• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.16-22
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• 2006

Process contract has received considerable attention in silk degumming processes because of its critical role in quality assurance. In degumming, process exhibits shrinkage of high twisted yarn and lot-varying behavior, thus increasing the difficulties of reduction by conventional means. This necessitates the application of a package that adapts to changing degumming process, and a new approach involving package degumming is proposed. The gains of this process are prevent of shrinkage by package winding, which is simplified by reduced soft-winding or re-twisting process. The approach is expected to achieve high quality results in conventional process due to its feature of demage by tension and rubbing. Therefore package degumming has many merits such as reduce of pilling and shrinkage, production expenses saving by process contract are expected of the simplified degumming process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.1 s.29
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• pp.79-87
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• 1989

In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.132-137
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• 2016

Although silk textile shows excellent performance when used in clothing over a long period, its limited elongation and elasticity have restricted its extension to other textile and non-textile applications. In the present study, silk textile was produced using silk/polyurethane core-spun yarn and degummed to enhance its elongation and elasticity. The effects of degumming on the structure and mechanical properties of the silk textile were examined. Scanning electron microscopy observation revealed that the silk filaments became finer and more flexible with degumming, resulting in increased tangling of weft yarns and a highly shrunk textile structure in the weft direction. Although the strength of the degummed silk textile was decreased, its elongation greatly increased by 383% (a 16-fold increase) because of the degumming treatment. In particular, the elasticity of the silk textile was greatly improved. The silk textile exhibited ~30% reduction in the elongation after the second extension; however, the elongation almost did not change after 18 additional extension-recovery tests.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.58-61
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• 1994

This study was carried out to investigate the physical characteristics of stocking knitted with silk/nylon(S/N) compound yarn. In SEM observation, it was found that most part of S/N stocking was well interlaced between silk and nylon yarn. There was no difference between S/N stocking and nylon stocking in shrinkage at warm water and compressive resilience. The suction height and absorbability of S/N stocking was 4~8 times and 3 times higher than that of nylon stocking, respectively. According to the wearing test survey, most of wearers answered that the warmth, the hand and the feeling cool of S/N stocking were better than those of nylon stocking but reversed in elasticity, and they gave sprit opinion on durability responding good impression in total feeling of S/N stocking.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.191-213
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• 2023

Romans in the fifth and sixth centuries BC referred to the people who brought silk from the Far East via the pre-Han (漢) silk road as "Seres". The Seres' colorful silk was characterized by intricate patterns and high yarn density, markedly different than thin "China silk". This study examined geographic and genealogic records and linguistic evidence and found support for the syllogistic conclusion that the "Seres" were the early Silla people. The Seres' territory in the seventh century BC was much larger than that of the Qin (秦) or Zhou (周), extending from Xinjiang to Balhae. According to literature records, Dong-Yi (東夷) invented Geum (錦) silk in the 11th century BC around Balhae, where silkworm trees were abundant. In the Han dynasty, even thin silk was rare and expensive, but in Gojoseon (古朝鮮), Geum silk was common and less valuable than beads. The Silla delivered surplus Geum silk, fur, and high-quality iron to the West. Linguistic evidence includes historical names for Silla: "Sira," "Saro," and "Sere," as well as records naming King Ruri of Silla "Seri-Ji"; and the replacement of the word "Seres" by the word "Silk" from the Goguryeo word for "yarn winder": "sil-kkury".

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.47 no.1
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• pp.41-47
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• 2005

Kayagum is a traditional musical instrument in Korea. Kayagum strings are usually made of raw silk. It needs good vibration and durability. This study was carried out to increase durability of the strings by chemical treatment and manufacture of silk/polyester and silk/wild silk compound yarn. In this study, we used MKW-810(water solube acrylic adhesive)and polyvinyl alcohol as a adhesive. Before the twisting, the raw silk wet on the string manufacture process. The adhesive reagent were added in this process. And compound yarn were prepated by domestic silk, polyester and wild silk(antheraea pernyi) for make of Kayagum strings, respectively. The result are as follows. 1. Tenacity and elongation of the strings are almost same between none and chemical treatment. However number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings was largely increased by chemical treatment. Number of extension cycling to breaks of the strings is very important and useful item to check durability of the strings. The stiffness of the strings were almost same between none and adhesive treatment 2. Tenacity of the silk/polyester strings is largely decreased by increasing of polyester portion, but elongation of the silk/polyester strings increased. However tenacity of the silk/polyester(mono filament) strings are higher than that of silk strings. 3. Tenacity of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is largely decreased by increasing of wild silk portion, but elongation of the domestic silk/wild silk strings is almost same among silk and domestic silk/wild silk strings.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.191-196
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• 1995

The aim of the present work is to investigate the level of faults present in tussah silk yarn as detected on an Uster instrument for four different varieties of commercially available tussah(tasar) silk yarns. The structure of these faults were analysed further so as to understand the mechanism and source of their generation.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.66-71
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• 1986

The studies were carried out to screen the optimum conditions for enzymatic degumming of raw silk yarn and silk fabric by use of Alkalase, a protease produced by Bacteria, comparing with Papain and Trypsin representing natural proteolytic enzymes. 1. The optimum temperature and acidity of degumming solution were 70$^{\circ}C$, pH 5-6 for Papain degumming, 40$^{\circ}C$, pH 8 for Trypsin and 50-60$^{\circ}C$ pH 8-9 for Alkalase. 2. By increasing the Alkalase concentration in the range of 0.6 to 1.0 gram per liter, the time for enzymatic degumming of silk yarn could be reduced by 40 minutes. 3. In degumming of silk yarn by Alkalase, the pretreatment of 95$^{\circ}C$, 10 minutes at 0.1% sodium bicarbonate solution or posttreatent of 80$^{\circ}C$, 20 minutes at 2% (o.w.f.) sodium silicate solution improved the efficiency of enzymatic degumming, as compared to that of nontreatment. 4. The breaking strength, elongation and Lousiness results of enzymatically degummed silk yarn were apt to be improved more than those of soap-degummed one. 5. When the pretreatment of alkaline solution was done with over 20% of degumming ratio, the enzymatic degumming efficiency of both Havutae and Crepe de chine could be reached to the same level with those of soap-soda degummed. 6. As the pretreated silk fabric with 20% of degumming ratio was under action of three proteases, respectively, the deumming efficiency of Havutae and Crepe de chine were completed by Alkalase more than by Papain or Trpysin. 7. The stiffness of enzymatically degummed Crepe de chine was not only reduced by 17% more than that of soap-soda degummed one but also the Drape coefficient was decreased in enzymatically degummed fabrics, which was closely related with the soft touch of degummed fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.561-570
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• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.6
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• pp.1-11
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• 2002

The attractiveness of the textile fabrics are generally judged by visual or tactile evaluation methods. Since the surface of the textile materials are so diverse that the visual factors such as optical properties or luster of the fabrics are not easily measurable. While most of the cotton fabrics are not so much lustrous, calendering process could impart the cotton fabric better luster. Also, the general grade silk-like polyester fabrics resemble silk fabric with some limit in terms of luster properties. One of the interesting fabrics showing subdued luster is the velvet fabrics with dark shade. In this study, the luster related properties are examined using some image analysis methods. Yarn models based on the fabric weave types were developed to further investigate the effect of fabric crimp shapes due to weave on the optical properties or luster of the fabrics.