• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.82-95
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• 2009

The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.65-73
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• 1999

이태리는 이미 오래 전부터 귀금속에 대한 관심이 높아서 귀금속 장신구가 활성화되어 있었으며 오랜 역사와 문화를 바탕으로 한 그들의 뛰어난 예술적 감각과 귀금속 세공기술 등의 전통이 끊이지 않고 계승되어 현재의 첨단 과학기술과 조화를 이루어 더욱 발전을 하고 있다. 전 세계 귀금속 장신구의 5개 중 1개는 이태리 제품이 차지하고 있을 정도로 이태리는 어느 나라보다도 많은 금, 은, 보석장신구 등을 생산하며 연간 70억 달러 이상의 매출을 올리고 있다. 이러한 성장의 이면에는 여러 가지 요인들이 복합적으로 작용한 결과로, 단절되지 않고 대대로 내져오는 그들의 장인정신을 바탕으로 한 예술적인 수공예 위주의 일품적인 장신구와 세련되고 감각적인 디자인이 조화를 이룬 대량 생산적인 장신구를 함께 병행 발전시킨 결과이다. 최근에 들어서, 이태리 귀금속 회사들은 향상된 경영기법과 마케팅에 대한 국제적인 접근방법 등을 적극적으로 도입하고 있으며 디자이너들과 상호 밀접한 관계를 이루면서 새로운 기술 및 디자인 개발에 노력하고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.135-151
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research the costume styles during the Silla(新羅), and Paekje dynasty[百濟] in 'Seodong tale'. In those days, costume form, color, pattern, and ornaments played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The Methodology of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in 'Seodong tale' through the antique records and tombs bequests and expressing the clothing of the appearance people in the picture. This study is about the costume styles representing the differences in social status during the Silla and Baekje dynasty in 'Seodong tale'. Sedong wore 'Heug Geon(黑巾)' and 'Yu', 'Ko(袴)'. The king of Silla, Jinpyung wore Tree and Antler-typed Diadem and 'Po(袍)' with 'GwaDae(銙帶)' and Earrings, Necklaces, Rings. The servant of Baekje wore 'Eunmhwakwansik[silver crown]' and 'Jangyu' bound the silver belt and 'Ko'. Silla Princess of the court, Seonhwa wore Feathered Trim with Conical hat, and 'Yu' bound the belt and 'SangdongChima' and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Rings. Sedong's mother's hair style was 'Eonjeunmeori' and wore 'Yu' and 'Ko'. The queen of Baeje, Seonhwa wore 'Keumhwasik[Gold crown]', and 'Po' bound the belt and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2007

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2007

This study is a review of Ipsik, the decorative ornaments found on traditional Korean horsehair hats, known as Ipja, which were worn by men in the late Joseon Dynasty. In a broad sense, Ipsik are regarded as men's accessories. Therefore, although this study is limited to Ipja, it is significant in the sense that it delves into one facet of men's accessories in detail. Because the appearance of the horsehair hats was rather mundane, Ipsik and Ibyeong were added as ornaments. During the Joseon period, various types of hat ornaments existed, named Maeksu, Hosu, Gongjagu, Sangmo, Jingdori, Ijeon, Guyeongja and Ibyeong. A person's social ranking and class could be discerned by the materials used in the Ipsik he wore. Jeongja, a decorative accessory used to attach to an official's hat, was institutionalized in the sixteenth year of King Gongmin's reign(1367), during the Goryeo Dynasty, prior to the founding of China's Ming Dynasty in 1368, which indicates that Jeongja were influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. A record in Lao Chi'ta (a textbook of spoken Chinese estimated circa 1346) confirms this fact. Based on a review of literature, we learn that just as with Ongno, Jeongja were imported for use on Jeonrip, a soldier's hat. During the Ching Dynasty, Jeongja were further subdivided and more exquisitely designed. On the other hand, in the Joseon Dynasty, a rule was handed down mandating that a royal prince use gold for his jeongja, officials at third rank or above use silver, and governors, commanders in chief, and officials with the Office of Inspector General and Office of Censor General use jade. Inspectors were permitted to use crystal. Jeongja made of jade were used until the late Joseon Dynasty.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.129-139
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• 2000

The Chonmachong (Tumulus No. 155 in Whangnam-dong, Kyungju, Korea), which was unearthed in 1973, is an ancient tomb built in the Shilla Era between the 5th∼6th centuries by the method of Juk-suk-mok-gwak. With the excavation of this tomb more than 11,500 articles of luxurious and splendid relics including gold and silver ornaments, weaponry and horse gears were obtained. Among the excavated articles, the saddle flap with a drawing of flying horse on it is the first relic of its kind from the Shilla Era. and 'Chonma'(a flying horse), the name of the tomb. was named after this drawing. The saddle flap is highly valuable in that it provides the idea of how goad the people of Shilla were at drawing. Although a lot of researches have been released about the relics from the Chonmachong, this study is to focus on the fabrics from the excavation, all of which are in the Kyongiu Museum's collection. The findings of this study are as follows : 1 The subject of this study is mainly on the fabrics used in horse gears, the pieces of cloth that were used to spread on a saddle or to underlay beneath a saddle. As the Shilla Dynasty tried to restrict excessive ornamentation on horses and it is assumed that the fabrics used are different. according to the social status. 2. The subject articles are four plain fabrics, three fabrics of combined -construction and one braid, the warp-faced compound woven silks of combined-construction was found for the first tinge in Korea, and is the typical quality sick with patterns woven with dyed threads in different colors. 3. It is ascertained by the Chonmachong excavation that polychrome woven silk was used not only for the clothes of the upper classes but also for the ornaments of their horses in the Era of the Three Kingdoms.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제16권
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• pp.56-81
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• 2015

족자 고리는 끈이나 유소를 고정시켜 걸 수 있도록 하는 장황 부속품으로 형태가 다양하며 여러 금속재를 사용하여 제작되었다. 현재 전통 형식의 고리는 대부분 개장으로 인해 유실되었으며, 일본식 고리를 사용하고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 국립중앙박물관에 소장된 전통 족자 19점을 대상으로 고리의 형태와 제작기법, 성분을 조사하여 옛 형태를 복원해 보고자 하였다. 의궤 내용에서 고리는 원환(圓環), 국화동(菊花童), 배목(排目) 등 고유의 명칭으로 기록되어 있다. 휴대용 엑스선 형광분석기(portable X-ray fluorescence, Artax, Rontec)로 성분을 분석한 결과, 전통 형식의 고리는 황동, 철, 은-구리합금 등 다양한 금속재로 확인되었다. 구리와 아연이 주성분인 황동은 17점 족자 고리에 사용되었다. 전 윤시달 초상(신2339)의 배목에서는 철을 사용하였으며, 주석-납 합금으로 도금하였다. 이서구 초상(신1065)에서는 고리 전체가 은-구리합금으로 제작되었음을 확인하였다. 광학현미경(Leica, M205A)으로 제작 방법을 조사한 결과 원환은 금속봉을 절단한 뒤 둥글게 휘어 만든 유형과 주조로 제작된 유형으로 확인되었다. 배목은 주조한 합금으로 봉재나 판재를 만들고 다시 단조과정을 거쳐 제작하였고, 배목장식은 금속판재를 잘라 형태를 만든 후 축조와 타출기법 등으로 무늬를 새겨 장식하였다.