by UVB or H₂O₂ treatment in HS68 cells. It also exhibited excellent antioxidant activities in radical scavenging assays and reduced the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species induced by UVB or H₂O₂ treatment. The antioxidant and antisenescent activities of AEF were greater than those of nonfermented A. koreanum extract. AEF significantly repressed the UVB- or H₂O₂-induced activities of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and -3, overexpression of MMP-1, and nuclear factor κB (NF-κB) activation. This repression of NF-κB activation and MMP-1 overexpression was attenuated by a mitogen-activated protein kinase activator, suggesting that this AEF activity was dependent on this signaling pathway. Taken together, these data indicated that AEF-mediated antioxidant and anti-photoaging activities may produce anti-wrinkle effects on human skin.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.61-72
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• 2003

In cosmetic area, retinol is prominent ingredient for anti-wrinkle but unstable against light, heat, oxygen and so on. Therefore the stabilization of retinol is required. Here, we capsulated doubly retinol in the SLM(Skin Lipid Matrix) that makes three dimensional lamellar structure similar to skin, after formation of primary liposome (retinol-nanoemulsion). First, we make primary liposome from retinol / hydrogenated lecithin / polysorbate20 / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / ethanol / and so on, and the mean diameter to 70 nm, using microfluidizer passed three times at 800 Bar, repeatedly. Then we produce DC-liposome (doubly capsulated-liposome) that was encapsulated primary liposome with SLM made of hydrogenated phosphatidyl choline / caprylic ＆ capric triglyceride / 1, 3-butylene glycol / ceramide3 / cholesterol /etc. We measured for color stability against light and heat with chromameter. As a result of this experiment, we observed DC-liposome was more than from 1.5 to 3 times as stable as general liposome. Livability of retinol has improved from 2 to 6 times when we analyzed it by HPLC. Also, penetration effect of DC-liposome has improved.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.319-329
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• 2003

Ursolic acid (UA) and oleanolic acid (OA) are pentacyclic triterpenoids which are widely distributed in plants, and their derivatives are aglycones of many naturally occurring saponins. It is known that pentacyclic acids may possibly enhance the mechanical barrier functions of cell membranes in plants. Recently, it has been reported that OA and UA have interesting biological activities on skin, such as anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle activities. Since triterpenoids are extremely insoluble and their solubility problem limits skin-care application, OA and UA were encapsulated in liposomes via micelle-to-vesicle transition to overcome poorly soluble property and enhance biological efficacy. Optimal molar ratio of OA to lecithin was found to exist for producing liposomes of small hydrodynamic size and liposomal suspensions without recrystallized precipitation of OA. From electron micrograph and dynamic light scattering studies, reconstituted OA-containing liposomes without severe mechanical treatment showed small hydrodynamic size about 150 nm. Wide-angle X-ray diffraction coupled with dynamic light scattering revealed that optimal amount of OA in liposome was 25.4 mole %. In biological evaluation, OA-containing liposome significantly increased filaggrin and transglutaminase as markers of keratinocyte differentiation in epidermal layer of hairless mouse, whereas ursolic acid-containing liposome did not show noticeable increase of filaggrin and transglutaminase compared to empty liposome. It is concluded that nano-scaled liposomes containing triterpenoids were spontaneously prepared by vesicular transition from mixed micelle and liposomal triterpenoids can enhance skin absorption of triterpenoid and biological efficacy.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.37 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2005

Ultraviolet (UV) induces photo aging, erythema, sunburn, photo-toxicity, photo-allergy, and skin tumor, To investigate photo-protective effects of AmorePacific Beauty-03 (APB-03; mixture of red ginseng extract powder and soybean extract powder) on UV-induced damaged skins, 40 SKH hairless female mice were orally administered APB-03 or saline five times a week and irradiated with UV three times per week far up to 12 weeks. Visible skin changes and skin damage in dermis and epidermis by replica image analysis and histological analysis. In APB-03-treated group, better skin, negative replica appearance and less wrinkle formation were observed compared to the UV control group. These results demonstrate oral administration of APB-03 have photo-protective effects on UV-damaged hairless mouse skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.373-383
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• 2022

Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED. In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 ㎍/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 ㎍/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 ㎍/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 ㎍/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.