• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.72-76
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• 1994

The permselectivity of alkali metal chlorides through silk fibroin membrane was investigated at $25^{\circ}C$: The Permeability coefficients were found to increase in a sequence of LiCl < NaCl < KCl < CsCl. This sequence was explained by considering the partition and the hydrophilic membrane. The dependence of the permeability on the salts concentration was interpreted by means of TMS theory. The ionic mobility ratio of alkali metal chlorides through this membrane decreased with the increase of the Stokes radius. The Effectiveness of the charged density was found to depend on the ionic species. The greater the Stokes radius the larger the effective charge density of membrane.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.347-357
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• 2002

In 1536, two Piedmontese merchants set up workshops in Lyons, and Henri IV encourged further development later in the 16th century. The development of Lyons as a centre of the silk weaving industry was helped by the perfection of drawloom weaving technique there in 1605 by Claude Dangon. In the 17th century, the French silk industry could finally compete with the dominance of the Italian silk trade. The French silk industry was promoted in the mid-17th century under Louis XIV's minister Colbert. In 1667, he published an ordinance creating La Grande Fabrique, a corporation for craftsmen within the silk industry, and Lyons became the undisputed French silk capital. Under Louis X IV, France was becoming the dominant force in Europe in matters of fashion and style. The major innovation of weaving was the Jacquard head attachment, which provided a mechanical means of raising warp threads by a series of punched cards. The are nouveau style did not have much impact on French silk design at the end of the century. Silk manufacturers began to collaborate with haute-couture designers such as the House of Worth. This collaboration with the burgeoning Paris haute-couture industry continued into the 20th century and safeguarded the future production of silk textiles in France.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.138-143
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• 1996

Cooking of tasar silk cocoon of Deba variety (A. mylitta D.) with tartaric acid has been optimized by using an orthogonal central composite design. Shell weight loss and silk filament recovery are influenced by duration of treatment and acid concentration. Mechanical properties do not change with the process parameters. Hardness of water does not affect significantly the recovery of silk filament.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.37-42
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• 2006

Researches to preserve and restore the remaining fabrics as costume heritages have been carried out. In this study, in order to artificially restore an excavated silk fabrics, degummed silk fabrics and safflower dyed silk fabrics were prepared for an experiment. These fabrics were photo-degraded by the Xenon arc beam to have various strength retention(100%, 80%, 60%, 40%, 20%). The fine structure and physical properties of Xenon arc treated fabrics were investigated with various techniques such as tensile test, weight loss, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, yellowness, color, SEM etc. Tensile strength and the crystal diffraction intensity of silk fabrics decreased as Xenon arc hem treatment time increased. Weight loss increased slightly. Strength retention was decreased as the Xenon arc beam treatment time goes by. (Yellowness of the undyed silk fabrics and $L^*$ of the dyed silk fabrics increased. Whiteness of the undyed silk fabrics and $b^* of the dyed silk fabrics decreased.) SEM results of the silk fabrics treated Xenon arc beam show that surface was a little damaged.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.31-36
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• 2007

There are several factors in the degradation of textiles. The crucial factors in textile weakening are humidity, dust, smoke, sunlight, microorganisms and so on. Especially silk fabrics are more susceptible to microorganisms than other fabrics, because they are mainly consisted of proteins. In this study, we investigated the activities for degrading casein and silk fibers with 2 strains, Bacillus cereus TX1 and Pseudomonas fluorescens TX 2, isolated from domestic museums. They were compared to those of standard control strains, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus, usually used for the antibiotic test of fabrics. The caseinolytic activities of K. pneumoniae and S. aureus were higher than those of isolated strains. But in the cases of silk fiber degrading, B. cereus TX 1 showed the highest activity on both silk 1 and silk 2. Therefore, caseinolytic activities were not coincident with the activity to degrade silk fibers. All strains degraded silk 1(strength retention 100%) better than silk 2(strength retention 50%). It means that bacteria mainly participate in the early stage of degrading silk fabrics, but as time goes by, the importance of bacteria for degrading silk fabrics would decreased. Even though the importance of bacteria may decrease, controlling bacterial activity is necessary to preserve historic silk fabrics.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.198-202
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• 2002

