• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.755-765
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• 2006

This study is on the esthetic characteristics in the haute couture work of Chanel. It first reviews the lives and the fashion philosophy of Chanel, a senior designer and Lagerfeld as representatives of the maison, from the haute couture collection since 2000. The results of the study are the following. First, reinterpreting the tradition, Chanel reproduced historical dress items or silhouette with modern sense, or she created a new modern Chanel image through her original restructuring and dismantling. Second, Chanel expressed balanced beauty of compounded eclecticism by accord between simplicity and ornamentation, which meant her design showed impartial beauty with simple silhouette, decoration with colors, accessories, and ornaments. Third, Chanel did not divide the value between men and women, and instead expressed androgyny through dismantling each gender's characteristics by borrowing or mixing. As a result, she emphasized the female image or created a new style through expressing symbolic image embracing masculinity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.32
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• pp.90-96
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• 2002

Laying stress on the upper classes of Western Europe until from the seventeenth to the eighteenth century, the chinese mode in the fields of architecture, interior design and fashion was widely liked. It is called as ‘chinoiserie’into the French language. The chinese design with its quantity and ornamentation exerted an influence upon‘Rococo’in France and upon ‘Chippendale’ in England. The chinese mode that was made best use of the furniture design is the one of Ming dynasty. This was developed in relation to the interior design of ‘Siheyuan’ that is the architectural mode in those days. The furnitures at the times of Ming dynasty was raised to the position of the golden era in the history of chinese furnitures. The furniture has the technique laying stress on symmetrical proportion, simplicity. This technique showed as the formative modeling. also on the part of decoration ornamental designs showing the china ideology of Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism it was used. In this formative modeling the ideological background of those days forms the groundwork. The combination of reason and sentiment and of heart and mind emphasizes that our emotion should be in control by the ration and our emotion and ration should be harmonized.

• Korean Journal of Plant Taxonomy
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• v.39 no.2
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• pp.63-73
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• 2009

$Iso{\ddot{e}}tes$ L. ($Iso{\ddot{e}}taceae$) is difficult to identify among the infrageneric taxa because of morphological simplicity. Since two species (I. japonica and I. coreana) had been reported, I. jejuensis and I. hallasanensis were described as two new species from Jeju Island, South Korea. The habitats of all species were confirmed by current studies except for I. japonica. We compared the morphological and anatomical characters of seven species, three domestic species and four species in adjacent regions (I. taiwanensis, I. sinensis, I. japonica, and I. asiatica). I. asiatica differs from other species in the lobe number of corm, spreading sporophylls, lack of stomata and degree of velum development. All of the seven species were identified by the characteristics of their mega- and microspores. Especially, it was possible to identify the four species in South Korea by the types of ornamentation on their megaspores. Each species has a specific type of megaspore ornamentation: I. coreana - cristate, I. jejuensis - rugulate, I. hallasanensis - echinate, and I. japonica - reticulate. We also discussed the phylogeny of the genus in East Asia in relation to recent studies based on the second intron of LEAFY sequence and amplified fragment length polymorphism (AFLP) analysis. We suggest strategies for the conservation of the endangered $Iso{\ddot{e}}tes$ species in South Korea.