• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2014

At present, there are few research papers on skin penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients. What is worse is that in vivo studies are hard to find. In this study, we measured skin epidermal penetration of cosmeceutical ingredients using in vivo Raman spectroscopy and compared with the results obtained from experiments using in vitro franz cell. Results showed that ascorbyl-2-glucoside, retinol, retinyl palmitate, and kojic acid were good for penetration ratio in measurement in vitro and retinol, vitamin C, and arbutin were good in measurement in vivo. Among them, retinol was best in skin penetration in vivo experiment using Raman spectroscopy and ascorbyl-2-glucoside was best in skin penetration in vitro experiment using Franz cell system. It is estimated that the differences were originated from the experimental procedures of two different methods; in vivo Raman experiment can be sensitive to the effect of epidermis and dermis as characteristics of matter by estimating the stratum corneum and in vitro measurement is evaluation of material to penetrate skin of hairless mouse. However, most penetration barrier is the stratum corneum, thus it is important to examine movement of material in the stratum corneum. We expect that these results provided useful information for many cosmetic related research.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.97-100
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• 1997

These days, the raw materials that have the cell recovering effect are used commonly in cosmetics. In this study, six materials were rested for the characteristics of recovering effect both on vivo and in vitro. Tested raw materials were Soypol, 3-APPA, Apple extract, Polygonatum japonicum extract, Scutellarkd baicalensis extract, Aloe extract. Among these materials, Soypol and 3-APPA were synthesized and others were made by extraction at the Pacific R&D Center. Human forearm skin and cultured skin cell were damaged by sodium lauryl sulfare and then raw materials were applied for open treatment on SLS damaged human skin or cells. The recovering effects of raw materials in vivo were evaluated by measuring transepidermal water loss, skin hydration and erythema and in vitro effects of proliferationg cells were assessed by neutral red uptake assay. In the in vivo study, only the evaluation by TEWL showed correlation with the visual score. Our of six materials, 3-APPA had the most positive effect in both in vivo and in vitro studies and the correlation was r=0.8286 (p=0.042).

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.137-143
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• 1999

Ketoprofen together with various permeation enhancers was incorporated into a novel soft hydrogel which is semi-solid in a container and to form a thin film within a few minutes after applying on the skin. The effect of various enhancers on the skin permeation of ketoprofen from a soft hydrogel was investigated using in vitro and in vivo method. In vitro rat skin permeation of ketoprofen from soft hydrogel was conducted using modified Keshary-Chien diffusion cells. In vivo ketoprofen absorption was also investigated in rats, and the results were compared with that of commercial products. Anti-inflammatory activities were determined using carrageenan-induced paw edema method and adjuvant-induced arthritis method in rats. The anti-inflammatory activity of ketoprofen soft hydrogel formulation with that of commercial products were compared. In vitro as well as in vivo studies showed that $HPE-101^{\circledR}$ was the most effective skin permeation enhancer among those used in this study. Addition of an adhesive (polyisobutylene) in the soft hydrogel decreased skin permeation of ketoprofen. Paw edema and anti-arthritis tests showed that soft hydrogel containing $HPE-101^{\circledR}$ was more effective than the commercial products, which was consistent with the in vivo absorption experiment results.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Near Infrared Spectroscopy Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.3101-3101
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• 2001

Near Infrared spectroscopy (NIR) used on human skin measurement was explored in the past decade. Many publications in different journals and magazines discussed the feasibility of the NIR technique for cosmetic product property studies. Based upon the results of pioneers, we have pursued some work of the NIR instrument coupled with a probe module for skin measurement in vivo and vitro. In part I of this paper, the specific Near Infrared spectroscopy instrument stability, human subject conditions and other parameters, which could affect the measurements reproducibility are discussed. Second derivative NIR spectra and Principle Components Analysis (PCA) are utilised for data interpretation. In part II of this paper, the relationship of human skin moisture and ageing, the gender information and finally, the discovery of penetration depth of NIR incident light on skin are reported. A theoretical penetration depth calculation equation is proposed. In part III, the study results of a couple of commercial skin care products effect will be described. The skin lotions were applied on human skin (in vivo) in order to exam the NIR feasibility to monitor the changes of moisture level. The results are consistently positive. From our primary study, it can conclude that the NIR is potentially a very powerful instrument for skin condition diagnostics, either for cosmetic and/or for medication purposes.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.87-107
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• 2003

It was demonstrated that Transactivating transcriptional activator(TAT) protein from HIV-1 shown to enter cells when added to the surrounding media. TAT peptide chemically attached to various proteins was able to deliver these proteins to various cell and even in tissues in mice with high levels in heart and spleen. In this study, the tripeptide GKH(Glycine-Lysine-Histidine) derived from Parathyroid hormone (PTH), which was known as lipolytic peptide, is attached to 9-poly Lysine(TAT) to be used as a cosmetic ingredient for slimming products. When Glycerol release, expressed as extracellular glycerol concentration, is lipolysis index, TAT-GKH at $10^{-5}$mo1/L induces approximately 41.5% maximal lipolytic effects in epididymal adipocytes isolated from rats, compared with basal lipolysis. Epididymal adipose tissues of male rats is assessed ex vivo by microdialysis. Probes are perfused with Ringer solution in which increasing concentrations of TAT-GKH. The perfusion of TAT-GKH induces lipolytic effect. Penetration study showed that TAT-GKH efficiently elevates 36 times higher penetration into the excised hairless mice skin than GKH. in vivo study showed that TAT-GKH had a better effect upon the relative volume of eye bag after 28 days of application on twenty(+2) healthy female volunteers. It was identified that TAT-GKH increases penetration enhancement and lipolytic effects in both in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.407-416
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• 2003

