• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.6 s.91
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• pp.1-9
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the dyeability, antibacterial activity on silk and rayon fabrics dyed with cochineal. The result are as follows; 1. The K/S value of silk fabric was higher than that of rayon fabric. 2. The optimum conditions are mordant concentration $0.5{\sim}1%$, dyeing material concentration 2.0%(o.w.f), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, PH 3 and dyeing time 30minutes. 3. Pre-mordanting method had higher dyeing absorption than post mordanting method in case of silk and rayon fabrics. 4. The antibacterial activity of dyed silk fabrics were higher than that of dyed rayon fabrics and the antibacterial activity was increased by mordanting. 5. The lightfastness and perspiration fastness of silk fabric were improved but these of rayon were not. Dyeing fastness was improved by Fe mordanting on both fabrics.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.16-23
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• 1999

This study was made to investigate the effects of mimosa tannin and tannic acid on change of properties and photodegradation of silk fabrics according to tannin concentration and irradiation time. The results were as follows. 1. As concentration of tannin increased, thickness, fabric count and stiffness showed no difference. But tensile strength were increased, and elongation were decreased. 2. When concentration of tannin is high, tannin adhered to surface of fabrics. 3. fR absorption bands of untreated silk fabric appeared at $3400cm^{-1},\; 1640cm^{-1},\;1445cm^{-1},\;1235cm^{-1},\;and\;675cm^{-1}$, but those of silk fabric treated with tannic acid appeared at $1710cm^{-1}\;and\;3400cm^{-1}$ by treatment of mimosa tannin, respectively. IR absorption bands of photoirradiated silk fabrics appeared at $3400cm^{-1},\;3280cm^{-1},\;2960cm^{-1},\;2920cm^{-1},\; 1720cm^{ -1},\;1380cm^{-1},\;1280cm^{-1},\;1120cm^{-1},\;and\;1070cm^{-1}$. But those bands were decreased at the silk fabrics treated with mimosa tannin and tannic acid.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.3_4
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• pp.473-484
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• 2002

The physical characteristics of silk and wool fabrics dyed with OFS-FR and SM-FR were examined and color difference and colorfastness of these fabrics were analyzed. The results are as follows; 1. The thickness, density and weight of both dyed fabrics were increased than those of undyed fabrics independently of dyeing materials and mordants. 2. Air permeability of all the silk samples increased than that of undyed silk, on the other hand, air permeability of most of wool samples decreased than that of undyed wool. 3. Thermal insulation values of silk samples were not consistent with dyeing conditions, but those of wool samples increased than those of undyed fabrics regardless of dyeing materials and mordants. 4. Color difference was clear between OFS-FR and SM-FR dyed fabrics. The colors dyed with OFS-FR-Al and OFS-FR-chitos an showed violet, those dyed with SM-FR displayed yellowish, in addition to in case of wool, dyed with OFS-FR-Cu the color was greenish yellow, in case of silk dyed with SM-FR-Cu that was yellowish red. 5. Sense of silk fabrics by sensory-test was soft and smooth. Feeling of colors in silk fabrics was wick, warm and slightly brilliant. In case wool, sense of dyed fabrics was slightly soft and slightly rough. Feeling of colors in wool fabrics was warm but not elegant. Therefore the result of sensory-test in silk might be better than that of in wool. 6. Colorfastness to dry cleaning and perspirations was good, but that to washing and sunlight was not fine.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.158-165
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing property and ultraviolet-cut ability on silk 100% and nylon 100% fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. This study was investigated K/S values, surface color, washing fastness, dry cleaning fastness and ultraviolet-cut ability of the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts under the various dyeing conditions. As mordanting were used Tin(II) Chloride dihydrate $(SnCl_2{\cdot}2H_2O)$, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate$(CuSO_5{\cdot}5H_2O)$, Iron(II)Chloride$(FeC_2{\cdot}4H_2O)$. pH was adjusted by sodium carbonate$(Na_2CO_3)$ and formic acid(HCOOH). The optimum dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH of the silk fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts were $90^{\circ}C$, 100min, and in the nylon fabrics were $90^{\circ}C$, 45min. It were colored(munsell value) 6.4Y 7.5/4.1 in the silk fabrics and colored 4.3Y 6.6/5.9 in the nylon fabrics dyed with Rhus verniciflua extracts. Washing fastness and dry-cleaning fastness in the silk and nylon fabrics dyed with mordanting agent improved in $4{\sim}5$ grade. UV-A test showed that nylon fabrics a high rate of 92% with Rhus verniciflua extracts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.617-628
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• 2001

Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with brazilein(Caesalpinia Sappan), berberine (Phellodendron Amurense), and shikonin(Lithospermum Erythrorhizon) were stored in the air, in the water, and under the ground for about one year. The change of the color, the flexibility, and the breaking strength were measured at the intervals of few weeks. The results are as follows; 1. The color of the fabrics changed most extensively in the fabrics that were under the ground, then in the order of the ones that were in the water, and in the air. The color of the fabrics changed to the achromatic color over the time. 2. The flexibility change among the dyes was similar. All the fabrics became stiff under the ground and in the water over the storage time. 3. In general, cotton and silk fabrics dyed with berberine showed better strength retention than the fabrics dyed with other substances. 4. The strength retention of cotton fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, in the water, and under the ground. Only minuscule change occurred in the strength of the cotton fabrics. The strength of the fabrics that were in the water and under the ground decreased remarkably after 30 weeks and 20 weeks respectively. 5. The strength retention of silk fabrics was high in the order of the fabrics which were in the air, under the ground, and in the water. In the air, the strength on silk fabrics decreased rapidly after 30 weeks. In the water, the strength of silk fabrics decreased more rapidly than that of the cotton fabrics. Under the ground, the strength retention of silk was higher than that of cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.40
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• pp.37-50
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• 1998

The goal of this suudy is to investigate the production and distribution of silk fabrics of the CHO-SUN Era. My conclusions culture was advanced as a result of its promotion by government authorities. It proceeded from south to north, and spread all over the country. The north became the center of the silkworm culture since cotton was cultivated in the south. Second, the production of silk fabrics proceeded by government orders at the beginning. But it proceeded by private enterprise at a later period. Since government-managed textile handicrafts began falling off during the 16th century, privately managed handicrafts were accomplished slowly. Third, at the same time as the introduction of natural cotton fabrics, the production of various fabrics in the CHO-SUN Era proceeded all over the country, and special production localities-formed. PYUNGAN-DO(평안도), HAMKYOUN-DO(함경도), HOANG HAE-DO(황해도), and KYUNG SANG-DO (경상도) were the main region of silk fabric production. Fourth, the silk fabrics were distributed through the capital markets and the province markets. And superior silk fabrics were distri-buted through the capital markets. And all sorts of low quality silks JU were distributed through the province market. Fifth, thus an abundance of superior silk fabrics was distributed in the CHO-SUN Era. But thequantity of production was not enough. And most of it was used in the Royal Court. The quantity of shortage was supplied by imports.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.150-157
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to investigate the proper dyeing condition, color fastness and functionality of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. FT-IR spectrum analysis suggests that colorants of Zizania latifolia Turcz. are tannins. The dyeing of the silk fabrics using Zizania latifolia Turcz. was very good even without pretreatment or mordanting treatment. Optimal dyeing conditions of silk fabrics were colorant concentration of 200%(o.w.f.), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 60 minutes and dyebath pH of 5.5. Color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light was 4~4-5, 5, 4~4-5(acidic), 4-5(alkaline) and 2 respectively. UV protection rate and deodorization rate of silk fabrics dyed with Zizania latifolia Turcz. were improved. Reduction rate(Staphyloccus aureus) of silk fabrics was excellent at 98.3%. As a result, it was confirmed that the Zizania latifolia Turcz. could be used as an eco-friendly functional natural dye.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.1 s.92
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• pp.31-36
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• 2007

There are several factors in the degradation of textiles. The crucial factors in textile weakening are humidity, dust, smoke, sunlight, microorganisms and so on. Especially silk fabrics are more susceptible to microorganisms than other fabrics, because they are mainly consisted of proteins. In this study, we investigated the activities for degrading casein and silk fibers with 2 strains, Bacillus cereus TX1 and Pseudomonas fluorescens TX 2, isolated from domestic museums. They were compared to those of standard control strains, Klebsiella pneumoniae and Staphylococcus aureus, usually used for the antibiotic test of fabrics. The caseinolytic activities of K. pneumoniae and S. aureus were higher than those of isolated strains. But in the cases of silk fiber degrading, B. cereus TX 1 showed the highest activity on both silk 1 and silk 2. Therefore, caseinolytic activities were not coincident with the activity to degrade silk fibers. All strains degraded silk 1(strength retention 100%) better than silk 2(strength retention 50%). It means that bacteria mainly participate in the early stage of degrading silk fabrics, but as time goes by, the importance of bacteria for degrading silk fabrics would decreased. Even though the importance of bacteria may decrease, controlling bacterial activity is necessary to preserve historic silk fabrics.