Degummed silk from Bombyx mori was dissolved in 9.3M lithium bromide solution. The regenerated silk fibroin films were completely ${\alpha}$-randomcoil type as shown by x-ray diffraction and infrared spectroscopy. The structural changes in silk fibroin induced by immersion into methanol and dilute hydrochloric acid and its photo-yellowing effect was studied. The changes of crystallinity were measured by infrared spectrometer. Yellowness index caused by ultraviolet irradiation were observed as a function of the structural change on silk fibroin. On treatment with methanol, ${\alpha}$-randomcoil silk film is converted to the ${\beta}$-form structure. After the treatment of hydrochloric acid on ${\beta}$-form structure in silk induced by immersion into methanol, ${\beta}$-form in silk fibroin is partially decreased. Crystallization owing to ${\beta}$-form transition reduced the initial yellowness index by ultraviolet irradiation. A little ${\beta}$-form structure in silk fibroin increased the initial yellowness in comparison with more ${\beta}$-form structure.

• International Journal of Industrial Entomology and Biomaterials
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.19-24
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• 2014

Silk has always been one of the most favored textile materials. Fully degummed silk fiber (i.e., silk fibers without sericin) shows better luster than raw silk fiber (with sericin); it is also softer. On the other hand, raw silk fiber feels cooler because of the presence of sericin, making it useful as a textile for the summer season. Recently, partially degummed silk has attracted researchers' attention because it provides better luster, feel, and dyeing properties. However, the partial degumming of silk is very difficult because it results in inhomogeneously degummed fiber. In the present study, silk yarns were degummed with surfactant aqueous solutions and the effects of each surfactant on the degumming ratio, crystallinity, and homogeneity of the degummed silk yarn were examined. The degumming ratio and crystallinity index of silk yarn varied depending on the type of surfactant. On the whole, anionic surfactants resulted in higher degumming ratios and better homogeneity than nonionic surfactants.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.17-23
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• 2003

Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to characterize the intermolecular ester crosslinkages in cotton cellulose. The FT-IR data show that the band of the ester carbonyl group can be separated from overlapping carboxyl/carbonyl band by converting carboxyl group to carboxylate. When esterification occurs between a polycarboxylic acid and cotton cellulose, the carbonyl groups retained in the cotton exist in three forms; ester, carboxyl, and carboxylate anion. The FT-IR data were also correlated to the durable press rating result obtained. The appearance of BTCA-finished durable press silk/cotton fabrics were improved.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.557-566
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• 2022

This study aims to investigate Jinju silk companies, production items, and silk industry supporting projects from 2019 to 2021 in order to discuss the current status of the silk industry. The following are this study's methods: First, a list of Jinju silk companies that have been operating for the past three years (2019-2021) was prepared to investigate the current status of the Jinju silk industry. Second, an investigation was conducted into the representative products produced in Jinju over the past three years; this investigation was conducted using direct interview. Third, an investigation was conducted on the projects that supported the Jinju silk industry over the past three years, and the list of members of the Gyeongnam Textile and Jinju Silk Industry Cooperative Association-a facility of Gyeongsangnam-do Province, the Jinju City Hall brochure (2019), and the SMINFO(SMall business status INFOrmation System) were utilized for this purpose. The following are the results: First, Jinju silk companies are classified into four categories, namely weaving, dyeing, twisting, and designing companies. According to data from 2021, 83% (34 of 41) of silk companies were weavers. Second, the demand for solid fabrics has increased over the past three years. The demand for patterned jacquard fabrics in producing Hanbok and Western-style clothing has decreased. Third, support for the Jinju silk industry could be classified into five categories: support for the operation of silk research institutions, support for the diversification of Jinju silk, support for the promotion of Jinju silk, support for the operation of silk manufacturers, and others.