• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.14-19
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• 1990

The setting behavior of disulfide-enriched wool and disulfide-crosslinked silk obtained by treatment with a disulfide-containing crosslinking agent, bis $(\beta-isocyanatoethyl)$ dissulfide was compared with that of untreated wool and silk under the absence and the presence of a reducing agent. Rearrangment of secondary bonds facilitated by cleavage of crosslinks as well as rearrangement of crosslinks itself seems to play an important role in the set stability.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.304-310
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• 2012

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Scutellaria baicalensis extract were 90% v/v, $90^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Scutellaria baicalensis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2003

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Purple-Fleshed Sweet Potato (PSP) was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and the color difference (${\Delta}E^*$) was increased with increasing the amount of PSP in extraction. The proper temperature and time for the extracting of colorant with PSP were $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes. The optimum temperature, time and pH for the dyeing of silk with extracted PSP were $60^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 4 respectively. In various mordanted methods, the color difference values of post-mordanted silk fabric were higher than those of pre- and simultaneous-mordanted method. And the wide range of colors( GY, Y, YR, R, RP) were obtained according to various mordants, mordanting methods and mordant concentrations. Light colorfastness of the mordanted silk fabric was improved. Laundering colorfastness, dry cleaning colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were shown to be good.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-72
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• 2009

To investigate the strong and effective sericin fixing agents and conditions, raw silk fibers were treated with the mixtures of urea-formalin, thiourea-formalin and melamine-formalin as sericin fixing agents, respectively. And the treated raw silk fibers were degummed by the degumming liquors of alkaline detergent and sodium carbonate to confirm the hardness of sericin fixation. The weight of raw silk fibers was decreased in the process of sericin fixation treating at 80$^{\circ}C$ for 60min. The effective sericin fixation was obtained by treating at $60{\sim}80^{\circ}C$ for 15min with the mixture of melamine and formalin. The mixture of melamine and formalin showed an outstanding ability of sericin fixation because the three amino groups of melamine were able to cross-link the hydroxy amino acids of sericin such as serine with the assistance of formalin.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.10-18
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• 1997

In order to study the properties of safflower yellow colors, thermodynamic parameters and dyeing properties on the silk in several dyeing conditions were investigated. The uv-visible spectra of safflower yellow colors in several solvents show hypsochromic shift with the polarity of solvent but bathochromic shift with increasing acidity of solution. The apparent diffusion coefficients and standard affinities of dyeing increased with the increase of dyeing temperature. The standard heat of dyeing(${\Delta}H^0$), entropy change(${\Delta}S^0$) and activation energy($E_{act}$) were calculated to be - 1.144kcal/mol, -7.498(5$0^{\circ}C$)~-3.804(9$0^{\circ}C$)cal/molㆍdeg and 0.123kcal/mol, respectively. The concentration of safflower yellow colors in the silk fiber increased with dyeing temperature, time, concentration of colors and acidity of initial dyebath. Silk fabrics were dyed bright yellow by pre-mordanting with tin chloride. Lightfastness of silk fabrics pre-mordanted by tin chloride was not excellent.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.432-437
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract were 90% v/v, $90^{\circ}C$, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness of mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Cu mordant was showed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.74-76
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• 2007

Antheraea yamamai silk fibroin powder was prepared by treatment with HCl. Amino acid contents of the prepared Antheraea yamamai fibroin hydrolysates were composed of Gly, Ala, Glu, and so on. Biological activities of Antheraea yamamai silk fiborin powder were examined. It is showed about 75% of antioxidation activity compared to the reference ascorbic acid. And it lowered blood glucose level down from 550 mg/dl to 300 mg/dl by serving with wild silk protein.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.680-688
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• 2005

This study was carried out to investigate on the removal of oily and particulate soils from silk fabrics. Various kinds of solvents were used on the removal of two kinds of soils treated into the silk fabrics. The removal of oily soil was analyzed by liquid scintillation counting method, and the removal of oil and carbon particulate mixed soils was evaluated by measuring of reflectance on the surface of soiled fabrics with/without drysoap in solvent washing by Terg-o-tometer. The surfaces of fabrics were also observed by SEM before and after washing. The results obtained were as follows : oily soils were removed efficiently by various kinds of solvents regardless of kinds of silk fabrics in short washing time. The removal effect of solvents from the soiled silk fabrics were high in the order of isopropyl alcohol>trichloroethane>monochlorobenzene>ethylether>perchloroethylene. Oil and carbon particulate mixed soils could be efficiently removed by adding of drysoap in solvent washing. The removal of mixed soils were increased drastically with rinsing and increased drysoap. The removal of soils was more efficiently removed from degummed silk fabrics than from the raw silk fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.8
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• pp.113-128
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• 2004

This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.