• Title/Summary/Keyword: silk gauze

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Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Papyeung-Yun's Tomb (파평윤씨 묘 출토직물의 제직특성 연구)

  • Cho Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.32-43
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    • 2006
  • Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from Kim Yeoon's Tomb(1596-1665) (김여온(1596-1665)묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.44 no.1 s.215
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    • pp.139-150
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    • 2006
  • Eighty-four fabrics, all weaved from silk, were excavated from Kim Yeoon's tomb. They comprised 51 pieces of silk tabby, 13 of satin damask, 17 of twill, and 2 of complex gauze, 1 of damask on tabby. The fabrics featured high quality of satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 3-end complex gauze. The names of the fabrics used in this article are based on literature sources and include silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby(紬), filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), and twill(綾).

Preparation of Multi Skin Care Gauze by Blending of Silk Fiber and Separated Cellulose from Waste Milk Pack (견사와 폐 우유팩으로부터 분리한 셀룰로오스가 함유된 복합 위생포 제작)

  • 여주홍;이광길;이용우;김종호
    • Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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    • v.42 no.2
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    • pp.109-113
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    • 2000
  • The preparation of skin care gauze could be make to mixing separated cellulose from waste milk pack and degummed silk fibroin fiber. Also, its wound covering and anti-bacterial activity were investigated in order to find out the enhancement of their functionality. By the 30% silk fibroin fiber including skin care gauze, the anti-bacterial activity values of Staphylococcus strain are much 4 times higher than of 0∼10% silk fibroin fiber including skin care gauze. The average yield of cellulose from waste milk pack was obtained 50-60%, and their morphologies, physical properties, modulus and biodegradation ratios are studies, respectively.

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Type and Characteristics of Gauze Fabric of Ancient Korea - Focused oil Gauze Fabrics Shown on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk - (한국 고대 羅직물의 유형과 특성 -흥덕왕 복식금계에 나타난 羅직물을 중심으로-)

  • 권영숙;신경철;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.1
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    • pp.21-32
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    • 2001
  • Gauze is very light and thin. Their warps are entangled and their structure is loose. It is natural that they are easier to decay than other silk fabrics through physiochemical processes over a long period of time. Nonetheless quite many remains of Gauze fabrics can be found in China or Japan as well as in Korea. Various Gauze was used in costumes since the era of the Three Kingdoms and their weaving techniques, such as using gold threads with silk-fabrics, was developed in Koryo dynasty era, which made it possible to create more magnificent gauze fabrics in Korea. Relatively a lot of Gauze fabrics are remained in Korea. Based on these corroborative relics, this thesis analyzes the characteristics of gauze fabrics possesed in Korea and categorizes the gauze fabrics described in the Decrees on Costume Restraint of the King Hungduk. This also compares them with the present gauze in other countries. The types of gauze fabrics are generally divided into desined gauze, and non-designed gauze, the one without pattern. There ar a lot of desined gauze, such as dyeing gauze, brocade gauze, embroidery with gauze ground, patterned gauze with gauze ground etc. which were found in Korea and also in China and Japan. Non-designed gauze is divided into 2-end complex gauze, 3-end complex gauze, 4-end complex gauze, etc depending on the number of crossing warps. All of the non-designed gauze of Koryo dynasty found in Korea was 4-end complex gauze fabrics. These non-designed gauze fabrics were also found in Japan and China.

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Characteristics of Jeogori Found in the Gwan-eum Bodhisattva Statue in Bogwang Temple of Goryeo Dynasty (보광사 고려시대 관음보살좌상(觀音菩薩坐像) 복장(腹藏) 저고리의 특성)

  • Park, Yoon-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.10
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    • pp.1-9
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    • 2009
  • One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.

A Study of The Fabrics for Enshrining Oblations inside a Buddhist Statue in MoonSoo Temple (문수사 복장직물에 관한 소고)

  • 권영숙;장현주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.51 no.6
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    • pp.101-115
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    • 2001
  • This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

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A Study of Textiles used for Po(overcoat) in the Excavated Costumes of the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 출토복식 중 포류에 사용된 직물유형 연구)

  • 조효숙;임경화;김지연
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.4
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    • pp.113-129
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    • 2003
  • This study examined textiles used for the ancient costumes that are excavated from tombs of the Chosun dynasty, focusing especially on Po(overcoat). The result of the study is that silk occupies 79.8% of all the textiles used for Po, and cotton and linen follow. The weaving method of silk was primarily plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo dynasty, are considerably decreased in Chosun dynasty. Danlyeong(단령) and Cheollik(첩리) had been made of various textile fabrics like cotton, linen, silk and blended fabric before Imjinwaeran(임진왜란). After the war, they were simplified in gauze weaved silk or satin weaved silk, And also patterned fabric were widely used for them than other Po. Simple fabrics like cotton, linen and plain weaved silk had been used for Aekjureum(액주름) and Jiklyeong(직령) before Imjinwaeran. After the war, Jiklyeong was used as underwears of Danlyeong, so it was made of high quality patterned silk. Dopo(도포) and Changuiryu(창의류) were mainly excavated from tombs after the war, high quality plain weaved silk are used than gorgeous Patterned silk. For the Dopho(답호) and Bansuui(반수의), before the war, they were made with various textiles such as plain weaved silk, twill weaved silk, satin weaved silk, cotton, linen, and blended fabric. But after the war plain weave was mainly used. In Jangui(장의), since it was mostly for women, many kinds of women's patterned silk were used in than any other Po. There were only a few excavation of Simui(심의) and most of them were made of ramie and were hemmed in black satin without pattern.

Characteristics of the Fabrics Excavated from the Tomb of Kimwhoak (김확 묘 출토직물 제직 특성 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.2
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    • pp.88-101
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    • 2011
  • This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

The Characteristics of Excavated Fabrics from the Couple's Tomb of Jinju Ryu (진주류씨(晉州柳氏) 합장 묘 출토직물에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Hyo-Sook;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.51-62
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    • 2007
  • This study explicates some properties of the fabrics used in the 16th century by examining and analyzing the 90 pieces of fabric excavated from the graves of Mr. Ryu of Jinju and his wife Mrs. Park of Euiin. The fabrics were classified into silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), mixture fabric with silk and cotton(絲棉交織), cotton(棉布) etc. Compared to other contemporary fabrics excavated previously, the fabrics unearthed from the couple's graves presented very naive feelings. Patterned satin damask occupied a small portion. In the case of plain fabric, little filament silk tabby(絹) or thin filament silk tabby(細紬) was unearthed. Important data on the history of Korean costumes are provided by the noteworthy, first-ever excavation of a small cap made of complex gauze(羅) and the tiger-leopard embroidered patches called hyoongbae(胸背), which were worn on the front and back of official robes made of tabby with supplementary gold thread(金線). Only 3 pattern types could be clearly identified in form, cloud pattern, lotus and vine pattern(蓮花蔓草), and small flower and treasures pattern(七寶細花). These three patterns are very similar to those of other 16th century fabrics unearthed previously in terms of the form and arrangement of patterns.

Study on Housed at Museum of Sun Am Temple (선암사 소장 <용문자수탁의(龍紋刺繡卓衣)> 연구)

  • Sim, Yeon-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.2
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    • pp.88-100
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    • 2017
  • This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.