In this study, we evaluate the correlation between in vitro and in vivo determination of SPF of sunscreen products containing various ingredients depending on emulsification system. For in vitro approach, we determined SPF by the method of Diffey and Robson using an TransporeTM tape(3M Health care, USA) and SPF 290-analyzer(Optometrics Co. USA). SPF values and standard deviations are calculated and displayed after completion of the run. In vivo SPF values are determined according to KFDA (the Korea Food and Drug Administration) method in panels of Fitzpatrick's skin type II or III. We investigated the difference in SPF data of sunscreen ingredient according to emulsification system. The in vivo SPF data is high in water-in oil(W/O) emulsion than in oil-in water(O/W) emulsion samples. The difference may be due to the particular behavior in each vehicles and its presence on skin surface may produce a different sunscreen film. We obtained the corrlation coefficient between in vitro and in vivo SPF data for O/W (R-squre=0.72 )and W/O emulsion(R-squre=0.77). From these results, we suggest the improvement of methodology using Transpore$^{TM}$ tape as substrate to increase the predictability of in vitro method.d.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.434-440
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• 2017

S-methyl-$\small{L}$-methionine (SMM), also known as vitamin U, is commercially available as skin care cosmetic products for its wound healing and photoprotective effects. However, the low skin permeation expected of SMM due to its hydrophilic nature with a log P value of -3.3, has not been thoroughly addressed. The purpose of this study thus was to evaluate the effect of skin permeation enhancers on the skin permeation/deposition of SMM. Among the enhancers tested for the in vitro skin permeation and deposition of SMM, oleic acid showed the most significant enhancing effect. Moreover, the combination of oleic acid and ethanol further enhanced in vitro permeation and deposition of SMM through hairless mouse skin. Furthermore, the combination of oleic acid and ethanol significantly increased the in vivo deposition of SMM in the epidermis/dermis for 12 hr, which was high enough to exert a therapeutic effect. Therefore, based on the in vitro and in vivo studies, the combination of oleic acid and ethanol was shown to be effective in improving the topical skin delivery of SMM, which may be applied in the cosmetic production process for SMM.

• Proceedings of the PSK Conference
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• 2003.10b
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• pp.155.3-156
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• 2003

Flavonoids from plant origin show anti-inflammatory activity in vitro and in vivo. In addition to inhibition of inflammation-associated enzymes such as cyclooxygenases and lipoxygenases, they have been found to regulate the expression of inflammation-associated proteins from in vitro experiments. In order to prove in vivo behavior and the potential for beneficial use against inflammatory skin disorders, the effect of wogonin (5,7-dihydroxy-8-methoxyflavone) on in vivo expression of several inflammation-associated genes was examined in the intact as well as in the inflamed mouse skin by reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction analysis. (omitted)

• Archives of Pharmacal Research
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.458-462
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• 2005

The water content of skin was determined using a FT near infrared (NIR) spectrometer. NIR diffuse reflectance spectra were collected from hairless mouse, in vitro, and from human inner arm, in vivo. It was found that the variation of NIR absorbance band 1450 nm from OH vibration of water and 1940 nm from the combination involving OH stretching and OH deformation, depending on the absolute water content of separated hairless mouse skin, in vitro, using the FT NIR spectrometer. Partial least squares regression (PLSR) was applied to develop a calibration model. The PLS model showed good correlation. For practical use of the evaluation of human skin moisture, the PLS model for human skin moisture was developed in vivo on the basis of the relative water content of stratum corneum from the conventional capacitance method. The PLS model predicted human skin moisture with a standard errors of prediction (SEP) of 3.98 at 1130-1830 nm range. These studies showed the possibility of a rapid and nondestructive skin moisture measurement using FT NIR spectrometer.

• Biomolecules & Therapeutics
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• v.3 no.3
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• pp.242-244
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• 1995

In vitro cell culture system has been proposed as a promising alternative model to in vivo skin irritation test. These studies were performed to screen the cytotoxicity effects of surfactants using normal human skin fibroblasts. Cell membrane integrity assessed by the leakage of lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) and mitochondrial integrity by MTT [3-(4, 5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2, 5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromides reduction test were affected in a dose dependent manner. The irritation potential of surfactants to human skin patch test, and the changes of capillary permeability by rabbit intradermal safety test were assessed as in vivo methods. Our results suggest that LDH leakage assay and MTT reduction test using cultured human fibroblasts could be predictive for the irritancy of various surfactants in human, and LDH assay is superior correlated with in vivo test (r=0.886) to MTT test with in vivotest (r=0.757).